Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:00 AM - Garmin radio & transpnder installation manuals (Gilles Thesee)
2. 04:50 AM - Brass vs copper ()
3. 04:50 AM - Re: Garmin radio & transpnder installation manuals (ROGER & JEAN CURTIS)
4. 05:09 AM - Re: Garmin radio & transpnder installation manuals (Floyd)
5. 05:43 AM - Re: Brass vs copper (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 06:14 AM - Re: Affixing an Engine Ground ()
7. 06:42 AM - Re: Re: Polyfuses ()
8. 07:00 AM - Re: Brass vs copper ()
9. 07:00 AM - Re: Garmin radio & transpnder installation manuals (Ron Quillin)
10. 07:53 AM - Re: Fw: Re: IVOPROP Magnum installation instructions (Richard Girard)
11. 09:14 AM - Re: Garmin radio & transpnder installation manuals (Gilles Thesee)
12. 10:00 AM - Re: Affixing an Engine Ground (Jim Berry)
13. 11:58 AM - Re: IVOPROP Magnum (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 12:00 PM - My SD-8 Experience (Ken Harrill)
15. 12:43 PM - Re: Re: IVOPROP Magnum (Richard Girard)
16. 02:21 PM - Re: Trio altitude hold system (franz@lastfrontierheli.com)
17. 02:49 PM - Re: Brass vs copper (rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US)
18. 08:20 PM - AeroElectric Connection Fig. 17.6 Dual Battery Installation (Angier M. Ames)
19. 09:32 PM - Re: Trio altitude hold system ()
20. 10:08 PM - Re: Trio altitude hold system (Franz Fux)
Message 1
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Subject: | Garmin radio & transpnder installation manuals |
Hi all,
A buddy bought a Garmin SL30 Nav/Comm and a Garmin GTX 328 transponder
and asked me to install them, but to date I am unable to locate the
installation manuals.
Does anyone happen to have them or know a convenient location ?
Any input appreciated,
Thanks in advance,
Best regards,
--
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 2
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Whem building bus bars and ground points, are there any significant reasons to
use one over the other?
Thanks,
Gene
Message 3
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Subject: | Garmin radio & transpnder installation manuals |
Gilles,
I just saw an SL30 installation manual on Ebay. The present bid is $5.00.
Roger
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gilles
Thesee
Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 6:56 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Garmin radio & transpnder installation manuals
<Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Hi all,
A buddy bought a Garmin SL30 Nav/Comm and a Garmin GTX 328 transponder
and asked me to install them, but to date I am unable to locate the
installation manuals.
Does anyone happen to have them or know a convenient location ?
Any input appreciated,
Thanks in advance,
Best regards,
--
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Garmin radio & transpnder installation manuals |
The are here for free
http://www.bomar.biz/
Floyd Wilkes
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gilles Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 5:55 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Garmin radio & transpnder installation manuals
> <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
> Hi all,
>
> A buddy bought a Garmin SL30 Nav/Comm and a Garmin GTX 328 transponder and
> asked me to install them, but to date I am unable to locate the
> installation manuals.
> Does anyone happen to have them or know a convenient location ?
>
> Any input appreciated,
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Best regards,
> --
> Gilles
> http://contrails.free.fr
>
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Brass vs copper |
At 06:46 AM 4/8/2009, you wrote:
>
>Whem building bus bars and ground points, are there any significant
>reasons to use one over the other?
Brass comes in a variety of alloys and can have an
electrical conductivity of perhaps 20% that of
pure copper. But brass is generally easier to work
with in terms of drilling clean holes. It's also
a bit less reactive and subject to corrosion than
copper.
That relatively low conduction value is significant
if you were making wire . . . and needing to efficiently
carry energy long distances. But for compact parts like
bus bars, either material can be considered. While
making the same part from copper might offer 1/5th
the electrical losses, losses in a copper bus bar
are very small . . . and 5x very small is still small.
How are you intending to build ground blocks?
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 6
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Subject: | Affixing an Engine Ground |
Ah yes, thought of that. I ground off just under the bolt, so as to keep
up with appearances.
Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bret
Smith
Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Affixing an Engine Ground
Glenn,
I would grind the paint off where you have attached the ground in order
to
ensure a good connection...
Bret Smith
RV-9A "Finishing"
Blue Ridge, GA
www.FlightInnovations.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <longg@pjm.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 8:14 AM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Affixing an Engine Ground
On closer inspection of my Lycoming I found there are two pre-determined
grounding locations on the IO-360 engine. Those bearing the Dynafocal
mount setup have a purpose built hole on the ear of lower mounting tabs.
