AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Sun 07/05/09


Total Messages Posted: 5



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 11:22 AM - Electrical Problem (Joseph Czachorowski)
     2. 02:13 PM - Re: Electrical Problem (Dennis & Anne Glaeser)
     3. 05:14 PM - Electrical stuff for sale. (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
     4. 05:29 PM - Re: Re: self weighing our planes (David M.)
     5. 06:48 PM - Re: Electrical Problem (Ralph Finch)
 
 
 


Message 1


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 11:22:43 AM PST US
    From: "Joseph Czachorowski" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
    Subject: Electrical Problem
    Guys, I have a 2007 C-182T Skylane. After about 240 hours on the bird I got an electrical problem. The Skylane has a G1000 in it. After starting the plane and sitting on the ground at idle (approx 1000 RPM) the "M BAT" starts to show a discharge after awhile (approx -1.5 amps). The volts are good at 28 volts (the plane has a 24 volt bat). I can turn the ALT off and the M BAT shows a bigger discharge (as it should). As soon as I put the ALT back on line, the M BAT shows a positive charge followed by a discharge to -1.5 amps. Volts are a steady 28 with the ALT on. I don't think it's a ALT problem. I changed the Gill bat hoping it was a battery problem. Nope. Same problem exists with the new bat installed. I'm thinking the next thing to check would be the shunts (there are 2...one for the STBY BAT and one for the M BAT). Anyone have any other ideas? Joe


    Message 2


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 02:13:27 PM PST US
    From: "Dennis & Anne Glaeser" <glaesers@wideopenwest.com>
    Subject: Re: Electrical Problem
    Joe, I instruct in C172s with G1000s and that happens on a regular basis. I don't think it's really a problem, it basically means the battery is fully charged and at low RPMs it's actually supplying a few electrons more than the alternator. As long as it goes away as soon as the RPMs come up, I don't consider it an issue. Hopefully Bob will confirm. Dennis Glaeser


    Message 3


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 05:14:56 PM PST US
    From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
    Subject: Electrical stuff for sale.
    I still have a few things leftover from the completion of my RV-6A project. All electrical parts are new in the package (if they came in a package). See below and contact me off list if there is anything you need: Dean Psiropoulos N197DM Tarpon Sprgs, FL 1) Rocky Mountain Instrument - Micro Encoder (Unassembled Kit), fits std 3 1/8 inch instrument hole, displays airspeed, altitude, VSI, OAT, Altitude alerting, misc warnings. Half the price of new at $450.00 2) Wingtip/Windscreen antenna kit - originally sold through Van's $10.00 3) Control Cables, Black Knob Friction Lock (for throttle control) $30 each a) ACS Products, A800BL0445-V, 44.5 inches long (RV-6 with carburetor) b) ACS Products, A800BL0505-V, 50.5 inches long (RV, FWD facing sump) 4) Control Cables, Black Knob with bare wire ends (used for carb/cabin heat control) $15.00 each a) ACS Products, A740BL0720, 6 feet long (Black Knob no button) b) ACS Products, A740BL0720, 6 feet long (Black Knob no button) 5) Cable Safe, bulkhead penetration/mount for control cable, (for 1/4 in OD cable). Fits control cables in (4) above $5.00 6) Gooseneck Chart Light with separate Dimmer control (B&C GCL) $50.00 7) Ray Allen Rocker Switch (4 wire, for electric trim servo control)$15.00 8) Ray Allen LED bar graph indicator (shows trim servo position). $60.00 9) Lighted Rocker Switch, Amber lens Carling Brand SPST, 1 piece (.55 x 1.125 hole) $2.50 10) Lighted Rocker Switch, red LED, SPST, 1 piece (.512 x .752 hole) $2.50 11) 2 Large Terminal blocks, (10 connections), #8 screws, $5.00 each 12) 1 Large Terminal block, (16 connections), #8 screws, $5.00 13) Flexible fuel line, std 3/8 inch with firesleeve, 15 inches long (Van's part VA-129) $30.00 (never installed) 14) Wood prop install kit for 0-360 engine: a) Aluminum machined spacer, 2 1/4 inch, $200.00 b) Aluminum crush plate and AN steel bolts $140.00 15) Wood prop for 0-360, 70x82, Ed Sterba, mfg 2006, 6 hours TT $450.00 16) Van's fiberglass spinner, fits 70x82 Sterba wood prop, painted metallic silver $100.00


