Today's Message Index:
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1. 08:35 AM - Re: Measuring actual system current (Jim McBurney)
2. 09:40 AM - Re: Measuring actual system current (The Kuffels)
3. 01:23 PM - Re: Measuring actual system current (Dale Rogers)
4. 02:03 PM - Re: Measuring actual system current (Allen Fulmer)
5. 03:51 PM - Engine ground on RV 10 (Vernon Smith)
6. 05:49 PM - Comic Book for Crimping TNC Connectors (Bret Smith)
7. 07:37 PM - Re: Measuring actual system current (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 07:38 PM - Re: Engine ground on RV 10 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 07:47 PM - Re: Comic Book for Crimping TNC Connectors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 08:30 PM - z-14 ? (TimRhod@aol.com)
11. 09:05 PM - Re: Engine ground on RV 10 (Vernon Smith)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Measuring actual system current |
Sam (and List),
Frank is right -- the Fluke meters Jon referenced won't work on DC. Fluke
(Cadillac of meters) does sell DC clamp meters, for MANY hundreds of
dollars! However, here's a reference to a Craftsman AC/DC clamp meter that
works well, for about 60 bucks:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482369000P?mv=rr
Blue skies and tailwinds
Jim
CH-801
DeltaHawk diesel
Augusta GA
90% done, 90% left
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Measuring actual system current |
Sam,
<< Is there a way to measure the actual current draw of a system? ..
Dynon D180 EFIS/EMS. >>
The D180 comes with an accurate current shunt. If you installed your
shunt as an alternator load meter (Position B of page 3-12 of the
current [Rev E] D180 Installation Manual, between the alternator output
and everything else) then temporarily install it in Position A (between
the output of the Master Relay and everything else but the Starter
Relay) or Position C (between the junction of the Master Relay -
Alternator Output and the aircraft buss) whichever is mechanically
easier.
Start your engine, charge up the battery and then turn off the
alternator if your shunt is in Position A. The Dynon will now give you
detailed readout of current draw (and difference in draw) with various
pieces turned on or off. The one item missing is the current draw for
the Master Relay. My B&C 4-terminal style Master Relay uses 0.70 amps.
Tom Kuffel
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Measuring actual system current |
Sam Hoskins wrote:
> The reason I can't use the ammeter, I think, is that the readings
> would be clouded by charging/discharging of the battery.
Nope. An ammeter measures current passing through it - period. ~The~
airplane ammeter is just placed between the battery and ~everything
else~. To measure current in a branch circuit, you need another
ammeter. Open the circuit you want to check and insert the ammeter (or
ammeter/shunt combo). Run the device(s) you want verified; measure the
current draw.
When testing is complete remove ammeter and restore original circuit
configuration.
Dale R.
Message 4
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Subject: | Measuring actual system current |
I bought one of these recommended by someone else. Seems to work fine and
nice addition to toolbox.
http://www.extech.com/instrument/products/alpha/MA220.html
Allen Fulmer
Message 5
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Subject: | Engine ground on RV 10 |
Hi All=2C
I'm building an RV 10 with the 12v battery locally grounded and mounted in
the tail. Where is a good place to locally ground the engine on the airfram
e?
Possible engine grounding options are:
1. To a ground forest mounted on the stainless firewall. Q: Will the thin s
tainless handle the current during the starting of an IO 540?
2. To one of the engine mount/airframe bolts.
3. To the engine mount (Yes=2C I've read Bob's article against using this b
ut through it in anyway.)
3. Other options?
I really don't want to run a negative cable back to the battery (~12 foot o
f #2 cable.) I have looked through the archives and this subject has been n
ibbled around both here and on the RV 10 list=2C but not hit square on the
head. I look forward to you comments.
Thanks=2C
Vernon Smith (#324 RV 10 finishing)
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Message 6
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Subject: | Comic Book for Crimping TNC Connectors |
Bob, anyone, does anyone have any idea of the lengths to trim the RG-400
coax for an AMP TNC connector? This connector is required to install the
GPS antenna for the Garmin 430W.
Bret Smith
RV-9A N16BL
Blue Ridge, Ga
www.FlightInnovations.com <http://www.flightinnovations.com/>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Measuring actual system current |
At 08:31 AM 2/9/2009, you wrote:
>Is there a way to measure the actual current draw of a system? I
>finally got my electrically dependent engine started
>(<http://www.samhoskins.blogspot.com>www.samhoskins.blogspot.com)
>yesterday and I am using a version of Z-19/RB with a B&C 30A
>permemant magnet alternator. I have the primary battery installed
>and a Dynon D180 EFIS/EMS.
>
>I would like to be able to determine the real (not estimated)
>current draw of the system. Once I know that, I will select the
>appropriate back-up battery, trying to keep it as light as possible.
>
>There is an ammeter installed, but I don't think that would help for
>this data collection. Does anyone have any suggestions how I might
>go about this?