I've attached a few pics.
Thanks,
Glenn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2009 7:53 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Affixing an Engine Ground
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
At 09:49 AM 2/13/2009, you wrote:
>I have a new IO-360 and I am at a loss as to the best place to bolt
>the ground wire. Do any of you have a suggestion? A picture may be
>valuable here.
>
>Along the same lines, my craft is fiberglass and I am wondering if
>it's smart to have two such ground running from the firewall to the
engine.
One is sufficient. Assemblies on airplanes held together
with big bolts are generally considered failure free if
assembled per instructions.
Even if the airplane is metal, the engine sits on
non-conductive shock mounts. Some designers have
called for conductive bonding straps around the
shock mounts for the purpose of electrically
connecting the engine to the engine mount and
ultimately to the airframe at the firewall.
But if you plot out all the series and paralleled
connections in such an array of conductors, it
becomes apparent that the most effective and
simple process is the fat-wire or braided
ground jumper from the crankcase to a high-quality
ground on the firewall, i.e. forest-of-tabs
or equal.
I'd be pleased to have photos of good connections
to the crankcase on various engines. I'll publish
them on the website.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 7
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|
I've all but completed the installation of the dual Lightspeed and I'm
attach a few pics for those still on the road. I used Bob's idea of
backing up the main leads to the 5 amp Potter breaker-switches with 30
amp in line fuses. I won't advocate one approach over another so, this
is how I did it and I'm sticking to it. I bring a lead in from the hot
side of the battery contactor and secure it to a terminal block I picked
up at Stein. This makes the distribution a breeze and leaves me a spare
hot terminal for the next gadget. On the panel view the two green switch
covered items are the breakers. Their lines come directly off the power
feeders and the loads to the plasma boxes.
>From my point of view attaching the wire to the hot side of the battery
contactor is just as good as going directly to the battery. If the
battery lead falls off my lead will also, so what's the point. If the
contactor lead falls off, I'll use my backup battery to feed the
terminal bar. If any of that happens and I'm still around I'm going to
torque the bolts onto the battery and the contactor and then epoxy the
threads so they never come off again. I expect no issues.
I talked to an Plasma III owner last night who had one of the ignition
boxes fail in flight. He did not say if the internal OVP kicked off or
what the problem was but they continued the flight safely. LS replaced
the box, but not before trying a new coil, wires and so on. The main
problem was getting a replacement module at the off-site location and
ferrying back and forth to install the parts. One caveat of these things
is that Pep Boys doesn't carry them. If you are lucky enough to live in
SO Cal, you will have better access to their source.
One note on the in-line fuses. Don't buy them from B & C - they are
poorly made. The terminals inside are not strait and the plastic is rock
hard. I damaged more than one fuse trying to get them in. Threw them
away and went to Napa. TG for Napa.
The ignition system will have a backup battery at some point - I'm still
pondering how best to work it into Z-13/8.
Some pictures here...
http://n661gl.blogspot.com/
Glenn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 2009 10:11 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Polyfuses
--> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
At 11:01 AM 3/16/2009, you wrote:
>
>Jose,
>
>Would you bet your life on a floppy adaptation on your Lightspeed
>ignition? Perhaps yours is just cursory interest. I'm sure you can jam
>pennies in there if you like. There's no reason that would not work.
>
>Right now I am using Bob's proposed schematic which adds two in-line 30
>amp fuses in front of two 5 amp breakers. He also considered two relays
>in place of the 30 amp ATC's.
>
>I guess my deal is how am I going to get at those 30 amp in-line fuses
>and still keep my eye on flying the airplane. I suppose if you blow two
>30 amp fuses behind the two five amp breakers suggested by LSA, you're
>already in deep doo-doo.
>
>I wanted to ask Bob why the 30 amp fuse? Couldn't we get-a-way with
>something lighter, say 20 amp?
No . . . well . . . depends. When you compare the various
time-to-trip curves for over-current protection, there's
a often overlooked consideration - response time.
Magnetic breakers and electronic breakers can be exceedingly
fast. Most thermal devices are tailored to a design goal.
For example, you can get 5A fast blow fuses and 5A slow blow
fuses. Thermal breakers as a class of circuit protector
are generally VERY slow compared to a fuse of the same ratings.
