Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:29 AM - Re: Fuel pressure sender testing (Bill Schertz)
2. 08:48 AM - Static in radio (Bob)
3. 09:29 AM - Re: Static in radio (Etienne Phillips)
4. 09:34 AM - Lemo plug and KX99 (Sheldon Olesen)
5. 10:22 AM - Metcal soldering wand repair (Tom Barter)
6. 01:23 PM - Re: Metcal soldering wand repair (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 01:26 PM - Re: Amp crimper 59250 question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 01:29 PM - Re: Re: VOR interference with other wiring? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 02:36 PM - Re: Amp crimper 59250 question (rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US)
10. 03:03 PM - Re: Amp crimper 59250 question (Gilles Thesee)
11. 03:10 PM - What's thoughts on Cool Amp? (rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US)
12. 04:15 PM - Will other wiring interfere with Magnetometer? (Allen Fulmer)
13. 05:19 PM - Re: Using TurboCad (Emrath)
14. 09:41 PM - Re: Will other wiring interfere with Magnetometer? (Robert McCallum)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Fuel pressure sender testing |
Try calibrating it off the plane, with air pressure and a pressure gauge
hooked up to a regulator. then you can measure the resistance as a function
of pressure and see if the sender is changing, or if the problem lies with
the readout.
Bill Schertz
KIS Cruiser #4045
N343BS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sheldon Olesen" <saolesen@sirentel.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 10:46 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Fuel pressure sender testing
> <saolesen@sirentel.net>
>
> Bob,
>
> I'm having trouble with my EIS 6000 fuel pressure reading. I have the
> proper scale, offset factors, and resistor entered into the EIS for a
> 0-30 setup. It reads a constant 10.3 psi regardless of whether or not
> the fuel pump is on or not. I've checked the continuity of the pressure
> sender across the terminals and it has continuity and a resistance of 6.2
> ohms without the pump being on. However, I have no idea of what it is
> supposed to read and how to trouble shoot the problem. Some hints would
> be welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sheldon Olesen
>
>
>
Message 2
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Com Icom A-6 handheld connected only to headset, NO CONNECTION TO A/C ELECT
RICAL. Static noise and flickering RX symbol on handheld (no voice being re
ceived)so distractiing its makes use unbearable. No static during actual v
oice reception-tower reports clear,good, no noise voice. Outside of a/c fac
ing prop or tail (no noise)-move in circle about a/c noise develops. Inside
a/c noise at all times except during actual voice reception. The following
have NO affect: tried different radio,headset, partchcords-disconnected al
ternator belt,field lead-put condensor for noise trap on regulator,coil, di
stributor-on/off of elec T/B(has in-line filter),trim tab,intercom,strobe-a
ll electrical connections,wires,terminal strips verified good-only other el
ectrical are the amp/vot meter connections. Noise does not occur when radio
/headset combo used in other a/c. 12 years building, FAA certified, l year
so far chasing =22BUGS=22 and hopefully last item to correct so I CAN FLY!
P LEASE HELP IF YOU WOULD Thank You, Bob Sauer Age 70 Wanting to Fly www.re
sauer@cox.net
--
We are a community of 5.8 million users fighting spam.
The Professional version does not have this message
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Static in radio |
Hi Bob
Not trying to be funny, or to appear obnoxious in any way, but have
you tried adjusting the squelch?
If the radio is actively receiving voice, then you shouldn't here
anything! If the voice reception is clear, then it reduces the
possibility of serious interference, and is probably the radio
turning the gain all the way up when there's no signal being
received, thereby amplifying even the smallest bit of noise. If your
squelch level is set to open, or is too low, then the radio will
think this is a legitimate signal and plays it through the headset.
I hope this helps...
Etienne
On 05 Jan 2009, at 6:46 PM, Bob wrote:
> Com Icom A-6 handheld connected only to headset, NO CONNECTION TO A/
> C ELECTRICAL. Static noise and flickering RX symbol on handheld (no
> voice being received)so distractiing its makes use unbearable. No
> static during actual voice reception-tower reports clear,good, no
> noise voice. Outside of a/c facing prop or tail (no noise)-move in
> circle about a/c noise develops. Inside a/c noise at all times
> except during actual voice reception. The following have NO affect:
> tried different radio,headset, partchcords-disconnected alternator
> belt,field lead-put condensor for noise trap on regulator,coil,
> distributor-on/off of elec T/B(has in-line filter),trim
> tab,intercom,strobe-all electrical connections,wires,terminal
> strips verified good-only other electrical are the amp/vot meter
> connections. Noise does not occur when radio/headset combo used in
> other a/c. 12 years building, FAA certified, l year so far chasing
> "BUGS" and hopefully last item to correct so I CAN FLY!
> P LEASE HELP IF YOU WOULD Thank You, Bob Sauer Age 70 Wanting to
> Fly www.resauer@cox.net
>
> We are a community of 5.8 million users fighting spam.
> The Professional version does not have this message
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Lemo plug and KX99 |
Has anyone tried to hookup a Bose Lemo plug to a KX99 hand held?
Any problems?
