Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:00 AM - Strobe Lights (Ianrat)
2. 06:23 AM - Re: Bob Nuckolls's Z-14 with dual Lightspeed iii and SD-8 ()
3. 07:01 AM - Re: Bob Nuckolls's Z-14 with dual Lightspeed iii and SD-8 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 07:19 AM - Re: Attaching D-sub shells (SteinAir, Inc.)
5. 08:41 AM - Fat Wire Terminals ()
6. 09:32 AM - Re: Fat Wire Terminals (Ernest Christley)
7. 09:32 AM - Re: Strobe Lights (Christopher Kleman)
8. 10:26 AM - Re: Bob Nuckolls's Z-14 with dual Lightspeed iii and SD-8 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 10:36 AM - Re: Fat Wire Terminals (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 10:37 AM - Re: Fat Wire Terminals (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 11:13 AM - Re: Bob Nuckolls's Z-14 with dual Lightspeed iii and SD-8 (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
12. 11:21 AM - Re: Fat Wire Terminals (Matt Dralle)
13. 12:06 PM - Re: Fat Wire Terminals (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 01:07 PM - Re: Fat Wire Terminals (Ernest Christley)
15. 01:38 PM - Joining many wires to one - rocker switch lights to dimmer (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
16. 05:02 PM - Re: Joining many wires to one - rocker switch lights to dimmer (Charlie England)
17. 05:34 PM - Attaching D-Sub Connectors (Dennis Johnson)
18. 05:56 PM - Re: Joining many wires to one - rocker switch lights to dimmer (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 06:04 PM - Re: Fat Wire Terminals (MLWynn@aol.com)
20. 09:11 PM - Headset jack wire runs (Dave Leikam)
21. 10:08 PM - Re: Fat Wire Terminals (Jon Finley)
Message 1
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Apart from AveoEngineering & Aeroled is there any other wing flashers on the market.
I only need strobes no navigation lights.
Or are there any details on how to make my own.
Thank you
Ianrat
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=226830#226830
Message 2
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Subject: | Bob Nuckolls's Z-14 with dual Lightspeed iii and |
SD-8
Rob,
I am installing the same dual plasma III in my Lancair. I am however
using Z-13/8 with one battery instead of two. I have yet to hear a good
argument as to why two batteries are better than two alternators. LS
does recommend a 4.5 amp battery behind a Schottky diode which I may
consider paralleling with the main at some time. The diode is about
$2.00 and the battery about $35. This is an easier/lower cost solution
than fussing with all the extras on Z14.
I also found the answer to the constant whining of pilots over fuse
blocks and cb's - use both :) You can tell Klaus's lawyers you had them
tied to cb's. If you use the below with the Bussman panel, you now have
the best of both worlds.
See...
https://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?SKU=6770385
Your shunt should be rated in conjunction with the alternator. No more,
no less. Use the ANL to drop amperage if desired and size the wire in
front and behind it accordingly. Think of the ANL as a step down
transformer, not the shunt.
You can install whatever battery/alt you choose. Z14 was designed as a
purely redundant system rather than an economical fly to safety system
like Z13/8.
I'm not sure if they sell handi-capped switch for folks that can't reach
the panel from their seat to start the engine, but there's no reason you
couldn't do a relay for the starter switch and even a remote starter if
you have FADEC. For me, I'd rather just lean over, push button - go. $20
and 15 minutes to install a starter button. If you're really lazy you
could wire one of those remotes to open the hanger door, turn on the
lights and start the coffee in the hangar before you get up the hill.
All from the stick.
You need to protect your avionics equipment per the manufacturer
recommendation. I think GRT's are about 3 amps. Remember, you are
protecting the wire in front of the device as well as the devices. If
you are pushing 20A through a wire rated for 3A on your GRT, you've got
something backwards. Remember, step it down before you deliver. Don't
introduce parts and complexity with relay's unless you really need them.
