Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:06 AM - Screw Terminals on B&C breakers... (Steve Stearns)
2. 09:24 AM - Best way to connect SS screw to aluminium (rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US)
3. 10:35 AM - Re: Common Wire Diameters ()
4. 10:50 AM - Re: Toggle Actuated Circuit Breakers ()
5. 01:11 PM - Re: Best way to connect SS screw to aluminium (paul wilson)
6. 03:57 PM - New circuit board as strong as steel, because it is steel! (rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US)
7. 05:54 PM - Re: New circuit board as strong as steel, because it is steel! (Henador Titzoff)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Screw Terminals on B&C breakers... |
Bob and the group,
While rewiring my not-yet-flown-by-me Longeze I've been attempting to
follow the interconnect philosophy (for power wiring) of:
Fast-ons preferred for appropriate (lower) current connections,
Studs w/ ring terminals (with either a self-locking nut or a 2nd (aka
jam-nut) nut) for higher current,
Screw-terminals, which aren't really lockable, to be avoided.
But I haven't been completely successful yet. What is recommended for:
-The screw-terminal B&C breaker used for the alternator field winding?
Blue locktite? Or use another breaker? Or don't worry about it? Of my
list, this one bothers me the most as the screws are small enough that
it's not clear to me I can tighten them enough to get an appropriately
gas-tight connection without stripping them. Not to mention the
(imagined?) possibility of inadvertently loosening them by poking around
behind the panel and moving the wire (and associated ring terminal) they
are attempting to clamp.
- The B+ connection on my alternator (ND external regulator type from a
Toyota) which uses a metric nut and doesn't have room on the stud for a
jam nut (I haven't looked for a high-temp self locking metric nut but
that's probably the answer if I can find one),
- The brass screw terminals for the amp-meter leads at the shunt (from
B&C) (blue locktite?)
On a related note, can anyone point me to the appropriate torque
standards for brass nuts onto brass studs (as on the B&C shunt and the
B&C grounding blocks...)
And, lastly, is there any (presumably metallurgical) reason it's a bad
idea to use a non-brass nut (or jam-nut) on a brass stud?
Thanks in advance,
Steve.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Best way to connect SS screw to aluminium |
I have a Bob Archer
SA-006 antenna (BIG "E"). It is made out of 2024-T4
.016".
The shield of the cable is supposed to be
connected to the aluminium "E" with a 4-40 stainless steel truss
head screw. The only contact to the aluminium is the undersidehead
of the screw. There ispheonelic on the other side.
The
antenna will be permanent bonded on the inside of the rudder with access
only through major surgery, thus I want to try and make this connection a
good as it can be.
It happens antenna came assembled and the
head is right over some painted markings.
Should I just scotch
bright and reassemble?
Perhaps put a #4 phosphor bronze star
washer under head?
Or??
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
This is not my install but you can see the #4 connection I
am talking about, it is the backside of the top one:
http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?full=1&set_albumName=album272&id=Archer_Troy_1&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php
Message 3
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| Subject: | Common Wire Diameters |
Excellent,
Thanks to all....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 11:05 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Common Wire Diameters
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
At 09:06 AM 2/5/2009, you wrote:
>
>Can any of you point me to a reference describing Tefzel MIL-W-22759/16
>wire diameter sizes for those typically used in aircraft? I am
>specifically interested in #4, #6, #10 & 12.
Diameters can vary depending on the slash number
for the variants. You can access the full spectrum
of data on 22759 and other wires in the catalog
on my website at . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Wire/Standard_Wire_and_Cable/Std_Wire_
Cable.pdf
/16 data is on document page 80 (pdf page 87).
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 4
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| Subject: | Toggle Actuated Circuit Breakers |
Thanks Ron,
That's what I was looking for. So if I really use it as a switch and a
breaker, the term life is good.
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 10:53 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Toggle Actuated Circuit Breakers
"> With respect to life cycles how do the switch type circuit breakers
hold
> up? I am looking at the Potter & Brumfield variety."
I can tell you from experience, if you try and loosen the screw on one
without supporting the metal tab it will not last one cycle!