Sheldon Olesen
Message 5
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Subject: | Metcal soldering wand repair |
A while back I purchased a Metcal soldering wand, model MX RM3E, which was
damaged when it arrived. The cable had been severed about in the middle.
The company sent me a replacement, but I was wondering if the cable could be
repaired. The cable has a braided shield around a single stranded
conductor. Any thoughts?
Regards,
Tom Barter
Kesley, IA
Avid Magnum
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Metcal soldering wand repair |
At 12:19 PM 1/5/2009, you wrote:
>A while back I purchased a Metcal soldering wand, model MX RM3E,
>which was damaged when it arrived. The cable had been severed about
>in the middle. The company sent me a replacement, but I was
>wondering if the cable could be repaired. The cable has a braided
>shield around a single stranded conductor. Any thoughts?
>
Sure. It's not "magic" wire. It's not even a true coaxial
cable suitable for transmission lines. The Metcal power
supplies are really a radio frequency transmitter with
an operating frequency about 300 Khz and a 30 watts or
so power output.
The soldering tips are the "magic" parts. At temperatures
below their rated heating value, they represent a rather
low impedance load to the "transmitter". Hence they
draw power and convert it to heat (really useful for
melting solder).
At their calibrated operating temperature, the "magic"
material in the tip (30% unobtainium alloyed with 69%
youneverheardofit and 1% pixiedust) goes into a high
impedance state thus reducing its power consumption
thereby regulating temperature AT THE TIP.
The wand wiring is special to the extent that it is
very flexible, resistant to damage from the hot iron,
and reasonably robust (but as you've observed, not
invincible!).
Ordinary craftsmanship can be used to splice your damaged
wire. Take a look at this comic book:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire/shldwire.html
Suggest you prepare the cut ends as shown except cut
the center conductor to about 1/4" exposed insulation
and 1/2" exposed wire. Lap splice the center conductors.
Wrap with two layers electrical tap. Trim outer
conductor for 1/2" overlap and solder those too. Cover
whole thing with heat-shrink (oh yeah, the heat shrink
needs to go on before you start stripping/splicing
the conductors.
I've made similar repairs to Metcal wands like this
twice with gratifying results.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Amp crimper 59250 question |
At 03:29 PM 1/4/2009, you wrote:
>The Amp crimper 59250 as seen in:
><http://aeroelectric.com/articles/CrimpTools/crimptools.html>http://aeroelectric.com/articles/CrimpTools/crimptools.html
>
>has a four position adjustment.
>
>How is it best determined which position to select for a given wire/terminal?
It stays on "1" unless you're putting terminals onto
multiple wires as in . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/3x20Blue.jpg
or using wire with really thick insulation like . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/CLEVELAND66A.jpg
Do some tests. It's better to err on too-tight as
opposed to too-loose.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: VOR interference with other wiring? |
It's a well watered and fertilized myth that strobe head
wires are a noise coupling risk to coaxial feedlines to
antennas. You may route them together without concern.
Bob . . .
At 03:44 PM 1/4/2009, you wrote:
><glaesers@wideopenwest.com>
>
>I did exactly that on my RV7A and have no problems whatsoever.
>
>Dennis Glaeser
>
>-----------------------------------
>Hello,
>I'm mounting a Bob Archer VOR antenna in the right wingtip.
>There will be also lights, nav. & landing & strobe.
>The strobes will be powered by a single power pack in the fuselage, using a
>shielded cable ( from Whelen).
>I have mounted a corrugated nylon conduit in the wings, and was planning to
>put all the wires, including the VOR coax, together in this conduit.
>
>Is this a good solution? I do not find accurate info in the archives.
>
>Thanks; Jef Vervoort, RV9A.
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Amp crimper 59250 question |
Hi Bob
Thx. for the reply.
I found a useful site:
http://www.aircraftmech.com
Under crimpers
Then AMP
P.I.G.D. Certicrimp 59250 with pictures of
precise what you said.
There appears to be lots of good
information on aeroplane electrical stuff, if you have a chance have a
look and let group know what you think.
Sincerely
Ron
Parigoris
> It stays on
"1" unless you're putting terminals onto
> multiple
wires as in . . .
>
>
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/3x20Blue.jpg
>
> or using wire with really thick insulation like . . .
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/CLEVELAND66A.jpg
>
> Do some tests. It's better to err on too-tight as
> opposed to too-loose.
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Amp crimper 59250 question |
rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US a crit :
> I found a useful site:
> http://www.aircraftmech.com
>
> ...
>
> There appears to be lots of good information on aeroplane electrical
> stuff, if you have a chance have a look and let group know what you think.
>
Ron and all,
Thanks for the hint to this most interesting website.
I noticed the author is aware of the Aeroelectric website and technical
picture.
I'm also proud to mention that the author is also aware of the Contrails
! website, and found some of my own electrical pictures worthy of
publishing ;-)
Best regards,
--
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 11
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Subject: | What's thoughts on Cool Amp? |
Anyone have any thoughts on using Cool Amp onbuss and other high
amperage connections?
http://www.cool-amp.com/
It
is a wipe on with damp cloth application.