Half of the stuff in my panel is pulling less than 3 amps, even the
strobe lights.
Life is easy, keep it simple. You don't need 3 batteries to be safe. You
do need to give lots of TLC to the one or two batteries you do have and
change them regularly. Don't wait for problems to arise before deciding
you should beef up your system to overcome poor maintenance on your
part.
Most importantly, have fun. Yours sounds like a great system. Let's race
someday. I've got the Aerosport IO-375, Plasma III.
Glenn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob
du Plooy
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 3:13 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Bob Nuckolls's Z-14 with dual Lightspeed iii
and SD-8
<rduplooy@iafrica.com>
Busy building an RV-8 with dual LS Plasma III (crank sensor) and would
appreciate some input on Z 14 changes required for my set-up.
Engine drives a B & C 60 Amp main Alt, and a SD-8 as back-up .
I wish to install 2 x 17aH batteries as per Bob's drawings and I would
like
to know whether:-
1) the 2 shunts depicted on Z14 need to be changed to 50mv/60A and
..50mv/10A.?.
2) Klaus Savier recommends 2 x 5A "pull-able" C.B.s....Could I
substitute
these for fuses of 5A each?
3) Could these be placed as per Z14 , #1 on the Main Batt bus and on Aux
Batt. the other?
4) Any other changes I should contemplate, as I would like the engine
to
start only from the grip of my Infinity stick.
5) I am also installing a GRT HX & EIS 4000..any caveats/advice on any
additional systems/relays required on Z14 for these, or those below??
Many Thanks.
Robert
Bob Archer VOR antenna in wingtip.
AeroSUN Lites ( Leading edge lights)
Gretz heated Pitot
Sport AoA
Trutrak IIVSVG
Whelen Nav/Strobes
Christen Inverted Oil System( on Firewall)
Smoking Airplanes smoke-3.5.Gall( either fwd or rear baggage)
Sky Dynamics cold air and 4-into-1 exhaust
MT 3 blade C/W Acro Prop
Performanceengines O-360,balanced,flowed with 10:1.
On second thoughts, maybe I need 3 batteries?
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Bob Nuckolls's Z-14 with dual Lightspeed iii |
and SD-8
At 02:12 PM 1/25/2009, you wrote:
>
>Busy building an RV-8 with dual LS Plasma III (crank sensor) and
>would appreciate some input on Z 14 changes required for my set-up.
>
>Engine drives a B & C 60 Amp main Alt, and a SD-8 as back-up .
Don't recommend Z-14 for this combination of altenrators.
Suggest you consider Z-13/8
>I wish to install 2 x 17aH batteries as per Bob's drawings and I
>would like to know whether:-
>1) the 2 shunts depicted on Z14 need to be changed to 50mv/60A and
>..50mv/10A.?.
The shunts should match their respective alternator ratings.
>2) Klaus Savier recommends 2 x 5A "pull-able" C.B.s....Could I
>substitute these for fuses of 5A each?
It's your airplane. 5A fuses on battery busses is a
perfectly
>3) Could these be placed as per Z14 , #1 on the Main Batt bus and on
>Aux Batt. the other?
It's my recommendation that accessories for electrically
dependent engines be powered from a battery bus.
>4) Any other changes I should contemplate, as I would like the
>engine to start only from the grip of my Infinity stick.
Are you planning on some means by which the starter
button becomes disabled for flight?
>5) I am also installing a GRT HX & EIS 4000..any caveats/advice on
>any additional systems/relays required on Z14 for these, or those below??
Z-13/8 will offer overall system reliability that
would exceed the contemporary single-engine airplane
by at least an order of magnitude.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 4
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Subject: | Attaching D-sub shells |
We also have the gender changers in stock...I'll try to get them on the
website asap for ya'll. Those allows the Dsubs to be connected.