So, hook a 5A breaker in series with a 5A fuse and hit
the feeder with a short. The fuse opens every time. Keep
increasing the fuse size and you'll find that it probably
takes a 20A fuse to out-muscle a 5A breaker. So for good
headroom in the design, we make the upstream protection MUCH
more robust than the downstream protection.
This is why ANL limiters are exceedingly robust. They are
intended to be part of a distribution system wherein
no single downstream feeder protection can trip an
upstream feeder protection . . . even if the upstream
feeder is running say 100% of system average. See:
http://aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Fuses_and_Current_Limiters/Bussman/ANL
_Specs.pdf
Note that the "rating" for a current limiter
includes enough headroom that it can be loaded to
100% of rating and still stand off a downstream
breaker or fuse trip.
I'm working and accident right now wherein redundant
feeders to a common bus were protected with fuses
and not current limiters with an unfortunate outcome.
This is IMPORTANT. This is why my 5A crowbar breaker
feed is protected upstream with a fusible link.
The breaker will always open before the fusible link.
Bob . . .
>What I would like to see is a polyfuse mounted into an ATC fuse shell,
>preferably one of those ATC types that have the LED already built in to
>indicate a fault. By so doing, you could use the readily available ATC
>fuse blocks, thereby retaining the option to simply pull the Polyfuse
>out when you need to. For my first attempt, I was going to try a little
>surgery on an ATC fuse package and epoxy a Polyfuse to it..., but I
>have not yet taken the chance to play with this. My guess is that it
>may be only a matter of time before some Taiwanese manufacturer starts
>putting polyfuses in the ATC fuse format.
Read the discussions on my website about the downside for
having self resetting circuit protection. The Polyfuse is
not a drop-in replacement for fuses or breakers. The
design task I'm working right now goes to a very specific
application of the Polyfuse. Similarly, fusible links
are not to be used in place of breakers or fuses without
sifting all the simple ideas and making sure design
goals are being met.
Polyfuses ARE used in automobiles. Seat adjuster motors
and widow riser motors are commonly protected with Polyfuses.
But you can be sure that if there were good value in
using them everywhere, the car guys would have ditched
the fuse block a long time ago. They ARE NOT directly
interchangeable technologies.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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Gene,
Both B & C and Stein sell brass buss bar stock (what do they know?). The thought
is that copper is softer and may give under torque loads. Personally I find
copper to be a solid alternative. If you look at the buss on the electrical panel
in your house (and everyone else's), you find mostly aluminum, albeit rather
thick aluminum. The panel in your house doesn't normally move or vibrate, so
that is a primary reason for using brass in airplanes which has good torque
ratings.
If we took a class in metallurgy, we would likely find there are not yet tried
superior metals. You would also find that the service life of one over the other
will extend long after we're gone. I took calculus and we applied it to metal
failure in widgets (makes you feel like it's really useful in life). The difference
between copper and brass used on a tool over their life were something
like 10 log -> 2 power as applied to charted figures. This basically meant you
would never outlive the life of either if you rubbed it 100 times a day for
the rest of your life. Interesting stuff.
Silver is a great conductor, but too soft to torque bolts too. Aluminum is also
thought to be too soft. Back in the sixties the old guys tried aluminum in house
wire, but later found the mice had screwdrivers and were always loosening
the connections.
One nice thing about brass is that if your really worried the mounting bolts can
be brazed (lightly) such that they will never come loose.
Glenn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of gdaub@cox.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 7:47 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Brass vs copper
Whem building bus bars and ground points, are there any significant reasons to
use one over the other?
Thanks,
Gene
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Garmin radio & transpnder installation manuals |
If you're installing into a non-certified A/C, contact GarminAT
support and they will supply current manuals.
Ron Q.
At 03:55 4/8/2009, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>A buddy bought a Garmin SL30 Nav/Comm and a Garmin GTX 328
>transponder and asked me to install them, but to date I am unable to
>locate the installation manuals.
>Does anyone happen to have them or know a convenient location ?
>
>Any input appreciated,
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Best regards,
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Fwd: Re: IVOPROP Magnum installation instructions |
Gosh Bob, you haven't even begun to bed in the prop blades, yet. The fun is
just beginning.
