Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:08 AM - Re: Marking Wires? (jay@horriblehyde.com)
2. 06:56 AM - alternator relay connection (Michael Hilderbrand)
3. 07:30 AM - Re: alternator relay connection (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 11:17 AM - Rotax 912ULS Voltage (Les Goldner)
5. 11:56 AM - Re: Rotax 912ULS Voltage (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 03:20 PM - Re: Rotax 912ULS Voltage (Franz Fux)
7. 03:57 PM - Alternator Failure (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 04:52 PM - Re: Alternator Failure (Franz Fux)
Message 1
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Jay's think alike- I did the same as Jay Bannister except that I used a sharpie
to write onto strips of white plastic that I had cut from a square shaped milk
container. The surface of the plastic is slightly rough so that you can easily
write on it. The advantage for me was that I didn't have to jump between
the PC and the shop. The plastic was about 0.6mm thick and I cut it into strips
about 4mm high. This also meant that it was often bigger than the wire which
allowed you (with a bit of a tug) to slide the label and clear shrink up and
down the wire to where you wanted it as the plastic slightly held the heat shrink
off the wire except at the ends.
Of course you have to be able to print neatly...
Jay Hyde
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Marking Wires?
> Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 12:46:09 -0500
>
>
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> At 12:29 PM 5/19/2009, you wrote:
> > A simple and low cost way to mark wires is to use wire number markers (1/4
> > x 1 ) lengthwise on each end of the wire and then put heat shrink over it.
> > The only down side is that you have to keep a chart showing what each wire
> > number is for.
>
> Before you spend a lot of $time$ putting numbers
> on individual wires, think through the expected return
> on investment. While the wires are waiting to be tied
> off, a masking tape flag with a sharpie notation of
> where it goes will get you done.
>
> Now, what is the likelihood that you'll benefit from
> the existence of ANY single wire marking at some
> time in the future? When you're working with 3"
> wire bundles of hundreds of wires, yeah . . . but
> the future maintenance value of individual wire marking
> is of limited value in a single engine airplane. But
> if you must . . .
>
> B&C still sells the clear heat-shrink kit I used
> to offer for marking wires like this:
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Wiring_Technique/Wire_Marking.jpg
>
> You can print columns of labels in 6pt type on
> full sheets of label material. Pull of the backing
> sheet, paste to a plastic cutting board. Use x-acto
> knife to cut out label of interest and attach to
> wire with clear shrink.
>
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------)
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | alternator relay connection |
Hi everyone, =0A=0ALooking at Z-20 for the Jab 3300 engine, I notice off th
e alternator relay the "COM" wire goes to the Starter Contactor.--On my
plane I -also have a Batt Contactor.-Is there a-reason I-cannot or
should not-connect the COM wire to-the-Batt Contactor instead?-I a
m assuming if connected to the starter contactor (like on Z-20) that the-
current would still flow-through the-Batt Contactor (for a lack of bett
er term - going "up stream") to charge the battery?- =0A-=0AThanks! =0A
Michael Hilderbrand=0ADerby, Kansas=0AHttp://www.kansasflying.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: alternator relay connection |
At 08:46 AM 5/20/2009, you wrote:
>Hi everyone,
>
>Looking at Z-20 for the Jab 3300 engine, I notice off the alternator
>relay the "COM" wire goes to the Starter Contactor. On my plane
>I also have a Batt Contactor. Is there a reason I cannot or should
>not connect the COM wire to the Batt Contactor instead? I am
>assuming if connected to the starter contactor (like on Z-20) that
>the current would still flow through the Batt Contactor (for a lack
>of better term - going "up stream") to charge the battery?
Wires are roadways for electrons. You can move
intersections between roadways such that the
electrons can still get from here to there.
If you have a battery contactor on a system
with a small alternator, you might want to
consider a low-energy contactor like the EV200
we discussed earlier this week . . . or add the
Contator Power Manager I spoke of earlier this
week.
This decision can wait however . . . get
everything working first and then think about
decorations on the cake.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 4
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| Subject: | Rotax 912ULS Voltage |
I am a sport pilot and don't fly at night, but took my Zenith 701 /Rotax
912ULS up a few evenings ago just to see how hard it would be to land in the
dark. No problem landing, but with all the extra night time stuff on
(strobes, 55watt landing light, & cabin lights) plus my normal stuff
(intercom, 2GPS's, Dynon 180, ICOM radio, transponder, and intercom) the
voltage went down to 11.9 at 3500-rpm and 12.3V at my 4900-rpm cruse. The
blinding low voltage light (from aeroelectric's Z16 diagram, which I used
for my aircraft) came on for the first time and gave me a scare.
My question; is this low voltage situation normal or do I have voltage
regulation issues?
Without the extra load during daylight flight my voltage runs about
12.9-13.0 V and my battery holds a 12.8V charge. I don't have an extra
alternator and just use the internal Rotax coils for power. One guy already
told me that what I am getting is the norm with the extra stuff on, and that
the Rotax voltage regulator heats up a lot and should not be expected to
last very long. Are these things true?
Thanks for your advice.
Les
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912ULS Voltage |
At 01:08 PM 5/20/2009, you wrote:
><lgold@quantum-associates.com>
>
>I am a sport pilot and don't fly at night, but took my Zenith 701 /Rotax
>912ULS up a few evenings ago just to see how hard it would be to land in the
>dark. No problem landing, but with all the extra night time stuff on
>(strobes, 55watt landing light, & cabin lights) plus my normal stuff
>(intercom, 2GPS's, Dynon 180, ICOM radio, transponder, and intercom) the
>voltage went down to 11.9 at 3500-rpm and 12.3V at my 4900-rpm cruse. The
>blinding low voltage light (from aeroelectric's Z16 diagram, which I used
>for my aircraft) came on for the first time and gave me a scare.
>My question; is this low voltage situation normal or do I have voltage
>regulation issues?
If the low votlage light is on (bus less than 13.0 volts)
then the alternator is not producing sufficient energy to
carry all of the ship's loads AND maintain a battery.
>Without the extra load during daylight flight my voltage runs about
>12.9-13.0 V and my battery holds a 12.8V charge.
This is TOO LOW. No load and engine running should produce
a bus voltage of 14.0 MINIMUM, 14.2 to 14.4 is better. With
a 13.0V set-point, your alternator is not replenishing the
energy used to get the engine started. It's also maintaining
your battery in a very low state of charge, probably less
than 50% of capacity.
> I don't have an extra
>alternator and just use the internal Rotax coils for power. One guy already
>told me that what I am getting is the norm with the extra stuff on, and that
>the Rotax voltage regulator heats up a lot and should not be expected to
>last very long. Are these things true?
Not quite. That voltage level is too low. You need to
add up the real current draw for all accessories that
might be on at the same time. These cannot exceed
the rating of the alternator (assuming the battery
is charged) for the operating RPM . . .
Emacs!
. . . and should not be more than 75% of that rating if
you want the alternator to replenish energy removed
before cruising flight RPMs are achieved.
The stock rectifier/regulator is marginal for the
way we use them. I wish they were a bit more robust.
It would add very little to the cost of the product.
John Deere has some single phase rectifier/regulators
rated in the 30A class. It would be interesting to
see how well these might substitute for the
stock regulator.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912ULS Voltage |
Hi Bob,
Could you please help me with a low voltage problem that I am having in my
RV7. Voltage indicators on the Dynon and engine monitor both show
fluctuations between 12.5V and 11.5V while in flight. This is something that
just started during the last few flights, I have 300h on the airplane with
this being the first problem. I have had the ND 60A internally regulated
alternator form Vans in the shop and it checked out fine, I also have put in
a new battery with no improvements. Airplane wired as per Z11 with an added
electronic ignition on the top side
Thanks for any suggestions you may have
Franz
Message 7
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| Subject: | Alternator Failure |
At 05:16 PM 5/20/2009, you wrote:
>Hi Bob,
>Could you please help me with a low voltage problem that I am having
>in my RV7. Voltage indicators on the Dynon and engine monitor both
>show fluctuations between 12.5V and 11.5V while in flight.
These are the voltages you can expect from a battery
that is NOT benefiting from support by the alternator.
> This is something that just started during the last few flights, I
> have 300h on the airplane with this being the first problem. I have
> had the ND 60A internally regulated alternator form Vans in the
> shop and it checked out fine.
If the alternator is okay, then it's deprived of
an ON/OFF command that controls it . . . or is
otherwise disconnected from the system.
With the engine not running but with battery and
alternator switches ON, you should measure some
voltage close to the battery output at all wires
attached to the alternator. If no/low voltage at
the b-lead terminal, perhaps your b-lead fuse or
current limiter is open. If no/low voltage to
the control terminal, then there is a failure in
the wiring between that terminal and the bus.
> I also have put in a new battery with no improvements. Airplane
> wired as per Z11 with an added electronic ignition on the top side
I wouldn't expect a battery to fix this. The alternator
is definitely not being allowed to do its job
for some reason.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Failure |
Thanks for your prompt reply, I will investigate further
Franz
On 20/05/09 3:55 PM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> At 05:16 PM 5/20/2009, you wrote:
>> Hi Bob,
>> Could you please help me with a low voltage problem that I am having
>> in my RV7. Voltage indicators on the Dynon and engine monitor both
>> show fluctuations between 12.5V and 11.5V while in flight.
>
> These are the voltages you can expect from a battery
> that is NOT benefiting from support by the alternator.
>
>> This is something that just started during the last few flights, I
>> have 300h on the airplane with this being the first problem. I have
>> had the ND 60A internally regulated alternator form Vans in the
>> shop and it checked out fine.
>
> If the alternator is okay, then it's deprived of
> an ON/OFF command that controls it . . . or is
> otherwise disconnected from the system.
>
> With the engine not running but with battery and
> alternator switches ON, you should measure some
> voltage close to the battery output at all wires
> attached to the alternator. If no/low voltage at
> the b-lead terminal, perhaps your b-lead fuse or
> current limiter is open. If no/low voltage to
> the control terminal, then there is a failure in
> the wiring between that terminal and the bus.
>
>
>> I also have put in a new battery with no improvements. Airplane
>> wired as per Z11 with an added electronic ignition on the top side
>
>
> I wouldn't expect a battery to fix this. The alternator
> is definitely not being allowed to do its job
> for some reason.
>
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------)
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
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