Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:24 AM - Re: Cessna Flaps motor (bouguy)
2. 06:01 AM - Re: Using TurboCad (Sam Hoskins)
3. 08:09 AM - Re: Battery capacity checker (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 08:18 AM - VP-50 backup (bcollinsmn)
5. 08:21 AM - Re: Re: Cessna Flaps motor (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 08:48 AM - Fuel pressure sender testing (Sheldon Olesen)
7. 09:58 AM - Re: Using TurboCad (Eric M. Jones)
8. 10:54 AM - VOR interference with other wiring? (Jef Vervoort)
9. 11:21 AM - Re: Using TurboCad (David M)
10. 11:37 AM - Re: Using TurboCad (jaybannist@cs.com)
11. 01:11 PM - Re: Using TurboCad (Eric M. Jones)
12. 01:23 PM - Re: Anything wrong with using a plier style crimper? (rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US)
13. 01:37 PM - Amp crimper 59250 question (rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US)
14. 01:46 PM - Re: VOR interference with other wiring? (Dennis & Anne Glaeser)
15. 03:08 PM - Re: MaxDim Group Buy Opportunity (Phil Samuelian)
16. 04:45 PM - Re: Using TurboCad (B Tomm)
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Subject: | Re: Cessna Flaps motor |
Hi Bob ,
thanks for your reply ;
it is not for a bus load analysis , as it is an intermittent load ;
seen a 10A breaker on a 24Volts Cessna 172 but as i am
building a faster aircraft with more flaps surfaces i thought it
was not correctly sized for me .
i am going to follow your indications : wiring with 14awg with
a 15 Amp breaker , and if it pops up , i will change for a 20 Amp.
i have a similar question for a Prestolite Power Pack rebuilt
Aroelectic 28volts HYH-5001ECH ; what would be the correct
wire sizing and breaker ?
thanks again for help ,
Boullu guy .
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222762#222762
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Subject: | Re: Using TurboCad |
I have used various CAD systems over the years and when I retired I was
seeking a good free one for home use. I came across a professional program
called Siemens' Solid Edge Designer for
2D<http://www.plm.automation.siemens.com/en_us/products/velocity/solidedge/free2d/index.shtml>.
I really like it. It uses something called "Relationship handles" which is
useful, but difficult for me to describe here.
The company makes it free to individuals and companies in the hope that you
like it so much that you'll upgrade to their 3D system. It does work with
all of Bob's drawings.
The bad new is there is no manual available. The good news is the online
help is adequate and, best yet, there is also ae e-mail list run by tech
experts at SolidEdge.
Sam Hoskins
Murphysboro, IL
On Fri, Jan 2, 2009 at 8:40 PM, B Tomm <fvalarm@rapidnet.net> wrote:
> To the Cad whizzes out there.
>
> I'm taking advantage of the bad weather and trying to "professionalize" my
> wiring diagrams using TurboCad. I'm starting to feel really old here cause
> I'm so frustrated with this TurboCad program. I really want to make it work
> and not get something else. I've imported a drawing from Bob's collection
> in DWG format. All I want to do is erase a few lines, re-draw them slightly
> elsewhere and copy a few fuses to add the extra circuits. Erase, copy, cut,
> paste, snap are eluding me even though there are a bazillion tools all
> around. Can I not just put a square around a section of the drawing, cut
> and paste etc?
>
> Jack Daniels is starting to tempt me!
>
> Bevan
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Battery capacity checker |
At 07:44 PM 1/3/2009, you wrote:
><brianrobertwood@gmail.com>
>
>Shouldn't you have to take into account the effciency of the inverter
>also, to get usable results?
Not necessary. You set the load (numbers and sizes of
light bulbs) to achieve the desired LOAD ON THE BATTERY.
You're correct that lamp loads will be less than battery
load due to inefficiencies in the power conversion process . . .
That's why you set it up with the DC ammeter.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
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Wondering if anyone has installed a Vertical Power 50 (or 100, the 200 is a whole
different animal) system and, if so, what did your backup system look like?
