AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Thu 06/11/09


Total Messages Posted: 22



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:09 AM - IFR Certification ()
     2. 07:11 AM - Re: Reverse flow in Shunt and Hall Effect (Speedy11@aol.com)
     3. 07:11 AM - Re: IFR Certification (Speedy11@aol.com)
     4. 07:12 AM - Re: Re: Canopy Switch ()
     5. 07:17 AM - Re: Burning up Vans Engine Gauges - Part Two. (user9253)
     6. 07:17 AM - Re: Measuring voltage on aircraft and engine sensors? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     7. 07:43 AM - Re: Re: IFR Certification (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
     8. 09:18 AM - Re: Re: IFR Certification ()
     9. 09:25 AM - Re: Re: Reverse flow in Shunt and Hall Effect (John Morgensen)
    10. 10:09 AM - Help with LCD Circuit Design - Altitude & Heading (mikef)
    11. 10:17 AM - Re: Re: Reverse flow in Shunt and Hall Effect (Bret Smith)
    12. 11:16 AM - Re: Help with LCD Circuit Design - Altitude & Heading (Etienne Phillips)
    13. 12:52 PM - GRETZ heated pitot tube (JOHN TIPTON)
    14. 01:41 PM - Re: GRETZ heated pitot tube (Bob Leffler)
    15. 02:18 PM - Re: Help with LCD Circuit Design - Altitude & Heading (mikef)
    16. 02:34 PM - Re: Help with LCD Circuit Design - Altitude & Heading (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    17. 02:53 PM - Re: GRETZ heated pitot tube (JOHN TIPTON)
    18. 03:56 PM - Re: GRETZ heated pitot tube (Jim Berry)
    19. 05:48 PM - Re: IFR Certification (Craig Winkelmann)
    20. 07:41 PM - Re: Help with LCD Circuit Design - Altitude & 	Heading (Mike Fontenot)
    21. 08:29 PM - Re: Burning up Vans Engine Gauges - Part Two. (JakeTheBosun)
    22. 08:49 PM - Re: Burning up Vans Engine Gauges - Part Two. (JakeTheBosun)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:09:07 AM PST US
    From: <bakerocb@cox.net>
    Subject: IFR Certification
    6/11/2009 Hello Stan, You wrote: "This may not be the ideal forum for asking this question, but I'll try it anyway." Actually, this is the ideal forum for asking this question. This topic has been hashed out extensively on the aeroelectric list. If you are interested in better understanding the situation go to the aeroelectric archives and search for "encoder approval". You will find many entries under this search phrase and there are other search phrases that will also generate past postings on this subject. To save you some time searching take a look at some of the postings in August , 2006 with the subject "encoder approval". You received some good advice in response to your posting copied below -- just go to another agency capable of performing the required 14 CFR 91.411 "IFR certification" tests and have them perform the tests and provide the paper work. You'll be joining hundreds of other amateur builders happily flying IFR with non TSO'd altitude encoders that have passed the required tests of 14 CFR 91.411. 'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and understand knowledge." PS: Stein Bruch wrote: " Basically the information provided to you is completely false and not correct." That is not entirely true. In defense of your local avionics guy he is taking the same position that FAA headquarters took on the altitude encoder -- that is, the altitude encoder must either be TSO'd or be tested in accordance with 14 CFR paragraph 91.217 (b). The tests that FAA headquarters described for compliance with 91.217 (b) are very elaborate and extensive. ================================================ Time: 10:23:41 AM PST US From: Speedy11@aol.com Subject: AeroElectric-List: IFR Certification This may not be the ideal forum for asking this question, but I'll try it anyway. I want to certify my RV-8 for IFR flight. I know the FARs - I've looked at them. I have the Blue Mountain EFIS One as primary instrumentation. I have the Blue Mountain EFIS Lite as a backup. Both EFISs are on different electrical busses - the main and the standby. - which can be tied together, if needed. I asked a local avionics guy about doing a pitot-static and transponder check for IFR. He said I would have to install a separate altimeter and encoder in order to get IFR certification. The EFIS has a built-in encod er. Has anyone else encountered this obstacle? Stan Sutterfield


