---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 01/26/09: 21 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:00 AM - Strobe Lights (Ianrat) 2. 06:23 AM - Re: Bob Nuckolls's Z-14 with dual Lightspeed iii and SD-8 () 3. 07:01 AM - Re: Bob Nuckolls's Z-14 with dual Lightspeed iii and SD-8 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 4. 07:19 AM - Re: Attaching D-sub shells (SteinAir, Inc.) 5. 08:41 AM - Fat Wire Terminals () 6. 09:32 AM - Re: Fat Wire Terminals (Ernest Christley) 7. 09:32 AM - Re: Strobe Lights (Christopher Kleman) 8. 10:26 AM - Re: Bob Nuckolls's Z-14 with dual Lightspeed iii and SD-8 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 9. 10:36 AM - Re: Fat Wire Terminals (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 10. 10:37 AM - Re: Fat Wire Terminals (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 11. 11:13 AM - Re: Bob Nuckolls's Z-14 with dual Lightspeed iii and SD-8 (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)) 12. 11:21 AM - Re: Fat Wire Terminals (Matt Dralle) 13. 12:06 PM - Re: Fat Wire Terminals (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 14. 01:07 PM - Re: Fat Wire Terminals (Ernest Christley) 15. 01:38 PM - Joining many wires to one - rocker switch lights to dimmer (Bill Mauledriver Watson) 16. 05:02 PM - Re: Joining many wires to one - rocker switch lights to dimmer (Charlie England) 17. 05:34 PM - Attaching D-Sub Connectors (Dennis Johnson) 18. 05:56 PM - Re: Joining many wires to one - rocker switch lights to dimmer (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 19. 06:04 PM - Re: Fat Wire Terminals (MLWynn@aol.com) 20. 09:11 PM - Headset jack wire runs (Dave Leikam) 21. 10:08 PM - Re: Fat Wire Terminals (Jon Finley) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:00:04 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Strobe Lights From: "Ianrat" Apart from AveoEngineering & Aeroled is there any other wing flashers on the market. I only need strobes no navigation lights. Or are there any details on how to make my own. Thank you Ianrat Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=226830#226830 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:23:50 AM PST US Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Bob Nuckolls's Z-14 with dual Lightspeed iii and SD-8 From: Rob, I am installing the same dual plasma III in my Lancair. I am however using Z-13/8 with one battery instead of two. I have yet to hear a good argument as to why two batteries are better than two alternators. LS does recommend a 4.5 amp battery behind a Schottky diode which I may consider paralleling with the main at some time. The diode is about $2.00 and the battery about $35. This is an easier/lower cost solution than fussing with all the extras on Z14. I also found the answer to the constant whining of pilots over fuse blocks and cb's - use both :) You can tell Klaus's lawyers you had them tied to cb's. If you use the below with the Bussman panel, you now have the best of both worlds. See... https://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?SKU=6770385 Your shunt should be rated in conjunction with the alternator. No more, no less. Use the ANL to drop amperage if desired and size the wire in front and behind it accordingly. Think of the ANL as a step down transformer, not the shunt. You can install whatever battery/alt you choose. Z14 was designed as a purely redundant system rather than an economical fly to safety system like Z13/8. I'm not sure if they sell handi-capped switch for folks that can't reach the panel from their seat to start the engine, but there's no reason you couldn't do a relay for the starter switch and even a remote starter if you have FADEC. For me, I'd rather just lean over, push button - go. $20 and 15 minutes to install a starter button. If you're really lazy you could wire one of those remotes to open the hanger door, turn on the lights and start the coffee in the hangar before you get up the hill. All from the stick. You need to protect your avionics equipment per the manufacturer recommendation. I think GRT's are about 3 amps. Remember, you are protecting the wire in front of the device as well as the devices. If you are pushing 20A through a wire rated for 3A on your GRT, you've got something backwards. Remember, step it down before you deliver. Don't introduce parts and complexity with relay's unless you really need them. Half of the stuff in my panel is pulling less than 3 amps, even the strobe lights. Life is easy, keep it simple. You don't need 3 batteries to be safe. You do need to give lots of TLC to the one or two batteries you do have and change them regularly. Don't wait for problems to arise before deciding you should beef up your system to overcome poor maintenance on your part. Most importantly, have fun. Yours sounds like a great system. Let's race someday. I've got the Aerosport IO-375, Plasma III. Glenn -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob du Plooy Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 3:13 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Bob Nuckolls's Z-14 with dual Lightspeed iii and SD-8 Busy building an RV-8 with dual LS Plasma III (crank sensor) and would appreciate some input on Z 14 changes required for my set-up. Engine drives a B & C 60 Amp main Alt, and a SD-8 as back-up . I wish to install 2 x 17aH batteries as per Bob's drawings and I would like to know whether:- 1) the 2 shunts depicted on Z14 need to be changed to 50mv/60A and ..50mv/10A.?. 2) Klaus Savier recommends 2 x 5A "pull-able" C.B.s....Could I substitute these for fuses of 5A each? 3) Could these be placed as per Z14 , #1 on the Main Batt bus and on Aux Batt. the other? 