Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:10 AM - ANL Sizing (Andrew Butler)
2. 06:19 AM - Re: ANL Sizing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 06:39 AM - Re: ANL Sizing ()
4. 06:55 AM - SD-8 crowbar breaker (Tom Barter)
5. 07:52 AM - Voltmeter too bright (rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US)
6. 08:14 AM - Re: Re: Using a key Ignition switch with a Rotax 912 (John Morgensen)
7. 09:20 AM - Re: Voltmeter too bright ()
8. 11:08 AM - Lamar MC10 master control unit (Mike Pienaar)
9. 12:00 PM - Re: Voltmeter too bright (raymondj)
10. 06:55 PM - Re: E-bus and sd-8 alternator connections Z-13/8 Q (Chris)
11. 07:03 PM - How to attach wire to D-sub female pin (Ralph Finch)
12. 08:00 PM - Re: How to attach wire to D-sub female pin (Bob White)
13. 08:14 PM - Re: How to attach wire to D-sub female pin (Bob White)
14. 08:35 PM - Revision 12 pre-published release (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 08:39 PM - Re: SD-8 crowbar breaker (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 08:46 PM - Re: Re: Using a key Ignition switch with a Rotax 912 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 10:08 PM - Why are antenna torroids painted different colors? (rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US)
Message 1
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Hello,
I am installing my ANL mounting base on my firewall. I have a 60 AMP alternator
and my loading chart shows a continuous load of approx. 30A with max load (landing
config. lights plus flaps, fuel pump etc.) of up to 47 or 48A.
Is a 40A ANL suffient or should I install a 50A or 60A ANL?
Best regards,
Andrew.
RV71700
Galway
Ireland.
Message 2
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At 05:07 AM 2/25/2009, you wrote:
><andrewbutler@ireland.com>
>
>Hello,
>
>I am installing my ANL mounting base on my firewall. I have a 60 AMP
>alternator and my loading chart shows a continuous load of approx.
>30A with max load (landing config. lights plus flaps, fuel
>pump etc.) of up to 47 or 48A.
>
>Is a 40A ANL suffient or should I install a 50A or 60A ANL?
>
>Best regards,
ANL current limiters are exceedingly robust with
respect to their ratings. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Fuses_and_Current_Limiters/Bussman/ANL_Specs.pdf
Bussman only makes 35, 50 and 80A values in the
lower ratings at the time the data sheet was published.
Other manufacturers may have other selections in
this range. If you can put your hands on even a 35A
ANL, it will be fine for your application since it
carries 80A continuously.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 3
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Andrew,
If you're pulling 30 amps all day long a 30 amp ANL won't even flinch and probably
your best bet for that rating.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Butler
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 6:08 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: ANL Sizing
Hello,
I am installing my ANL mounting base on my firewall. I have a 60 AMP alternator
and my loading chart shows a continuous load of approx. 30A with max load (landing
config. lights plus flaps, fuel pump etc.) of up to 47 or 48A.
Is a 40A ANL suffient or should I install a 50A or 60A ANL?
Best regards,
Andrew.
RV71700
Galway
Ireland.
Message 4
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| Subject: | SD-8 crowbar breaker |
Bob,
I have noticed that the z-figures that incorporate the SD-8 show a 5 amp
breaker for the aux. alternator crowbar. The instructions from B&C call for
a 2 amp breaker to be used with the SD-8 OV protection. As I recall, there
has been some discussion in the past about nuisance tripping and upgrading
the breaker size. I know that the diagrams are suggested architecture only,
not component or wire size, but I wondered about this.
Tom Barter
Kesley, IA
Avid Magnum - wiring
Message 5
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| Subject: | Voltmeter too bright |
I have very small (perhaps two sugar cubes side by side) rectangular
cubeLED voltmeter (blue in color) that is now mounted on my
passenger headrest panel to monitor E-Bus.
Very nice display
and just theright brightness for daytime operation.
For night time operationit's a little too bright.
It is
a pottedtwo wire volt meter (first saw them in use on
motorcycles).
Anyone have a more eloquent idea (and where to
get materials) how to tame light output other than sticking on a piece of
shaded vinyl?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Using a key Ignition switch with a Rotax 912 |
rckol wrote:
>
> I had it in mind to use the momentary contact version of the key switch to replace
the push button starter switch, so it would actually be switching the current
to the starter contactor.
>
> My concerns are whether these are quality items that would be expected to perform
well in the extremes of temperatures that it will see (Wisconsin winters
to desert heat).
>
> --------
> rck
>
>
>
I found a keyed switch intended for marine use at the local NAPA store.
John Morgensen
Message 7
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| Subject: | Voltmeter too bright |
Ron,
The easy way out...
Cut a piece of window shading (any darkness) to fit over the flat
screen. Attach as you would to the car window. Done
Do Not Archive
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 10:43 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Voltmeter too bright
I have very small (perhaps two sugar cubes side by side) rectangular
cube LED voltmeter (blue in color) that is now mounted on my passenger
headrest panel to monitor E-Bus.
Very nice display and just the right brightness for daytime operation.
For night time operation it's a little too bright.
It is a potted two wire volt meter (first saw them in use on
motorcycles).
Anyone have a more eloquent idea (and where to get materials) how to
tame light output other than sticking on a piece of shaded vinyl?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
Message 8
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| Subject: | Lamar MC10 master control unit |
Hi All,
I cannot find much info on the Lamar MC10 master control unit on the
net. My questions are:
1. Is it worth making a box similar to theirs to put all the components
in even if it is just to make everything look tidy.
2. I think I can figure most of what they do but why are there 4
contactors.
3. Where do I source the manual reset circuit breakers that they use.
The circuit breaker has 2 lugs to bolt it down and 2 studs for the leads
and a small reset button.
Thanks for your help
Mike
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Voltmeter too bright |
Put a switch on it, so it's only active when you want to monitor the ebus
voltage.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
"Hope for the best,
but prepare for the worst."
----- Original Message -----
From: <rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US>
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 9:43 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Voltmeter too bright
>
>
> I have very small (perhaps two sugar cubes side by side) rectangular
> cube LED voltmeter (blue in color) that is now mounted on my
> passenger headrest panel to monitor E-Bus.
>
> Very nice display
> and just the right brightness for daytime operation.
>
> For night time operation it's a little too bright.
>
> It is
> a potted two wire volt meter (first saw them in use on
> motorcycles).
>
> Anyone have a more eloquent idea (and where to
> get materials) how to tame light output other than sticking on a piece of
> shaded vinyl?
>
> Thx.
> Ron Parigoris
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: E-bus and sd-8 alternator connections Z-13/8 |
Q
I had one other thought...since I had the understanding that it would not be
good to run an alternator without the battery in line I would use a double
pole switch which would activate the e-bus alternate feed and alternator at
the same time thereby I would never have the chance to turn the alternator
(SD-8) on without the e-bus on. Is this wise (correct).
Thanks
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: E-bus and sd-8 alternator connections Z-13/8
Q
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> At 11:06 AM 2/23/2009, you wrote:
>>
>>Bob,
>>I am laying out my RV-10 wiring based on the Z-13/8 Q. My battery is
>>behind the bagage area as is my master contactor. Z-13/8 Q shows the SD-8
>>going to the battery side of the contactor. My battery bus will be next to
>>the battery and I will run the e-bus supply wire from there foward to the
>>panel.
>> Question: Instead of running another wire all the way back to the master
>> contactor from the SD-8 could I just run from the SD-8 to the E-bus which
>> is under the panel?
>>With this arrangment I would activate e-buss when needed and then sd-8,
>>otherwise sd-8 would be dormant and only supply power when e-buss is
>>activated.
>
> I've pondered this a bit . . . I think you will
> be okay with that modification.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------)
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | How to attach wire to D-sub female pin |
I need to attach wires (solder or crimp?) to female pins for the D-sub
connector, as shown here.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/D-Sub_Pin/D-Sub_A.jpg
I'm pretty sure only solder will work but want to check with the experts.
And what wire size is recommended, assuming 1 amp and say 1 or 2 foot run?
Thanks,
Ralph Finch
Davis, CA
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: How to attach wire to D-sub female pin |
Hi Ralph,
Those are crimp pins. The tool from B&C works great.
Stock #: RCT-3
Bob W.
On Wed, 25 Feb 2009 18:59:18 -0800
"Ralph Finch" <rgf@dcn.davis.ca.us> wrote:
> I need to attach wires (solder or crimp?) to female pins for the D-sub
> connector, as shown here.