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:11:12 AM PST US
    From: Speedy11@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Reverse flow in Shunt and Hall Effect
    Matt and Bob, Thanks for your responses. You've confirmed my understanding of shunt an d HE functions. I'm using an Advanced Flt Systems AF-3400 and it reads both devices. I'v e had external power (regulated power supply) connected to one battery and I was getting negative amp indications. So, with the power supply connecte d to the battery and electrical consumers turned on, the shunt/HE will show a negative amperage. I'll be running the engine again in a few days and I'll check to make sur e amps are positive with normal alternator operation. Stan Yes.. Current going the opposite direction through the shunt will generate a negative voltage. The sensor connected to the shunt should interpret/display that as a negative current. **************Dell Deals: Don=99t miss huge summer savings on popula r laptops starting at $449. =http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215566131%3B37864407%3B i)


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:11:26 AM PST US
    From: Speedy11@aol.com
    Subject: Re: IFR Certification
    Thanks for all the responses. I will use this guy to do the initial VFR certification because he will come to me rather than me having to take the airplane to him. Then maybe I'll just fly it to Stein's place and get him to do the IFR cert for me. : ) Stan Sutterfield This is a rather common occurance by shops that are either uneducated or inexperienced with experimental aircraft. Sometimes it's also as a resul t of naiive FSDO people as well. Basically the information provided to you is completely false and not correct. The EFIS with it's encoder is just fine....so is it's altimeter - assuming both will pass an IFR check. We have our FAA Repair Station Certification and do a lot of said pitot stat ic and/or transponder checks on both certified and experimentals. Should be no problem if you find the right people or right shop. **************Dell Deals: Don=99t miss huge summer savings on popula r laptops starting at $449. =http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215566131%3B37864407%3B i)


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:12:09 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Canopy Switch
    From: <longg@pjm.com>
    Thanks to all for the suggestions. It sounds like the best solution is to find a switch that fits the geometry of my latch and work it from there (more fun there). I'm also checking on a pitot pressure switch or throttle up switch as a backup. Glenn -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bcondrey Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2009 10:53 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Canopy Switch <bob.condrey@baesystems.com> The mechanism referred to in RV-10s is a simple magnetic reed switch arrangement. There is a magnet in each door pin and the reed switches mounted in the door frames. Bob RV-10 N442PM Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247644#247644


    Message 5


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    Time: 07:17:00 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Burning up Vans Engine Gauges - Part Two.
    From: "user9253" <fran5sew@banyanol.com>
    Jake, What is the ambient temperature around your gauges? That could be a factor. The most likely cause of failure to a voltmeter is excessively high voltage. AC voltage applied to some instruments designed for DC could also cause damage. But you had the diodes checked out. And an AC component would be noticed in your headset. Since you are not having problems with other electrical devices on your airplane, it is unlikely that the aircraft electrical system is causing failure of your instruments unless there is something unique about the power being applied to the instruments. I suggest that you replace the analog voltmeter with a digital one. A high quality digital voltmeter should be immune to whatever your electrical system throws at it. If after flying with the new digital meter and observing the voltage, the other instruments can be replaced. Joe -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247674#247674


    Message 6


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    Time: 07:17:36 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Measuring voltage on aircraft and engine sensors?
    At 02:11 PM 6/10/2009, you wrote: ><mosquito-56@hotmail.com> > >I am trying to connect my aircraft to a microcontroller and some adc's. > >Will a hall effect rpm sensor work on 5vdc? Get the data sheet for the sensor you plan to use. The HE devices I've used in the past to look at shaft rpms were quite happy with 5v supply. I suspect most are but the manufacturer's data sheet is the last word. >Are the oil temp and oil pressure sensors just pots? I presume you're building from scratch. Temperature and pressure sensors come in lots of flavors. I personally favor the use of thermocouples for all temperature measurements. These are most easily adapted to the 5v microprocessor world with thermocouple conditioning chips like the AD594 series. http://www.mne.psu.edu/sommer/me445/AD594_5_c.pdf But there are numerous other products using thermo-resistive sensors to choose from. The nice thing about thermocouples is that they're calibrated right off the roll of wire. Pressure transducers these days are usually amplified piezo-resistive device like . . . Emacs! These can be pretty pricey compared to the automotive devices that behave pretty much like a rheostat. Emacs! You can adapt about anything to your task when starting from a clean piece of paper. Bob . . . --------------------------------------- ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ---------------------------------------