Cheers,
Stein
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Byron
Janzen
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 8:50 PM
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Attaching D-sub shells
They have shells for sale here:
http://www.steinair.com/connectors.htm
On Sun, Jan 25, 2009 at 2:39 PM, Sam Hoskins <sam.hoskins@gmail.com>
wrote:
Is there some way to connect D-sub connectors to each other? The
connector itself is fine, but I can't find the female (I guess that is what
you call it) version of the backshells. I was thinking of joining the two
with self fusing tape, but there must be a better way.
Thanks.
Sam Hoskins
Murphysboro, IL
www.samhoskins.blogspot.com
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 5
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Subject: | Fat Wire Terminals |
I was out soldering fat wire terminals in the hangar yesterday. There I
was with Bob's directions performing the duty as described. I poked the
little 14 ga points in to fill the gaps and started adding in the solder
- beautiful job, it oozed out the other end with a completely uniform
ring of solder around the back edge of the terminal. Ok, nothing to do
but add the shrink wrap - oops, here comes another pilot - certain
trouble. Hey buddy, you know that solder is really good stuff, but you
should crimp the terminal "after" you solder it.
What do you guys think? To me that would simply damage the solder job
and add little value to the actual security of the wire.
Glenn
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Fat Wire Terminals |
longg@pjm.com wrote:
>
> Hey buddy, you know that solder is really good stuff, but you should
> crimp the terminal after you solder it.
>
The point of crimping is to squash a bunch of pieces of copper into one
airtight lump of copper. The point of soldering is to fill the voids of
a bunch of pieces of copper with a lead/tin mixture. What would be the
point of squashing after everything is already airtight?
I think this is one where you smile, say "Really? I might try it that
way next time.", and let the guy walk away. You might ask him about the
purpose behind the separate processes; but, that might lead to an
argument, which cuts into build time. Gotta protect your build time.
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Strobe Lights |
That's a good question, and I'd like to piggyback that with another question/possible
solution.
After looking into the pricing of the nav/strobe lights, I was wondering possible
solutions for them pricey buggers, especially since I plan to have them enclosed
in a plexiglass lens built into the wing tips. There seems to be two simple
solutions, however I'm not sure how much of a stickler they might be on the
inspection since it's "not an aviation approved part".
Nav Lights: http://www.attwoodmarine.com/products/parts.asp?productid=1004&path=navlights&category=3>ype=1&group=3&subgroup=0&categoryname=Navigation+Lighting&typename=Sidelight&headername=Navigation+Lighting
Strobe Lights: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220326016266&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem
Now with the strobes you would of course need an enclosure of some sorts in your
case.. The strobe itself could be screwed to the wing tip with it's 2 provided
holes, and I'm sure an enclosure could be thought up or modified (perhaps
by just buying the lens assembly for an aircraft strobe?). However, in the case
of putting one in the wingtip under a plexiglass lens what are peoples suggestions?
Does the glass lens have any sort of amplifying qualities?
And what are people thoughts on the red/green sidelights? They almost look like
they're made for aviation at least...
Thanks
--
Christopher Kleman
Mustang-II #2397 Plans Building
http://www.mustangaero.com/
---- Ianrat <ianrat@powerup.com.au> wrote:
============
Apart from AveoEngineering & Aeroled is there any other wing flashers on the market.
I only need strobes no navigation lights.
Or are there any details on how to make my own.
Thank you
Ianrat
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=226830#226830
Message 8
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Subject: | Bob Nuckolls's Z-14 with dual Lightspeed iii |
and SD-8
At 08:20 AM 1/26/2009, you wrote:
>
>Rob,
>
>I am installing the same dual plasma III in my Lancair. I am however
>using Z-13/8 with one battery instead of two. I have yet to hear a good
>argument as to why two batteries are better than two alternators. LS
>does recommend a 4.5 amp battery behind a Schottky diode which I may
>consider paralleling with the main at some time. The diode is about
>$2.00 and the battery about $35. This is an easier/lower cost solution
>than fussing with all the extras on Z14.