Rick
On Tue, Apr 7, 2009 at 8:07 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> To: ivoprop@pacbell.net
> Subject: IVOPROP Magnum installation instructions
>
> By way of introduction, I'm a retired electrical engineer
> with 40+ years in aviation and other venues. I write and
> publish the AeroElectric Connection, a guide for the
> crafting of modern electrical systems in owner built and
> maintained aircraft. I support a website at
>
> Http://aeroelectric.com
>
> and moderate an aviation electrical systems discussion
> group with over 1800 subscribers on Matronics. com
>
> One of my readers tells me that instructions for
> one of your products calls for installing a wire
> harness in its as-supplied length. When he asked about
> cutting it to length, he tells me that your service
> folks told him that the wiring resistance was part of
> a critical calculation for the sizing of circuit breakers
> . . . or some such.
>
> I'm mystified by his understanding of the assertion. I
> offered to write to your directly and inquire as to the
> elements of physics that control your wire sizing and
> why he is advised to install so much extra wire that
> is not useful to his project.
>
> I hope you can clear this up for me. Thanks!
>
>
> Dear Robert, The elements of physics are not available.
>> The wire harness is used as a resistor. If shortened, too much current
>> goes into the unit causing the carrier, gears, leadscrew, etc. to break.
>> Once the spool reaches the stop, if the switch is continued
>> to be held the circuit breaker should pop within 5-7 seconds. It would be
>> possible to shorten the wire
>> and put in its place a resistor that would cause the circuit
>> breaker to pop in the same amount of time. We do not encourage this
>> because if there is a mistake,
>> parts will break and the factory sealed unit will need to be returned to
>> our factory for repair. If the wire is too long it is best to just coil it
>> up. Regards, Ron
>>
>>
> Ron,
>
> Hmmmm . . . I'm sorry to hear this. I would
> have wished that design goals and demonstrable
> robustness for this product were in closer
> agreement with commercial aviation practices.
>
> A motor driven gear train at risk for
> damage by hitting mechanical stops could
> not be qualified for use on a type certificated
> aircraft. If limit switches and/or mechanical
> torque limiters were not part of the basic
> design, then some form of electrical torque
> limiting is called for by tailoring the speed/
> torque curve of the motor -AND- limiting energy
> stored on the motor's armature when mechanical
> limits are reached.
>
> Is there a brake on the motor? What happens if the
> prop mechanism becomes disconnected from the motor?
> Will the mechanism back-drive? What pitch state does
> the prop go if the drive train becomes disconnected?
> It is stable in that state?
>
> What is the maximum expected operating current for
> the motor? What is it's expected stall current at
> 14.5V with the lead lengths as-supplied? What is
> the as-supplied wire size? What is the size and
> manufacturer's part number for the supplied breaker?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------)
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Garmin radio & transpnder installation manuals |
Thank you to everyone who responded on-list as well as off-list.
I now have everything I need.
Thanks again,
Best regards,
--
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Affixing an Engine Ground |
Van's method for grounding the IO-540 in the RV10 is to use the accessory case
bolts just below the upper Lord mounts.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238342#238342
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: IVOPROP Magnum |
At 09:48 AM 4/8/2009, you wrote:
>Gosh Bob, you haven't even begun to bed in the prop blades, yet. The
>fun is just beginning.
>
>Rick
"bed in"??? You'll have to help me out here.
I herd electrons for a living.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 14
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Subject: | My SD-8 Experience |
This is empirical data with a sample of one. It is not a statement of what is
true or fact. The experience of others may be entirely different.
A little over a year ago my airplane, an RV-6, was grounded for a month while I
tried to make the self-excitation circuit work with my installed SD-8 standby
alternator. I was not successful. The self excitation circuit, wired according
to Z-25, would trip its overvoltage circuit. I experimented with different
size capacitors and resistors to no avail. I was tired of not flying so I gave
up and went back to my previous setup (see the attached circuit diagram).
Except for this period of experimentation, the standby alternator circuit on
my plane (configured per the attachment) has worked reliably for six years and
800 hours. It is a modification of Z-13 that allows the standby system to be
completely independent of the main bus and battery system (in order to avoid
a single point of failure). If the engine is running the standby system will
provide power. The only negative to this configuration is that it requires a
small (0.8 AH) battery. The battery is the size of a deck of cards, weighs less
than a pound, costs about $25 and is commonly available at the local battery
store (Power Patrol SLA 1000; Power Sonic PS-1208WL; or Universal Power Group
UB 1208). I change the battery at three year intervals. I hope someone will
find this helpful.