    Message 7


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    Time: 07:43:07 AM PST US
    From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
    Subject: Re: IFR Certification
    Don't if it was legal but I didn't do a VFR cert..I just labeled the Transp onder "Inooperative" and flew it to get the IFR cert done...Why pay twice i f you don't have to? Frank ________________________________ From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectr ic-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Speedy11@aol.com Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2009 7:11 AM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: IFR Certification Thanks for all the responses. I will use this guy to do the initial VFR certification because he will com e to me rather than me having to take the airplane to him. Then maybe I'll just fly it to Stein's place and get him to do the IFR cert for me. : ) Stan Sutterfield This is a rather common occurance by shops that are either uneducated or inexperienced with experimental aircraft. Sometimes it's also as a result of naiive FSDO people as well. Basically the information provided to you i s completely false and not correct. The EFIS with it's encoder is just fine....so is it's altimeter - assuming both will pass an IFR check. We have our FAA Repair Station Certification and do a lot of said pitot static and/or transponder checks on both certified and experimentals. Should be n o problem if you find the right people or right shop. ________________________________ Dell Deals: Don't miss huge summer savings on popular laptops starting at $ r=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215566131%3B37864407%3Bi>


    Message 8


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    Time: 09:18:14 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: IFR Certification
    From: <longg@pjm.com>
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    Message 9


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    Time: 09:25:27 AM PST US
    From: John Morgensen <john@morgensen.com>
    Subject: Re: Reverse flow in Shunt and Hall Effect
    Speedy11@aol.com wrote: > I'm using an Advanced Flt Systems AF-3400 and it reads both devices. > I've had external power (regulated power supply) connected to one > battery and I was getting negative amp indications. So, with the > power supply connected to the battery and electrical consumers turned > on, the shunt/HE will show a negative amperage. I am just starting the wiring on my AFS 3500 so I am probably confused, but I thought the shunt and Hall Effect were mutually exclusive. I plan to run both alternators (Z13/8) through the HE as shown on page 42 of the AF3500 System Manual V5.3. Am I missing something? John Morgensen RV9A - wiring


    Message 10


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    Time: 10:09:06 AM PST US
    Subject: Help with LCD Circuit Design - Altitude & Heading
    From: "mikef" <mikefapex@gmail.com>
    Hi, I am interested in building a simple, small, bright LCD display that can increment numbers with the twist of a knob. I would like to build a 4 digit and 3 digit versions, to represent pattern altitude and heading, respectively. Put it in a small enclosure and mount on my dash. Pattern altitude - knob changes in 100' increments Heading - knob changes in 10 degree increments. Would be nice to go from 0 to 360, then roll back over to zero (0). I know you knowledgeable electronics guys are thinking this is stone simple, but.... I'm a noob. I don't know which parts to mix and match to make this happen. And while having googled lots of stuff, I am still unsure how to pick the right parts to make this work. So if someone in the know could suggest the right combination of parts it would be most appreciated. Here is a commercial version that inspired my request here. But sweet jeeezus, at $400 that is just plain outrageous for what I bet cost maybe $50. http://www.p2inc.com/skybuddy.asp Thanks in advance! Mike Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247702#247702