>
>I also found the answer to the constant whining of pilots over fuse
>blocks and cb's - use both :) You can tell Klaus's lawyers you had them
>tied to cb's. If you use the below with the Bussman panel, you now have
>the best of both worlds.
>
>See...
>
>https://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?SKU=6770385
These are pretty cheesy breakers. They're
also more massive than the fuses they replace which
degrades longevity of the gas-tight grip on the
connection tabs. I do not recommend their use.
>Your shunt should be rated in conjunction with the alternator. No more,
>no less. Use the ANL to drop amperage if desired and size the wire in
>front and behind it accordingly. Think of the ANL as a step down
>transformer, not the shunt.
??? The ANL is an exceedingly robust fuse . . . so
robust that they call them "current limiters". What's
NOT readily apparent in their marked ratings is just
how robust they are. See:
http://aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Fuses_and_Current_Limiters/Bussman/ANL_Specs.pdf
Note that a 35A rated ANL will carry 80A continuously
at room temperature. A 60A rated device will sniff
at about 160A continuous. Note further that a fault
current of 250A opens both devices in 250 mS or less.
The fault for which we use current limiters is the
HARD fault that will load a BATTERY to hundreds if
not 1000+ amps.
To depend on the ANL for any other fault condition
is to ignore the design goals that controlled its
design.
>You can install whatever battery/alt you choose. Z14 was designed as a
>purely redundant system rather than an economical fly to safety system
>like Z13/8.
Correct. I suspect that less than 1% of OBAM aircraft
flying can justify Z-14. Sadly, I suspect that way
too many builders have installed Z-14 style systems
with some notion that it adds to safety. This simply
isn't so. Unless you spend a SIGNIFICANT percentage
of your flight time pushing into the corners of pilot,
aircraft and weather combinations . . . Z-14 only
adds unjustifiable weight, cost, complexity and higher
maintenance $time$ to an airplane that simply doesn't
need it.
>I'm not sure if they sell handi-capped switch for folks that can't reach
>the panel from their seat to start the engine, but there's no reason you
>couldn't do a relay for the starter switch and even a remote starter if
>you have FADEC. For me, I'd rather just lean over, push button - go. $20
>and 15 minutes to install a starter button. If you're really lazy you
>could wire one of those remotes to open the hanger door, turn on the
>lights and start the coffee in the hangar before you get up the hill.
>All from the stick.
Agreed. Starting the engine is a few seconds per flight
cycle, even fewer seconds per flight hour. "Convenience"
added at the expense of increased parts count only improves
on the probability of having to fix some crapped-out
convenience component without adding to the utility/
enjoyment of flying the airplane.
>You need to protect your avionics equipment per the manufacturer
>recommendation. I think GRT's are about 3 amps. Remember, you are
>protecting the wire in front of the device as well as the devices. If
>you are pushing 20A through a wire rated for 3A on your GRT, you've got
>something backwards. Remember, step it down before you deliver. Don't
>introduce parts and complexity with relay's unless you really need them.
>Half of the stuff in my panel is pulling less than 3 amps, even the
>strobe lights.
Agreed. When we're considering the design goals for
a TC system, the first rule is MEET ALL PERFORMANCE
GOALS consistent with MINIMIZED WEIGHT, VOLUME, and
PARTS COUNT. The latter three criteria generally go
hand-in-hand with MINIMIZED COST OF OWNERSHIP.
>Life is easy, keep it simple. You don't need 3 batteries to be safe. You
>do need to give lots of TLC to the one or two batteries you do have and
>change them regularly. Don't wait for problems to arise before deciding
>you should beef up your system to overcome poor maintenance on your
>part.
Exactly! EVERY flight plagued with a tense if not
unhappy outcome happens for some combination of three
reasons: (1) Lack of understanding that gives rise to (2) poor
selection/attainment of design goals and/or (3) failure
to maintain performance consistent with those goals.
