AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Mon 05/04/09


Total Messages Posted: 20



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:55 AM - What can GPS and XM antennas see through? ()
     2. 04:33 AM - Re: System Off Current Requirements... (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     3. 04:36 AM - off-line for most of the week . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     4. 06:40 AM - Re: System Off Current Requirements... (Ian)
     5. 07:10 AM - Re: What can GPS and XM antennas see through? (paul wilson)
     6. 07:49 AM - Re: System Off Current Requirements... (The Kuffels)
     7. 08:04 AM - Re: What can GPS and XM antennas see through? (Rob du Plooy)
     8. 08:21 AM - Re: Recommendation for schematic using only 1 B&C PM alternator/Dual Lightspeed II (Kevin Sheely)
     9. 09:12 AM - Re: What can GPS and XM antennas see through? (mchristian@canetics.com)
    10. 10:23 AM - Re: What can GPS and XM antennas see through? ()
    11. 10:23 AM - Re: System Off Current Requirements... (David LLoyd)
    12. 10:24 AM - Re: Re: What can GPS and XM antennas see through? (David LLoyd)
    13. 11:24 AM - Re: Solar chargers (was System Off Current Requirements...) (Carlos Trigo)
    14. 11:55 AM - Tunnel grounding (woxofswa)
    15. 12:21 PM - Soldering Micro Switches ()
    16. 01:16 PM - Re: Solar chargers (was System Off Current Requirements...) (David LLoyd)
    17. 01:20 PM - Re: Tunnel grounding (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
    18. 01:45 PM - Re: Soldering Micro Switches (Bob White)
    19. 07:31 PM - Re: Soldering Micro Switches (Richard E. Tasker)
    20. 09:55 PM - Reducing RF noise for a Luxeon PowerPuck (Ralph Finch)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 03:55:44 AM PST US
    From: <bakerocb@cox.net>
    Subject: What can GPS and XM antennas see through?
    5/4/2009 Hello Chris, When I discussed this subject with a Garmin technical rep he said that placing the antenna for my GNS 430 inside the fiberglass fuselage molding of my KIS TR-1 should not be a problem, but that mounting the antenna on an aluminum plate would help shield the antenna from electromagnetic noise coming from below. I mounted the antenna on an aluminum shelf inside the fuselage molding between the firewall and the instrument panel (lots of electromagnetic generating stuff in that area). The installation has worked perfectly -- I now have a 430W antenna in that location. 'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and understand knowledge." =================================================== Time: 03:19:57 PM PST US From: "cskelt@earthlink.net" <cskelt@earthlink.net> Subject: AeroElectric-List: What can GPS and XM antennas see through? Folks, I'm installing a Garmin 496 in my Lancair 320. The Garmin manual suggests placing the GPS and XM antennas supplied with the unit where they can see the sky through the canopy. This could be achieved by placing the two devices on the glare shield. However it would be an easier installation if I were to place the two antennas below the glare shield. This way, there'd be no awkward electrical connections to deal with when removing or replacing the glare shield. If the antennas can see through perspex, (or laminated auto glass) can they additionally see through the skinny fiberglass molding covered with headlining material? Thanks in advance for any advice. Chris Skelt.


    Message 2


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    Time: 04:33:57 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: System Off Current Requirements...
    At 03:03 PM 5/3/2009, you wrote: ><echristley@nc.rr.com> > >Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: >> >> If you were going to park the airplane for several >> months, then it would be a good idea to either disconnect >> the battery in a fully charged state . . . or leave >> a battery tender type charger attached for the duration >> of storage. >Just an idea. The battery on a Dyke Delta is accessed through an >external panel near the rear of the aircraft. I built my access >panel out of one of those solar trickle chargers. > >Two birds. One stone. > >Wait. Should I be talking about knocking down birds with rocks on this list? Solar chargers should be applied with understanding and some caution. These are rudimentary "trickle" chargers without regulation. Some readers of this forum many moons ago fitted solar chargers to their hangar roofs and left them attached to the battery for the duration of winter storage. They came back to find the battery trashed. AGM/SVLA batteries have exceedingly low self-discharge rates. If stored fully charged, they should start your engine a year later. But this thread started with a query about keep-alive currents that are perhaps 2 to 5 times the battery's self discharge rates. These are worthy of some external support if the airplane is not going to be flown for several weeks to months. Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 3


