Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:06 AM - Re: Dynon Ammeter Shunt (Vincent Himsl)
2. 04:24 AM - Re: Com Antenna Install (Neal George)
3. 04:51 AM - Re: Crimping lugs onto CCA Cable (Joe)
4. 07:18 AM - Re: Crimping lugs onto CCA Cable (Eric M. Jones)
5. 08:14 AM - Re: Com Antenna Install (Mike Humphrey)
6. 09:05 AM - Re: Re: Crimping lugs onto CCA Cable (Paul McAllister)
7. 09:19 AM - Re: Re: Crimping lugs onto CCA Cable (Sam Hoskins)
8. 12:50 PM - Re: Com Antenna Install (Charlie England)
9. 07:08 PM - Re: Com Antenna Install (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 07:09 PM - Re: Com Antenna Install (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 07:09 PM - Re: Com Antenna Install (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 07:14 PM - Re: Ford alternator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 07:19 PM - Re: E-Bus Alt Feed wire size (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 08:36 PM - Comm will not transmit with audio panel installed (CRAIG LAPORTE)
15. 11:41 PM - Re: Comm will not transmit with audio panel installed (Vincent Himsl)
Message 1
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Subject: | Dynon Ammeter Shunt |
Your Dynon D180 Manual has a section that gives you three options and expla
ins what each option will show you. I chose option A in my manual. This opt
ion shows charge going into the battery as plus amps and charge leaving the
battery as negative.
If yours doesn't show you this=2C then you can download the D180 manual fro
m Dynon.
Regards=2C
Vince H.
RV8 - Taxi Tests
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dynon Ammeter Shunt
> From: ldwhitlow@comcast.net
> Date: Sat=2C 11 Apr 2009 20:40:09 -0700
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>
t>
>
> Ok one more question
>
> I have a Jab 3300 on my 601 XL i'm using a DYNON EMS-D120
>
> Where should I connect the shunt to be the most useful
>
> Ive seen a diagram floating around showing the various connection options
and what you wind up measuring but I can't seen to find it now and I'm hot
and heavy into pulling wire.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Larry
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238745#238745
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
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Message 2
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Subject: | Com Antenna Install |
Larry -
It's not the best we know how to do, but if you're dead-set on this
device...
Strip the outer jacket off the RG-400 and un-braid the shield. Pull the
shield wire to one side, twist and crimp on a terminal. Attach the shield
to a screw thru the aircraft skin near the antenna base.
Antennas similar to the COMANT CI-122 are much more user-friendly.
neal
====================
Hi All
Attached is a picture of my COM antenna. To be mounted in the reinforced
portion of the turtledeck on the upper rear of the Baggage area on my Zenith
601XL
Question is How do I hook it up?? Crimp a ring terminal on to the center
conductor of the RG-400 and attach that with the nut to the bottom of the
antenna, and attach another ring terminal to the shield and connect it to
WHERE???
Help me or gurus of the RF
Larry
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Crimping lugs onto CCA Cable |
Paul,
Solder wicking into the cable is only an issue if the cable is subject
to vibration. If the cable is supported about 3 inches from the
soldered terminal, then it will not vibrate or break, located far from
the engine. The cable could be clamped to the battery hold-down bracket
or adjacent structure.
Joe
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Crimping lugs onto CCA Cable |
Paul,
My website has instructions for crimp+solder being the preferred method, but certainly
there are people who only crimp the CCA cable.
By the way, if you search Ebay for "hammer crimper" you will find an amazing deal:
Hammer On Welding Cable Lug Crimper - NEW! LENCO # 840. You can have one of
these for about $20 delivered! They are the perfect tool for this application.
As I have mentioned before, plain aluminum cable has a vast and complex problem
history. Engineers spend their lives on the problem, but CCA has had NO PROBLEM
HISTORY at all.
I have sold more of this to military aircraft builders than I have ever sold to
the Experimental community. I also have sold this to NASCAR, Indy, and dragster
builders. The Tesla Electric car uses it, as does Airbus and Boeing.