    Message 4


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 05:29:09 PM PST US
    From: "David M." <ainut@hiwaay.net>
    Subject: Re: RE: self weighing our planes
    No problem. I understood and thanks for the info. And thanks everyone for the help! This is great stuff. David BobsV35B@aol.com wrote: > Good Evening David, > > Sorry if you got the impression that I was suggesting using my > procedure as a means of checking the weight of your aircraft prior to > a takeoff! > > My comment was in response to a note which said that the Airbus > supplied a weight figure following takeoff. The submitter seemed to > wonder how that could be done, I was just mentioning one way such a > determination could be made. > > As to what to do if I found find nine degrees wasn't going to get me > airborne, that really depends on how much runway is left and how bad > the crash will be if I abort. > > Fortunately for me, I was flying a four engine airplane and our > performance numbers were based on having three running and the most > critical engine failed at the most inopportune time. That meant that > if all four were still running, we had some wiggle room if the > aircraft was over the weight shown on the weight manifest. > > It was my experience with some very poor data being provided on > charter trips that got me to develop my little checking procedure and, > as I could verify sloppy work by those who provided the data, I could > take steps to get the quality of the data improved. > > I do not recommend ever operating intentionally at any loading not > approved for the airplane, but there are simple methods that we can > use to help keep everyone honest and on their toes. > > Happy Skies, > > Old Bob > > <<<snip>>>


    Message 5


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 06:48:02 PM PST US
    From: "Ralph Finch" <rgf@dcn.davis.ca.us>
    Subject: Electrical Problem
    Also, I find the Gill batteries-at least their non-flooded batteries-really inferior to Concord and probably other brands. I gave up on Gills, the Concord battery I use is working well past the life of a Gill. Ralph Davis, CA From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Czachorowski Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 11:16 AM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Electrical Problem Guys, I have a 2007 C-182T Skylane. After about 240 hours on the bird I got an electrical problem. The Skylane has a G1000 in it. After starting the plane and sitting on the ground at idle (approx 1000 RPM) the "M BAT" starts to show a discharge after awhile (approx -1.5 amps). The volts are good at 28 volts (the plane has a 24 volt bat). I can turn the ALT off and the M BAT shows a bigger discharge (as it should). As soon as I put the ALT back on line, the M BAT shows a positive charge followed by a discharge to -1.5 amps. Volts are a steady 28 with the ALT on. I don't think it's a ALT problem. I changed the Gill bat hoping it was a battery problem. Nope. Same problem exists with the new bat installed. I'm thinking the next thing to check would be the shunts (there are 2...one for the STBY BAT and one for the M BAT). Anyone have any other ideas? Joe




    Other Matronics Email List Services

  • Post A New Message
  •   aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
  • UN/SUBSCRIBE
  •   http://www.matronics.com/subscription
  • List FAQ
  •   http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm
  • Web Forum Interface To Lists
  •   http://forums.matronics.com
  • Matronics List Wiki
  •   http://wiki.matronics.com
  • 7-Day List Browse
  •   http://www.matronics.com/browse/aeroelectric-list
  • Browse AeroElectric-List Digests
  •   http://www.matronics.com/digest/aeroelectric-list
  • Browse Other Lists
  •   http://www.matronics.com/browse
  • Live Online Chat!
  •   http://www.matronics.com/chat
  • Archive Downloading
  •   http://www.matronics.com/archives
  • Photo Share
  •   http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
  • Other Email Lists
  •   http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
  • Contributions
  •   http://www.matronics.com/contribution

    These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.

    -- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --