Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:44 AM - Connection of the starter relay (STARTER SOLENOID 22735) ()
2. 03:44 AM - Re: Icom A-210 intercom (Question) (gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com)
3. 04:52 AM - Re: Re: Icom A-210 intercom (Question) (Kevin Boddicker)
4. 05:13 AM - Re: Re: Icom A-210 intercom (Question) (Sam Hoskins)
5. 07:28 AM - Re: Connection of the starter relay (STARTER SOLENOID 22735) (nuckollsr)
6. 07:53 AM - Re: Connection of the starter relay (STARTER SOLENOID 22735) (Rodney Dunham)
7. 08:40 AM - Re: Re: Icom A-210 intercom (Question) (Kevin Boddicker)
8. 09:16 AM - Re: Spike catcher diode (Wade Roe)
9. 09:55 AM - Re: Spike catcher diode (Bob White)
10. 09:56 AM - Re: Spike catcher diode (Bob Leffler)
11. 10:58 AM - Re: Spike catcher diode (Wade Roe)
12. 06:41 PM - Inspection camera (Ron Quillin)
13. 06:43 PM - Inspection camera (Ron Quillin)
14. 08:03 PM - Re: Inspection camera ()
15. 11:22 PM - First come/first serve (luigit@freemail.it)
Message 1
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Subject: | Connection of the starter relay (STARTER SOLENOID 22735) |
Hello Bob Nuckolls.
I have been having a starter problems on my Rotax 912 lately. The starter
is the original Rotax starter. The starter has always needed more than
normal power to start the aircraft. I have been connecting a booster
battery every time I start the engine cold.
The Regulator/Rectifier from Ducati stopped charging, so I replaced it with
the Schicke GR6. Charged the new battery and still the same heavy load on
the starter. In my search for the problem, I checked all electrical
connection and noticed when looking at a drawing from your site that the
Starter contactor (STARTER SOLENOID 22735 from Aircraft Spruce) is wired
with the diode between the grounding poles, i.e. one to the starter switch,
diode between poles and the other to the ground.
When I connected the contactor at the time of building, I was adviced to
just connect the one pole, i.e. from starter switch to the pole and the
diode directly to ground on the mounting bracket for the contactor. Is this
correct or should I change it to the same as on your drawings?
Could this hook-up be the cause for a bad starter?
I removed the starter yesterday and it has been overheating and a few wires
have soot and melted connections. The engine has 250 hrs. total time on it.
Hope you can help,
Regards,
Johann G.
Iceland.
Zenith 701
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Icom A-210 intercom (Question) |
Are you Gents happy with the intercom on the Icom A-210?
-
I gather the squelch is OK if set or may be not good for loud cockpit?
-
Good bad ugly, would you do it again or would you add a dedicated intercom?
-
Thanks George.=0A=0A=0A
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Icom A-210 intercom (Question) |
The intercom function on my unit has been fine. Once I got the
squelch set. The directions were not very clear. Or I did not read
them correctly. I think the translation leaves something to be desired.
I am having a problem with reception. It is intermittent. Sent it
back once, and now have to send it back again. I loose reception, and
it is hard to tell. After a while of silence, I realize that it is
quiet. Change frequencies to AWOS or such, and get part of a
reception, then out. Cycle the switch Off-On and then receive the
broadcast.
The support has been good, but the radio is getting more flight time
than the plane. They seem hesitant to replace it with a new one. Hope
I don't have to get serious with them.
Kevin Boddicker
Tri Q 200 N7868B 135 hours
Luana, IA.
On Jul 7, 2009, at 5:37 AM, gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com wrote:
> Are you Gents happy with the intercom on the Icom A-210?
>
> I gather the squelch is OK if set or may be not good for loud cockpit?
>
> Good bad ugly, would you do it again or would you add a dedicated
> intercom?
>
> Thanks George.
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Icom A-210 intercom (Question) |
Kevin - have you ruled out the antenna & connections by trying another one?
Like you, I also tried building the Mike Dwyer, but could never get the VSWR
dialed in properly. I finally bought a Bob Archer.
Sam
On Tue, Jul 7, 2009 at 6:46 AM, Kevin Boddicker <trumanst@neitel.net> wrote:
> The intercom function on my unit has been fine. Once I got the squelch set.
