Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:57 AM - Re: System recommendations (Leo Holler)
2. 05:52 AM - Re: Multiple coax in same conduit (rampil)
3. 07:13 AM - Re: System recommendations (jetech)
4. 08:01 AM - Re: D-Sub connectors (Dave Leikam)
5. 08:50 AM - Re: D-Sub connectors (ROGER & JEAN CURTIS)
6. 06:25 PM - Re: D-Sub connectors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 06:28 PM - Re: Multiple coax in same conduit (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 06:28 PM - Re: D-Sub connectors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 06:30 PM - Re: D-Sub connectors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 09:56 PM - Re: D-Sub connectors (Etienne Phillips)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: System recommendations |
Am in the middle of a redesign/rewire (Z-11) for a PA-22/20.
After di-secting the old push button starter, I decided I'd never want it as part
of my circuitry again. The PA-22 (mine, anyway) did not have a starter contactor,
so contact was only as fast as my finger could close the gap. The degraded
condition of the contacts suggested that wasn't fast enough. Adding that problem
to the problematic long length of the cable from the bottom right seat
area to the starter button and then on to the starter and I finally knew why my
starter never exibited any signs of glee when I mashed the button.
I had already planned to replace the old starter button with a starter contactor
(available reasonably at B&C or elsewhere) and a small dash mounted button.
For the money, I'd recommend that change to you as well and for sure consider
what Bob has suggested about the old battery. My old style is going away and will
be replaced with a new any position battery; it will be located in the left
boot cowl area with access via a door on the boot cowl. Am still in the design
stage for the mount. Good luck on your changes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224008#224008
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Multiple coax in same conduit |
yes!
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224020#224020
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: System recommendations |
Hi Leo
I haven't looked at the PTS button yet but I will now. We have a keyed switch but
it is kind of nice to have the button under the seat, most people can't figure
out how to start it.
Good luck with your battery relocation.
Do you have the stock starter, if so have you looked at a Sky-tec starter yet?
A big improvement.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224030#224030
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: D-Sub connectors |
Can't small nuts be installed between the two screws similar to the
connectors on the back of a computer to connect the monitor cable?
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Holyoke
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 12:30 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: D-Sub connectors
If we're talking about mating two D-sub connectors together, I just
push 'em together and use a couple of small zip ties through the screw
holes to keep them from separating. This after not installing the thumb
screws in the hoods or even if I just covered the connectors with heat
shrink instead of using hoods.
I suppose that if you're worried about hoods falling off the D-sub
(which I've never seen happen), you could replace the screws with zip
ties though the screw holes and around the hood.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US wrote:
I think I remember reading that some use an addition to the screws
to hold together D-Sub connectors?
Is ther additional security that is recommended?
Ron Parigoris
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.
matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
Message 5
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| Subject: | D-Sub connectors |
Can't small nuts be installed between the two screws similar
to the connectors on the back of a computer to connect the monitor
cable?
Yes! Just one more way of holding them together. All
depends on application and preference!
Roger
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Holyoke <mailto:bicyclop@pacbell.net>
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 12:30 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: D-Sub connectors
If we're talking about mating two D-sub connectors together,
I just push 'em together and use a couple of small zip ties through the
screw holes to keep them from separating. This after not installing the
thumb screws in the hoods or even if I just covered the connectors with
heat
shrink instead of using hoods.
I suppose that if you're worried about hoods falling off the
D-sub (which I've never seen happen), you could replace the screws with
zip
ties though the screw holes and around the hood.
Pax,
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: D-Sub connectors |
At 07:19 PM 1/10/2009, you wrote:
>I have another D-Sub question... are the pin types with the u shaped
>cross section for crimping the wire and another section for crimping
>the wire ok to use - or is the solid pin type the norm?
>Thanks
>Chris Lucas
>RV-10
The sheet metal pins are very widely used throughout
the electronics industry but are tricky to put on with
consistency using el-cheeso hand-tools. Further, they're
not the same grade of interconnect as the mil-spec style.
I quit using the sheet metal pins here years ago
and I recommend their use.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Multiple coax in same conduit |
At 08:30 PM 1/10/2009, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
>Is it okay to run two or more coax in same plastic conduit?
>
>Thanks,
Sure. No problem.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: D-Sub connectors |
At 12:07 PM 1/10/2009, you wrote:
>I had two D-sub shells fall apart on me. I had purchased these from B&C.
>
>I had used the self-fusing silicone tape at the outlet and this
>required over tightening the screws to get the two sides to come
>together. Days later the plastic, under the screw heads, failed and
>two connectors fell apart.
>
>My fix will be to reduce the number of turns of fusing tape and to
>be careful not to over tighten (what ever that is) the screws.
The strain relief wraps of tape should be just snug
in the backshell opening as you've discovered.
An exemplar installation is illustrated on page
2 of this work instruction.
http://aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9051/9051-700A.pdf
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: D-Sub connectors |
At 12:30 AM 1/11/2009, you wrote:
>If we're talking about mating two D-sub connectors together, I just
>push 'em together and use a couple of small zip ties through the
>screw holes to keep them from separating. This after not installing
>the thumb screws in the hoods or even if I just covered the
>connectors with heat shrink instead of using hoods.
That works. I've also used a figure-8 wrap of
safety wire or flat lace to bind the the two
connectors together in lieu of jackscrews.
>I suppose that if you're worried about hoods falling off the D-sub
>(which I've never seen happen), you could replace the screws with
>zip ties though the screw holes and around the hood.
This was a case of over-stressing the hood material
because the wire-support wrap was too fat.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: D-Sub connectors |
On 12 Jan 2009, at 4:21 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> At 07:19 PM 1/10/2009, you wrote:
>> I have another D-Sub question... are the pin types with the u
>> shaped cross section for crimping the wire and another section for
>> crimping the wire ok to use - or is the solid pin type the norm?
>> Thanks
>> Chris Lucas
>> RV-10
>
> The sheet metal pins are very widely used throughout
> the electronics industry but are tricky to put on with
> consistency using el-cheeso hand-tools. Further, they're
> not the same grade of interconnect as the mil-spec style.
> I quit using the sheet metal pins here years ago
> and I recommend their use.
>
> Bob . . .
>
I used the cheap stuff for my wiring project, due to the extra cost
and time it would have taken to get hold of the machined pins (living
on the dark continent puts access to anything but the cheap stuff on
the other side of the planet, on the other side of a very large
shipping fee, and on the other side of a very bad exchange rate).
They're not critical to the correct operation of my electrical
system, so continued to hack my way through. Many broken pins,
snapped wires and sockets with stuck pins later, I finished and got
everything working. But when time allows, I'm going to redo it all
(using the CORRECT equipment and parts), because although it works
for now, I don't think it'll last more than a couple of years in the
high-vibration environment.
Another frustration I had was once everything was crimped and all the
pins were pushed into the sockets, the damned things wouldn't fit
together! There is so much play within the support for the female
pins, that it allows them to move out of alignment with their male
counterparts.
So don't waste your time and effort, do it right first time. The
frustration of getting a crimp right using cheap tools and parts
alone is enough to cover the outlay for the good stuff!
Etienne
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