Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:55 AM - Of pop rivets and locknuts . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 07:15 AM - Re: Alternator excitation - suggested wiring? (mikef)
3. 07:19 AM - Re: Contactor and Crowbar Ratings (Craig Winkelmann)
4. 07:59 AM - Re: Is a pop rivet acceptable for a ground attachment? (jayb)
5. 09:38 AM - Re: Contactor and Crowbar Ratings (Craig Winkelmann)
6. 09:56 AM - Marking Wires? (mosquito56)
7. 10:24 AM - Crowbar (woxofswa)
8. 10:34 AM - Re: Marking Wires? (jaybannist@cs.com)
9. 10:44 AM - Re: Marking Wires? (Dave Bowman)
10. 10:46 AM - Re: Marking Wires? (Bob White)
11. 11:03 AM - Re: Marking Wires? (LarryMcFarland)
12. 11:12 AM - Re: Crowbar (Carlos Trigo)
13. 11:13 AM - Re: Crowbar (Matt Prather)
14. 11:25 AM - Re: Marking Wires? (Bruce Gray)
15. 11:38 AM - Contactor and Crowbar Ratings (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 12:00 PM - MX20 Vertical stripes - update (Ralph E. Capen)
17. 12:25 PM - Re: Marking Wires? (Tom Barter)
18. 12:42 PM - Re: Crowbar (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 12:46 PM - Re: MX20 Vertical stripes - update (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
20. 02:16 PM - Re: Re: Battery Charger as Ground Power (Tony Babb)
21. 03:14 PM - Wire Sizes Help !!! Which Gauge to use ??? (JetPilot)
22. 04:49 PM - Re: Wire Sizes Help !!! Which Gauge to use ??? (Ron Quillin)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Of pop rivets and locknuts . . . |
I replaced two ground wires using pop rivets with solid driven rivets. Much
tighter connection and it makes me feel better anyway.
Given that the new joints are 'tighter' is an
obvious good thing. But be aware that a rivet
is a fastener designed for shear loads. I.e.,
the shank swells in the hole thus capturing the
two sheets radially. But the axial clamping
forces are spread over a much smaller area
than the nut, screw and washer process described
earlier. Thus we have lower retention forces
in torque. Further, aluminum rivets are softer
than steel fasteners and more likely to loosen
under temperature cycles and vibration over
time. The gas-tightness of this joint over time
is doubtful. We would never use a rivet (of
any kind) for making up a life-of-the-airplane
electrical connection to airframe in a TC aircraft.
I'll refer the readers to Section 15 of AC43-13
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Reference_Docs/FAA/AC43.13-1B_Change1.pdf
where one can become deeply immersed in the art
of attaching electrical conductors to airframes.
I hesitate to offer this reference because it
tends to take something simple and make it
complicated. But there is value in understanding
the design goals along with some processes and
materials to achieve them.
In addition to the noise reduction benefits for
the single-point ground system proposed in Z-15,
the processes by which wires get attached to
ground are already taken care of by using the
fast-on terminals. But once you venture out of
the forest-of-tabs ground block, then a rudimentary
understanding of the design goals is useful.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator excitation - suggested wiring? |
Bob,
Thanks very much for that detailed explanation. That will help me plan this weekends
activities.
Mike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244135#244135
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Contactor and Crowbar Ratings |
Thanks for the reply. When looking at the Stancor 70-903 data sheet it states
the Max Safe Operating Range is 110% of nominal rated voltage. That gives me
26.4 volts. In a 24 volt system, the bus voltage often runs near 28 volts for
the alternator to charge the battery. That is over the rating.
Additionally, in the Stancor documentation for sizing a contactor, they specifically
state a warning about using contactors rated at battery voltage when there
is charging taking place. For 12 VDC systems, they make a 15 VDC contactor
but have no such beast for a 24 vdc system.
Also, Bob, take a look at the URLs in your last post. Some malware or something
has changed the url to some odd url.