The "get home" system on the VP Web site would work if the control unit had already
crapped out, but doesn't the fuse block prior to the control unit create
a point of failure in normal operations? Is it serious?
Bob Collins
RV Builders' Hotline
http://rvbuildershotline.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222789#222789
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Subject: | Re: Cessna Flaps motor |
At 03:20 AM 1/4/2009, you wrote:
>
>Hi Bob ,
>
>thanks for your reply ;
>
>it is not for a bus load analysis , as it is an intermittent load ;
>seen a 10A breaker on a 24Volts Cessna 172 but as i am
>building a faster aircraft with more flaps surfaces i thought it
>was not correctly sized for me .
"faster", "more" etc. are poor quantifiers of design.
The air-loads on a flap system are directly related to
area and IAS . . . but FORCE on the actuator is also
a function of rates and mechanism.
>i am going to follow your indications : wiring with 14awg with
>a 15 Amp breaker , and if it pops up , i will change for a 20 Amp.
>
>i have a similar question for a Prestolite Power Pack rebuilt
>Aroelectic 28volts HYH-5001ECH ; what would be the correct
>wire sizing and breaker ?
It's a WAG. Without specific engineering data for
using this component in the proposed system, the
conservative approach is duplicate what was in the
original system and then take measurements during
your fly-off to deduce whether or not modifications
are called for. It's not likely that you're going
to experience any big surprises. Even if you do,
the worst thing that happens is an adjustment of
wire size and protection.
I get a lot of emails on this and similar topics.
Many folks think that from first flight on a new
airplane until s/n 100 rolls of the assembly line,
few if any changes happen to the design. Our
OBAM aircraft are no different with respect to
verifying achievement of design goals . . .
The potential for risk in sizing wire and fuses
is very low. WAG it, verify it, then modify as
necessary.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
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Subject: | Fuel pressure sender testing |
Bob,
I'm having trouble with my EIS 6000 fuel pressure reading. I have the
proper scale, offset factors, and resistor entered into the EIS for a
0-30 setup. It reads a constant 10.3 psi regardless of whether or
not the fuel pump is on or not. I've checked the continuity of the
pressure sender across the terminals and it has continuity and a
resistance of 6.2 ohms without the pump being on. However, I have no
idea of what it is supposed to read and how to trouble shoot the
problem. Some hints would be welcome.
Thanks,
Sheldon Olesen
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Subject: | Re: Using TurboCad |
Eric's Guaranteed Ten-Step Program for Learning TurboCAD (or any CAD program):
Intro:
1) Almost all CAD programs are wonderful. The more expensive ones have only a
tiny bit more than the cheapest (or the FREE ones). Any CAD is a million times
better than no CAD. CAD, along with a web browser, email, a spreadsheet and a
word processing program are just about required to express your technical talents
nowadays.
2) Pareto's Principle: 20% of any tools will do 80% of the work, so you don't have
to learn it all. Once you can do the basics, you will intuitively know there
are additional tools for more complicated stuff.
3) If you really want to get good at mechanical drawing, get a copy of ANSI-Y14.5M
Dimensioning and Tolerancing. The 1982 edition is $20 and 99% current today.
The 1994 edition is about $90 on Amazon. This is not required for electrical
schematics and other arts.
4) You'll need a good monitor, a decently fast computer (Especially for 3D), and
a mouse. But you can use any printer, and the fancy devices you sometimes see
in CAD setups are not needed.
Basics:
5) The computer screen is a window to look through, not a piece of drawing paper
to look upon. This simple idea often baffles new users. Understand this thoroughly
or you will be lost.
6) CAD has no display scale. Print scales are only rarely followed (see point 5).
A CAD information block never (or rarely) says "SCALE", unless the boss is
an idiot.
Learning it:
7) If you have a paper tutorial manual (remember the software has the manual in
it, usually in a more usable form). Turn on the CAD program. Tear the covers
off the manual and drop them into the trash. Then look at a page, understand and
DO what is on it and drop it into the trash. Don't puzzle over anything...you
can do that later. If a tool does not seem relevant, toss it into the trash.