Please read my technical notes on the subject:
http://www.periheliondesign.com/fatwires_files/Copper%20cables.pdf
"The problem with the world is that only the intelligent people want to be
smarter, and only the good people want to improve."
- Eolake Stobblehouse
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238774#238774
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Com Antenna Install |
Larry,
The RG-400 has an insulated solid core wire that uses a particular connector
as explained in the AeroElectric manual. The antenna that you show uses a
ring terminal for attachment. Better ask Bob on this one.
Mike H
----- Original Message -----
From: "lwhitlow" <ldwhitlow@comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 11:36 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Com Antenna Install
> <ldwhitlow@comcast.net>
>
> Hi All
>
> Attached is a picture of my COM antenna. To be mounted in the reinforced
> portion of the turtledeck on the upper rear of the Baggage area on my
> Zenith 601XL
>
> Question is How do I hook it up?? Crimp a ring terminal on to the center
> conductor of the RG-400 and attach that with the nut to the bottom of the
> antenna, and attach another ring terminal to the shield and connect it to
> WHERE???
>
> Help me or gurus of the RF
> Larry
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238744#238744
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0111_137.jpg
>
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Crimping lugs onto CCA Cable |
Hi Eric,
Thanks for your reply.- In particular I was looking for assurance that "c
reeping" or "flowing" of the aluminum over time was not an issue.- It see
ms like there is enough in service history that tells us it isn't a problem
.
I understand the I could also solder them and although it is possible with
the correct technique to stop the solder wicking down the cable it isn't pa
rticularly easy to prevent it from happening.
Thanks again,- Paul
=0A=0A=0A
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Crimping lugs onto CCA Cable |
I was the person that had the problem with the solder wicking. After
I followed Bob's advice, the problem disappeared.
The main thing was to ensure that I had plenty of copper nails stuffed
into the opening, to make it as tight as possible.
Sam
On Sun, Apr 12, 2009 at 11:03 AM, Paul McAllister <l_luv2_fly@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi Eric,
>
> Thanks for your reply. In particular I was looking for assurance that
> "creeping" or "flowing" of the aluminum over time was not an issue. It
> seems like there is enough in service history that tells us it isn't a
> problem.
>
> I understand the I could also solder them and although it is possible with
> the correct technique to stop the solder wicking down the cable it isn't
> particularly easy to prevent it from happening.
>
> Thanks again, Paul
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Com Antenna Install |
The shield wire should connect to the skin (that will serve as your ground plane)
somewhere close & convenient to the antenna. You could make your reinforcement
plate big enough to bend a tab on one edge, or add a tab under one of the
rivets, to bolt the shield eyelet to. Just be sure that you have good electrical
contact from shield-eyelet-bolt-tab-doubler-skin. If you don't mind an extra
connector showing, use a screw through the skin-ring terminal to reduce odds
of ground loss.
Charlie
________________________________
From: lwhitlow <ldwhitlow@comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 10:36:40 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Com Antenna Install
Hi All
Attached is a picture of my COM antenna. To be mounted in the reinforced portion
of the turtledeck on the upper rear of the Baggage area on my Zenith 601XL
Question is How do I hook it up?? Crimp a ring terminal on to the center conductor
of the RG-400 and attach that with the nut to the bottom of the antenna,
and attach another ring terminal to the shield and connect it to WHERE???
Help me or gurus of the RF
Larry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238744#238744
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0111_137.jpg
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Com Antenna Install |
At 10:36 PM 4/11/2009, you wrote:
>
>Hi All
>
>Attached is a picture of my COM antenna. To be mounted in the
>reinforced portion of the turtledeck on the upper rear of the
>Baggage area on my Zenith 601XL
>
>Question is How do I hook it up?? Crimp a ring terminal on to the
>center conductor of the RG-400 and attach that with the nut to the
>bottom of the antenna, and attach another ring terminal to the
>shield and connect it to WHERE???