If you don't understand what you're doing and why you're
doing it, then "adding more goodies for the purpose of
adding safety" is at best a tax on cost of ownership;
at worst a sad disappointment. The simplest, lightest,
easiest to understand flight system with well considered
Plan-A/Plan-B and maintenance will never be root cause
of a bad termination of flight.
Very few TC aircraft are blessed with such attention
to detail for reasons that are clear. As both designer,
builder, owner and operator of your OBAM aircraft, you're
offered an opportunity that exceedingly few of our
Spam-Can flying brothers will enjoy.
But if it were easy, everybody would be doing it.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Fat Wire Terminals |
At 10:38 AM 1/26/2009, you wrote:
>I was out soldering fat wire terminals in the
>hangar yesterday. There I was with Bobs
>directions performing the duty as described. I
>poked the little 14 ga points in to fill the
>gaps and started adding in the solder
>beautiful job, it oozed out the other end with a
>completely uniform ring of solder around the
>back edge of the terminal. Ok, nothing to do but
>add the shrink wrap oops, here comes another
>pilot certain trouble. Hey buddy, you know
>that solder is really good stuff, but you should
>crimp the terminal after you solder it.
>
>
>What do you guys think? To me that would simply
>damage the solder job and add little value to the actual security of the wire.
Skilled soldering or well designed crimps are
interchangeable in terms of reliability. They
differ only in skill sets, tools and materials
to do the job. Doing both only goes against the
design goals both and runs a risk of degrading
what WAS a perfectly good joint.
Rather than going to the List to take a vote,
why not show the visitor the article and then
as him to make the author's day and show him
where he screwed up?
An too common response to contrary opinions
in our culture is to throw it out to "all
the folks" with some notion that a majority of
common belief is the path to golden information.
It's far better than these things be first argued
by individuals with an understanding of the simple-ideas
that support the technology or process being
discussed. It's almost never useful to debate
such things by participants at large in open forums.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
-----------------------------------------
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Subject: | Re: Fat Wire Terminals |
At 11:29 AM 1/26/2009, you wrote:
><echristley@nc.rr.com>
<snip>
>I think this is one where you smile, say "Really? I might try it
>that way next time.", and let the guy walk away. You might ask him
>about the purpose behind the separate processes; but, that might
>lead to an argument, which cuts into build time. Gotta protect your build time.
Right on! Better yet, sic'em onto me. It's
MY job to field these issues so you guys can
make better use of your $time$ doing a good
job.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 11
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Subject: | Bob Nuckolls's Z-14 with dual Lightspeed iii |
and SD-8
He he..I had to chuckle reading this..i have a completely electrically dependant
(electric Fuel pumps, EI's, electronic instruments) RV7a that I fly in IMC with
some regularity.
With the little SD8 alt waiting to go a flick of a switch should I ever need it..And
yes it was tested with a fuel pump, transponder and a 430W running and by
gosh that little SD8 keeps the batt volts up just over 12v as long as I don't
use the PTT.
(The AI has its own internal battery)
So the other day I'm playing safety pilot to a guy in a 172 and we go into hard
IMC..I have never felt more nervous in my life as I remember the 1930's Ford
alternator and that dreadful Vacuum pump thingy upfront..For once I was actually
glad of the mechanical fuel pump even though my IO360 doesn't have one.
Keep it simple and try to remember what your supposed to do when the alternator
lets its smoke out....Easier said than done with today's high reliability electrics.
Frank
If you don't understand what you're doing and why you're
doing it, then "adding more goodies for the purpose of
adding safety" is at best a tax on cost of ownership;
at worst a sad disappointment. The simplest, lightest,
easiest to understand flight system with well considered
Plan-A/Plan-B and maintenance will never be root cause
of a bad termination of flight.
Very few TC aircraft are blessed with such attention
to detail for reasons that are clear. As both designer,
builder, owner and operator of your OBAM aircraft, you're
offered an opportunity that exceedingly few of our
Spam-Can flying brothers will enjoy.