Very satisfying.
8) Turn off the CAD program and sleep on it. You'll get better at it as you sleep.
9) Remember that there is a simple way to do everything, and CAD has tools to make
those simple task even easier (and more sophisticated), but you can always
revert to doing things in simple ways. As a learning game--Draw a circle: It
can be done with a center and one point on the circumference, Two semicircles,
four quarter-circles, the letter "o", the zero, a three point circle, a freehand
sketch...see how many you can come up with.
10) Start using it. Begin slowly and don't beat yourself, and don't push yourself
if it is not fun--because you'll never learn it unless you enjoy it.
Appendix:
CAD provides an infinite variety of capabilities. Sometimes machined parts are
drawn as CAD drawings, but a layer under the drawing can be the Bill of Materials,
the revision history, design notes, whatever. A drawing can have a huge number
of layers.
A thing drawn in CAD can be saved and never has to be drawn again. CAD data can
be input to automatic machinery to make a part. CAD can be drawn parametrically
to make different sized parts. The applications are endless.
Things can be drawn in CAD that simply CANNOT be drawn by hand. These vary from
the simplest second-order curves to complex spirals, and 2d and 3d geometric
forms, Bezier splines, log curves, etc.
Finally:
Have faith! Sell or give away your set of mechanical drawing tools, including Tee
Square and drawing boards, templates and engineering rulers, drawing pens,
triangles, french curves, centers, trammels, lettering guides, electric eraser,
on and on....That day ain't never coming back.
ps (Google "TurboCAD tutorial" NOT "turbo CAD tutorial").
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222803#222803
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Subject: | VOR interference with other wiring? |
Hello,
I'm mounting a Bob Archer VOR antenna in the right wingtip.
There will be also lights, nav. & landing & strobe.
The strobes will be powered by a single power pack in the fuselage, using a
shielded cable ( from Whelen).
I have mounted a corrugated nylon conduit in the wings, and was planning to
put all the wires, including the VOR coax, together in this conduit.
Is this a good solution? I do not find accurate info in the archives.
Thanks; Jef Vervoort, RV9A.
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Using TurboCad |
I've tried several CAD programs over the years, an own a version of
TurboCAD. What I dislike intensely about these is the horrible user
interface. None of them are intuitive. Just to layout a simple wall
with adjoining wall is my initial test. All of them fail. <sigh>
David M.
----- Original Message -----
From: Sam Hoskins
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 7:58 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Using TurboCad
I have used various CAD systems over the years and when I retired I
was seeking a good free one for home use. I came across a professional
program called Siemens' Solid Edge Designer for 2D. I really like it.
It uses something called "Relationship handles" which is useful, but
difficult for me to describe here.
The company makes it free to individuals and companies in the hope
that you like it so much that you'll upgrade to their 3D system. It
does work with all of Bob's drawings.
The bad new is there is no manual available. The good news is the
online help is adequate and, best yet, there is also ae e-mail list run
by tech experts at SolidEdge.
Sam Hoskins
Murphysboro, IL
On Fri, Jan 2, 2009 at 8:40 PM, B Tomm <fvalarm@rapidnet.net> wrote:
To the Cad whizzes out there.
I'm taking advantage of the bad weather and trying to
"professionalize" my wiring diagrams using TurboCad. I'm starting to
feel really old here cause I'm so frustrated with this TurboCad program.
I really want to make it work and not get something else. I've
imported a drawing from Bob's collection in DWG format. All I want to
do is erase a few lines, re-draw them slightly elsewhere and copy a few
fuses to add the extra circuits. Erase, copy, cut, paste, snap are
eluding me even though there are a bazillion tools all around. Can I
not just put a square around a section of the drawing, cut and paste
etc?
Jack Daniels is starting to tempt me!