    Message 11


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    Time: 10:17:06 AM PST US
    From: "Bret Smith" <smithhb@tds.net>
    Subject: Re: Reverse flow in Shunt and Hall Effect
    I'm wired for 13/8 and use the AFS3500's. I went with two shunts; one FWF for the main alt and another cabin-side for the SD-8. I had the main alt shunt reading negatively at first and only had to reverse the wires to the AFS unit. HTH Bret Smith RV-9A N16BL Blue Ridge, GA www.FlightInnovations.com ----- Original Message ----- From: John Morgensen To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com ; Speedy11@aol.com Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2009 12:23 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Reverse flow in Shunt and Hall Effect Speedy11@aol.com wrote: I'm using an Advanced Flt Systems AF-3400 and it reads both devices. I've had external power (regulated power supply) connected to one battery and I was getting negative amp indications. So, with the power supply connected to the battery and electrical consumers turned on, the shunt/HE will show a negative amperage. I am just starting the wiring on my AFS 3500 so I am probably confused, but I thought the shunt and Hall Effect were mutually exclusive. I plan to run both alternators (Z13/8) through the HE as shown on page 42 of the AF3500 System Manual V5.3. Am I missing something? John Morgensen RV9A - wiring


    Message 12


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    Time: 11:16:41 AM PST US
    From: Etienne Phillips <etienne.phillips@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Help with LCD Circuit Design - Altitude & Heading
    If I were looking at a similar project, I would consider using a microprocessor, 7-segment LED displays (or a backlit LCD for good sunlight readability), and two quadrature jogdials. It's not a simple solution though, and I'd be hesitant to encourage you to attempt this solution as a novice due to the combined software and hardware nature of the microprocessor... Total electronics cost (assuming you have all the required tools and a programmer) in the order of $15, then you'll need an enclosure of some sort. Maybe another $15-$20. Certainly do-able for waaaaay less than $400. Hope this inspires some other answers, hopefully with a simpler solution that would make a good project for a beginner :-) Etienne Very simple from a hardware perspective, and the code for the microprocessor is not too hard. However, I'm not a noob (BSc in Electrical Engineering ;-) ), and I have all the required tools on hand! On 11 Jun 2009, at 7:06 PM, mikef wrote: > > Hi, > > I am interested in building a simple, small, bright LCD display > that can increment numbers with the twist of a knob. I would like > to build a 4 digit and 3 digit versions, to represent pattern > altitude and heading, respectively. Put it in a small enclosure and > mount on my dash. > > Pattern altitude - knob changes in 100' increments > Heading - knob changes in 10 degree increments. Would be nice to go > from 0 to 360, then roll back over to zero (0). > > I know you knowledgeable electronics guys are thinking this is > stone simple, but.... I'm a noob. I don't know which parts to mix > and match to make this happen. And while having googled lots of > stuff, I am still unsure how to pick the right parts to make this > work. So if someone in the know could suggest the right combination > of parts it would be most appreciated. > > Here is a commercial version that inspired my request here. But > sweet jeeezus, at $400 that is just plain outrageous for what I bet > cost maybe $50. > > http://www.p2inc.com/skybuddy.asp > > Thanks in advance! > > Mike > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247702#247702 > >


    Message 13


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    Time: 12:52:54 PM PST US
    From: "JOHN TIPTON" <jmtipton@btopenworld.com>
    Subject: GRETZ heated pitot tube
    Hi Guys Has anyone cut off the LEDs from the control unit (of the Gretz heated pitot tube product) and mounted it remotely, and then mounted the LEDs on their own wires to the panel - if so: how did you get on, any problems ??? Regards John (England - RV9a wings)


    Message 14


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    Time: 01:41:48 PM PST US
    From: "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com>
    Subject: GRETZ heated pitot tube
    I'm confused on what you are attempting to accomplish. The LEDs aren't on the control unit, they are on a separate circuit board. This allows them to be remotely mounted. I would leave them on the board to add more strength to the mounting point for the LEDS. There is nothing magical about that circuit other than a resistor and LED. You should be able to reverse engineer the traces by looking at the board. Or you could just give Andrew at Angus Aviation a call. Just remember that he's fourteen hours ahead of us. From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JOHN TIPTON Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2009 3:51 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: GRETZ heated pitot tube Hi Guys Has anyone cut off the LEDs from the control unit (of the Gretz heated pitot tube product) and mounted it remotely, and then mounted the LEDs on their own wires to the panel - if so: how did you get on, any problems ??? Regards John (England - RV9a wings)


    Message 15


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    Time: 02:18:45 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Help with LCD Circuit Design - Altitude & Heading
    From: "mikef" <mikefapex@gmail.com>
    Etienne, Thanks for your note. It is educational. I'll keep the info in mind. Mike Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247727#247727


    Message 16


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    Time: 02:34:47 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Help with LCD Circuit Design - Altitude & Heading
    At 12:06 PM 6/11/2009, you wrote: > >Hi, > >I am interested in building a simple, small, bright LCD display that >can increment numbers with the twist of a knob. I would like to >build a 4 digit and 3 digit versions, to represent pattern altitude >and heading, respectively. Put it in a small enclosure and mount on my dash. > >Pattern altitude - knob changes in 100' increments >Heading - knob changes in 10 degree increments. Would be nice to go >from 0 to 360, then roll back over to zero (0). > >I know you knowledgeable electronics guys are thinking this is stone >simple, but.... I'm a noob. I don't know which parts to mix and >match to make this happen. And while having googled lots of stuff, I >am still unsure how to pick the right parts to make this work. So if >someone in the know could suggest the right combination of parts it >would be most appreciated. > >Here is a commercial version that inspired my request here. But >sweet jeeezus, at $400 that is just plain outrageous for what I bet >cost maybe $50. If all you're wanting is a reminder why go electronic. Pure mechanical works too. See: http://tinyurl.com/mpjq8u In years past I've seen installations of thumbwheel switches mounted to allow dialing in a number to be prompted. No electronics required. What you're wanting to do would take quite a bit of time . . . that $400 price for a low volume product was probably not all that outrageous. Bob . . . --------------------------------------- ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ---------------------------------------


    Message 17


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    Time: 02:53:22 PM PST US
    From: "JOHN TIPTON" <jmtipton@btopenworld.com>
    Subject: Re: GRETZ heated pitot tube
    Yes: I meant the separate circuit board: it does seem to be a lot of weight (relatively) to hang on the three LEDs John ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Leffler To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2009 9:45 PM Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: GRETZ heated pitot tube I'm confused on what you are attempting to accomplish. The LEDs aren't on the control unit, they are on a separate circuit board. This allows them to be remotely mounted. I would leave them on the board to add more strength to the mounting point for the LEDS. There is nothing magical about that circuit other than a resistor and LED. You should be able to reverse engineer the traces by looking at the board. Or you could just give Andrew at Angus Aviation a call. Just remember that he's fourteen hours ahead of us. From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JOHN TIPTON Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2009 3:51 PM To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com Subject: AeroElectric-List: GRETZ heated pitot tube Hi Guys Has anyone cut off the LEDs from the control unit (of the Gretz heated pitot tube product) and mounted it remotely, and then mounted the LEDs on their own wires to the panel - if so: how did you get on, any problems ??? Regards John (England - RV9a wings) http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-Listhttp://forums.matroni cs.comhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution


    Message 18


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    Time: 03:56:10 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: GRETZ heated pitot tube
    From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry@qwest.net>
    John, I eliminated the Gretz LED's and mounting board altogether. Replaced them with 3 new LED's epoxied from the back of my panel, and wired without the mounting board. Works fine. Jim Berry RV10 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247739#247739


    Message 19


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    Time: 05:48:19 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: IFR Certification
    From: "Craig Winkelmann" <capav8r@gmail.com>
    Recently had my Blue Mountain Sport (new install) calibrated and certified. Not an issue. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247760#247760


