AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Sun 04/12/09


Total Messages Posted: 15



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 01:06 AM - Re: Dynon Ammeter Shunt (Vincent Himsl)
     2. 04:24 AM - Re: Com Antenna Install (Neal George)
     3. 04:51 AM - Re: Crimping lugs onto CCA Cable (Joe)
     4. 07:18 AM - Re: Crimping lugs onto CCA Cable (Eric M. Jones)
     5. 08:14 AM - Re: Com Antenna Install (Mike Humphrey)
     6. 09:05 AM - Re: Re: Crimping lugs onto CCA Cable (Paul McAllister)
     7. 09:19 AM - Re: Re: Crimping lugs onto CCA Cable (Sam Hoskins)
     8. 12:50 PM - Re: Com Antenna Install (Charlie England)
     9. 07:08 PM - Re: Com Antenna Install (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    10. 07:09 PM - Re: Com Antenna Install (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    11. 07:09 PM - Re: Com Antenna Install (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    12. 07:14 PM - Re: Ford alternator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    13. 07:19 PM - Re: E-Bus Alt Feed wire size (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    14. 08:36 PM - Comm will not transmit with audio panel installed (CRAIG LAPORTE)
    15. 11:41 PM - Re: Comm will not transmit with audio panel installed (Vincent Himsl)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 01:06:16 AM PST US
    From: Vincent Himsl <vshimsl@live.com>
    Subject: Dynon Ammeter Shunt
    Your Dynon D180 Manual has a section that gives you three options and expla ins what each option will show you. I chose option A in my manual. This opt ion shows charge going into the battery as plus amps and charge leaving the battery as negative. If yours doesn't show you this=2C then you can download the D180 manual fro m Dynon. Regards=2C Vince H. RV8 - Taxi Tests > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dynon Ammeter Shunt > From: ldwhitlow@comcast.net > Date: Sat=2C 11 Apr 2009 20:40:09 -0700 > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > t> > > Ok one more question > > I have a Jab 3300 on my 601 XL i'm using a DYNON EMS-D120 > > Where should I connect the shunt to be the most useful > > Ive seen a diagram floating around showing the various connection options and what you wind up measuring but I can't seen to find it now and I'm hot and heavy into pulling wire. > > Thanks in advance > > Larry > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238745#238745 > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live=99: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_allup_1a_explore_042009


    Message 2


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    Time: 04:24:04 AM PST US
    From: "Neal George" <n8zg@mchsi.com>
    Subject: Com Antenna Install
    Larry - It's not the best we know how to do, but if you're dead-set on this device... Strip the outer jacket off the RG-400 and un-braid the shield. Pull the shield wire to one side, twist and crimp on a terminal. Attach the shield to a screw thru the aircraft skin near the antenna base. Antennas similar to the COMANT CI-122 are much more user-friendly. neal ==================== Hi All Attached is a picture of my COM antenna. To be mounted in the reinforced portion of the turtledeck on the upper rear of the Baggage area on my Zenith 601XL Question is How do I hook it up?? Crimp a ring terminal on to the center conductor of the RG-400 and attach that with the nut to the bottom of the antenna, and attach another ring terminal to the shield and connect it to WHERE??? Help me or gurus of the RF Larry


    Message 3


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    Time: 04:51:56 AM PST US
    From: "Joe" <fran5sew@banyanol.com>
    Subject: Re: Crimping lugs onto CCA Cable
    Paul, Solder wicking into the cable is only an issue if the cable is subject to vibration. If the cable is supported about 3 inches from the soldered terminal, then it will not vibrate or break, located far from the engine. The cable could be clamped to the battery hold-down bracket or adjacent structure. Joe


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:18:49 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Crimping lugs onto CCA Cable
    From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
    Paul, My website has instructions for crimp+solder being the preferred method, but certainly there are people who only crimp the CCA cable. By the way, if you search Ebay for "hammer crimper" you will find an amazing deal: Hammer On Welding Cable Lug Crimper - NEW! LENCO # 840. You can have one of these for about $20 delivered! They are the perfect tool for this application. As I have mentioned before, plain aluminum cable has a vast and complex problem history. Engineers spend their lives on the problem, but CCA has had NO PROBLEM HISTORY at all. I have sold more of this to military aircraft builders than I have ever sold to the Experimental community. I also have sold this to NASCAR, Indy, and dragster builders. The Tesla Electric car uses it, as does Airbus and Boeing. Please read my technical notes on the subject: http://www.periheliondesign.com/fatwires_files/Copper%20cables.pdf "The problem with the world is that only the intelligent people want to be smarter, and only the good people want to improve." - Eolake Stobblehouse -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones@charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238774#238774


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:14:34 AM PST US
    From: "Mike Humphrey" <mike109g6@insideconnect.net>
    Subject: Re: Com Antenna Install
    Larry, The RG-400 has an insulated solid core wire that uses a particular connector as explained in the AeroElectric manual. The antenna that you show uses a ring terminal for attachment. Better ask Bob on this one. Mike H ----- Original Message ----- From: "lwhitlow" <ldwhitlow@comcast.net> Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 11:36 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Com Antenna Install > <ldwhitlow@comcast.net> > > Hi All > > Attached is a picture of my COM antenna. To be mounted in the reinforced > portion of the turtledeck on the upper rear of the Baggage area on my > Zenith 601XL > > Question is How do I hook it up?? Crimp a ring terminal on to the center > conductor of the RG-400 and attach that with the nut to the bottom of the > antenna, and attach another ring terminal to the shield and connect it to > WHERE??? > > Help me or gurus of the RF > Larry > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238744#238744 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0111_137.jpg > > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 09:05:38 AM PST US
    From: Paul McAllister <l_luv2_fly@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Crimping lugs onto CCA Cable
    Hi Eric, Thanks for your reply.- In particular I was looking for assurance that "c reeping" or "flowing" of the aluminum over time was not an issue.- It see ms like there is enough in service history that tells us it isn't a problem . I understand the I could also solder them and although it is possible with the correct technique to stop the solder wicking down the cable it isn't pa rticularly easy to prevent it from happening. Thanks again,- Paul =0A=0A=0A


    Message 7


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    Time: 09:19:03 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Crimping lugs onto CCA Cable
    From: Sam Hoskins <sam.hoskins@gmail.com>
    I was the person that had the problem with the solder wicking. After I followed Bob's advice, the problem disappeared. The main thing was to ensure that I had plenty of copper nails stuffed into the opening, to make it as tight as possible. Sam On Sun, Apr 12, 2009 at 11:03 AM, Paul McAllister <l_luv2_fly@yahoo.com> wrote: > Hi Eric, > > Thanks for your reply. In particular I was looking for assurance that > "creeping" or "flowing" of the aluminum over time was not an issue. It > seems like there is enough in service history that tells us it isn't a > problem. > > I understand the I could also solder them and although it is possible with > the correct technique to stop the solder wicking down the cable it isn't > particularly easy to prevent it from happening. > > Thanks again, Paul > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 12:50:16 PM PST US
    From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: Com Antenna Install
    The shield wire should connect to the skin (that will serve as your ground plane) somewhere close & convenient to the antenna. You could make your reinforcement plate big enough to bend a tab on one edge, or add a tab under one of the rivets, to bolt the shield eyelet to. Just be sure that you have good electrical contact from shield-eyelet-bolt-tab-doubler-skin. If you don't mind an extra connector showing, use a screw through the skin-ring terminal to reduce odds of ground loss. Charlie ________________________________ From: lwhitlow <ldwhitlow@comcast.net> Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 10:36:40 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Com Antenna Install Hi All Attached is a picture of my COM antenna. To be mounted in the reinforced portion of the turtledeck on the upper rear of the Baggage area on my Zenith 601XL Question is How do I hook it up?? Crimp a ring terminal on to the center conductor of the RG-400 and attach that with the nut to the bottom of the antenna, and attach another ring terminal to the shield and connect it to WHERE??? Help me or gurus of the RF Larry Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238744#238744 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0111_137.jpg