Craig
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244138#244138
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Is a pop rivet acceptable for a ground attachment? |
I didn't see anything about pop rivet grounds in AC43.13-1B-Change1 doc... See
Section 15 Grounding and Bonding. I used several plate nut grounds similar to
that shown in Tables 11-15 and 11-16 (see attached).
Regards,
Jay
rgf(at)dcn.davis.ca.us wrote:
> I am grounding a gizmotron (Dynon pitot heater controller) to a wing rib
> with a Fast-On Tab. I used a pop rivet to attach the Tab to the rib, but
> then it occurred to me this might not be acceptable. The Tab can rotate
> around the rivet, though not freely or loosely. I'm not concerned about the
> mechanical properties as much as the electrical. Maybe a tighter connection
> is required?
>
> Having been wrong about almost everything electrical in the past, I thought
> I'd post here and get a definitive answer.
>
> Ralph Finch
> Davis, CA
> RV-9A QB-SA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244147#244147
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/grounds_756.pdf
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Contactor and Crowbar Ratings |
OK, after much research, the Gigavac GX11CA it is. I spoke with one of their engineers
and it is designed for 28 VDC continuous use. In addition, it is hermetically
sealed as an added plus and it has built in spike suppression so it
needs no external diodes. There are also models that have an extra contact for
switching on an indicator light if wanted. Price is $113 each. So, more that
Stancor, less than Kilovac and much less than CH.
Thanks for all your help and direction!
Craig
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244164#244164
Message 6
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I am looking for a way to mark my wires in my Zodiac 601XL. I am just finishing
up the body and will begin engine installation soon.
Can anyone suggest a method to print on shrink sleeving if possible? I have no
idea what one would be called.
I had heard there was a way to use a laser printer to do this in some way also.
Any other ideas would be welcome.
Don
--------
Don Merritt- Laredo, Tx
Apologies if I seem antagonistic.
I believe in the freeflowing ideas and discussions between individuals for assistance
in this thing we call life.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244167#244167
Message 7
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I received my Crowbar OV-14 module along with other parts for my external power
project.
Perhaps because of the importance of the task, or maybe because of the macho name
"Crowbar" I kind of expected a big meaty device with attitude and tatoos.
Something that would belong on a De Havilland that McGyver could use to save the
world and then cook his dinner.
Needless to say I was surprised at the scrawny little twirp that looked like it
belonged in a Chinese model airplane.
(just funnin' with ya Bob).
Nevertheless, my whole life has been doing more with less, so I have 100% confidence
in this dohicky, I just have a couple of questions.
Is this thingy a one time protector? Does it give its life to an overvoltage and
you snip it off like a foreskin and replace it? Or does it reset itself and
endure forever?
What is the best way to install it? Just wire it in and tie wrap it somewhere?
Does anyone have a picture of a proper installation?
Thanks in advance.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244172#244172
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Marking Wires? |
Don,
I used a laser printer with Arial 7 point type, all caps to make labels.? I would
have 4 lines, aligned one below the other.? I cut these labels out, rolled
them around the wire, slipped clear tubing over the paper and heat shrunk it.
I labeled both ends of each wire. I labeled the first end at the first terminal
at my shop bench.? The other end would wait until I knew the wire length to
the second terminal.? That was usually in the airplane, just before I installed
the final terminal connector.? Experience tells me that adequate labeling is
an absolute necessity.
Jay Bannister
-----Original Message-----
From: mosquito56 <mosquito-56@hotmail.com>
Sent: Fri, 15 May 2009 11:54 am
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Marking Wires?
I am looking for a way to mark my wires in my Zodiac 601XL. I am just finishing
up the body and will begin engine installation soon.
Can anyone suggest a method to print on shrink sleeving if possible? I have no
idea what one would be called.
I had heard there was a way to use a laser printer to do this in some way also.
Any other ideas would be welcome.
Don
--------
Don Merritt- Laredo, Tx
Apologies if I seem antagonistic.
I believe in the freeflowing ideas and discussions between individuals for
assistance in this thing we call life.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244167#244167
________________________________________________________________________
Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Marking Wires? |
you can use a Kroy TubeMarker. It will print on shrink tubing. Look at
alliedelec.com
Dave-Westlake Village, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "mosquito56" <mosquito-56@hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 9:54 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Marking Wires?