--------
Ken Harrill
RV-6
Columiba, SC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238364#238364
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/standby_alternator_circuit_150.pdf
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: IVOPROP Magnum |
Bob, The IVO prop mounts composite blades between knurled plates bolted
together. The bedding process is done bringing the bolts up to torque as the
knurling bites into the base of the blade. It's an interesting idea in
theory, but becomes very labor intensive, very quickly, in practice.
Rick
On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 1:56 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> At 09:48 AM 4/8/2009, you wrote:
>
>> Gosh Bob, you haven't even begun to bed in the prop blades, yet. The fun
>> is just beginning.
>>
>> Rick
>>
>
>
> "bed in"??? You'll have to help me out here.
> I herd electrons for a living.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------)
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Trio altitude hold system |
This was my first area of checking, all is very solid, probably over build, I also
tried out the system without connecting the static line, no change as well
Franz
------Original Message------
From: Etienne Phillips
Sender: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
ReplyTo: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Trio altitude hold system
Sent: Apr 7, 2009 21:26
On 08 Apr 2009, at 12:57 AM, Franz Fux <franz@lastfrontierheli.com>
wrote:
> Hi all,
> Maybe one of you has come across the same problem that I have
> encountered.
Hi Franz
Have you checked for play in the linkage between the servo arm and the
control mechanism, or more generally, any play between the servo and
elevator?
Control systems usually exhibit the symptom you describe if there's
backlash or play...
Etienne
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Brass vs copper |
As Bob stated brass does not conduct very good.
Copper 101
or 110 does not machine very good.
Now that is not the case for
copper 1451 It machines terrific.
Go to www.mcmaster.com
search:
"about copper"
"copper
145"
Here is technical info:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#8964kac/=1czbjr
Although not quite as conductive as 101, not bad.
Ron
Parigoris
Message 18
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Subject: | AeroElectric Connection Fig. 17.6 Dual Battery Installation |
Hello,
I am finalizing a single alt dual battery installation in my Lancair
360 and generally following the diagram in figure 17.6. According to
this diagram, with both the aux bat and main bat contactors open, the
aux battery is isolated from the endurance bus and essentially reduces
total endurance by half. Why not tie both batteries together to feed
the endurance bus through the E-Bus Alt Feed Switch? Not only do you
have both batteries working for you, but the current drain from the
aux bat contactor is eliminated.
I'm definitely electrically challenged so what am I missing here?
Thanks
Angier Ames
N4ZQ
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Trio altitude hold system |
I must have missed the beginning of the thread...but whoever started it -
stop typing, pick up the phone and call Trio.
Their support is top-shelf and I'm sure there is a quick and simple fix for
your application (dead-band and gain settings). In my opinion, you are
simply wasting time on the forums for this kind of issue...go to the source.
James Redmon
Berkut #013/Race 13
www.berkut13.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 12:05 AM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Trio altitude hold system
>
> Or if the servo is not fast enough to stop the natural plungoid pitch
> cycle and makes it divergent. We have the same issue in Glasairs with
> STEC AP's the servo is too slow and the aircraft just keeps pitching
> up/down in ever increasing cycles. The cure is to increase the servo
> response time. In an STEC it means changing out a resistor, I don't know
> how it's done on the Trio.
>
> Bruce
> WWW.Glasair.org
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Trio altitude hold system |
Good advice, but useless. I have been talking to them for the last three
months, they can not figure it out,
Franz
On 08/04/09 9:26 PM, "berkut13@berkut13.com" <berkut13@berkut13.com> wrote:
>
> I must have missed the beginning of the thread...but whoever started it -
> stop typing, pick up the phone and call Trio.
>
> Their support is top-shelf and I'm sure there is a quick and simple fix for
> your application (dead-band and gain settings). In my opinion, you are
> simply wasting time on the forums for this kind of issue...go to the source.
>
> James Redmon
> Berkut #013/Race 13
> www.berkut13.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 12:05 AM
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Trio altitude hold system
>
>
>>
>> Or if the servo is not fast enough to stop the natural plungoid pitch
>> cycle and makes it divergent. We have the same issue in Glasairs with
>> STEC AP's the servo is too slow and the aircraft just keeps pitching
>> up/down in ever increasing cycles. The cure is to increase the servo
>> response time. In an STEC it means changing out a resistor, I don't know
>> how it's done on the Trio.
>>
>> Bruce
>> WWW.Glasair.org
>
>
>
>
>
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