    Message 9


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    Time: 07:08:30 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Com Antenna Install
    At 10:36 PM 4/11/2009, you wrote: > >Hi All > >Attached is a picture of my COM antenna. To be mounted in the >reinforced portion of the turtledeck on the upper rear of the >Baggage area on my Zenith 601XL > >Question is How do I hook it up?? Crimp a ring terminal on to the >center conductor of the RG-400 and attach that with the nut to the >bottom of the antenna, and attach another ring terminal to the >shield and connect it to WHERE??? > >Help me or gurus of the RF This style of antenna was used in QUANTITY at Cessna and other single engine aircraft way back when. By "way back" I mean the times when these radios were the best we knew how to do. http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Radios/P1012765.JPG http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Radios/P1012780.JPG The antennas fell in disfavor mostly because they were difficult to keep stationary. They would "spin" in the insulator and often break the center conductor connection. Secondly, they were labor intensive to install compared to their factory built descendants. About the time these radios . . . http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Radios/P1012763.JPG were the best we knew how to do, the single whisker mounted on a ceramic feed-thru was pretty much history. You can still buy this style antenna. Several versions offer a large ring terminal to install under the skin and over the hole that mounts the antenna insulator. Definitely NOT gas-tight to the skin. If your kit came with this terminal, pitch the terminal. I've been fiddling with a DIY comm antenna fabrication technique that ends up with a base that looks like this. http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Antenna/DIY_Comm_Antenna.jpg The materials are common hardware and CB radio accessory store items. This design offers a coax connector to attache the feed line, good anti-rotation features by virtue of the two screws through grounding tabs and the opportunity to get a gas-tight ground connection (#8 screws tightened down really good). For your application, consider the technique shown here: http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Antenna/Figure_13-8.pdf Prepare your coax connections thusly: http://aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire/shldwire.html Make the shortest practical connection between the antenna and coax . . . i.e. minimize length of exposed center conductor and braid pigtail. SWR of antenna installed thusly? Adequate. Performance? Also adequate. Cost of ownership? Remains to be seen. These have the potential for being more problematic than their modern factory built counterparts. Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 10


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    Time: 07:09:47 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Com Antenna Install
    At 02:45 PM 4/12/2009, you wrote: >The shield wire should connect to the skin (that will serve as your >ground plane) somewhere close & convenient to the antenna. <snip> >If you don't mind an extra connector showing, use a screw through >the skin-ring terminal to reduce odds of ground loss. > >Charlie Right on!


    Message 11


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    Time: 07:09:52 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Com Antenna Install
    At 10:12 AM 4/12/2009, you wrote: ><mike109g6@insideconnect.net> > >Larry, >The RG-400 has an insulated solid core wire that uses a particular >connector as explained in the AeroElectric manual. The antenna that >you show uses a ring terminal for attachment. Better ask Bob on this one. >Mike H Oh yeah. Larry, be sure to use RG400 for this install, it has a stranded center conductor. RG142 is identical in performance but has a solid center conductor. Thank's for reminding me Mike! Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 12


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    Time: 07:14:40 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Ford alternator
    At 03:34 PM 4/10/2009, you wrote: >Does a Ford-type alternator self excite? If not, how much battery >voltage is needed to excite it? Don't know what a "ford-type" alternator is. There are hundreds of part numbers for alternators have have been used on Ford products most of which behave like the majority of alternators since day-one. They do not self-excite at normal engine operating speeds. However, at speeds typical of a belted Lycoming installation I'm thinking that most alternators will come on line without a battery. They only need to see about 1 to 1.5 volts at the b-lead terminal to come alive. This is a function of residual magnetism in the field core, speed of rotation and loads on the system. Best advice I can offer is don't depend on it. Bob . . .