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    Time: 04:36:39 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: off-line for most of the week . . .
    I'm traveling to SoCal to work with clients on an electrical system architecture problem. I'll keep tabs on the List through the browser access utility on Matt's server but probably won't engage in any extended conversation. Will be back in Wichita Thursday if things go well, Friday if not so well. Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 4


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    Time: 06:40:44 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: System Off Current Requirements...
    From: Ian <ixb@videotron.ca>
    So is there any way to use solar to maintain the charge on my RV9A? How about connecting the panel to a 110V inverter and then back using a good quality maintenance charger? Would the losses in the conversion to 110V and back be too great for the tiny currents generated by a relatively small solar panel? Ian Brown, Bromont, Quebec ,On Mon, 2009-05-04 at 06:32 -0500, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > At 03:03 PM 5/3/2009, you wrote: > ><echristley@nc.rr.com> > > > >Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > >> > >> If you were going to park the airplane for several > >> months, then it would be a good idea to either disconnect > >> the battery in a fully charged state . . . or leave > >> a battery tender type charger attached for the duration > >> of storage. > >Just an idea. The battery on a Dyke Delta is accessed through an > >external panel near the rear of the aircraft. I built my access > >panel out of one of those solar trickle chargers. > > > >Two birds. One stone. > > > >Wait. Should I be talking about knocking down birds with rocks on this list? > > Solar chargers should be applied with understanding > and some caution. These are rudimentary "trickle" > chargers without regulation. Some readers of this > forum many moons ago fitted solar chargers to their > hangar roofs and left them attached to the battery > for the duration of winter storage. They came back > to find the battery trashed. > > AGM/SVLA batteries have exceedingly low self-discharge > rates. If stored fully charged, they should start your > engine a year later. But this thread started with > a query about keep-alive currents that are perhaps > 2 to 5 times the battery's self discharge rates. These > are worthy of some external support if the airplane > is not going to be flown for several weeks to months. > > > Bob . . . > > ----------------------------------------) > ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) > ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) > ( appearance of being right . . . ) > ( ) > ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) > ---------------------------------------- > > > > > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 07:10:30 AM PST US
    From: paul wilson <pwmac@sisna.com>
    Subject: What can GPS and XM antennas see through?
    Dirt simple test for your plane will yield the results you need. Example I use a gps in my truck with a solid metal roof 2 gps one with internal antenna one with external antenna laying on the dash. No reduction in sensitivity or position error is noted. In my other trucks one with sheet molded plastic roof and the other with a fiberglass shell. same result. Just find some material to match your construction and turn on the devices. I am sure you will find excellent results. These days antenna placement is not critical. Paul ======== At 05:08 PM 5/3/2009, you wrote: >Are there any published specs as to what materials, at what >thickness, satellite antennas can see through without a large >attenuation of signal strength? If so can you point me toward them? > >Thanks, > >Roger > > >Good Evening Chris, > >The antennas will look through that glareshield just fine. However, >you must remember that any distance below the very top of the >airplane will reduce the amount of sky that can be seen via the antennas. > >We have found that antennas mounted on top of the glove box and >under the glareshield work reasonably well in various Bonanzas. > >Happy Skies > >Old Bob > > >In a message dated 5/3/2009 5:21:28 P.M. Central Daylight Time, >cskelt@earthlink.net writes: >Folks, I'm installing a Garmin 496 in my Lancair 320. The Garmin >manual suggests placing the GPS and XM antennas supplied with the >unit where they can see the sky through the canopy. This could be >achieved by placing the two devices on the glare shield. However it >would be an easier installation if I were to place the two antennas >below the glare shield. This way, there'd be no awkward electrical >connections to deal with when removing or replacing the glare >shield. If the antennas can see through perspex, (or laminated auto >glass) can they additionally see through the skinny fiberglass >molding covered with headlining material? Thanks in advance for any advice. > >Chris Skelt. >__________________ > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 07:49:10 AM PST US
    From: "The Kuffels" <kuffel@cyberport.net>
    Subject: Re: System Off Current Requirements...
    Matt, << I built my access panel out of one of those solar trickle chargers.>> << Solar chargers should be applied with understanding and some caution. These are rudimentary "trickle" chargers without regulation. Some readers of this forum many moons ago fitted solar chargers to their hangar roofs and left them attached to the battery for the duration of winter storage. They came back to find the battery trashed. >> You might wish to consult the article by Jim Weir in January 2007 Kitplanes about building a smart solar charger. Tom Kuffel Whitefish, MT