> The directions were not very clear. Or I did not read them correctly. I
> think the translation leaves something to be desired.I am having a problem
> with reception. It is intermittent. Sent it back once, and now have to send
> it back again. I loose reception, and it is hard to tell. After a while of
> silence, I realize that it is quiet. Change frequencies to AWOS or such, and
> get part of a reception, then out. Cycle the switch Off-On and then receive
> the broadcast.
> The support
> has been good, but the radio is getting more flight time than the plane. They
seem hesitant to replace it with a new one.
> Hope I don't have to get serious with them.
>
> Kevin Boddicker
> Tri Q 200 N7868B 135 hours
> Luana, IA.
>
>
> On Jul 7, 2009, at 5:37 AM, gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Are you Gents happy with the intercom on the Icom A-210?
>
> I gather the squelch is OK if set or may be not good for loud cockpit?
>
> Good bad ugly, would you do it again or would you add a dedicated intercom?
>
> Thanks George.
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> *
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Connection of the starter relay (STARTER SOLENOID |
22735)
Hmmm . . . sounds like more than one problem.
First, you can KNOW if your rectifier/regulator is working properly with an accurate
voltmeter. The absolute minimum bus voltage after you've been flying for
awhile is 13.8 volts. The best voltage setting for use on airplanes or other
low duty-cycle vehicles (a few hours per week) is 14.2 to 14.4 volts.
Your battery should be checked for load-bearing ability. Use a service station
style load tester like
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Testers/HF91129_4.jpg
For a 17 a.h. battery, crank the load current up until the battery voltage as read
on the meter is 9 volts. Keep adjusting the current to maintain 9 volt reading
for 15 seconds (this particular device has built in timer) and not the current
after the time has expired. A healthy 17 a.h. battery will still be putting
out 300 plus amps. A 12 a.h. battery will be in the 200 amp range. Test
values below these numbers will give rise to suspicions of poor cranking performance
due to battery condition.
The fact that you need to jumper the battery for routine starting says the battery
is not being properly charged, the batter is going soft, the starter is drawing
an inordinate amount of current or some combination of these three. Cooked
wires says they're too small or the starter is drawing too much current . .
. or some combination of these two. Check your starter current while cranking
(use jumpers if necessary) by measuring with . . .
http://www.hoytmeter.com/products/Models_629_Starter_Current_Indicators.html
Compare your readings with another airplane with same engine/starer. But I would
suspect that anything over 150 amps is too much and suggests a starter motor
problem.
The existence of a diode (or lack thereof) on the starter contactor has no effect
on the considerations cited above.
Bob . . .
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251931#251931
Message 6
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Subject: | Connection of the starter relay (STARTER SOLENOID |
22735)
Johann=2C
I built a Rotax 912 powered SkyRanger and a Jabiru 3300 powered Sonex.
I noticed in the Schicke GR6 documentation that they suggested using 6AWG w
ire for power and ground. Some of my friends have used this gauge wire and
they too have "weak starter" issues. My power and ground wires are 4AWG wel
ders cable soldered on like this...
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/big_term.pdf
The trick is to jam as much solid copper wire as you can into the lug prior
to soldering=2C get the solder flowing and get out before you overdo it.
My starters spin rapidly=2C my motors always start quickly (even in the col
d) and the wires don't get hot.
One other tip... The "internal" ground may be poor. Be sure to brighten all
mounting nuts/bolts/studs and apply antioxidant grease (Vaseline will do i
n a pinch) and re-torque to specs. Don't over-torque.
Hope this helps and hope anyone more knowledgeable than myself can correct
any misinformation I may have posted.
Rodney in Tennessee
_________________________________________________________________
Lauren found her dream laptop. Find the PC that=92s right for you.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/choosepc/?ocid=ftp_val_wl_290
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Icom A-210 intercom (Question) |
I have tried another one, but not to test this problem.
I did send Mike Dwyer my VSWR numbers and he said they were on the
money. I built his antenna, and used new high $ coax and ends from
SteinAir.
I have also talked to others on 122.75 at a distance of over 150
miles. It was not loud, but clear. I think there is an internal
problem with this unit. I will let you know when it comes back from
Icom. I am sending it in today.
Kevin
On Jul 7, 2009, at 7:05 AM, Sam Hoskins wrote:
> Kevin - have you ruled out the antenna & connections by trying
> another one? Like you, I also tried building the Mike Dwyer, but
> could never get the VSWR dialed in properly. I finally bought a
> Bob Archer.