But if it were easy, everybody would be doing it.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Fat Wire Terminals |
At 10:34 AM 1/26/2009 Monday, you wrote:
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
>At 10:38 AM 1/26/2009, you wrote:
>>I was out soldering fat wire terminals in the hangar yesterday. There I
was with Bob=92s directions performing the duty as described. I poked the
little 14 ga points in to fill the gaps and started adding in the solder
=AD beautiful job, it oozed out the other end with a completely uniform ring
of solder around the back edge of the terminal. Ok, nothing to do but add
the shrink wrap =AD oops, here comes another pilot =AD certain trouble. Hey
buddy, you know that solder is really good stuff, but you should crimp the
terminal =93after=94 you solder it.
>>
>>
>>What do you guys think? To me that would simply damage the solder job and
add little value to the actual security of the wire.
>
> Skilled soldering or well designed crimps are
> interchangeable in terms of reliability. They
> differ only in skill sets, tools and materials
> to do the job. Doing both only goes against the
> design goals both and runs a risk of degrading
> what WAS a perfectly good joint.
It would seem that crimping *after* soldering is a sure way to ruin a good
termination. However, adding a small dab of well wetted solder to the
*lug* end of the terminal after crimping seems like a good
belt-n-suspenders approach to me. What do you think of this technique,
Bob?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880/N998RV (res)
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Fat Wire Terminals |
At 01:20 PM 1/26/2009, you wrote:
>At 10:34 AM 1/26/2009 Monday, you wrote:
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
<snip>
>It would seem that crimping *after* soldering is a sure way to ruin
>a good termination. However, adding a small dab of well wetted
>solder to the *lug* end of the terminal after crimping seems like a
>good belt-n-suspenders approach to me. What do you think of this
>technique, Bob?
What you've shown us certainly doesn't hurt
as long as you don't get solder on the washer-
surface of the terminal and make it "un-flat".
But I cannot offer that it adds anything
useful.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Fat Wire Terminals |
Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> It would seem that crimping *after* soldering is a sure way to ruin a good termination.
However, adding a small dab of well wetted solder to the *lug* end
of the terminal after crimping seems like a good belt-n-suspenders approach to
me. What do you think of this technique, Bob?
>
Matt, I don't want to scare you, but you do know that the weavers of
certain south-western native american tribes would purposely make a
mistake in the weave. The belief was that if you did something perfect,
it would be an indication that you were ready to join the gods. You
might want to be careful there.
Message 15
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Subject: | Joining many wires to one - rocker switch lights to |
dimmer
Can anyone offer some advice on how to connect the leads for my 8 or 9
Honeywell rockers to a single periheliondesign dimmer?
The switches all have Fast-on terminals which I can easily connect to.
But I'm a bit stumped on the best way to have 8 or 9 separate leads
connected together and finally connected to a dimmer.
I've been through most/all of Bob's stuff but just can't find the right
approach.
Thanks
Bill "wiring away" Watson
RV10
Durham NC
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Joining many wires to one - rocker switch lights |
to dimmer
Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> Can anyone offer some advice on how to connect the leads for my 8 or 9
> Honeywell rockers to a single periheliondesign dimmer?
>
> The switches all have Fast-on terminals which I can easily connect
> to. But I'm a bit stumped on the best way to have 8 or 9 separate
> leads connected together and finally connected to a dimmer.
>
> I've been through most/all of Bob's stuff but just can't find the
> right approach.
>
> Thanks
> Bill "wiring away" Watson
> RV10
> Durham NC
The simplest way is to run all the leads to a convenient location
(toward the dimmer would make sense) and add one more wire to the
bundle. Use a large splice crimp to join them all, then run the 'extra'
wire to the dimmer. You can modify this idea slightly by doing it in 2
or 3 stages with just a few wires in each splice, then sum the 'extras'
with one more to the dimmer.