    Message 13


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    Time: 07:19:50 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: E-Bus Alt Feed wire size
    At 02:00 PM 4/10/2009, you wrote: > >RV8 with aft mounted battery and Z11 design. How much larger should >the wire be from battery to "Always on Buss" and from "Always on >Buss" to "E Bus Alternate Feed"? I estimate 20amp draw max from the E Bus. You need to size it for 20A then. That would be a 12AWG wire. >I've read about the Z32 Heavy Duty E bus Feed and would prefer to >not have to do this. Even considering placing the battery on the >firewall if I have to. The recommendations for locating components, putting limits on lengths of always hot wire and limiting the energy that the wire can dump during a crash event are based on no particular science (i.e. no repeatable experiment). Therefore, the recommendations can be said to come from where the sun don't shine . . . but based on decades of anecdotal observation. If you wish to depart from those recommendations, it's your choice entirely. What's wrong with the e-bus alternate feed relay? It's backed up by the normal feed path. Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 14


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    Time: 08:36:39 PM PST US
    From: CRAIG LAPORTE <claporte75@msn.com>
    Subject: Comm will not transmit with audio panel installed
    Hello=2C I have recently completed the installation of an avionics wiring harness (c ompleted at an avionics shop)=2C and I have a perplexing problem of trying to get comm 1 to transmit...here are the details: Microair 760 as comm1 on KMA 24 audio panel with Sigtronics sport 200 inter com...SL-30 as comm 2. The ptt switch activates the SL-30 to TX every time as expected (the only i ssue is a squeal during transmit...another issue all together...the squeal is nil at 118.0 and loud at 134.95)=2C and my swr meter shows power and swr coming from this radio during TX. The ptt will only activate the red TX indication on the Microair 760 about half of the time=2C (with the audio panel installed)=2C and at no time (eve n with the red TX light on) does the swr meter show power or swr coming fro m this radio. Now=2C to get creative=2C I removed the audio panel and located the Comm 1 mic key position on the KMA 24 connector=2C (pin R) and when I connect this pin to ground=2C the red TX indicator shows every time....and the swr mete r shows power and swr. So=2C I thought that maybe comm 1 mic key and comm 1 mic audio might be in the wrong positions...I switched them=2C and the radio went to transmit mod e (continuous..until the audio panel was removed). So=2C with the pins bac k in there original spots=2C I am thinking that the Microair 760 wiring mig ht have something preventing it from being told to transmit through an audi o panel? This is also the second audio panel I have tried to no avail. Al so=2C I checked to continuity of the inner conductor and outer shield of bo th coax cables going to the antennas (both belly mounted...I have tried rem oving one of the antennas on the non-transmitting radio of course). I have also changed out the pin located at position R in the audio panel connecto r (Com 1 mic key). I don't know what to try next...any ideas would be grea tly appreciated! Thanks=2C Craig


    Message 15


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    Time: 11:41:16 PM PST US
    From: Vincent Himsl <vshimsl@live.com>
    Subject: Comm will not transmit with audio panel installed
    Hello=2C I had a squeal and no transmit on my King Radio. I had installed fiber wash ers on both jacks thinking I would prevent ground loops. When I used a jump er to ground the jacks to the panel=2C the squeal stopped and the radio wor ked. I removed the fiber washers effectively grounding the jack (sleeve I b elieve). Though you mention other issues (PTT for one) I think the key symp tom is the squeal. I would suggest you divide and conquer. Pretend you have one radio. Make a temporary jack panel and connect directly to each radio with your headset. If it has a built in push to talk switch=2C all the better. Make sure the temporary panel and by default the headset jacks are properly grounded. If both radios work then you need to focus on the wiring to the audio panel. T he fact you have replaced the audio panel leads me to believe it is ok. If both radios have problems=2C then again I suggest you inspect the jack w iring as the odds on both radios having the same problem at the same time a re a bit remote. I would suspect least the coax / antennae. There is an excellent drawing with colored pictures of the jacks at Bob's a eroelectric site. The above will at least help you isolate it to a single device. I submit my reply as your problem sounded suspiciously similar to mine. The more I think about it=2C it sounds like the headset connection is not grou nded properly causing the keying voltage to be fed through the transmit cir cuitry. But then again=2C I could be really full of it. Good Luck Vince H. RV8 N8432 - Taxi Tests and oh so close! From: claporte75@msn.com Subject: AeroElectric-List: Comm will not transmit with audio panel install ed Hello=2C I have recently completed the installation of an avionics wiring harness (c ompleted at an avionics shop)=2C and I have a perplexing problem of trying to get comm 1 to transmit...here are the details..... _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live=99: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_allup_1a_explore_042009




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