Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:29 AM - Re: Re: Anyone done Bob Nuckoll's CBA modifications? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 08:29 AM - Re: Re: Is this scheme valid to save weight, add flexibility and (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 01:53 PM - Re: D-Sub Pins (Henry Trzeciakowski)
4. 08:39 PM - Re: Anyone done Bob Nuckoll's CBA modifications? (CamLight)
5. 08:42 PM - Anything wrong with using a plier style crimper? (rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Anyone done Bob Nuckoll's CBA modifications? |
At 07:40 PM 12/26/2008, you wrote:
>
>
>nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote:
> >
> > Okay, I found it. I don't know why it was taken off the
> > website. It's still on the CDRom image of the website
> > as it existed some months ago. I've put the article back
> > up at:
> >
> > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/WestMountain_CBAII.pdf
> >
>
>I had tried to contact you via e-mail last month regarding my
>analysis. Some of my test results and recommendations differ from
>yours and I wanted to ask if you might be interested in discussing them?
Yes, I recall that. I must have been 'snowed' at the
time and the List comes first. We could discuss it here
on the List . . .
>Sigh...you're not the only one frustrated with WMR's policies! The
>requirement to assign the software to a particular CBA II is
>maddening. And within a day or two after its release, a couple of
>us over at the RC Group forums found several obvious bugs in their
>version 2 software.
>
>Our biggest frustrations now? They've had at least 6 releases of
>the beta and "final" version 2 software since 10/28 and none of them
>have listed the changes from the previous release. Arggghhh!
That's unfortunate. I know there are a lot of
folks out there with time, talent and resources
willing to help him refine the product. Push
comes to shove, we could do our own.
I've got PIC's with USB engines that I've integrated
into some proposed projects for TC aircraft. A
retired programmer from NCR/Symbios/LSI lives right
behind me (my father in law). He's been doing
some other projects for me and would be please
to have this one.
Our hammer-n-tongs version need not be pretty,
only utilitarian. I think I'd opt for a board
that could drive any practical number of power
FETS. The user could scale his/her version
to the desired task. The only variable in the
software would be to insert a shunt constant
for current interpretation.
The battery tester itself is stone simple.
The sexy part is the application that manages
it. John went out and bought VBasic.net a few
months ago but we've not had occasion to use
it yet.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Is this scheme valid to save weight, add |
flexibility and
At 07:23 PM 12/26/2008, you wrote:
>
>
>brianrobertwood(at)gmail. wrote:
> > Yep, you are right about that. Small wire=high-resistance=heat
> which leads
> > to smoke. How hot would a run of #4 get if it were shorted out (batt+ to
> > ground)? Would it smoke the insulation?
Wires are generally really hard to "smoke". This piece of
22AWG wire . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Wire/22AWG_20A.pdf
. . . had been running at 20 AMPS until the temperature
stabilized at 112C. Tefzel is good to 150C. So we're
not even pushing the wire all that hard YET. Of course
we "derate" wires for effects of bundling, hi temperature
environments, and voltage drop. But the point is that
a 22AWG wire we normally limit to a 5 amp circuit feeder
is much more robust with respect to fault tolerance than
the 5A de-rating suggests.
>I've run 300A through #4 synthetic rubber insulated welding cable
>(105 degrees-C rated) for several minutes without the insulation
>smoking or failing. It did get VERY hot though. :)
>
>A lot depends on the insulation. PVC is often rated at 85-degrees
>C. and will smoke a lot sooner than 400 degree-C rated fiberglass
>insulation. The "fusing current" level, at which the copper will
>melt and the wire acts like a fuse, is around 800A.
Which supports the 22 AWG experiment described above.
Folks worry a lot about "smoking" wires but simple
attention to fuses and circuit breakers for small
wires and careful attention to routing and support
for fat wires is all it takes to drive the probability
of smoke down to the very small numbers.
With respect to relative weights, my data books say
4AWG Tefzel (22759/16) is 157 pounds per 1000/ft
or .16 pounds per foot. A 4" chunk of 4AWG welding
cable I have laying around comes in at 24gm or 72gm
per foot which is still .16 pounds. So if you substitute
the style cable I have here (one layer synthetic rubber)
for the 22759/16, there is no weight penalty.
Other brands/styles of welding cable may not be 1:1
but they're not going to be far off. Bottom line is
that any weight differences to be exploited with
exotic combinations of other sizes and subsequent
splices has a poor if not zero return on investment
for $time$ expended.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 3
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Bob:
Looking thru your archives, I see that one can use D-Sub's are wiring
connections: I.E. - joining 2 wires together, rather than use butt splices,
solder seal, etc....
So my question is:
1- Rather than soldering my Mic & Phone jack wires directly to my jack
outlets, can I solder leads, then use D-Sub pins to join to the leads to the
amin wires?