    Message 7


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    Time: 08:04:25 AM PST US
    From: "Rob du Plooy" <rduplooy@iafrica.com>
    Subject: Re: What can GPS and XM antennas see through?
    Our Rv-4 has the antenna mounted in the same place ( As Dick Sipp- FWF under fibreglass cowling) for the Garmin XL250... Aquires satellites quickly, and navigates faultlessly to destinations...even after 300 hrs. Robert du Plooy > > > I have these antennas mounted ahead of the firewall under the ~1/8 thick > painted fiberglass cowling. No problems at one year in service. > I believe this is a relatively common practice in the RV community. > > Dick Sipp > RV10 N110DV > > > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 08:21:42 AM PST US
    From: "Kevin Sheely" <ksheely@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: Recommendation for schematic using only 1 B&C
    PM alternator/Dual Lightspeed II


    Message 9


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    Time: 09:12:54 AM PST US
    From: mchristian@canetics.com
    Subject: Re: What can GPS and XM antennas see through?
    On my Cirrus, the two GPS antennas are velcro'd to the underneath of the glareshield and they work just fine. Mike


    Message 10


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    Time: 10:23:54 AM PST US
    Subject: What can GPS and XM antennas see through?
    From: <longg@pjm.com>
    Chris, On my legacy I added a shelf to the side of the fuse just behind the storage bulkhead. The shelf is mounted about even with rudder channel. With the bulkhead cover on I still get great reception even in the hangar (door open). Here's a picture http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_hkAHk0Xu6wo/SHOnYZwaZwI/AAAAAAAAAZQ/RsdsLydOu7 0/s1600-h/IMG_1171.JPG From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of paul wilson Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 10:01 AM Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: What can GPS and XM antennas see through? Dirt simple test for your plane will yield the results you need. Example I use a gps in my truck with a solid metal roof 2 gps one with internal antenna one with external antenna laying on the dash. No reduction in sensitivity or position error is noted. In my other trucks one with sheet molded plastic roof and the other with a fiberglass shell. same result. Just find some material to match your construction and turn on the devices. I am sure you will find excellent results. These days antenna placement is not critical. Paul ======== At 05:08 PM 5/3/2009, you wrote: Are there any published specs as to what materials, at what thickness, satellite antennas can see through without a large attenuation of signal strength? If so can you point me toward them? Thanks, Roger Good Evening Chris, The antennas will look through that glareshield just fine. However, you must remember that any distance below the very top of the airplane will reduce the amount of sky that can be seen via the antennas. We have found that antennas mounted on top of the glove box and under the glareshield work reasonably well in various Bonanzas. Happy Skies Old Bob In a message dated 5/3/2009 5:21:28 P.M. Central Daylight Time, cskelt@earthlink.net writes: Folks, I'm installing a Garmin 496 in my Lancair 320. The Garmin manual suggests placing the GPS and XM antennas supplied with the unit where they can see the sky through the canopy. This could be achieved by placing the two devices on the glare shield. However it would be an easier installation if I were to place the two antennas below the glare shield. This way, there'd be no awkward electrical connections to deal with when removing or replacing the glare shield. If the antennas can see through perspex, (or laminated auto glass) can they additionally see through the skinny fiberglass molding covered with headlining material? Thanks in advance for any advice. Chris Skelt. __________________