    Message 20


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    Time: 07:41:05 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Help with LCD Circuit Design - Altitude & Heading
    From: Mike Fontenot <mikef@apexconsultingservices.com>
    Bob, That is a good idea. Thanks! Mike On Thu, Jun 11, 2009 at 3:32 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote: > At 12:06 PM 6/11/2009, you wrote: > > > Hi, > > I am interested in building a simple, small, bright LCD display that can > increment numbers with the twist of a knob. I would like to build a 4 digit > and 3 digit versions, to represent pattern altitude and heading, > respectively. Put it in a small enclosure and mount on my dash. > > Pattern altitude - knob changes in 100' increments > Heading - knob changes in 10 degree increments. Would be nice to go from 0 > to 360, then roll back over to zero (0). > > I know you knowledgeable electronics guys are thinking this is stone > simple, but.... I'm a noob. I don't know which parts to mix and match to > make this happen. And while having googled lots of stuff, I am still unsure > how to pick the right parts to make this work. So if someone in the know > could suggest the right combination of parts it would be most appreciated. > > Here is a commercial version that inspired my request here. But sweet > jeeezus, at $400 that is just plain outrageous for what I bet cost maybe > $50. > > > If all you're wanting is a reminder why go > electronic. Pure mechanical works too. See: > > * http://tinyurl.com/mpjq8u* > > In years past I've seen installations of thumbwheel > switches mounted to allow dialing in a number to > be prompted. No electronics required. > > What you're wanting to do would take quite a bit > of time . . . that $400 price for a low > volume product was probably not all that > outrageous. > > > Bob . . . > > --------------------------------------- > ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) > ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) > ( appearance of being right . . . ) > ( ) > ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) > --------------------------------------- > > > * > > * > > -- Mike =============================== Mike Fontenot Apex Consulting & Services LLC Lakewood, Colorado 303 / 731-6645 mikef AT apexconsultingservices DOT com ===============================


    Message 21


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    Time: 08:29:37 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Burning up Vans Engine Gauges - Part Two.
    From: "JakeTheBosun" <george@yukonflying.com>
    mprather(at)spro.net wrote: > Interesting.. > > Can you see what in the instrument is fried? Is it a component connected > to the V+ or from the signal/sensor (or something else)? > > The resistor on +ve Voltage into instrument burned > > I assume the 14.2V value is measured on the instrument supply (V+) > terminal. Can you compare this with the voltage at the bus. > > Yes, was same. > > Can you measure the voltage drop between the instrument (display) ground > and the engine ground (with the engine running)? I understand that all of > the connections appear solid. > > I will do this. I think it was same. > > Have you done any recent maintenance or mods? > > No > > Thanks for taking time to answer.. > > Regards, > > Matt- > > > > > > > > > > Well I'm stumped....my simple RV8, basic analog instruments only, Nipon > > Denso 40 amp Alternator, Oddeysey battery, worked well for 200 hours. > > > > Saturday Volt Meter burned (resistor on circuit board overheated and > > melted case), then Oil Temperature gauge did same thing, now today while > > testing Manifold Pressure full of smoke. > > > > I have; > > -checked - no loose wires found ground or power. > > -Good Battery-engine-ground (heavy cable, short runs, tight connections.) > > -Good bus connections (one central ground bus located at firewall) > > -14.2 Volts on meter at gauges while running, but instruments overheat. > > -12+ volts on meter when engine stopped, instruments seem not to overheat. > > -Removed alternator and took to shop for evaluation....tested on stand and > > found good output and diodes. > > > > > > Anybody got a next step? Nice weather........need to fly > > George > > > > -------- > > Jake > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 47617#247617 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -------- Jake Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247770#247770


    Message 22


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    Time: 08:49:42 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Burning up Vans Engine Gauges - Part Two.
    From: "JakeTheBosun" <george@yukonflying.com>
    Just an update ...thanks to those who answered; I have performed no modifications except annual inspection and wash. The instruments burn up the resistor on the +ve supply into the circuit board inside instruments. The 14.2 V is at instrument. Fooling around measuring power to ground at many places seems very consistent. The ambient temperature is not too high (especially compared to you guys in Southern US). On osciloscope today, we found .004 V AC in the alternator current. This seems pretty low to me? Nothing else currently having problems. Today we also removed the battery -ve cable cleaned it and put it to engine where we connected the cable to the firewall ground post. All cables are # 2 and about 18" long. I did notice the negative post on the battery moves just ever so slightly as I tightened the post back on, not very much just enough to notice. I also see the alternator is spinning at top of the rated RPM, but easily within the 10% the alternator shop taked of. Thanks again you guys. -------- Jake Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247771#247771




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