>
> Sam
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 7, 2009 at 6:46 AM, Kevin Boddicker
> <trumanst@neitel.net> wrote:
> The intercom function on my unit has been fine. Once I got the
> squelch set. The directions were not very clear. Or I did not read
> them correctly. I think the translation leaves something to be
> desired.
> I am having a problem with reception. It is intermittent. Sent it
> back once, and now have to send it back again. I loose reception,
> and it is hard to tell. After a while of silence, I realize that it
> is quiet. Change frequencies to AWOS or such, and get part of a
> reception, then out. Cycle the switch Off-On and then receive the
> broadcast.
> The support has been good, but the radio is getting more flight
> time than the plane. They seem hesitant to replace it with a new
> one. Hope I don't have to get serious with them.
>
> Kevin Boddicker
> Tri Q 200 N7868B 135 hours
> Luana, IA.
>
>
> On Jul 7, 2009, at 5:37 AM, gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>> Are you Gents happy with the intercom on the Icom A-210?
>>
>> I gather the squelch is OK if set or may be not good for loud
>> cockpit?
>>
>> Good bad ugly, would you do it again or would you add a dedicated
>> intercom?
>>
>> Thanks George.
>>
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://
>> www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
>> www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
> ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?
> AeroElectric-List
> a>http://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Spike catcher diode |
On the stock Van's battery contactor, there is only three terminals (two
5 1/6 and one 3/16 front and center). I am unsure where to install the
IN5400 diode. Can anyone comment on proper placement? Also, what about
the diode placement on the Van's stock starter contactor? Please excuse
my very "green" hands regarding electronics.learning!
Thanks!
Wade Roe
EAA 557
Aeronca 7AC flying
RV-7 nearing completion
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 1:33 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Spike catcher diode
At 11:09 AM 7/3/2009, you wrote:
I have the stock Van's master and starter contactors. Does anyone know
if either of these items have internal diodes? Also, what size diode
should be used on the starter contactor assuming an external is needed?
I'm referencing AEC Z-13/8. Thanks!
The master certainly would not. The starter MIGHT
and would say so stamped on the under side of
the mounting flange. In any case, two suppressors
are better than no suppressors.
There are no rectifier diodes you can pick that
will be at-risk for electrical overload. My personal
favorites are the electrical over-kill (but
mechanically robust) 1N540x series. These
are really inexpensive and available from
Radio Shack and others . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/RS_Diodes.jpg
The 1A, 1N400x series are electrically quite
adequate but more fragile.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Spike catcher diode |
Hi Wade,
You need to put the diode directly across the coil with the cathode
(the end marked with a stripe) connected to +12V. On a three terminal
contactor, +12V is on the terminal connected to the battery. Then
connect the anode to the small terminal used to actuate the relay.
Attached drawings lifted out of one of Bob's publications.
On Tue, 7 Jul 2009 10:53:39 -0500
"Wade Roe" <wroe1@dbtech.net> wrote:
> On the stock Van's battery contactor, there is only three terminals (two
> 5 1/6 and one 3/16 front and center). I am unsure where to install the
> IN5400 diode. Can anyone comment on proper placement? Also, what about
> the diode placement on the Van's stock starter contactor? Please excuse
> my very "green" hands regarding electronics.learning!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Wade Roe
>
> EAA 557
> Aeronca 7AC flying
> RV-7 nearing completion
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Robert L. Nuckolls, III
> Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 1:33 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Spike catcher diode
>
> At 11:09 AM 7/3/2009, you wrote:
>
>
> I have the stock Van's master and starter contactors. Does anyone know
> if either of these items have internal diodes? Also, what size diode
> should be used on the starter contactor assuming an external is needed?
> I'm referencing AEC Z-13/8. Thanks!
>
> The master certainly would not. The starter MIGHT
> and would say so stamped on the under side of
> the mounting flange. In any case, two suppressors
> are better than no suppressors.
>
> There are no rectifier diodes you can pick that
> will be at-risk for electrical overload. My personal
> favorites are the electrical over-kill (but
> mechanically robust) 1N540x series. These
> are really inexpensive and available from
> Radio Shack and others . . .
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/RS_Diodes.jpg
>
> The 1A, 1N400x series are electrically quite
> adequate but more fragile.
