AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Fri 06/05/09


Total Messages Posted: 13



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:05 AM - Re: Kitfox IV - Jabiru 2200 - Icom IC-A210 Reciving noise (EdgePerformance)
     2. 04:45 AM - Re: Essential Incident - Almost (Long) (Ken)
     3. 06:18 AM - Re: Re: Stereo to Mono (Harley)
     4. 06:25 AM - Re: Essential Incident - Almost (Long)Essential Incident - Almost (Long) (Joe)
     5. 06:41 AM - Re: Essential Incident (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     6. 06:52 AM - Re: Essential Incident - Almost (Long)Essential Incident - Almost (Long) (Ed Anderson)
     7. 07:30 AM - E-bus design goals (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     8. 07:35 AM - Re: Fw: Jabiru 3300 starter (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
     9. 09:38 AM - Re: E-bus design goals (Ben Westfall)
    10. 09:38 AM - Re: Re: Kitfox IV - Jabiru 2200 - Icom IC-A210 Reciving n (Matt Prather)
    11. 11:08 AM - Re: E-bus design goals (Mike Fontenot)
    12. 02:19 PM - Re: Kitfox IV - Jabiru 2200 - Icom IC-A210 Reciving n (EdgePerformance)
    13. 07:47 PM - Re: Essential Incident - Almost (Long) (Lenny Iszak)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 12:05:39 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Kitfox IV - Jabiru 2200 - Icom IC-A210 Reciving
    noise
    From: "EdgePerformance" <post@edgeperformance.no>
    Hi, Will that cause receiving noise only, and only with the engine off ? ianxbrown wrote: > Are the plastic washers the type with a raised bit that goes through the > hole? They generally come with the jack connectors. Otherwise the > ground side of the plug can ground through the side of the hole. > > Ian Brown > Bromont > Quebec > > On Thu, 2009-06-04 at 12:55 -0700, EdgePerformance wrote: > > > > > > > I will give it a try tomorrow. But I cant figure what I have done wrong. Radio is connected right to the battery, all wires out of the molex connector are shielded, jacks to headsets are isolated with plastic washers through the front panel, have a grounded 50x45cm ground plate inside the body with the antenna screwed right in the center of the plate with the coaxial cable shield grounded straight to the ground plate. > > > > Heres a really simple sketch of how I have wired my antenna. > > > > -------- > > Kitfox IV w Jabiru 2200 TurboAerocarb > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 46820#246820 > > > > > > > > > > Attachments: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/antenna_ground_plate_163.jpg > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -------- Kitfox IV w\ Jabiru 2200 Turbo\Aerocarb Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246925#246925


    Message 2


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    Time: 04:45:03 AM PST US
    From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
    Subject: Re: Essential Incident - Almost (Long)
    A related discussion FWIW: I still think that the electrically dependent engine and especially with internal regulated alternators, may be better served by connecting the alternator to the battery side of a battery contactor. Even more so if you have a separate OV contactor or if you run small batteries. I've done that on both alternators of my Z-14 system. Separate guarded switches control the OV contactors. In a smoke situation I want to kill everything not required by the engine but if the smoke stops I still want the option of keeping the alternator. I don't want to risk load dumping my internally regulated alternator if I don't have to. I run very small 8AH batteries but interestingly one of them lost almost all of its capacity very quickly last winter. The second one still cranked the engine fairly well so it was not obvious. It did not seem to go open circuit as it would still supply a 5 amp load for 2 or 3 minutes. De-sulphating pulses made no improvement. My voltmeters and OV sensing are off the battery busses since they run the engine. Ken Ed Anderson wrote: > > Hi Bill, > > Perhaps a bit clear explanation of my circuit. When I move my essential bus