Bevan
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
1/3/2009 2:14 PM
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Using TurboCad |
Try AutoCAD Lite.? I have been using AutoCAD for about 25 years and find it very
intuitive for the basic functions. (I suppose that experience could have something
to do with that ;>)? AutoCAD Lite has all the basic functions plus.? It
is probably more expensive than others, but it WILL do what you want it to do.
Jay in Dallas
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: David M <ainut@hiwaay.net>
Sent: Sun, 4 Jan 2009 1:18 pm
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Using TurboCad
I've tried several CAD programs over the years, an
own a version of TurboCAD.? What I dislike intensely about these is the
horrible user interface.? None of them are intuitive.? Just to layout
a simple wall with adjoining wall is my initial test.? All of them
fail.? <sigh>
?
David M.
?
----- Original Message -----
From:
Sam
Hoskins
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 7:58
AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Using
TurboCad
I have used various CAD systems over the years and when I
retired I was seeking a good free one for home use.? I came across a
professional program called Siemens'
Solid Edge Designer for 2D.? I really like it.? It uses
something called "Relationship handles" which is useful, but difficult for me
to describe here.
The company makes it free to individuals and
companies in the hope that you like it so much that you'll upgrade to their 3D
system.? It does work with all of Bob's drawings.
The bad new is
there is no manual available.? The good news is the online help is
adequate and, best yet, there is also ae e-mail list run by tech experts at
SolidEdge.
Sam Hoskins
Murphysboro,
IL
On Fri, Jan 2, 2009 at 8:40 PM, B Tomm <fvalarm@rapidnet.net>
wrote:
To the
Cad whizzes out there.
?
I'm
taking advantage of the bad weather and trying to "professionalize" my
wiring diagrams using TurboCad.? I'm starting to feel really old here
cause I'm so frustrated with this TurboCad program.? I really want to
make it work and not get something else.? I've imported a drawing from
Bob's collection in DWG format.? All I want to do is erase a few lines,
re-draw them slightly elsewhere and copy a few fuses to add the extra
circuits.? Erase, copy, cut, paste, snap are eluding me?even
though there are a bazillion tools all around.? Can I not just put a
square around a section of the drawing, cut and paste
etc?
?
Jack
Daniels is starting to tempt me!
?
Bevan?
?
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
-
270.10.2/1873 -
Release Date: 1/3/2009 2:14 PM
________________________________________________________________________
Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com
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Subject: | Re: Using TurboCad |
Let's not make this a back-and-forth about which CAD program is best. TurboCAD
is fine (and it's NOT even what I use...). ALL CAD programs are good, and the
differences between them make comparisons difficult. Any first-time user might
find the learning curve steep, but see my (above)suggestions. Simple programs
are easy to use but limited, complex programs are harder to learn but powerful
and expensive.
But learn SOMETHING, and they all talk to each other...so what the heck.
"....be sure to make a copy of everything before getting rid of it."
--Samuel Goldwyn
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222834#222834
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Subject: | Re: Anything wrong with using a plier style |
crimper?
Hi Bob
Thx. for the information you sent.
I have
been fooling with borrowed crimpers since your reply E-mail, some cheap,
some not so cheap, and although I can get a semi OK crimp on #22 wire, I
just wasn't happy. That's until just now. A local guy turned up at the
airport and had an Amp 59250 tool that he purchased used off of E-Bay. It
appears to be the exact same tool as you depict as "high priced
tool" in:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/CrimpTools/crimptools.html
It works great on a single #22! Easy to use.
End
of story, I can borrow anytime I need. The reason it works better is the
die is very well thought out where it contains the terminal from growing
too wide. The other tools work OK on #20 wire, but the 59250 works well on
both.
Ron Parigoris
>>I rounded up some
ratcheting style crimping tools from airport folk
>>and a
homebuilder for crimping Red crimp on connectors from Stein
>>(fast on and ring).
>>
>>Got hold of a
Paladin tool with several sets of dies, and some no
>>name non
adjustable tool.