> <mosquito-56@hotmail.com>
>
> I am looking for a way to mark my wires in my Zodiac 601XL. I am just
> finishing up the body and will begin engine installation soon.
>
> Can anyone suggest a method to print on shrink sleeving if possible? I
> have no idea what one would be called.
> I had heard there was a way to use a laser printer to do this in some way
> also.
>
> Any other ideas would be welcome.
>
> Don
>
> --------
> Don Merritt- Laredo, Tx
> Apologies if I seem antagonistic.
> I believe in the freeflowing ideas and discussions between individuals
> for assistance in this thing we call life.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244167#244167
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Marking Wires? |
Hi Don,
If you wanted a whole lot of labels with the same marking, I've used
Merithian Products Corp. http://www.merithian.com/
For small quantities, printing on white heat shrink tubing with a fine
point Sharpie a good job.
Bob W.
On Fri, 15 May 2009 09:54:07 -0700
"mosquito56" <mosquito-56@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> I am looking for a way to mark my wires in my Zodiac 601XL. I am just finishing
up the body and will begin engine installation soon.
>
> Can anyone suggest a method to print on shrink sleeving if possible? I have
no idea what one would be called.
> I had heard there was a way to use a laser printer to do this in some way also.
>
> Any other ideas would be welcome.
>
> Don
>
> --------
> Don Merritt- Laredo, Tx
> Apologies if I seem antagonistic.
> I believe in the freeflowing ideas and discussions between individuals for
assistance in this thing we call life.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244167#244167
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
3.8 Hours Total Time and holding
Cables for your rotary installation - http://roblinstores.com/
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Marking Wires? |
Hi Don,
After much frustrated wrapping and securing laser printed name tabs, I
found wrapping the wire 180-degrees with packaging tape
and placing the name tab between the extended adhesive ends, the loose
protected name tab is easier to read than one coaxial with
the wire. It's also much easier to do. Just don't go overboard on the
marking if it's obvious what the wire's for.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
mosquito56 wrote:
>
> I am looking for a way to mark my wires in my Zodiac 601XL. I am just finishing
up the body and will begin engine installation soon.
>
> Can anyone suggest a method to print on shrink sleeving if possible? I have
no idea what one would be called.
> I had heard there was a way to use a laser printer to do this in some way also.
>
> Any other ideas would be welcome.
>
> Don
>
>
>
Message 12
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Myron
Very well described, I mean the sensation you had. It was exactly the same I
had when I received that CROWBAR OV-14 little black critter.
Well, perhaps I couldn't have remembered what McGiver could do with it . :-)
Carlos
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa
> Sent: sexta-feira, 15 de Maio de 2009 18:22
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Crowbar
>
>
> I received my Crowbar OV-14 module along with other parts for my external
power
> project.
>
> Perhaps because of the importance of the task, or maybe because of the
macho
> name "Crowbar" I kind of expected a big meaty device with attitude and
tatoos.
> Something that would belong on a De Havilland that McGyver could use to
save
> the world and then cook his dinner.
>
> Needless to say I was surprised at the scrawny little twirp that looked
like it
> belonged in a Chinese model airplane.
>
> (just funnin' with ya Bob).
>
> Nevertheless, my whole life has been doing more with less, so I have 100%
> confidence in this dohicky, I just have a couple of questions.
>
> Is this thingy a one time protector? Does it give its life to an
overvoltage and you
> snip it off like a foreskin and replace it? Or does it reset itself and
endure forever?
>
> What is the best way to install it? Just wire it in and tie wrap it
somewhere?
> Does anyone have a picture of a proper installation?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Message 13
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The little pipsqueak should last a long time.. All it has to do is fault
the 5A breaker and drag the field pin down (if it has an external
regulator). I believe the SCR selected is up to repeated trips without
any trauma. If I'm reading the specs correctly, it will handle 16A
without problem (with proper cooling).