    Message 11


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    Time: 10:23:54 AM PST US
    From: "David LLoyd" <skywagon@charter.net>
    Subject: Re: System Off Current Requirements...
    Tom is completely correct.... most so called 12 v. solar panels can go up as high as 18 v. Even though the current is small from a small wattage panel it can still gas out a 12 v. battery after time. Low power panels can be easily regulated with a simple zener diode or other similar solid state device. Just don't exceed the current that it can shunt. A panel with 0.25 amp of current should be capable of maintaining healthy batteries, but, it must be regulated to not go over about 13.2 v while charging. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "The Kuffels" <kuffel@cyberport.net> Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 7:22 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: System Off Current Requirements... > <kuffel@cyberport.net> > > Matt, > > << I built my access panel out of one of those solar trickle chargers.>> > > << Solar chargers should be applied with understanding > and some caution. These are rudimentary "trickle" > chargers without regulation. Some readers of this > forum many moons ago fitted solar chargers to their > hangar roofs and left them attached to the battery > for the duration of winter storage. They came back > to find the battery trashed. >> > > You might wish to consult the article by Jim Weir in January 2007 > Kitplanes about building a smart solar charger. > > Tom Kuffel > Whitefish, MT > > >


    Message 12


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    Time: 10:24:06 AM PST US
    From: "David LLoyd" <skywagon@charter.net>
    Subject: Re: What can GPS and XM antennas see through?
    All GPS antennas and receivers are not the same as we all know. Most do not like to have their antennas "shielded" by anything. That can includes ice and snow too. And, there are GPS units that use receivers so sensitive, they work just fine inside a building. Take the little Garmin portable, 60CSx is one. I do not know what gps chip set it uses, but, that little unit is a 100 fold more sensitive than our multi-thousand dollar units. Put it in your pocket or lunch box, sit under a grove of trees and it keeps ticking. So, go with the factory recommendation and give the antenna a free view of the sky. David ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob du Plooy" <rduplooy@iafrica.com> Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 7:59 AM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: What can GPS and XM antennas see through? > <rduplooy@iafrica.com> > > Our Rv-4 has the antenna mounted in the same place ( As Dick Sipp- FWF > under fibreglass cowling) for the Garmin XL250... > > Aquires satellites quickly, and navigates faultlessly to > destinations...even after 300 hrs. > > Robert du Plooy > > >> > >> I have these antennas mounted ahead of the firewall under the ~1/8 thick >> painted fiberglass cowling. No problems at one year in service. >> I believe this is a relatively common practice in the RV community. >> >> Dick Sipp >> RV10 N110DV >> >> >> >> > > > >


    Message 13


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    Time: 11:24:53 AM PST US
    From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo@mail.telepac.pt>
    Subject: Solar chargers (was System Off Current Requirements...)
    David For an electronically ignorant guy, which is the zener diode I should buy to regulate the current from a solar panel? How should it be installed? Carlos > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list- > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David LLoyd > Sent: segunda-feira, 4 de Maio de 2009 18:07 > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: System Off Current Requirements... > <skywagon@charter.net> > > Tom is completely correct.... most so called 12 v. solar panels can go up as > high as 18 v. Even though the current is small from a small wattage panel > it can still gas out a 12 v. battery after time. Low power panels can be > easily regulated with a simple zener diode or other similar solid state > device. Just don't exceed the current that it can shunt. A panel with 0.25 > amp of current should be capable of maintaining healthy batteries, but, it > must be regulated to not go over about 13.2 v while charging. > Dave > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "The Kuffels" <kuffel@cyberport.net> > To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 7:22 AM > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: System Off Current Requirements... > > > > <kuffel@cyberport.net> > > > > Matt, > > > > << I built my access panel out of one of those solar trickle chargers.>> > > > > << Solar chargers should be applied with understanding > > and some caution. These are rudimentary "trickle" > > chargers without regulation. Some readers of this > > forum many moons ago fitted solar chargers to their > > hangar roofs and left them attached to the battery > > for the duration of winter storage. They came back > > to find the battery trashed. >> > > > > You might wish to consult the article by Jim Weir in January 2007 > > Kitplanes about building a smart solar charger. > > > > Tom Kuffel > > Whitefish, MT > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 14