>
>Help me or gurus of the RF
This style of antenna was used in QUANTITY at Cessna and
other single engine aircraft way back when. By "way back"
I mean the times when these radios were the best we knew
how to do.
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Radios/P1012765.JPG
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Radios/P1012780.JPG
The antennas fell in disfavor mostly because they were
difficult to keep stationary. They would "spin" in the
insulator and often break the center conductor connection.
Secondly, they were labor intensive to install compared
to their factory built descendants. About the time
these radios . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Radios/P1012763.JPG
were the best we knew how to do, the single whisker
mounted on a ceramic feed-thru was pretty much
history. You can still buy this style antenna. Several
versions offer a large ring terminal to install under
the skin and over the hole that mounts the antenna
insulator. Definitely NOT gas-tight to the skin.
If your kit came with this terminal, pitch the
terminal.
I've been fiddling with a DIY comm antenna fabrication
technique that ends up with a base that looks like this.
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Antenna/DIY_Comm_Antenna.jpg
The materials are common hardware and CB radio accessory
store items. This design offers a coax connector to
attache the feed line, good anti-rotation features by
virtue of the two screws through grounding tabs and
the opportunity to get a gas-tight ground connection
(#8 screws tightened down really good).
For your application, consider the technique shown
here:
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Antenna/Figure_13-8.pdf
Prepare your coax connections thusly:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire/shldwire.html
Make the shortest practical connection between
the antenna and coax . . . i.e. minimize length
of exposed center conductor and braid pigtail.
SWR of antenna installed thusly? Adequate. Performance?
Also adequate. Cost of ownership? Remains to be seen.
These have the potential for being more problematic
than their modern factory built counterparts.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Com Antenna Install |
At 02:45 PM 4/12/2009, you wrote:
>The shield wire should connect to the skin (that will serve as your
>ground plane) somewhere close & convenient to the antenna.
<snip>
>If you don't mind an extra connector showing, use a screw through
>the skin-ring terminal to reduce odds of ground loss.
>
>Charlie
Right on!
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Com Antenna Install |
At 10:12 AM 4/12/2009, you wrote:
><mike109g6@insideconnect.net>
>
>Larry,
>The RG-400 has an insulated solid core wire that uses a particular
>connector as explained in the AeroElectric manual. The antenna that
>you show uses a ring terminal for attachment. Better ask Bob on this one.
>Mike H
Oh yeah. Larry, be sure to use RG400 for this
install, it has a stranded center conductor.
RG142 is identical in performance but has a
solid center conductor.
Thank's for reminding me Mike!
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Ford alternator |
At 03:34 PM 4/10/2009, you wrote:
>Does a Ford-type alternator self excite? If not, how much battery
>voltage is needed to excite it?
Don't know what a "ford-type" alternator is. There
are hundreds of part numbers for alternators have
have been used on Ford products most of which
behave like the majority of alternators since
day-one. They do not self-excite at normal engine
operating speeds.
However, at speeds typical of a belted Lycoming
installation I'm thinking that most alternators
will come on line without a battery. They only
need to see about 1 to 1.5 volts at the b-lead
terminal to come alive. This is a function of
residual magnetism in the field core, speed
of rotation and loads on the system.
Best advice I can offer is don't depend on it.
Bob . . .
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: E-Bus Alt Feed wire size |
At 02:00 PM 4/10/2009, you wrote:
>
>RV8 with aft mounted battery and Z11 design. How much larger should
>the wire be from battery to "Always on Buss" and from "Always on
>Buss" to "E Bus Alternate Feed"? I estimate 20amp draw max from the E Bus.
You need to size it for 20A then. That would be a 12AWG
wire.
>I've read about the Z32 Heavy Duty E bus Feed and would prefer to
>not have to do this. Even considering placing the battery on the
>firewall if I have to.