Regards,
Matt-
>
> I received my Crowbar OV-14 module along with other parts for my external
> power project.
>
> Perhaps because of the importance of the task, or maybe because of the
> macho name "Crowbar" I kind of expected a big meaty device with attitude
> and tatoos. Something that would belong on a De Havilland that McGyver
> could use to save the world and then cook his dinner.
>
> Needless to say I was surprised at the scrawny little twirp that looked
> like it belonged in a Chinese model airplane.
>
> (just funnin' with ya Bob).
>
> Nevertheless, my whole life has been doing more with less, so I have 100%
> confidence in this dohicky, I just have a couple of questions.
>
> Is this thingy a one time protector? Does it give its life to an
> overvoltage and you snip it off like a foreskin and replace it? Or does
> it reset itself and endure forever?
>
> What is the best way to install it? Just wire it in and tie wrap it
> somewhere?
> Does anyone have a picture of a proper installation?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244172#244172
>
>
Message 14
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Check Ebay for Kroy first.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Bowman
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 1:37 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Marking Wires?
<davidbowman1@verizon.net>
you can use a Kroy TubeMarker. It will print on shrink tubing. Look at
alliedelec.com
Dave-Westlake Village, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "mosquito56" <mosquito-56@hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 9:54 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Marking Wires?
> <mosquito-56@hotmail.com>
>
> I am looking for a way to mark my wires in my Zodiac 601XL. I am just
> finishing up the body and will begin engine installation soon.
>
> Can anyone suggest a method to print on shrink sleeving if possible?
I
> have no idea what one would be called.
> I had heard there was a way to use a laser printer to do this in some
way
> also.
>
> Any other ideas would be welcome.
>
> Don
>
> --------
> Don Merritt- Laredo, Tx
> Apologies if I seem antagonistic.
> I believe in the freeflowing ideas and discussions between
individuals
> for assistance in this thing we call life.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244167#244167
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Contactor and Crowbar Ratings |
Thanks for the reply. When looking at the Stancor 70-903 data
sheet it states the Max Safe Operating Range is 110% of
nominal rated voltage. That gives me 26.4 volts. In a 24 volt
system, the bus voltage often runs near 28 volts for the alternator
to charge the battery.
Actually 28.5 volts nominal . . .
That is over the rating.
Additionally, in the Stancor documentation for sizing a contactor,
they specifically state a warning about using contactors rated at
battery voltage when there is charging taking place. For 12 VDC
systems, they make a 15 VDC contactor but have no such beast for a 24
vdc system.
I've read the warning and I've observed the performance
of these contactors in service since they went into the
C-140 back in '46 or so. B&C and I have sold hundreds of
these critters for the purpose of providing battery
contactor, external power and cross-feed service for
many moons . . . and found that they continue to offer
satisfactory service in these applications. But if this
idea stresses your sensibilities too much, there ARE
several alternatives . . .
One COULD also craft a after-pull-in power reduction
module to emulate the performance of devices like
the EV200. A 555 timer and a few jelly-beans would
probably make it work.
Also, Bob, take a look at the URLs in your last post. Some malware
or something has changed the url to some odd url.
Looked over my postings as they arrived here
and didn't see anything out of the ordinary.
Which URL you saw was hosed?
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 16
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| Subject: | MX20 Vertical stripes - update |
I was finally able to replicate the problem with the primary alternator, secondary
alternator, and more importantly - running on battery power alone.
Contacted Garmin and they suggested I send the unit in - they replaced the display
head and it is on its way back to me.
Ralph
Message 17
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Don,
I ended up buying a RhinoPro 5000, which I am very happy with. It will also
print on heatshrink tubing. See link below.
http://www.ecomofficesupplies.com/ProductInfo~productid~DYM15603.html#
These folks have good service and very reasonable shipping for refill
supplies.
Just a quick plug here. Our EAA chapter, Chapter 94 in Mason City, IA, is
sponsoring an Aero Electric Seminar on June 27-28. Refer to Bob's website
for details. The hanger is a great facility located right off the taxiway
for easy flying or driving. There will be a Saturday evening cookout, should
be a great time. Hope to see some of you there.