4) Any other changes I should contemplate, as I would like the engine to start only from the grip of my Infinity stick. 5) I am also installing a GRT HX & EIS 4000..any caveats/advice on any additional systems/relays required on Z14 for these, or those below?? Many Thanks. Robert Bob Archer VOR antenna in wingtip. AeroSUN Lites ( Leading edge lights) Gretz heated Pitot Sport AoA Trutrak IIVSVG Whelen Nav/Strobes Christen Inverted Oil System( on Firewall) Smoking Airplanes smoke-3.5.Gall( either fwd or rear baggage) Sky Dynamics cold air and 4-into-1 exhaust MT 3 blade C/W Acro Prop Performanceengines O-360,balanced,flowed with 10:1. On second thoughts, maybe I need 3 batteries? ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:01:35 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Bob Nuckolls's Z-14 with dual Lightspeed iii and SD-8 At 02:12 PM 1/25/2009, you wrote: > >Busy building an RV-8 with dual LS Plasma III (crank sensor) and >would appreciate some input on Z 14 changes required for my set-up. > >Engine drives a B & C 60 Amp main Alt, and a SD-8 as back-up . Don't recommend Z-14 for this combination of altenrators. Suggest you consider Z-13/8 >I wish to install 2 x 17aH batteries as per Bob's drawings and I >would like to know whether:- >1) the 2 shunts depicted on Z14 need to be changed to 50mv/60A and >..50mv/10A.?. The shunts should match their respective alternator ratings. >2) Klaus Savier recommends 2 x 5A "pull-able" C.B.s....Could I >substitute these for fuses of 5A each? It's your airplane. 5A fuses on battery busses is a perfectly >3) Could these be placed as per Z14 , #1 on the Main Batt bus and on >Aux Batt. the other? It's my recommendation that accessories for electrically dependent engines be powered from a battery bus. >4) Any other changes I should contemplate, as I would like the >engine to start only from the grip of my Infinity stick. Are you planning on some means by which the starter button becomes disabled for flight? >5) I am also installing a GRT HX & EIS 4000..any caveats/advice on >any additional systems/relays required on Z14 for these, or those below?? Z-13/8 will offer overall system reliability that would exceed the contemporary single-engine airplane by at least an order of magnitude. Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ---------------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:19:04 AM PST US From: "SteinAir, Inc." Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Attaching D-sub shells We also have the gender changers in stock...I'll try to get them on the website asap for ya'll. Those allows the Dsubs to be connected. Cheers, Stein do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Byron Janzen Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 8:50 PM To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Attaching D-sub shells They have shells for sale here: http://www.steinair.com/connectors.htm On Sun, Jan 25, 2009 at 2:39 PM, Sam Hoskins wrote: Is there some way to connect D-sub connectors to each other? The connector itself is fine, but I can't find the female (I guess that is what you call it) version of the backshells. I was thinking of joining the two with self fusing tape, but there must be a better way. Thanks. Sam Hoskins Murphysboro, IL www.samhoskins.blogspot.com ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:41:02 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Fat Wire Terminals From: I was out soldering fat wire terminals in the hangar yesterday. There I was with Bob's directions performing the duty as described. I poked the little 14 ga points in to fill the gaps and started adding in the solder - beautiful job, it oozed out the other end with a completely uniform ring of solder around the back edge of the terminal. Ok, nothing to do but add the shrink wrap - oops, here comes another pilot - certain trouble. Hey buddy, you know that solder is really good stuff, but you should crimp the terminal "after" you solder it. What do you guys think? To me that would simply damage the solder job and add little value to the actual security of the wire. Glenn ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 09:32:17 AM PST US From: Ernest Christley Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Fat Wire Terminals longg@pjm.com wrote: > > Hey buddy, you know that solder is really good stuff, but you should > crimp the terminal after you solder it. > The point of crimping is to squash a bunch of pieces of copper into one airtight lump of copper. The point of soldering is to fill the voids of a bunch of pieces of copper with a lead/tin mixture. What would be the point of squashing after everything is already airtight? I think this is one where you smile, say "Really? I might try it that way next time.", and let the guy walk away. You might ask him about the purpose behind the separate processes; but, that might lead to an argument, which cuts into build time. Gotta protect your build time. ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 09:32:17 AM PST US From: Christopher Kleman Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Strobe Lights That's a good question, and I'd like to piggyback that with another question/possible solution. After looking into the pricing of the nav/strobe lights, I was wondering possible solutions for them pricey buggers, especially since I plan to have them enclosed in a plexiglass lens built into the wing tips. There seems to be two simple solutions, however I'm not sure how much of a stickler they might be on the inspection since it's "not an aviation approved part". Nav Lights: http://www.attwoodmarine.com/products/parts.asp?productid=1004&path=navlights&category=3>ype=1&group=3&subgroup=0&categoryname=Navigation+Lighting&typename=Sidelight&headername=Navigation+Lighting Strobe Lights: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220326016266&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem Now with the strobes you would of course need an enclosure of some sorts in your case.. The strobe itself could be screwed to the wing tip with it's 2 provided holes, and I'm sure an enclosure could be thought up or modified (perhaps by just buying the lens assembly for an aircraft strobe?). However, in the case of putting one in the wingtip under a plexiglass lens what are peoples suggestions? Does the glass lens have any sort of amplifying qualities? And what are people thoughts on the red/green sidelights? They almost look like they're made for aviation at least... Thanks -- Christopher Kleman Mustang-II #2397 Plans Building http://www.mustangaero.com/ ---- Ianrat wrote: ============ Apart from AveoEngineering & Aeroled is there any other wing flashers on the market. I only need strobes no navigation lights. Or are there any details on how to make my own. Thank you Ianrat Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=226830#226830 ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 10:26:39 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Bob Nuckolls's Z-14 with dual Lightspeed iii and SD-8 At 08:20 AM 1/26/2009, you wrote: > >Rob, > >I am installing the same dual plasma III in my Lancair. I am however >using Z-13/8 with one battery instead of two. I have yet to hear a good >argument as to why two batteries are better than two alternators. LS >does recommend a 4.5 amp battery behind a Schottky diode which I may >consider paralleling with the main at some time. The diode is about >$2.00 and the battery about $35. This is an easier/lower cost solution >than fussing with all the extras on Z14. > >I also found the answer to the constant whining of pilots over fuse >blocks and cb's - use both :) You can tell Klaus's lawyers you had them >tied to cb's. If you use the below with the Bussman panel, you now have >the best of both worlds. > >See... > >https://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?SKU=6770385 These are pretty cheesy breakers. They're also more massive than the fuses they replace which degrades longevity of the gas-tight grip on the connection tabs. I do not recommend their use. >Your shunt should be rated in conjunction with the alternator. No more, >no less. Use the ANL to drop amperage if desired and size the wire in >front and behind it accordingly. Think of the ANL as a step down >transformer, not the shunt. ??? The ANL is an exceedingly robust fuse . . . so robust that they call them "current limiters". What's NOT readily apparent in their marked ratings is just how robust they are. See: http://aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Fuses_and_Current_Limiters/Bussman/ANL_Specs.pdf Note that a 35A rated ANL will carry 80A continuously at room temperature. A 60A rated device will sniff at about 160A continuous. Note further that a fault current of 250A opens both devices in 250 mS or less. The fault for which we use current limiters is the HARD fault that will load a BATTERY to hundreds if not 1000+ amps. To depend on the ANL for any other fault condition is to ignore the design goals that controlled its design. >You can install whatever battery/alt you choose. Z14 was designed as a >purely redundant system rather than an economical fly to safety system >like Z13/8. Correct. I suspect that less than 1% of OBAM aircraft flying can justify Z-14. Sadly, I suspect that way too many builders have installed Z-14 style systems with some notion that it adds to safety. This simply isn't so. Unless you spend a SIGNIFICANT percentage of your flight time pushing into the corners of pilot, aircraft and weather combinations . . . Z-14 only adds unjustifiable weight, cost, complexity and higher maintenance $time$ to an airplane that simply doesn't need it. >I'm not sure if they sell handi-capped switch for folks that can't reach >the panel from their seat to start the engine, but there's no reason you >couldn't do a relay for the starter switch and even a remote starter if >you have FADEC. For me, I'd rather just lean over, push button - go. $20 >and 15 minutes to install a starter button. If you're really lazy you >could wire one of those remotes to open the hanger door, turn on the >lights and start the coffee in the hangar before you get up the hill. >All from the stick. Agreed. Starting the engine is a few seconds per flight cycle, even fewer seconds per flight hour. "Convenience" added at the expense of increased parts count only improves on the probability of having to fix some crapped-out convenience component without adding to the utility/ enjoyment of flying the airplane. >You need to protect your avionics equipment per the manufacturer >recommendation. I think GRT's are about 3 amps. Remember, you are >protecting the wire in front of