If you have breakers, then open the breaker that supplies
the load of interest and clip an ammeter across the open
breaker. If you have fuses, pull the fuse and clip the
meter between the fat power stud at the end of the fuseholder
and the other end to the output tab for that fuse.
Even the cheapest multimeter you can find will do for
this task.
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Test_Equipment/tenma1.jpg
Harbor Freight sells something like this for about $3 on
sale . . . regularly $9 I think.
For your task, I recommend you cut the probes off of the
test leads and install alligator clips with rubber booties
over them so that you can do "clip on" connections that
will stay in place while you manipulate ship's accessories
taking measurements.
If you're interested in e-bus loads, clip the mulitmeter
across an open e-bus alternate feed switch with the
battery master OFF. This will get you the total e-bus
load which is quite useful for adjusting battery size.
Remember that a battery's useful capacity goes DOWN as
load increases. A 17 a.h. battery is good for that
amount with a 20 hour discharge rate. When you hang
say a 4A e-bus load on it, you won't get the full
17 a.h. . . . it will be more like 13-14 a.h.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Engine ground on RV 10 |
At 05:49 PM 2/10/2009, you wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>I'm building an RV 10 with the 12v battery locally grounded and
>mounted in the tail. Where is a good place to locally ground the
>engine on the airframe?
>
>Possible engine grounding options are:
>
>1. To a ground forest mounted on the stainless firewall. Q: Will the
>thin stainless handle the current during the starting of an IO 540?
>
>2. To one of the engine mount/airframe bolts.
>
>3. To the engine mount (Yes, I've read Bob's article against using
>this but through it in anyway.)
>
>3. Other options?
>
>I really don't want to run a negative cable back to the battery (~12
>foot of #2 cable.) I have looked through the archives and this
>subject has been nibbled around both here and on the RV 10 list, but
>not hit square on the head. I look forward to you comments.
The big guys have been using airframes for cranking
current grounds for many, many moons. In this case,
ground crankcase to forest-of-tabs bolt with a braid
strap -AND- it wouldn't hurt to add the jumper straps
around the shock mounts like the big guys too . . .
Bob . . .
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Comic Book for Crimping TNC Connectors |
At 07:47 PM 2/10/2009, you wrote:
>Bob, anyone, does anyone have any idea of the lengths to trim the
>RG-400 coax for an AMP TNC connector? This connector is required to
>install the GPS antenna for the Garmin 430W.
>
It's the same as the BNC. See:
http://aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Connectors/AMP_Tyco/TNC_Installation.pdf
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 10
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To Bob Nuckols
I have a Velocity with a Z-14 wire configuration. I have duel light speed
electronic ignitions wired directly to the two respective batteries . In the
event of a dead battery how do you get the dead battery contactor closed with
the other system so you can charge the dead battery which keeps its respective
electric ignition going. I know there is a solution because you gave it to
me a few years ago and I was able to do the following . Recently I had a
dead auxillary battery due to leaving on the pitot heat. I started the
engine with main battery and was able to close the auxillary contactor with
power from the main system. I believe this was from a modification you had
suggested to me when I wired the system. I can't remember what the modification
was. Could you repeat it for me? I love this system because I was facing a
long X-country flight and I was able to still go due to still having one
good battery and two alternators. Love the redundancy!!! Fantastic!!!
Thanks Tim
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
bemailfooterNO62)
Message 11
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Subject: | Engine ground on RV 10 |
Bob=2C
Thanks for the response. Got it=2C two braided jumper straps. That's one le
ss thing to obsess over!
Vern
do not archive
> Date: Tue=2C 10 Feb 2009 21:37:44 -0600
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> From: nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Engine ground on RV 10
>
kolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> At 05:49 PM 2/10/2009=2C you wrote:
> >Hi All=2C
> >
> >I'm building an RV 10 with the 12v battery locally grounded and
> >mounted in the tail. Where is a good place to locally ground the
> >engine on the airframe?
> >
> >Possible engine grounding options are:
> >
> >1. To a ground forest mounted on the stainless firewall. Q: Will the
> >thin stainless handle the current during the starting of an IO 540?
> >
> >2. To one of the engine mount/airframe bolts.
> >
> >3. To the engine mount (Yes=2C I've read Bob's article against using
> >this but through it in anyway.)
> >
> >3. Other options?
> >
> >I really don't want to run a negative cable back to the battery (~12
> >foot of #2 cable.) I have looked through the archives and this
> >subject has been nibbled around both here and on the RV 10 list=2C but
> >not hit square on the head. I look forward to you comments.
>
> The big guys have been using airframes for cranking
> current grounds for many=2C many moons. In this case=2C
> ground crankcase to forest-of-tabs bolt with a braid
> strap -AND- it wouldn't hurt to add the jumper straps
> around the shock mounts like the big guys too . . .
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
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