Bob details a similar technique to get power into multiple pins of a
d-sub connector when more current is needed than one pin can carry.
Charlie
Message 17
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Subject: | Attaching D-Sub Connectors |
Hi,
These are like the D-Sub connectors I used, which have a threaded
portion that the screw of the mating connector threads into, holding
them tightly together:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=4115M-
ND
The threaded barrel is .250" long and is on the mating side of the
connector. You need a threaded barrel on either the male or the female
half of the connector, but not both.
Best,
Dennis
Lancair Legacy, 250 hours
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Joining many wires to one - rocker switch lights |
to dimmer
At 03:31 PM 1/26/2009, you wrote:
><MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
>Can anyone offer some advice on how to connect the leads for my 8 or
>9 Honeywell rockers to a single periheliondesign dimmer?
>
>The switches all have Fast-on terminals which I can easily connect to.
>But I'm a bit stumped on the best way to have 8 or 9 separate leads
>connected together and finally connected to a dimmer.
>
>I've been through most/all of Bob's stuff but just can't find the
>right approach.
Here's one of several solutions for bringing multiple
lighting leads and their ground into an orderly joining:
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Wiring_Technique/minibus.jpg
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Wiring_Technique/Minibus1.jpg
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Wiring_Technique/Minibus2.jpg
Alternatively, it's perfectly valid to lap multiple strands
of wires and fixture them for soldering with a single strand
of fine copper. Make the solder joint and then cover with
heat shrink.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/PM_Solder_Sleeve/PM_Solder_Sleeve.html
Finally, if the wires are small (22AWG or smaller) you can
consider sticking multiple strands of wire into each end of
a butt-splice. Note that a blue spice will easily accommodate
three 20AWG wires, I suspect you can get 5-6 in each end.
This allows you to bring 10-12 wires together in a common,
well connected junction.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/multiplewires/multiplewires.html
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/3x20Blue.jpg
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/PIDG-Splices.jpg
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Fat Wire Terminals |
So, while on the subject,
I also read Bob's article on soldering those terminals. I ordered a bunch
of terminals from B & C and also bought their hammer-crimper. Wasn't sure
whether I wanted to crimp or solder. The terminals came and had so much space
in them that I wasn't sure I could fill in with a reasonable amount of
additional copper wire. There was probably 1/8 th inch extra besides the #4 wire.
I spoke with Bill at B&C. Heck of a nice guy. He double checked and thought
the terminals were correct. I ended up using their crimper instead of
soldering. Got a very tight crimp that I could not pull apart. I am not sure
if
it is air tight and was scratching my head about adding solder. Overkill,
right?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8 FWF
San Ramon, CA
In a message dated 1/26/2009 10:39:18 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com writes:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
At 11:29 AM 1/26/2009, you wrote:
><echristley@nc.rr.com>
<snip>
>I think this is one where you smile, say "Really? I might try it
>that way next time.", and let the guy walk away. You might ask him
>about the purpose behind the separate processes; but, that might
>lead to an argument, which cuts into build time. Gotta protect your build
time.
Right on! Better yet, sic'em onto me. It's
MY job to field these issues so you guys can
make better use of your $time$ doing a good
job.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
cemailfooterNO62)
Message 20
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Subject: | Headset jack wire runs |
Would three conductor shielded strobe wire work well for headset jack
wire runs?
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
Message 21
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Subject: | Fat Wire Terminals |
Well said Bob. I sure wish this was more widely understood (on a very wide
scale - not just aviation).
Jon
DO NOT ARCHIVE
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
<snip>
An too common response to contrary opinions
in our culture is to throw it out to "all
the folks" with some notion that a majority of
common belief is the path to golden information.
It's far better than these things be first argued
by individuals with an understanding of the simple-ideas
that support the technology or process being
discussed. It's almost never useful to debate
such things by participants at large in open forums.
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