2- Can I also use these D-Subs for splicing shielded wire: 22 awg wire?
I can see al lot of uses for these D-subs, amazing !!!
Henry
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Anyone done Bob Nuckoll's CBA modifications? |
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote:
>
> Yes, I recall that. I must have been 'snowed' at the
> time and the List comes first. We could discuss it here
> on the List . . .
No problem, I understand. :)
In another thread I'll post a link to the analysis and a couple of things I'd love
to discuss.
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote:
>
> That's unfortunate. I know there are a lot of
> folks out there with time, talent and resources
> willing to help him refine the product. Push
> comes to shove, we could do our own.
>
> I've got PIC's with USB engines that I've integrated
> into some proposed projects for TC aircraft. A
> retired programmer from NCR/Symbios/LSI lives right
> behind me (my father in law). He's been doing
> some other projects for me and would be please
> to have this one.
>
> Our hammer-n-tongs version need not be pretty,
> only utilitarian. I think I'd opt for a board
> that could drive any practical number of power
> FETS. The user could scale his/her version
> to the desired task. The only variable in the
> software would be to insert a shunt constant
> for current interpretation.
>
> The battery tester itself is stone simple.
> The sexy part is the application that manages
> it. John went out and bought VBasic.net a few
> months ago but we've not had occasion to use
> it yet.
>
> Bob . . .
I think that's an idea worth exploring!
I've developed a 500W (400W continuous) electronic load that can be used to extend the capabilities of any analyzer or discharger (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=938266) but there's a real need for "host" software and a load in the power range of the CBA, perhaps 100W-200W. This would be perfect for most DIY'ers and could easily be paralleled for higher power handling.
The software would have to be very graphics-capable as the plotting and graphing
features would be extremely important. I'd love to see it not require a huge
installation just to run. But, the options may be limited.
The CBA software has a nice light footprint though. An executable, help file,
settings file, three DLLs for USB comms and forms handling. It may have some
registry keys or other files in public directories but it doesn't seem to require
the NET framework. MileHighWings' eFlightWatt logger had a single executable
file that did everything, no installation needed. Something like this for
an open source tester would be terrific.
--------
John M.
Owner
CamLight Systems
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221437#221437
Message 5
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Subject: | Anything wrong with using a plier style crimper? |
I rounded up some ratcheting style crimping tools from airport folk and
a homebuilderfor crimping Red crimp on connectors from Stein (fast
on and ring).
Got hold of a Paladin tool with several sets of
dies, and some no name non adjustable tool.
The die sets for
the Paladine:
****Part number said for insulated terminals and had 3
colored dots including red
****There was a set of dies with no part
number but fit tool (perhaps from Stein??) and looked like for insulated
terminals
And a few others, one for uninsulated terminals and
other
First off no matter what the adjustment, if using 22
gauge wire, even with the dies completely bottomed, could not get as much
a grip as i would like. I could semi make it better by splicing more wire
and doubling it over to better fill hole. Problem was it still did not
crimp wire terrific and the portion that was to crimp on the insulation
for strain relief was too far away (too wide a die?) where it was only
partially catching the metal in the terminals. All the terminals from
Stein and Terminal Town and Mcmaster (double metal) appeared to be too
short for tool. I tried all the dies I had and combinations. Not great
success with theno name tool with fixed dies and is non
adjustable.
I could get an OK crimp, probably will work and
with heat shrink support will probably be OK, but insulation was not
captured properly and if i sliced open the crimp on the wire, you could
see it is not as compact as would be nice.
Then I pulled out an
old and rusty Whitaker WC2850 tool, looks like a pair of pliers with
several dies on it.
After some practice I can make what I think
is a very nice crimp, far better than what I could do withthe other
tools.
*First I stripped twice what I need and double up tail
to go into terminal
*Then crimp with RARB dieabout 1/16"
from the edge of terminal
*Then use a part of tool called
"A" which is kind of a half cylinder (feel here is important)
and put a dimple on top of terminalwhere I just crimped. I tried to
over crimp this step and if I go crazy where terminal in stead of being
straight begins to bend, I can tear wire when pulled very hard because
wire is mashed too much. I am pretty confident can repeat this dimple
consistently.When I sliced practice terminals apart had a very
compacted crimp without strands being deformed/mashed. Without dimple,
crimp is acceptable in my mind for automobiles only, and places easy to
get at with no moisture present.
*Then use RARB to crimp wire
insulation about 1/16" from edge, no hurting of insulation at all and
wire is held pretty good.
Anyone see any problems crimping like
I describe? i could have stripped and crimped a dozen terminals in time it
took me to write this.
Ron Parigoris
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