I am not sure if it is exact switch, but Beechcraft is going through
some noise to have toggle breakers all replaced on I think it is Barons
due to a failure. Not sure if it was an open or closed failure. (There
is enough stuff going on in switch/breaker I could see there is a remote
chance it could fail miserably and weld itself closed or make a high
resistance connection and make plenty of heat)
That said local AIs and A+Ps all told me reliability is good, they don't
think any worst than pull able breakers, or switches that do fail from
time to time.
B+C is not an advocate of using them to supply power to field, said they
can sometimes (more often than they feel acceptable) make a higher
resistance connection than is needed for stable running alternator.
Found this tid bit out after I installed one for my SD20S, but will keep
that information handy if I develop a problem.
Not from experience but from dissecting one and studying, probably would
not be a bad idea to replace any very important toggle/breakers at
perhaps major time or 15 years?? Grease will go away and the plastic arm
to reset looks to me it could be a failure point.
I think if it is closed will probably be pretty reliable, as far as from
a mechanical standpoint goes. Resetting imposes a lot more mechanical
stresses than opening.
See:
http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album258&op=mod
loa
d&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
<http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album258&op=mo
dlo
ad&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php>
Break a breaker.
I am using perhaps a dozen or so on our Europa project, primarily from a
space savings point of view.
I didn't weigh difference between a Klixon pull able breaker and a
switch, but expect the later is probably lighter (a bank or 9 is pretty
heavy).
I forget exacts, but if a P+B toggle/breaker is good for 9 or 12K
cycles, supposedly a Klixon pull able breaker used as a switch (that it
is not precisely designed for) is good for 3 or 4K cycles. If I am off
on the number of cycles, it is not by much but it is what was told me.
You can look at a engineering sheet if you are really interested,
failure from lack of use and mechanical related age induced stresses are
much more likely though.
Ron Parigoris
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to connect SS screw to aluminium |
Al screw & Al washer with blue loctite???
Or a non conductive washer under the screw head. I frequently use
mylar. Make your own with a HF hole punch.
Paul
==========
At 09:22 AM 2/6/2009, you wrote:
>I have a Bob Archer SA-006 antenna (BIG "E"). It is made out of
>2024-T4 .016".
>
>The shield of the cable is supposed to be connected to the aluminium
>"E" with a 4-40 stainless steel truss head screw. The only contact
>to the aluminium is the underside head of the screw. There is
>pheonelic on the other side.
>
>The antenna will be permanent bonded on the inside of the rudder
>with access only through major surgery, thus I want to try and make
>this connection a good as it can be.
>
>It happens antenna came assembled and the head is right over some
>painted markings.
>
>Should I just scotch bright and reassemble?
>
>Perhaps put a #4 phosphor bronze star washer under head?
>
>Or??
>
>Thx.
>Ron Parigoris
>
>
>This is not my install but you can see the #4 connection I am
>talking about, it is the backside of the top one:
><http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?full=1&set_albumName=album272&id=Archer_Troy_1&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php>http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?full=1&set_albumName=album272&id=Archer_Troy_1&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php
>
>
><http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
><http://www.matronics.com/contribution>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | New circuit board as strong as steel, because it is |
steel!
If anyone is interested, I put up a few pictures of a Sharp AR207 digital
copier laser polygon motor assembly that has the circuit board built right
onto thin steel sheetmetal.
Hmm, wondering if it could be done
onto aluminium?
Hmm, wondering if you could build boards right
inside D-Sub aluminium style shell?
Last album:
http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album258&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: New circuit board as strong as steel, because it |
is steel!
Hmm, just wondering why you would want to build the board onto alumninum and onto
the inside of a D-sub aluminnum style shell. What benefit would that get you?
Regarding glueing the board to aluminum, why can't the aluminum be anodined to
accept the glue?
Henador Titzoff
________________________________
From: "rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Sent: Friday, February 6, 2009 6:55:15 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: New circuit board as strong as steel, because it is
steel!
If anyone is interested, I put up a few pictures of a Sharp AR207 digital
copier laser polygon motor assembly that has the circuit board built right
onto thin steel sheetmetal.
Hmm, wondering if it could be done
onto aluminium?
Hmm, wondering if you could build boards right
inside D-Sub aluminium style shell?
Last album:
http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album258&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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