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:18:13 AM PST US
    From: Harley <harley@AgelessWings.com>
    Subject: Re: Stereo to Mono
    >>Sony Walkman in my RV-6A that has something on the order of 400+ songs right now with plenty of storage room to spare for more songs, videos, photos, etc.<< You mean those tapes I use in my Walkman have been replaced by something better? <VBG> Actually I am very happy with the HP pocket computer that came with my newest upgrade to Anywhere Map. It fits in my pocket when not in it's vehicle mount, it has wireless internet (I did replace the Microsoft browser with "Opera", however), MP3 player, Bluetooth, built in GPS antenna, Tom-Tom for ground navigation, and, of course, AnywhereMap. Not to mention the games that I loaded into it that I can play while waiting in the doctor's waiting rooms! <G> It does have an output socket for earphones and I have an adapter for the 1/8" socket to a 1/4" plug to just plug in to the appropriate socket in my intercom. But haven't gotten around to connecting it to my intercom yet, since I don't even have an electrical system in my plane yet! Hopefully before this year is out.... Harley ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Chris Hand wrote: > <If you don't have a MP3 player (iPod) get one. Walkman are last > decades news. If you > <don't have an iPod you can get 100's of hours of music on them with > play time of 6 hours > <per charge. They are also small and light weight.> > > > Actually, I use a Sony Walkman in my RV-6A that has something on the > order of 400+ songs right now with plenty of storage room to spare for > more songs, videos, photos, etc. Weighs a few ounces, plugs into my > intercom, didn't cost much, and works great. It's a Sony Walkman > digital media player - smaller physical size than the i-pods my kids > prefer and does all I want for the RV. Although once upon a time I > did have one of the Walkman units you are talking about, Sony has > rehashed the name with current technology.....not sure which era Don's > Walkman is from. > > Chris > > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com <mailto:gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com> > *To:* aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > <mailto:aeroelectric-list@matronics.com> ; > don@contractorsnorthwest.com <mailto:don@contractorsnorthwest.com> > *Sent:* Monday, June 01, 2009 3:00 AM > *Subject:* AeroElectric-List: Re: Stereo to Mono > > I would not use a stereo to mono jack to go FROM stereo to MONO. > It really is made > for going from mono to drive a stereo headphone, split to drive > both L & R channels. > It is not designed to combine stereo to mono. > > Whats the big deal? Shorting L & R of an amp can cause damage, > even an iPod. If the > "Walkman" has a mono switch than its OK, but iPods do not have > mono switches. > > If you don't have a MP3 player (iPod) get one. Walkman are last > decades news. If you > don't have an iPod you can get 100's of hours of music on them > with play time of 6 hours > per charge. They are also small and light weight. > > There are some threads on how to properly combine stereo and > ground issues in this > forum. Just use the search engine. The easy way is with capacitor > and resistor, which > you can wire behind the panel. You would use a stereo 1/8" phone > jack and then > go from stereo to mono with the isolation Cap and Resistor. > > Cheers George > > > >From: <bakerocb@cox.net <mailto:bakerocb@cox.net>> > >Subject: AeroElectric-List: Stereo to Mono > > > >5/30/2009 > >Hello Don, You wrote: "I want to install a plug in my panel to > plug my > >stereo Walkman into but my intercom (PM1000 II) is mono." > >Here is one way to solve that problem -- > > >http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102669 > > >This adapter will put the output of a mono jack on your panel > into both > >sides of your stereo Walkman. > > >Also take a look at some of the other adapters available. You may > want to > >put a normal airplane earphone sized jack on your instrument > panel so that > >either your Walkman (with an adapter) or an airplane earphone set > (without > >adapter) may be plugged in. > > > >=========================== > >> > >>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Stereo to Mono > >>From: "Don McIntosh" <don@contractorsnorthwest.com > <mailto:don@contractorsnorthwest.com>> > >> > >>I want to install a plug in my panel to plug my stereo Walkman > into but my > >>intercom (PM1000 II) is mono. Can I just splice the Right and > Left leads together > >>to go into the intercom? Also the intercom pins are labeled "HI" > and "LOW". > >>Is this just the pin identification numbers? > >>-------- > >>Don McIntosh > >>Kitfox Series 7 under construction > >>Jabiru 3300 > > > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > * > > * > > > *


    Message 4


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    Time: 06:25:11 AM PST US
    From: "Joe" <fran5sew@banyanol.com>
    Subject: Re: Essential Incident - Almost (Long)Essential Incident
    - Almost (Long) Ed, It is hard to improve on Bob Nuckolls wiring diagrams. His schematics have evolved and have been proven over time and have been scrutinized by many eyes. His essential bus is fed via two paths: a diode and a switch. If one path fails, there is a backup. Your intention of putting the diode back in is a good idea. The voltage drop across a diode is not a concern because the alternator is putting out more than enough voltage. If the alternator fails and you turn on the E-Bus alternate feed switch, the diode is no longer part of the circuit. So in either case, alternator working or not, the voltage drop across the diode is not a concern. Putting another switch (E-Bus alt feed) between the battery and alternator introduces another failure point. That extra switch is not needed because there is already a master switch to shut off the battery and alternator circuits. Not only does the master switch shut off non-essential electrical loads, it also shuts off the main battery contactor, another non-essential load. I assume that your E-Bus alternate feed switch is a double pole switch because it controls two things: the E-Bus and battery-to-main-bus circuit. If that switch fails, both electrical paths to the E-Bus could be lost. If you post your electrical schematic on AeroElectric, others can offer suggestions for improvement. Joe