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    Time: 11:55:04 AM PST US
    Subject: Tunnel grounding
    From: "woxofswa" <woxof@aol.com>
    Hi guys, This is my first post on this forum. I am looking forward to learning at the knees of the braintrust. I just finished the 'lectric bible and really enjoyed it, (that which I could understand at least). I am building an RV-10 and have settled for now on the one battery two alternator scheme, and am planning to run a #2 ground wire from the (rear) batt to a forest of grounds at the firewall. My specific question for today has to do with grounding items in the center tunnel, specifically, the fuel totalizer, fuel pump, flap actuator, flap position selector, and a flap position sensor (wouldn't it be great if those two could be combined into one geewhiz?) At any rate, the question that I have on grounding those items is should I: 1. Ground each locally? 2. Run a separate ground for each to the front forest? 3. Run each to a mini forest in the tunnel that has its own ground wire to either the front ground forest or back to the battery? Thanks in advance. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242685#242685


    Message 15


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    Time: 12:21:19 PM PST US
    Subject: Soldering Micro Switches
    From: <longg@pjm.com>
    I probably don't have the touch of some of you really experienced soldering folks, but I'm trying to work on a technique for soldering those itsy-bitsy connectors on the micro-switches. I either touch the switch accidentally and melt the casing or heat up the connectors to the point that solder melts and then I sit there watching the connector sink or break off. Is there some best combination of heat / thin solder that works best for the micro switches and small LED lights that I might try? I suppose if you have the luxury of throwing your airplane on the workbench and putting the panel in a vice it may not be a problem. Trying to do this in the field holding 3 wires up with one hand and the soldering gun in another is a real pain. Suggestions appreciated. Thanks, Glenn


    Message 16


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    Time: 01:16:50 PM PST US
    From: "David LLoyd" <skywagon@charter.net>
    Subject: Re: Solar chargers (was System Off Current Requirements...)
    Carlos, If you are using a solar panel for example that puts out 1/4 amp. max current, then I would use a zener diode that is rated for 1/2 amp or more. I don't know the cost of zeners these days. The higher current types maybe nearly as cheap as the lower current models. Also, you need to buy one that the breakdown step, Vz, occurs at or near 13.2 v. If you can't find one at 13.2 then, get the next larger voltage. If the next available is too high but is the only available type, then, buy it, and some cheap 1 amp plain diodes as they can be used to bring the zener break voltage back down to the desired 13.2. Each diode connected in series with the zener, will drop the voltage approx. 0.5 to 0.6 volt. Thus, if you have a 14.2 v. zener and put 2 diodes in series with it, the final result will be a zener looking like it is regulating to about 13 to 13.2 v. which is what you are looking for. You also need a series resister to limit the shunted current in case a short occurs somewhere, At this point, you need to find a buddy that knows electronics and mention the idea to him and he will know how to wire it up or even find a one piece device that is better than a zener that is still cheap. You might wait until Bob returns and ask him the same question as he is super current on all the devices available today. I am a bit of a dinosaur being a retired EE engineer. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: Carlos Trigo To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 11:11 AM Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Solar chargers (was System Off Current Requirements...) David For an electronically ignorant guy, which is the zener diode I should buy to regulate the current from a solar panel? How should it be installed? Carlos > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list- > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David LLoyd > Sent: segunda-feira, 4 de Maio de 2009 18:07 > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: System Off Current Requirements... > <skywagon@charter.net> > > Tom is completely correct.... most so called 12 v. solar panels can go up as > high as 18 v. Even though the current is small from a small wattage panel > it can still gas out a 12 v. battery after time. Low power panels can be > easily regulated with a simple zener diode or other similar solid state > device. Just don't exceed the current that it can shunt. A panel with 0.25 > amp of current should be capable of maintaining healthy batteries, but, it > must be regulated to not go over about 13.2 v while charging. > Dave > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "The Kuffels" <kuffel@cyberport.net> > To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 7:22 AM > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: System Off Current Requirements... > > > > <kuffel@cyberport.net> > > > > Matt, > > > > << I built my access panel out of one of those solar trickle chargers.>> > > > > << Solar chargers should be applied with understanding > > and some caution. These are rudimentary "trickle" > > chargers without regulation. Some readers of this > > forum many moons ago fitted solar chargers to their > > hangar roofs and left them attached to the battery > > for the duration of winter storage. They came back > > to find the battery trashed. >> > > > > You might wish to consult the article by Jim Weir in January 2007 > > Kitplanes about building a smart solar charger. > > > > Tom Kuffel > > Whitefish, MT > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ========== > AeroElectric-List Email Forum - > browse > Un/Subscription, > FAQ, > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List > > ========== > bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > Forums! > > > > ========== > bsp; - List Contribution Web Site - > > bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > >


    Message 17


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    Time: 01:20:09 PM PST US
    From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Tunnel grounding
    Myron, I'm not an expert here but since I'm knee deep in my '10, I thought I'd share my thinking and doing at this point.... - I'm locally (on the tunnel structure) grounding all of the items you mentioned except for my GRT fuel flow sensor which is grounded on my forest of tabs. I figure the fuel flow sensor might be sensitive to ground issues. - I have my 2 batteries well grounded to the airframe using the approach Bob has documented on his site http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Battery_Grounds/Battery_Grounds.html - I have a forest of tabs on the firewall but I ran a #8 cable to it. Most of my panel is run to it. I'm depending on the engine being well grounded through the airframe for starting so I figure I don't need more than a #8. btw, the FAA's Acceptable Methods has great detail on how to do airframe ground connections (lock washers, materials, etc) Hope some of that helps. Bill "going to run some wires" Watson RV10 40605 woxofswa wrote: > > Hi guys, > > This is my first post on this forum. I am looking forward to learning at the knees of the braintrust. > > I just finished the 'lectric bible and really enjoyed it, (that which I could understand at least). > > I am building an RV-10 and have settled for now on the one battery two alternator scheme, and am planning to run a #2 ground wire from the (rear) batt to a forest of grounds at the firewall. > > My specific question for today has to do with grounding items in the center tunnel, specifically, the fuel totalizer, fuel pump, flap actuator, flap position selector, and a flap position sensor (wouldn't it be great if those two could be combined into one geewhiz?) > > At any rate, the question that I have on grounding those items is should I: > > 1. Ground each locally? > 2. Run a separate ground for each to the front forest? > 3. Run each to a mini forest in the tunnel that has its own ground wire to either the front ground forest or back to the battery? > > Thanks in advance. > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242685#242685 > > >