The recommendations for locating components,
putting limits on lengths of always hot wire
and limiting the energy that the wire can
dump during a crash event are based on no
particular science (i.e. no repeatable
experiment). Therefore, the recommendations
can be said to come from where the sun don't
shine . . . but based on decades of anecdotal
observation.
If you wish to depart from those recommendations,
it's your choice entirely.
What's wrong with the e-bus alternate feed
relay? It's backed up by the normal feed path.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 14
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Subject: | Comm will not transmit with audio panel installed |
Hello=2C
I have recently completed the installation of an avionics wiring harness (c
ompleted at an avionics shop)=2C and I have a perplexing problem of trying
to get comm 1 to transmit...here are the details:
Microair 760 as comm1 on KMA 24 audio panel with Sigtronics sport 200 inter
com...SL-30 as comm 2.
The ptt switch activates the SL-30 to TX every time as expected (the only i
ssue is a squeal during transmit...another issue all together...the squeal
is nil at 118.0 and loud at 134.95)=2C and my swr meter shows power and swr
coming from this radio during TX.
The ptt will only activate the red TX indication on the Microair 760 about
half of the time=2C (with the audio panel installed)=2C and at no time (eve
n with the red TX light on) does the swr meter show power or swr coming fro
m this radio.
Now=2C to get creative=2C I removed the audio panel and located the Comm 1
mic key position on the KMA 24 connector=2C (pin R) and when I connect this
pin to ground=2C the red TX indicator shows every time....and the swr mete
r shows power and swr.
So=2C I thought that maybe comm 1 mic key and comm 1 mic audio might be in
the wrong positions...I switched them=2C and the radio went to transmit mod
e (continuous..until the audio panel was removed). So=2C with the pins bac
k in there original spots=2C I am thinking that the Microair 760 wiring mig
ht have something preventing it from being told to transmit through an audi
o panel? This is also the second audio panel I have tried to no avail. Al
so=2C I checked to continuity of the inner conductor and outer shield of bo
th coax cables going to the antennas (both belly mounted...I have tried rem
oving one of the antennas on the non-transmitting radio of course). I have
also changed out the pin located at position R in the audio panel connecto
r (Com 1 mic key). I don't know what to try next...any ideas would be grea
tly appreciated!
Thanks=2C
Craig
Message 15
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Subject: | Comm will not transmit with audio panel installed |
Hello=2C
I had a squeal and no transmit on my King Radio. I had installed fiber wash
ers on both jacks thinking I would prevent ground loops. When I used a jump
er to ground the jacks to the panel=2C the squeal stopped and the radio wor
ked. I removed the fiber washers effectively grounding the jack (sleeve I b
elieve). Though you mention other issues (PTT for one) I think the key symp
tom is the squeal.
I would suggest you divide and conquer. Pretend you have one radio. Make a
temporary jack panel and connect directly to each radio with your headset.
If it has a built in push to talk switch=2C all the better. Make sure the
temporary panel and by default the headset jacks are properly grounded. If
both radios work then you need to focus on the wiring to the audio panel. T
he fact you have replaced the audio panel leads me to believe it is ok.
If both radios have problems=2C then again I suggest you inspect the jack w
iring as the odds on both radios having the same problem at the same time a
re a bit remote.
I would suspect least the coax / antennae.
There is an excellent drawing with colored pictures of the jacks at Bob's a
eroelectric site.
The above will at least help you isolate it to a single device.
I submit my reply as your problem sounded suspiciously similar to mine. The
more I think about it=2C it sounds like the headset connection is not grou
nded properly causing the keying voltage to be fed through the transmit cir
cuitry.
But then again=2C I could be really full of it.
Good Luck
Vince H.
RV8 N8432 - Taxi Tests and oh so close!
From: claporte75@msn.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Comm will not transmit with audio panel install
ed
Hello=2C
I have recently completed the installation of an avionics wiring harness (c
ompleted at an avionics shop)=2C and I have a perplexing problem of trying
to get comm 1 to transmit...here are the details.....
_________________________________________________________________
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