the device as well as the devices. If >you are pushing 20A through a wire rated for 3A on your GRT, you've got >something backwards. Remember, step it down before you deliver. Don't >introduce parts and complexity with relay's unless you really need them. >Half of the stuff in my panel is pulling less than 3 amps, even the >strobe lights. Agreed. When we're considering the design goals for a TC system, the first rule is MEET ALL PERFORMANCE GOALS consistent with MINIMIZED WEIGHT, VOLUME, and PARTS COUNT. The latter three criteria generally go hand-in-hand with MINIMIZED COST OF OWNERSHIP. >Life is easy, keep it simple. You don't need 3 batteries to be safe. You >do need to give lots of TLC to the one or two batteries you do have and >change them regularly. Don't wait for problems to arise before deciding >you should beef up your system to overcome poor maintenance on your >part. Exactly! EVERY flight plagued with a tense if not unhappy outcome happens for some combination of three reasons: (1) Lack of understanding that gives rise to (2) poor selection/attainment of design goals and/or (3) failure to maintain performance consistent with those goals. If you don't understand what you're doing and why you're doing it, then "adding more goodies for the purpose of adding safety" is at best a tax on cost of ownership; at worst a sad disappointment. The simplest, lightest, easiest to understand flight system with well considered Plan-A/Plan-B and maintenance will never be root cause of a bad termination of flight. Very few TC aircraft are blessed with such attention to detail for reasons that are clear. As both designer, builder, owner and operator of your OBAM aircraft, you're offered an opportunity that exceedingly few of our Spam-Can flying brothers will enjoy. But if it were easy, everybody would be doing it. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 10:36:49 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Fat Wire Terminals At 10:38 AM 1/26/2009, you wrote: >I was out soldering fat wire terminals in the >hangar yesterday. There I was with Bobs >directions performing the duty as described. I >poked the little 14 ga points in to fill the >gaps and started adding in the solder >beautiful job, it oozed out the other end with a >completely uniform ring of solder around the >back edge of the terminal. Ok, nothing to do but >add the shrink wrap oops, here comes another >pilot certain trouble. Hey buddy, you know >that solder is really good stuff, but you should >crimp the terminal after you solder it. > > >What do you guys think? To me that would simply >damage the solder job and add little value to the actual security of the wire. Skilled soldering or well designed crimps are interchangeable in terms of reliability. They differ only in skill sets, tools and materials to do the job. Doing both only goes against the design goals both and runs a risk of degrading what WAS a perfectly good joint. Rather than going to the List to take a vote, why not show the visitor the article and then as him to make the author's day and show him where he screwed up? An too common response to contrary opinions in our culture is to throw it out to "all the folks" with some notion that a majority of common belief is the path to golden information. It's far better than these things be first argued by individuals with an understanding of the simple-ideas that support the technology or process being discussed. It's almost never useful to debate such things by participants at large in open forums. Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ----------------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 10:37:08 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Fat Wire Terminals At 11:29 AM 1/26/2009, you wrote: > >I think this is one where you smile, say "Really? I might try it >that way next time.", and let the guy walk away. You might ask him >about the purpose behind the separate processes; but, that might >lead to an argument, which cuts into build time. Gotta protect your build time. Right on! Better yet, sic'em onto me. It's MY job to field these issues so you guys can make better use of your $time$ doing a good job. Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ---------------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 11:13:09 AM PST US From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Bob Nuckolls's Z-14 with dual Lightspeed iii and SD-8 He he..I had to chuckle reading this..i have a completely electrically dependant (electric Fuel pumps, EI's, electronic instruments) RV7a that I fly in IMC with some regularity. With the little SD8 alt waiting to go a flick of a switch should I ever need it..And yes it was tested with a fuel pump, transponder and a 430W running and by gosh that little SD8 keeps the batt volts up just over 12v as long as I don't use the PTT. (The AI has its own internal battery) So the other day I'm playing safety pilot to a guy in a 172 and we go into hard IMC..I have never felt more nervous in my life as I remember the 1930's Ford alternator and that dreadful Vacuum pump thingy upfront..For once I was actually glad of the mechanical fuel pump even though my IO360 doesn't have one. Keep it simple and try to remember what your supposed to do when the alternator lets its smoke out....Easier said than done with today's high reliability electrics. Frank If you don't understand what you're doing and why you're doing it, then "adding more goodies for the purpose of adding safety" is at best a tax on cost of ownership; at worst a sad disappointment. The simplest, lightest, easiest to understand flight system with well considered Plan-A/Plan-B and maintenance will never be root cause of a bad termination of flight. Very few TC aircraft are blessed with such attention to detail for reasons that are clear. As both designer, builder, owner and operator of your OBAM aircraft, you're offered an opportunity that exceedingly few of our Spam-Can flying brothers will enjoy. But if it were easy, everybody would be doing it. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 11:21:49 AM PST US From: Matt Dralle Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Fat Wire Terminals At 10:34 AM 1/26/2009 Monday, you wrote: > >At 10:38 AM 1/26/2009, you wrote: >>I was out soldering fat wire terminals in the hangar yesterday. There I was with Bob=92s directions performing the duty as described. I poked the little 14 ga points in to fill the gaps and started adding in the solder =AD beautiful job, it oozed out the other end with a completely uniform ring of solder around the back edge of the terminal. Ok, nothing to do but add the shrink wrap =AD oops, here comes another pilot =AD certain trouble. Hey buddy, you know that solder is really good stuff, but you should crimp the terminal =93after=94 you solder it. >> >> >>What do you guys think? To me that would simply damage the solder job and add little value to the actual security of the wire. > > Skilled soldering or well designed crimps are > interchangeable in terms of reliability. They > differ only in skill sets, tools and materials > to do the job. Doing both only goes against the > design goals both and runs a risk of degrading > what WAS a perfectly good joint. It would seem that crimping *after* soldering is a sure way to ruin a good termination. However, adding a small dab of well wetted solder to the *lug* end of the terminal after crimping seems like a good belt-n-suspenders approach to me. What do you think of this technique, Bob? Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880/N998RV (res) ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 12:06:52 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Fat Wire Terminals At 01:20 PM 1/26/2009, you wrote: >At 10:34 AM 1/26/2009 Monday, you wrote: > >It would seem that crimping *after* soldering is a sure way to ruin >a good termination. However, adding a small dab of well wetted >solder to the *lug* end of the terminal after crimping seems like a >good belt-n-suspenders approach to me. What do you think of this >technique, Bob? What you've shown us certainly doesn't hurt as long as you don't get solder on the washer- surface of the terminal and make it "un-flat". But I cannot offer that it adds anything useful. Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ---------------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 01:07:33 PM PST US From: Ernest Christley Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Fat Wire Terminals Matt Dralle wrote: > > It would seem that crimping *after* soldering is a sure way to ruin a good termination. However, adding a small dab of well wetted solder to the *lug* end of the terminal after crimping seems like a good belt-n-suspenders approach to me. What do you think of this technique, Bob? > Matt, I don't want to scare you, but you do know that the weavers of certain south-western native american tribes would purposely make a mistake in the weave. The belief was that if you did something perfect, it would be an indication that you were ready to join the gods. You might want to be careful there. ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 01:38:39 PM PST US From: Bill Mauledriver Watson Subject: AeroElectric-List: Joining many wires to one - rocker switch lights to dimmer Can anyone offer some advice on how to connect the leads for my 8 or 9 Honeywell rockers to a single periheliondesign dimmer? The switches all have Fast-on terminals which I can easily connect to. But I'm a bit stumped on the best way to have 8 or 9 separate leads connected together and finally connected to a dimmer. I've been through most/all of Bob's stuff but just can't find the right approach. Thanks Bill "wiring away" Watson RV10 Durham NC ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 05:02:27 PM PST US From: Charlie England Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Joining many wires to one - rocker switch lights to dimmer Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote: > > > Can anyone offer some advice on how to connect the leads for my 8 or 9 > Honeywell rockers to a single periheliondesign dimmer? > > The switches all have Fast-on terminals which I can easily connect > to. But I'm a bit stumped on the best way to have 8 or 9 separate > leads connected together and finally connected to a dimmer. > > I've been through most/all of Bob's stuff but just can't find the > right approach. > > Thanks > Bill "wiring away" Watson > RV10 > Durham NC The simplest way is to run all the leads to a convenient location (toward the dimmer would make sense) and add one more wire to the bundle. Use a large splice crimp to join them all, then run the 'extra' wire to the dimmer. You can modify this idea slightly by doing it in 2 or 3 stages with just a few wires in each splice, then sum the 'extras' with one more to the dimmer. Bob details a similar technique to get power into multiple