Ron Parigoris
Message 12
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Subject: | Will other wiring interfere with Magnetometer? |
Rather than hijack the thread on interference with Bob Archer VOR antennas I
thought I would start a new thread on Magnetometer interference:
My magnetometers will be on the end ribs of my RV7.
GRT Magnetometer installation instructions read:
-----------------------------------------------
"The most important consideration when mounting the magnetometer is that of
choosing a location in the airplane that is away from magnetic disturbances.
It is quite amazing how sensitive the magnetometer is to these disturbances,
and how much error this can cause in the magnetic heading reported by the
AHRS."
and then:
"... be sure to keep the magnetometer at least 12 inches away from any
current carrying wires (such as navigation or landing light wires), and more
than 18 inches away from ferrous metal, such as the steel mass balance tube
that is typically used in the leading edge of ailerons."
-----------------------------------------------
On my RV7, I only put two conduits in the wings as I was building: one near
the trailing edge that runs parallel (and within 12 inches) to the aileron
"steel mass balance tube" and the other just behind the spar. This forward
run was originally going to carry all the wires to strobes, nav. lights,
landing lights, and coax to Bob Archer VOR antenna.
I guess I could run all the electrical stuff in the rear conduit and the
magnetometer wires in the forward one.
Opinion Bob? Other's experience?
Thanks,
Allen Fulmer
RV7 wiring
Alexander City, AL
Message 13
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FYI, I downloaded for free the Turbocad LE or Learning edition. The
tutorial is on line. Worked for me, but it is a bit cumbersome but it was a
good price to value ratio.
Marty
Brentwood TN
Time: 04:45:24 PM PST US
From: "B Tomm" <fvalarm@rapidnet.net>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Using TurboCad
Thanks for advice. I am downloading now and will give it a try.
Bevan
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam
Hoskins
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 5:58 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Using TurboCad
I have used various CAD systems over the years and when I retired I was
seeking a good free one for home use. I came across a professional program
called Siemens'
<http://www.plm.automation.siemens.com/en_us/products/velocity/solidedge/fre
e2d/index.shtml> Solid Edge Designer for 2D. I really like it. It uses
something called "Relationship handles" which is useful, but difficult for
me to describe here.
The company makes it free to individuals and companies in the hope that you
like it so much that you'll upgrade to their 3D system. It does work with
all of Bob's drawings.
The bad new is there is no manual available. The good news is the online
help is adequate and, best yet, there is also ae e-mail list run by tech
experts at SolidEdge.
Sam Hoskins
Murphysboro, IL
On Fri, Jan 2, 2009 at 8:40 PM, B Tomm <fvalarm@rapidnet.net> wrote:
To the Cad whizzes out there.
I'm taking advantage of the bad weather and trying to "professionalize" my
wiring diagrams using TurboCad. I'm starting to feel really old here cause
I'm so frustrated with this TurboCad program. I really want to make it work
and not get something else. I've imported a drawing from Bob's collection
in DWG format. All I want to do is erase a few lines, re-draw them slightly
elsewhere and copy a few fuses to add the extra circuits. Erase, copy, cut,
paste, snap are eluding me even though there are a bazillion tools all
around. Can I not just put a square around a section of the drawing, cut
and paste etc?
Jack Daniels is starting to tempt me!
Bevan
Marty
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Will other wiring interfere with Magnetometer? |
Allen;
The instructions you cite seem to be referring to the location of the
magnetometer itself NOT the routing of its connecting wires. The
instructions say "when mounting the magnetometer - - etc choose a location
away from magnetic disturbances" They make no mention of any precautions to
be taken in routing or location of the connecting wires which is what you'd
be running through your conduit.
No personal experience one way or the other, just my interpretation of the
quotes you've submitted.
Bob McC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer@charter.net>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2009 7:12 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Will other wiring interfere with Magnetometer?
<afulmer@charter.net>
>
> Rather than hijack the thread on interference with Bob Archer VOR antennas
I
> thought I would start a new thread on Magnetometer interference:
>
> My magnetometers will be on the end ribs of my RV7.
>
> GRT Magnetometer installation instructions read:
> -----------------------------------------------
> "The most important consideration when mounting the magnetometer is that
of
> choosing a location in the airplane that is away from magnetic
disturbances.
> It is quite amazing how sensitive the magnetometer is to these
disturbances,
> and how much error this can cause in the magnetic heading reported by the
> AHRS."
> and then:
> "... be sure to keep the magnetometer at least 12 inches away from any
> current carrying wires (such as navigation or landing light wires), and
more
> than 18 inches away from ferrous metal, such as the steel mass balance
tube
> that is typically used in the leading edge of ailerons."
> -----------------------------------------------
>
> On my RV7, I only put two conduits in the wings as I was building: one
near
> the trailing edge that runs parallel (and within 12 inches) to the aileron
> "steel mass balance tube" and the other just behind the spar. This
forward
> run was originally going to carry all the wires to strobes, nav. lights,
> landing lights, and coax to Bob Archer VOR antenna.
>
> I guess I could run all the electrical stuff in the rear conduit and the
> magnetometer wires in the forward one.
>
> Opinion Bob? Other's experience?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Allen Fulmer
> RV7 wiring
> Alexander City, AL
>
>
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