Tom Barter
Kesley Electric, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
I am looking for a way to mark my wires in my Zodiac 601XL. I am just
finishing up the body and will begin engine installation soon.
Can anyone suggest a method to print on shrink sleeving if possible? I
have no idea what one would be called.
I had heard there was a way to use a laser printer to do this in some way
also.
Any other ideas would be welcome.
Don
--------
Don Merritt- Laredo, Tx
Apologies if I seem antagonistic.
I believe in the freeflowing ideas and discussions between individuals for
assistance in this thing we call life.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244167#244167
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
06:16:00
Message 18
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At 12:21 PM 5/15/2009, you wrote:
>
>I received my Crowbar OV-14 module along with other parts for my
>external power project.
>
>Perhaps because of the importance of the task, or maybe because of
>the macho name "Crowbar" I kind of expected a big meaty device with
>attitude and tatoos. Something that would belong on a De Havilland
>that McGyver could use to save the world and then cook his dinner.
>
>Needless to say I was surprised at the scrawny little twirp that
>looked like it belonged in a Chinese model airplane.
>
>(just funnin' with ya Bob).
>
>Nevertheless, my whole life has been doing more with less, so I have
>100% confidence in this dohicky, I just have a couple of questions.
>
>Is this thingy a one time protector? Does it give its life to an
>overvoltage and you snip it off like a foreskin and replace it? Or
>does it reset itself and endure forever?
It's job is over less than 100 milliseconds after
onset of an OV condition. It forces the 5A field
supply breaker open. It will do this many times
without breaking a sweat.
>What is the best way to install it? Just wire it in and tie wrap it
>somewhere?
>Does anyone have a picture of a proper installation?
Tie-wrap it to a wire bundle. It's okay
to let the body hang on the leads.
>Thanks in advance.
I fussed over packaging for some time. I was
looking for a process and materials that provided
adequate protection while keeping costs low.
When you have an assembled ECB this small
Emacs!
How's the best way to package it? Potting (full
encapsulation) is messy, slow and makes the thing
difficult to diagnose for field failures . . . impossible
to repair.
The double melting wall heat-shrink provides an
envelope that can be put on in seconds, offers
good shielding from contaminants. It can be
cut away for repairs, field failure diagnosis
or re-adjustment.
Our next line of products will be offered in
an enclosure like this:
Emacs!
I have hundreds of plastic boxes with pre-cut d-sub
connector holes in the top. Cost of box and lid is
under $2. While the box is glued shut, it's fast to
assemble, easy to cut off, easy to replace after
repairs are made, etc.
I really considered reviving the CbOVM-14 in
this housing but that would ADD the costs of enclosure
and connector. Not consistent with my design and
marketing goals.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 19
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| Subject: | MX20 Vertical stripes - update |
Excellent,
Sounds like it can't be an alternator noise problem then..I know whan I had painted
steel alternator brackets (which produced high resistance ground path between
the alt and the engine block) it played havoc with my GNS 430.
Finally had the "duh" moment, changed the brackets and voila no more problems.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 11:56 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: MX20 Vertical stripes - update
--> <recapen@earthlink.net>
I was finally able to replicate the problem with the primary alternator, secondary
alternator, and more importantly - running on battery power alone.
Contacted Garmin and they suggested I send the unit in - they replaced the display
head and it is on its way back to me.
Ralph
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Charger as Ground Power |
Hi Bob,
Perhaps you could help me understand what the words were that you saw in
the
advert that made you think HF item number 99857 might do the job (I
understand you'd want to test it to confirm) versus very similar words
in
the ad for HF item number 42292 that you said definitely won't do the
job.
Both say they "maintain a full charge without over charging".