    Message 18


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    Time: 01:45:04 PM PST US
    From: Bob White <bob@bob-white.com>
    Subject: Re: Soldering Micro Switches
    Hi Glenn, My suggestion would be to first get the wires attached mechanically so that you don't have to hold them. Tin the ends of the wires before wraping them around the terminal. This means, flow just a little solder on the end so the strands will stay together. You should still be able to see the individual strands through the solder (don't have a big glob on there). Second use a small diameter, 0.032 inch or so, 63/37 tin/lead solder with a rosin core. The 63/37 has a lower melting point than 60/40 and when it cools it pretty much all turns solid at once. The rosin flux usually does a good job cleaning up any oxidation that would prevent a good solder joint. Never use acid flux. Third hold the soldering iron in one hand and the solder in the other. I used to use my teeth to hold the solder but about 30 years ago or so, the safety types convinced me it wasn't a good idea. :) It helps to melt just a bit of solder onto the iron. You get better heat conduction to the joint through a small amount of liquid solder than just holding the iron against the wires. Having done that, apply the iron to one side of the joint, and solder to the other. When the solder flows, remove the solder and heat and let it solidify. Fourth practice at the bench until it's working for you. If at all possible do the actual wiring at the bench. It's much easier. Another tip: Don't solder laying on your back with the joint above your face or any other body parts. You probably wouldn't do it more than once anyway. I didn't. Bob W. On Mon, 4 May 2009 15:12:40 -0400 <longg@pjm.com> wrote: > I probably don't have the touch of some of you really experienced > soldering folks, but I'm trying to work on a technique for soldering > those itsy-bitsy connectors on the micro-switches. I either touch the > switch accidentally and melt the casing or heat up the connectors to the > point that solder melts and then I sit there watching the connector sink > or break off. > > > > Is there some best combination of heat / thin solder that works best > for the micro switches and small LED lights that I might try? > > > > I suppose if you have the luxury of throwing your airplane on the > workbench and putting the panel in a vice it may not be a problem. > Trying to do this in the field holding 3 wires up with one hand and the > soldering gun in another is a real pain. > > > > Suggestions appreciated. > > > > Thanks, > > Glenn > > -- N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com 3.8 Hours Total Time and holding Cables for your rotary installation - http://roblinstores.com/


    Message 19


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    Time: 07:31:40 PM PST US
    From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
    Subject: Re: Soldering Micro Switches
    longg@pjm.com wrote: > > I suppose if you have the luxury of throwing your airplane on the > workbench and putting the panel in a vice it may not be a problem. > Trying to do this in the field holding 3 wires up with one hand and > the soldering gun in another is a real pain. > If you are using a soldering "gun" that is part of your problem. Get a good, low wattage soldering iron. It will have a small, high-temperature tip and will make soldering of small connections much easier. Use 60/40 or 63/37 solder. This is (at least the 63/37) eutectic solder - which means that it is either liquid or solid - no mushy intermediate state. Makes getting good solder joints much easier. Also, get solder that is thin enough. Unless the joint is very large, 0.025 or 0.032 diameter is plenty. I even have some 0.015 that I use once in a while for really small joints. Also, if you are getting up there in age (as I am) get a magnifier so you can see what you are doing. You would be surprised how much it helps when you can really see the little parts up close ;-) . Dick -- Please Note: No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however, that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced. --


    Message 20


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    Time: 09:55:25 PM PST US
    From: "Ralph Finch" <rgf@dcn.davis.ca.us>
    Subject: Reducing RF noise for a Luxeon PowerPuck
    I'm making some LED navigation lights. Being part Irish and stubborn I decided to try the Luxeon PowerPuck (http://www.luxeonstar.com/powerpuck-700ma-dc-led-driver-with-leads-p-27.php ) even though I also had Robert Nuckolls' filtered Buck Puck. Sure enough the PowerPuck produces RF noise, measured by a hand-held Icom receiver. Squelch has to be turned nearly all the way up to silence the receiver. Now the PowerPuck data sheet (http://www.leddynamics.com/LuxDrive/datasheets/2008B-PowerPuck.pdf) has a specific fix for RF noise, a 220uf cap between the input leads (page 4). I got the appropriate cap from Radio Shack and simply stuck it between the input leads without shortening the cap's wires or soldering it. No difference in RF noise. At this point I can think of these options: 1. Replace the Luxeon PowerPuck with the filtered Buck Puck. 2. Replace the Luxeon PowerPuck with a resistor of appropriate wattage and resistance. 3. Do nothing, maybe the RF noise isn't that bad. 4. Or, being part Irish and stubborn, try to filter the RF noise of the Luxeon PowerPuck. I'd like to try 4. a little more. What more can I do to filter the noise. Would the caps and coils used to filter the Buck Puck work for the Luxeon? Maybe use telephone wire (unshielded twisted pair)? Thanks, Ralph Finch Davis, CA, USA RV-9A QB SA




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