    Message 5


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    Time: 06:41:50 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: RE: Essential Incident
    At 08:22 PM 6/4/2009, you wrote: ><eanderson@carolina.rr.com> > >Hi Bill, > >Perhaps a bit clear explanation of my circuit. When I move my essential bus >switch from ALT (alternator) to BAT1 (battery1), it removes the link between >battery and alternator. However, the master relay still closed by the >battery voltage, so this provides a path for the alternator to continue to >feed the rest of the (none essential systems - such as landing lights, >strobe light, transponder, etc). Ed, could you send me a copy of your architecture? It seems that it might benefit from a failure mode effects analysis. Bob . . . --------------------------------------- ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ---------------------------------------


    Message 6


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    Time: 06:52:57 AM PST US
    From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
    Subject: Essential Incident - Almost (Long)Essential Incident
    - Almost (Long) I have to agree, Joe. What 10 years ago seemed like a reasonable idea and design- proved 10 years later to be in need of some changes - without doubt. While this incident was undoubtedly pilot induced - it pointed out some limitations that I had not factored in. Fortunately, I get the chance to make some changes. Yes, in hindsight, I agree - the voltage drop across the diode is a minor factor in the scheme of things. However, the Alternator/ battery switch will stay in the circuit - because even diodes can fail. If the switch fails then hopefully the diode will keep the battery replenished. Should the diode fail then the switch provides a circuit for keeping battery alive. I will also revise the circuit so the Master relay is not solely dependent on battery voltage. Back 10 years ago, it seemed to me that alternator failure was the highest probability. After 10+ years of flying without either alternator or battery failure - I am content with the basic design (after aforementioned changes are made that is {:>)) Ed Ed Anderson Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered Matthews, NC eanderson@carolina.rr.com <http://www.andersonee.com> http://www.andersonee.com <http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html> http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html http://www.flyrotary.com/ <http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm> http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW http://www.rotaryaviation.com/Rotorhead%20Truth.htm <http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html> _____ From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joe Sent: Friday, June 05, 2009 9:23 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Essential Incident - Almost (Long)Essential Incident - Almost (Long) Ed, It is hard to improve on Bob Nuckolls wiring diagrams. His schematics have evolved and have been proven over time and have been scrutinized by many eyes. His essential bus is fed via two paths: a diode and a switch. If one path fails, there is a backup. Your intention of putting the diode back in is a good idea. The voltage drop across a diode is not a concern because the alternator is putting out more than enough voltage. If the alternator fails and you turn on the E-Bus alternate feed switch, the diode is no longer part of the circuit. So in either case, alternator working or not, the voltage drop across the diode is not a concern. Putting another switch (E-Bus alt feed) between the battery and alternator introduces another failure point. That extra switch is not needed because there is already a master switch to shut off the battery and alternator circuits. Not only does the master switch shut off non-essential electrical loads, it also shuts off the main battery contactor, another non-essential load. I assume that your E-Bus alternate feed switch is a double pole switch because it controls two things: the E-Bus and battery-to-main-bus circuit. If that switch fails, both electrical paths to the E-Bus could be lost. If you post your electrical schematic on AeroElectric, others can offer suggestions for improvement. Joe __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3267 (20080714) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.


    Message 7


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    Time: 07:30:32 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: E-bus design goals
    At 08:30 PM 6/4/2009, you wrote: >Hi Etienne, > >As best I can recall from over 10 years ago, I decided I did not >want the voltage drop caused by a isolation diode . . . > Yeah, that bit of physics seems to bug some folks . . . but more than necessary or useful. Keep in mind that when the worst happens (alternator quits) the battery delivers energy at 12.5 down to about 11.0 volts. All our electro-whizzies are designed to either produce useful performance over this voltage range else they are NOT suitable for installation in airplanes. When the e-bus is being powered from the main bus via the back-feed isolation diode, the main bus runs at 14.2 to 14.6 volts. A 0.7 to 0.8 volt drop in the diode depresses the e-bus to a minimum of 13.4 volts - a value that is about 1.0 volt HIGHER than delivered by a battery alone. The voltage drop may be reduced by utilization of a Schottky rectifier . . . http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schottky_diode . . . if the builder is willing to give up the cost and convenience of installation for the silicon diode bridge rectifier described in my writings: http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/s401-25.jpg Several products crafted for the OBAM aircraft market speak to a design goal for lower voltage drop . . . http://aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9001/IM9001-700A.pdf http://www.periheliondesign.com/powerschottkydiodes.htm The latter product offers the lower voltage drop characteristic of the Schottky junction diode however, the application schematic shown in the link above is not the correct implementation of the e-bus philosophy described in the 'Connection. See: http://aeroelectric.com/R12A/AppZ_12A3.pdf All this makes a mountain out of a mole hill. When used as illustrated in the Z-figures, the voltage drop offered by either silicon junction or Schottky devices has no operational significance for achieving the original design goals that gave rise to the e-bus about 15 years ago. Bob . . . --------------------------------------- ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ---------------------------------------


    Message 8


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    Time: 07:35:47 AM PST US
    From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
    Subject: Fwd: Jabiru 3300 starter
    Basically starter contactors are used in addition to the solenoid on the st arter purely to avoid having a permanently hot big fat wire from the batter y to the engine..In the extrordinarilly low risk event that the wire should break and start flailing around under the cowling the consequences are lik ely to be catastrophic..read fire or at least a boiled battery. Low likelyhood/high catastrophy events are hard to quantify in terms of how much protection to add. In the "real" airplane world they went with the ad ditional contactor..Automotive they didn't. Personally I'm comfortable either way...My current RV has a starter contact or mainly cus it was in box..:) Frank ________________________________ From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectr ic-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jaybannist@cs.com Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 4:35 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Fwd: Jabiru 3300 starter Ken, Thanks for the reply. Because I have a Corvair engine, in the past, I have not looked at posts dealing specifically with Jabiru systems. I think my confusion comes from the fact that the starter solenoid on my engine is tie d to the started and there is no starter contactor. I think from looking a t the latest Jabiru wiring diagram, one or the other is required, but not b oth. I'm just not sure what is included in the Jabiru FWF package. Thanks again - Jay -----Original Message----- From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net> hman@albedo.net>> Yes but it has been discussed before and we all hoped someone else would an swer... ;) A conventional battery contactor draws almost 1 amp and can be on continuou sly. A starter contactor is quicker acting, draws more like 4 amps, and is intermittant duty. ie it will overheat and fail if energized continuously. Your call on whether you need a starter contactor as well as a starter sole noid. Is there any chance that both are required for your warranty? I did n ot use a starter contactor on my subaru but I can kill a stuck on starter b y killing a "battery" contactor on my bird. Solenoids on starters do occasi onally but rarely stick on but the same is true for starter contactors. I j udge the risk quite low for an automotive type starter solenoid and a glanc e at the voltage after start up confirms disengagement. Ken ________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com


    Message 9


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    Time: 09:38:43 AM PST US
    From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10@sinkrate.com>
    Subject: E-bus design goals
    Is it possible to have both the E-Bus switch and the Master ON at the same time? Wouldn't this power the ebus stuff at full voltage? -Ben Westfall


    Message 10


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    Time: 09:38:43 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Kitfox IV - Jabiru 2200 - Icom IC-A210
    Reciving n
    From: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
    Hello EdgePerformance, I'm just suggesting some basic trouble shooting methods. One of those methods is to disable possible antagonists - things that might be creating noise - while still being able to operate the victim. This can help to identify which system is the source of the noise. In turn: - Disable the ignition - Disable the alternator To verify that I understand clearly, you simultaneously turned off both ignitions - causing the engine to stop running, but the prop windmilled the engine for a short time? And the noise was still present, though the frequency was winding down? I would expect that if the ignition were the source of the problem, turning the ignition off would instantly stop the generation of the noise, even as the engine continued to windmill. Assuming this suggests to me that the source of the noise is in the charging system. Can you turn off the alternator while the engine runs? Another way of attacking the problem is to identify how the noise is getting into the victim. - Running the radio from a battery can help identify if noise is getting in through power/ground - Disconnecting the antenna (from the back of the radio) can identify if the noise is coming through the VHF/RF section of the radio More questions: - Do you have a separate audio panel or intercom? Can you disable it? - Does the noise present itself while on the ground (with the engine running)? This would make the debug process easier.. - Is it possible the noise is audio in nature, only (not electrical)? Maybe a mic issue? Disconnect the mic plug from the audio system? On some Permanent Magnet alternator systems, it is recommended that a bypass capacitor be installed at the output of the regulator. A cap with a value of 10kuF with at least a 40V rating would be adequate. I apologize if it seems I'm repeating myself.. I just want to make sure my non-existent Norwegian isn't causing a communication problem. :) Regards, Matt- > <post@edgeperformance.no> > > Hi, > > i have the aerocarb so normally i use idle-cutoff but both magnetic coils > are new and they work fine. Ignition cutoff work great on both cold and hot engine no matter what throttle setting. > > What do you mean by antenna mitigate ? My English aren't that great. (Poor > Norwegian). > > I tried to turn off both ignition switches in flight and the engine didn't > get to stop completely before the transmission was over, but I could clearly hear the noise frequency becoming lower. But that could also be both alternator and ignition I believe. > > I really hope I can figure this out soon so that I can go out and fly my new build jabiru 2200 turbo kitfox IV. > > -------- > Kitfox IV w\ Jabiru 2200 Turbo\Aerocarb > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246830#246830 > >


    Message 11


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    Time: 11:08:59 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: E-bus design goals
    From: Mike Fontenot <mikef@apexconsultingservices.com>
    SW4gdGhlIFoxOSAod2hhdCBJIGRpZCkgdGhlIERpb2RlIGJldHdlZW4gdGhlIE1haW4gUG93ZXIg YnVzIGFuZCB0aGUgRUJ1cwpwcmV2ZW50cyB0aGF0LgoKT24gRnJpLCBKdW4gNSwgMjAwOSBhdCAx MDozMyBBTSwgQmVuIFdlc3RmYWxsIDxydjEwQHNpbmtyYXRlLmNvbT4gd3JvdGU6Cgo+ICBJcyBp dCBwb3NzaWJsZSB0byBoYXZlIGJvdGggdGhlIEUtQnVzIHN3aXRjaCBhbmQgdGhlIE1hc3RlciBP TiBhdCB0aGUKPiBzYW1lIHRpbWU/ICBXb3VsZG6SdCB0aGlzIHBvd2VyIHRoZSBlYnVzIHN0dWZm IGF0IGZ1bGwgdm9sdGFnZT8KPgo+Cj4KPiAtQmVuIFdlc3RmYWxsCj4KPgo+Cj4KPiBfX19fX19f X19fIEluZm9ybWF0aW9uIGZyb20gRVNFVCBOT0QzMiBBbnRpdmlydXMsIHZlcnNpb24gb2Ygdmly dXMKPiBzaWduYXR1cmUgZGF0YWJhc2UgNDEzNCAoMjAwOTA2MDUpIF9fX19fX19fX18KPgo+IFRo ZSBtZXNzYWdlIHdhcyBjaGVja2VkIGJ5IEVTRVQgTk9EMzIgQW50aXZpcnVzLgo+Cj4gKiBfLT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PSBfLT0gLSBUaGUKPiBBZXJvRWxlY3RyaWMtTGlzdCBFbWFpbCBGb3J1bSAtIF8tPSBVc2UgdGhl IE1hdHJvbmljcyBMaXN0IEZlYXR1cmVzCj4gTmF2aWdhdG9yIHRvIGJyb3dzZSBfLT0gdGhlIG1h bnkgTGlzdCB1dGlsaXRpZXMgc3VjaCBhcyBMaXN0Cj4gVW4vU3Vic2NyaXB0aW9uLCBfLT0gQXJj aGl2ZSBTZWFyY2ggJiBEb3dubG9hZCwgNy1EYXkgQnJvd3NlLCBDaGF0LCBGQVEsIF8tPQo+IFBo b3Rvc2hhcmUsIGFuZCBtdWNoIG11Y2ggbW9yZTogXy09IF8tPSAtLT4gKioKPiBodHRwOi8vd3d3 Lm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vTmF2aWdhdG9yP0Flcm9FbGVjdHJpYy1MaXN0IF8tPQo+IF8tPT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09IF8t PSAtCj4gTUFUUk9OSUNTIFdFQiBGT1JVTVMgLSBfLT0gU2FtZSBncmVhdCBjb250ZW50IGFsc28g YXZhaWxhYmxlIHZpYSB0aGUgV2ViCj4gRm9ydW1zISBfLT0gXy09IC0tPiBodHRwOi8vZm9ydW1z Lm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20gXy09Cj4gXy09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT0gXy09IC0gTGlzdAo+IENvbnRyaWJ1dGlvbiBXZWIg U2l0ZSAtIF8tPSBUaGFuayB5b3UgZm9yIHlvdXIgZ2VuZXJvdXMgc3VwcG9ydCEgXy09IC1NYXR0 Cj4gRHJhbGxlLCBMaXN0IEFkbWluLiBfLT0gLS0+IGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9j b250cmlidXRpb25fLT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PQo+ICoKPgoKCgotLSAKTWlrZQoKPT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT0KTWlrZSBGb250ZW5vdApBcGV4IENvbnN1bHRpbmcgJiBTZXJ2aWNlcyBMTEMK TGFrZXdvb2QsIENvbG9yYWRvCjMwMyAvIDczMS02NjQ1Cm1pa2VmIEFUIGFwZXhjb25zdWx0aW5n c2VydmljZXMgRE9UIGNvbQo9PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PQo


    Message 12


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    Time: 02:19:06 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Kitfox IV - Jabiru 2200 - Icom IC-A210 Reciving
    n
    From: "EdgePerformance" <post@edgeperformance.no>
    Hi Matt, Thanks alot for all suggestions. Yes I believe it may be alternator noise as the prop did windmill for a few second while I was receiving a transmission. I have fully charged my battery now, and will try to take a landing circuit with the alternator wires disconnected. I use the integrated intercom in my Icom IC-A210 transceiver witch works exceptionally great. The intercom and transmissions are crystall clear. The noise does exist on ground, but it seems to affect the radio noise even more as in flight. I will try out all suggestions tomorrow and come back with a test resault. I have also got hold on a new RA-Miller com antenna I will try as well as a completly isolated battery. Thanks again, Thomas intercom(at)spro.net wrote: > Hello EdgePerformance, > > I'm just suggesting some basic trouble shooting methods. One of those > methods is to disable possible antagonists - things that might be creating > noise - while still being able to operate the victim. This can help to > identify which system is the source of the noise. In turn: > > - Disable the ignition > - Disable the alternator > > To verify that I understand clearly, you simultaneously turned off both > ignitions - causing the engine to stop running, but the prop windmilled > the engine for a short time? And the noise was still present, though the > frequency was winding down? I would expect that if the ignition were the > source of the problem, turning the ignition off would instantly stop the > generation of the noise, even as the engine continued to windmill. > Assuming this suggests to me that the source of the noise is in the > charging system. > > Can you turn off the alternator while the engine runs? > > Another way of attacking the problem is to identify how the noise is > getting into the victim. > > - Running the radio from a battery can help identify if noise is getting > in through power/ground > - Disconnecting the antenna (from the back of the radio) can identify if > the noise is coming through the VHF/RF section of the radio > > More questions: > > - Do you have a separate audio panel or intercom? Can you disable it? > > - Does the noise present itself while on the ground (with the engine > running)? This would make the debug process easier.. > > - Is it possible the noise is audio in nature, only (not electrical)? > Maybe a mic issue? Disconnect the mic plug from the audio system? > > On some Permanent Magnet alternator systems, it is recommended that a > bypass capacitor be installed at the output of the regulator. A cap with > a value of 10kuF with at least a 40V rating would be adequate. > > I apologize if it seems I'm repeating myself.. I just want to make sure > my non-existent Norwegian isn't causing a communication problem. :) > > > Regards, > > Matt- > > > > > > > > > > Hi, > > > > i have the aerocarb so normally i use idle-cutoff but both magnetic > > coils > > > > > > are new and they work fine. Ignition cutoff work great on both cold and > > hot engine no matter what throttle setting. > > > > > > > > What do you mean by antenna mitigate ? My English aren't that great. > > (Poor > > > > > > Norwegian). > > > > I tried to turn off both ignition switches in flight and the engine > > didn't > > > > > > get to stop completely before the transmission was over, but I could > > clearly hear the noise frequency becoming lower. But that could also be > > > > both alternator and ignition I believe. > > > > > I really hope I can figure this out soon so that I can go out and fly my > > new build jabiru 2200 turbo kitfox IV. > > > > > > > > -------- > > Kitfox IV w Jabiru 2200 TurboAerocarb > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 46830#246830 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -------- Kitfox IV w\ Jabiru 2200 Turbo\Aerocarb Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247001#247001


    Message 13


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    Time: 07:47:31 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Essential Incident - Almost (Long)
    From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard@rapiddecision.com>
    Ed, Wouldn't isolating the battery from the alternator stop the alternator from generating power? Or do you have a permanent magnet alternator? Or was the alternator originally switched to the auxiliary, now non-existent battery to keep feeding your e-bus? Lenny Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247043#247043




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