Below is the description for 99857 from the HF web site
* Three-stage fully automatic charging protects and prolongs battery
life
* Auto on/off trickle charging stage keeps 12 volt batteries fully
charged without overcharging
* Equipped with overload protection, short circuit protection, and
reverse polarity protection for added safety
* Also great for maintaining batteries while in storage
* Has LED charge indicators
* Includes a bracket for permanent mounting
and here's the description for 42292 from the HF web site
* Use on 12 volt batteries while in storage or during cold weather
* Floating circuit maintains a full charge without overcharging
* Automatic safety shutoff
Is there any way the electron challenged such as myself could tell or do
we
just have to buy and test - or follow your recommendations. Am I being
naive
in believing manufacturers claims?
Thanks for this and all your other explanations.
Tony Babb
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 7:14 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Battery Charger as Ground Power
At 06:08 AM 5/12/2009, you wrote:
i have 6 or 8 of these little chargers on all my toys. i have noticed on
some some that the voltage was too low. i tried once to adjust the
voltage
but couldn't get anything to turn.i guess i will go back and try again
to
adjust the voltage on a couple that are too low. on the one that was too
high i soldered a diode in line and dropped the voltage.
bob noffs
On Mon, May 11, 2009 at 8:31 PM, David L. <skywagon@charter.net> wrote:
<skywagon@charter.net>
The little, cheap Harbor Freight "maintainers" work quite well. I have
used
several. One key point however, ...many of them come set a tad too
high in
their fixed "float" voltage, to my thinking. I have seen them as high
as
13.9 v.
The good news, is they can be adjusted to the float voltage that you
want.
The little controller box should have a back lid that is lightly glued
in
place. Carefully work a very narrow blade screw driver or other tough,
but
thin device into the glued seam and work it until the back pops off.
Inside
is a small circuit board and potentiometer. It may have a spot of RTV
on
it. Work this loose. Turning the pot CW lowers to float voltage. I
like
about 13.2 v. Others may want a slightly different setting. I usually
locate where the pot slotted screw adjust hole is located next to the
little
case and drill a 3/16 hole. That way, it can be adjusted from the
outside.
The little unit is quite stable after you get the setting where you want
it.
David
David's suggestions are worthy of consideration but
he doesn't mention specific model numbers from
H.F. I've tested several battery charger products
from H.F. and found some that were not suited to our tasks.
What we're looking for are devices that first
"top off" a battery and then "drop to maintenance".
This kind of behavior is illustrated in . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/schumacher_3.jpg
This curve is from the Schumacher 1562 series chargers available
from WalMart for about $20. There are dozens of other
products that produce similar charge/maintenance profiles.
This one . . .
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42292
. . . does not.
I found a pot inside to adjust the output voltage . . .
but only ONE pot. It's a device suitable for maintaining
an already charged battery (adjust it for 13.1 volts) but
will not charge a battery.
Based on its description and price, this device
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=99857
shows more promise. Haven't had time to go get one and
check it out but in the mean time, the Schumacher
1562 is a sure bet
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/Schumacher_Chargers/156
2.j
pg
Bob . . .
Message 21
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| Subject: | Wire Sizes Help !!! Which Gauge to use ??? |
I am wiring an airplane and need to know what gauge to use for a 10 amp circuit
running about 10 feet of wire ?
Also, what size wire should I use for the Molex Connectors I find on my Radio and
Transponder ?
Thanks,
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244218#244218
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Wire Sizes Help !!! Which Gauge to use ??? |
At 15:12 5/15/2009, you wrote:
>I am wiring an airplane and need to know what gauge to use for a 10
>amp circuit running about 10 feet of wire ?
>
>Also, what size wire should I use for the Molex Connectors I find on
>my Radio and Transponder ?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mike
AC 43.13 is your friend, specifically chapter 11. If you don't want
to purchase a copy, go here:
http://rgl.faa.gov/
click on AC in the upper right then enter 43.13 in the resulting
search window. First two hits.
Minimum wire gauge for a 10A breaker or fuse is AWG-18. Beyond that
you'll need to determine maximum acceptable voltage drop, calculate
what the voltage drop for your chosen wire gauge is and then derate
for bundle size, total capacity and altitude to ensure your chosen
size is acceptable.
At least that's what those of us in certified land need to do...
Ron Q.
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