pins of a d-sub connector when more current is needed than one pin can carry. Charlie ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 05:34:56 PM PST US From: "Dennis Johnson" Subject: AeroElectric-List: Attaching D-Sub Connectors Hi, These are like the D-Sub connectors I used, which have a threaded portion that the screw of the mating connector threads into, holding them tightly together: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=4115M- ND The threaded barrel is .250" long and is on the mating side of the connector. You need a threaded barrel on either the male or the female half of the connector, but not both. Best, Dennis Lancair Legacy, 250 hours ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 05:56:47 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Joining many wires to one - rocker switch lights to dimmer At 03:31 PM 1/26/2009, you wrote: > > >Can anyone offer some advice on how to connect the leads for my 8 or >9 Honeywell rockers to a single periheliondesign dimmer? > >The switches all have Fast-on terminals which I can easily connect to. >But I'm a bit stumped on the best way to have 8 or 9 separate leads >connected together and finally connected to a dimmer. > >I've been through most/all of Bob's stuff but just can't find the >right approach. Here's one of several solutions for bringing multiple lighting leads and their ground into an orderly joining: http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Wiring_Technique/minibus.jpg http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Wiring_Technique/Minibus1.jpg http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Wiring_Technique/Minibus2.jpg Alternatively, it's perfectly valid to lap multiple strands of wires and fixture them for soldering with a single strand of fine copper. Make the solder joint and then cover with heat shrink. http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/PM_Solder_Sleeve/PM_Solder_Sleeve.html Finally, if the wires are small (22AWG or smaller) you can consider sticking multiple strands of wire into each end of a butt-splice. Note that a blue spice will easily accommodate three 20AWG wires, I suspect you can get 5-6 in each end. This allows you to bring 10-12 wires together in a common, well connected junction. http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/multiplewires/multiplewires.html http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/3x20Blue.jpg http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/PIDG-Splices.jpg Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ---------------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 06:04:30 PM PST US From: MLWynn@aol.com Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Fat Wire Terminals So, while on the subject, I also read Bob's article on soldering those terminals. I ordered a bunch of terminals from B & C and also bought their hammer-crimper. Wasn't sure whether I wanted to crimp or solder. The terminals came and had so much space in them that I wasn't sure I could fill in with a reasonable amount of additional copper wire. There was probably 1/8 th inch extra besides the #4 wire. I spoke with Bill at B&C. Heck of a nice guy. He double checked and thought the terminals were correct. I ended up using their crimper instead of soldering. Got a very tight crimp that I could not pull apart. I am not sure if it is air tight and was scratching my head about adding solder. Overkill, right? Regards, Michael Wynn RV 8 FWF San Ramon, CA In a message dated 1/26/2009 10:39:18 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com writes: --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" At 11:29 AM 1/26/2009, you wrote: > >I think this is one where you smile, say "Really? I might try it >that way next time.", and let the guy walk away. You might ask him >about the purpose behind the separate processes; but, that might >lead to an argument, which cuts into build time. Gotta protect your build time. Right on! Better yet, sic'em onto me. It's MY job to field these issues so you guys can make better use of your $time$ doing a good job. Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ---------------------------------------- **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! cemailfooterNO62) ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 09:11:40 PM PST US From: "Dave Leikam" Subject: AeroElectric-List: Headset jack wire runs Would three conductor shielded strobe wire work well for headset jack wire runs? Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 10:08:33 PM PST US From: "Jon Finley" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Fat Wire Terminals Well said Bob. I sure wish this was more widely understood (on a very wide scale - not just aviation). Jon DO NOT ARCHIVE An too common response to contrary opinions in our culture is to throw it out to "all the folks" with some notion that a majority of common belief is the path to golden information. It's far better than these things be first argued by individuals with an understanding of the simple-ideas that support the technology or process being discussed. It's almost never useful to debate such things by participants at large in open forums. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message aeroelectric-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/aeroelectric-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/aeroelectric-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.