>>
>>The die sets for the
Paladine:
>>****Part number said for insulated terminals and
had 3 colored dots
>>including red
>>****There was
a set of dies with no part number but fit tool
>>(perhaps from
Stein??) and looked like for insulated terminals
>>And a few
others, one for uninsulated terminals and other
>>
>>First off no matter what the adjustment, if using 22 gauge wire,
>>even with the dies completely bottomed, could not get as
much a grip
>>as i would like. I could semi make it better by
splicing more wire
>>and doubling it over to better fill hole.
Problem was it still did
>>not crimp wire terrific and the
portion that was to crimp on the
>>insulation for strain
relief was too far away (too wide a die?)
>>where it was only
partially catching the metal in the terminals. All
>>the
terminals from Stein and Terminal Town and Mcmaster (double
>>metal) appeared to be too short for tool. I tried all the dies I
had
>>and combinations. Not great success with the no name
tool with fixed
>>dies and is non adjustable.
>>
>>I could get an OK crimp, probably will work and with heat
shrink
>>support will probably be OK, but insulation was not
captured
>>properly and if i sliced open the crimp on the
wire, you could see
>>it is not as compact as would be nice.
>>
>>Then I pulled out an old and rusty Whitaker
WC2850 tool, looks like
>>a pair of pliers with several dies
on it.
>>
>>After some practice I can make what I
think is a very nice crimp,
>>far better than what I could do
with the other tools.
>>
>>*First I stripped twice
what I need and double up tail to go into
>> terminal
>>*Then crimp with RARB die about 1/16" from the edge of
terminal
>>*Then use a part of tool called "A" which
is kind of a half cylinder
>>(feel here is important) and put
a dimple on top of terminal where I
>>just crimped. I tried to
over crimp this step and if I go crazy
>>where terminal in
stead of being straight begins to bend, I can tear
>>wire when
pulled very hard because wire is mashed too much. I am
>>pretty confident can repeat this dimple consistently. When I
sliced
>>practice terminals apart had a very compacted crimp
without strands
>>being deformed/mashed. Without dimple, crimp
is acceptable in my
>>mind for automobiles only, and places
easy to get at with no moisture
>> present.
>>*Then use RARB to crimp wire insulation about 1/16" from
edge, no
>>hurting of insulation at all and wire is held
pretty good.
>>
>>Anyone see any problems crimping
like I describe? i could have
>>stripped and crimped a dozen
terminals in time it took me to write this.
>>
>>Ron Parigoris
>
> The physics for making a
gas-tight connection between wire
> and terminal is
process-sensitive. The "ideal" crimped
> junction puts
sufficient force on the terminal to close
> the cross-section of
terminal and wire copper just to the
> point that the terminal
and wire strands become one piece
> of metal. Too little mash,
and voids in the joint allow
> oxygen laden moisture to enter
raising risk of failure
> due to corrosion. Too much mash and
strength of the
> strands is weakened by reduction of
cross-section thus
> raising risk of failure under
tension/vibration. See:
>
>
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/CrimpTools/crimptools.html
>
> Dimple-crimps are for terminals going onto solid wire
>
only. See "Solistrand" terminals and tooling from AMP.
>
> You will note that all crimp tools suggested and/or
> evaluated in our writing are free of "dimple" punches.
> The PIDG style terminal is best applied with uniform
>
pressure offered by smooth bore dies.
>
> Of secondary
concern is molding of the wire-grip to the
> conductor just
outside the joint. The terminal may have
> too little volume in
the closed condition for the amount
> of plastic in the
terminal's wire support insulation.
> See:
>
>
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/JST_Samples_2.jpg
>
> These terminals were electrically okay when installed with
> our favorite tools . . . but did not become part of our
>
inventory because we had no tools that would do a professional
>
looking installation.
>
> Ron, it's not possible to
encourage or discourage use of the
> tools you've cited without
making a first-hand evaluation
> of their performance under the
guide-lines discussed in
> the article above and these additional
pieces found on
> my website . . .