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/D-Sub_Pin/D-Sub_A.jpg
>
>
>
> I'm pretty sure only solder will work but want to check with the experts.
> And what wire size is recommended, assuming 1 amp and say 1 or 2 foot run?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Ralph Finch
>
> Davis, CA
>
>
>
>
--
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
3.8 Hours Total Time and holding
Cables for your rotary installation - http://roblinstores.com/
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: How to attach wire to D-sub female pin |
Sorry, I didn't read the whole thing. 20 or 22 AWG wire will be
fine. That's the size range for the pin anyway. Picture is of a male
pin, but the crimp tool works on both the male and female version.
Bob W.
On Wed, 25 Feb 2009 20:57:44 -0700
Bob White <bob@bob-white.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Ralph,
>
> Those are crimp pins. The tool from B&C works great.
> Stock #: RCT-3
>
> Bob W.
>
>
> On Wed, 25 Feb 2009 18:59:18 -0800
> "Ralph Finch" <rgf@dcn.davis.ca.us> wrote:
>
> > I need to attach wires (solder or crimp?) to female pins for the D-sub
> > connector, as shown here.
> >
> > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/D-Sub_Pin/D-Sub_A.jpg
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm pretty sure only solder will work but want to check with the experts.
> > And what wire size is recommended, assuming 1 amp and say 1 or 2 foot run?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> >
> >
> > Ralph Finch
> >
> > Davis, CA
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
3.8 Hours Total Time and holding
Cables for your rotary installation - http://roblinstores.com/
Message 14
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| Subject: | Revision 12 pre-published release |
I've put copies of the Revision 12 pages up at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Rev12A/
. . . for your review. I'll be going to the printers
with it next week. In the mean time, knowing of any
potholes that folks can spot would be appreciated.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: SD-8 crowbar breaker |
At 08:51 AM 2/25/2009, you wrote:
>Bob,
>
>I have noticed that the z-figures that incorporate the SD-8 show a 5
>amp breaker for the aux. alternator crowbar. The instructions from
>B&C call for a 2 amp breaker to be used with the SD-8 OV
>protection. As I recall, there has been some discussion in the past
>about nuisance tripping and upgrading the breaker size. I know that
>the diagrams are suggested architecture only, not component or wire
>size, but I wondered about this.
The size of the breaker has nothing to do with nuisance
tripping of the crowbar OV protection system. Either 2A
or 5A will work. I standardized on the 5A for all these
years because it's generally less expensive than the 2A.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Using a key Ignition switch with a Rotax |
912
At 08:29 PM 2/24/2009, you wrote:
>
>I had it in mind to use the momentary contact version of the key
>switch to replace the push button starter switch, so it would
>actually be switching the current to the starter contactor.
>
>My concerns are whether these are quality items that would be
>expected to perform well in the extremes of temperatures that it
>will see (Wisconsin winters to desert heat).
Starter contactors are generally intermittent duty
devices that are pretty hard on switches compared
to other forms of heavy duty relay. But the answer
to your question cannot be quantified. Suppose I told
you that the momentary, non-snap action switch is has
perhaps 1/10th the service life of a snap-action push-
button with heavy contacts.
Without know exactly how long EITHER switch lasts
in that application, you can't deduce the service
life of the other switch either. "Quality items"
is also non-quantified. I have no way to offer you
an opinion based on any understanding of simple-
ideas.
We should be striving to build failure-tolerant
airplanes. What are the consequences of failure
for this switch? Could you not jury-rig some temporary
means by which you energize the contactor to get the
engine started so you can go home?
This is an OBAM aircraft . . . you're allowed to
think in such terms. Our spam-can flying brethern
risk sanction for taking off with the wrong screw
holding the ash tray in place. Try anything you
think will meet your design goals . . . and put
something else in later if your first choice
proves to be a disappointment. NO switch will
last forever.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 17
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| Subject: | Why are antenna torroids painted different colors? |
Just received torroids from Aircraft Sprucefor Quickie antenna kit
PN 11-0990 that I want to fool with on my Europa project.
They
are painted green then the Mfg. painted the face on one side white.
Why is one face painted white and do I need to concern myself with
which way I install them on RG-400 antenna cable?
Thx.
Ron
Parigoris
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