>
>
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/faston3.pdf
>
>
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/terminal.pdf
>
>
Finally, on the subject of wire-joining, I'll remind
> readers of
this article published some years back
> in Sport Aviation. The
author didn't have a
> clue about simple-ideas for the processes
in
> which he claimed considerable knowledged and skill.
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/articles/rules/review.html
>
>
> Bob . . .
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Subject: | Amp crimper 59250 question |
The Amp crimper 59250 as seen in:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/CrimpTools/crimptools.html
has a four position adjustment.
How is it best
determined which position to select for a given wire/terminal?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
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Subject: | Re: VOR interference with other wiring? |
I did exactly that on my RV7A and have no problems whatsoever.
Dennis Glaeser
-----------------------------------
Hello,
I'm mounting a Bob Archer VOR antenna in the right wingtip.
There will be also lights, nav. & landing & strobe.
The strobes will be powered by a single power pack in the fuselage, using a
shielded cable ( from Whelen).
I have mounted a corrugated nylon conduit in the wings, and was planning to
put all the wires, including the VOR coax, together in this conduit.
Is this a good solution? I do not find accurate info in the archives.
Thanks; Jef Vervoort, RV9A.
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: MaxDim Group Buy Opportunity |
LAST CALL!!!
All current orders for the MaxDim panel dimmer "Group Buy" will be
shipped this week.
If you're thinking about using the most sophisticated panel dimmer in
your project, this would be the time to buy.
Price guaranteed for the next 10 days... $128 each + $3 shipping (+
sales tax in CA).
These dimmers are unparalleled in performance...
NO heat, NO separate, bulky control unit. NO heatsink. Amazing 350W
power control in a 1.25" diameter unit.
This is a best-of-breed product. Mooney has specified these for all
their new planes! (STC and PMA)
5-35VDC, 12.5Amps and around 1 ounce!
Hook up power, ground, and lights (3 connections), 2 mounting holes
to drill, and you're done.
PLEASE CONTACT OFF-LIST psamuelian@charter.net and provide info:
Your Name?
How many MaxDim units?
Your shipping address? (USA only, please)
Your phone number?
Please mention the "Aeroelectric MaxDim Group Buy" in the subject of
your email.
PayPal or other arrangements for payment.
These are priced a few bucks above distribution to cover the shipping
costs to me, and handling charges when redistributed to you.
I recently installed 2 of these in my Cessna and they perform as
advertised.
Thanks!
Phil
RV7 tail (looking to buy wing kit), Cessna 177
Message 16
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Thanks for advice. I am downloading now and will give it a try.
Bevan
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam
Hoskins
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 5:58 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Using TurboCad
I have used various CAD systems over the years and when I retired I was
seeking a good free one for home use. I came across a professional program
called Siemens'
<http://www.plm.automation.siemens.com/en_us/products/velocity/solidedge/fre
e2d/index.shtml> Solid Edge Designer for 2D. I really like it. It uses
something called "Relationship handles" which is useful, but difficult for
me to describe here.
The company makes it free to individuals and companies in the hope that you
like it so much that you'll upgrade to their 3D system. It does work with
all of Bob's drawings.
The bad new is there is no manual available. The good news is the online
help is adequate and, best yet, there is also ae e-mail list run by tech
experts at SolidEdge.
Sam Hoskins
Murphysboro, IL
On Fri, Jan 2, 2009 at 8:40 PM, B Tomm <fvalarm@rapidnet.net> wrote:
To the Cad whizzes out there.
I'm taking advantage of the bad weather and trying to "professionalize" my
wiring diagrams using TurboCad. I'm starting to feel really old here cause
I'm so frustrated with this TurboCad program. I really want to make it work
and not get something else. I've imported a drawing from Bob's collection
in DWG format. All I want to do is erase a few lines, re-draw them slightly
elsewhere and copy a few fuses to add the extra circuits. Erase, copy, cut,
paste, snap are eluding me even though there are a bazillion tools all
around. Can I not just put a square around a section of the drawing, cut
and paste etc?
Jack Daniels is starting to tempt me!
Bevan
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