>
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ---------------------------------------
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ---------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
--
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
3.8 Hours Total Time and holding
Cables for your rotary installation - http://roblinstores.com/
Message 10
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Subject: | Spike catcher diode |
Vertical Power has a nice document explaining contactor wiring.
http://www.verticalpower.com/docs/Contactor_Wiring.pdf
bob
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wade Roe
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 11:54 AM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Spike catcher diode
On the stock Van's battery contactor, there is only three terminals (two 5
1/6 and one 3/16 front and center). I am unsure where to install the IN5400
diode. Can anyone comment on proper placement? Also, what about the diode
placement on the Van's stock starter contactor? Please excuse my very
"green" hands regarding electronics.learning!
Thanks!
Wade Roe
EAA 557
Aeronca 7AC flying
RV-7 nearing completion
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 1:33 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Spike catcher diode
At 11:09 AM 7/3/2009, you wrote:
I have the stock Van's master and starter contactors. Does anyone know if
either of these items have internal diodes? Also, what size diode should be
used on the starter contactor assuming an external is needed? I'm
referencing AEC Z-13/8. Thanks!
The master certainly would not. The starter MIGHT
and would say so stamped on the under side of
the mounting flange. In any case, two suppressors
are better than no suppressors.
There are no rectifier diodes you can pick that
will be at-risk for electrical overload. My personal
favorites are the electrical over-kill (but
mechanically robust) 1N540x series. These
are really inexpensive and available from
Radio Shack and others . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/RS_Diodes.jpg
The 1A, 1N400x series are electrically quite
adequate but more fragile.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
- The AeroElectric-List Email Forum -
--> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
- MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
--> http://forums.matronics.com
- List Contribution Web Site -
Thank you for your generous support!
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
--> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 11
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Subject: | Spike catcher diode |
Thanks for the comments. The Vertical Power doc. is nicely done.
Wade Roe
EAA 557
Aeronca 7AC flying
RV-7 nearing completion
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Leffler
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 12:00 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Spike catcher diode
Vertical Power has a nice document explaining contactor wiring.
http://www.verticalpower.com/docs/Contactor_Wiring.pdf
bob
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wade
Roe
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 11:54 AM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Spike catcher diode
On the stock Van's battery contactor, there is only three terminals (two
5 1/6 and one 3/16 front and center). I am unsure where to install the
IN5400 diode. Can anyone comment on proper placement? Also, what about
the diode placement on the Van's stock starter contactor? Please excuse
my very "green" hands regarding electronics.learning!
Thanks!
Wade Roe
EAA 557
Aeronca 7AC flying
RV-7 nearing completion
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 1:33 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Spike catcher diode
At 11:09 AM 7/3/2009, you wrote:
I have the stock Van's master and starter contactors. Does anyone know
if either of these items have internal diodes? Also, what size diode
should be used on the starter contactor assuming an external is needed?
I'm referencing AEC Z-13/8. Thanks!
The master certainly would not. The starter MIGHT
and would say so stamped on the under side of
the mounting flange. In any case, two suppressors
are better than no suppressors.
There are no rectifier diodes you can pick that
will be at-risk for electrical overload. My personal
favorites are the electrical over-kill (but
mechanically robust) 1N540x series. These
are really inexpensive and available from
Radio Shack and others . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/RS_Diodes.jpg
The 1A, 1N400x series are electrically quite
adequate but more fragile.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
- The AeroElectric-List Email Forum -
--> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
- MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
--> http://forums.matronics.com
- List Contribution Web Site -
Thank you for your generous support!
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
--> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 12
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Subject: | Inspection camera |
Huge long thread here and perhaps I missed some of the discussion...
HF had them on sale plus I had a 20% off coupon; had to bite.
Finally got around to playing with it.
Pretty cute, but...
The manual has no mention of focal distances.
For some reason I expected some form of adjustment; nada.
About the closest it seemed to focus was ~4 inches.
Tried to read some text and stamped serial numbers; nearly impossible.
Were any planning on using this for any form of detailed inspection,
or just a "what's in there" look-see?
As cute as it is, I'm finding it difficult to find an application
where any detail at all is required.
Others having different results?
Ron Q.
At 15:21 6/17/2009, you wrote:
>I played with it last night and took the monitor two rooms away from
>the camera and still had a picture...
><snip>
>
>It looks like the newer models that Ridgid is still selling under
>their own name, no longer have that option.
>
>Harley
Message 13
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Subject: | Inspection camera |
Apologies; found more of the thread.
Looks like others too are also finding close work not great.
Any further opinions?
>Huge long thread here and perhaps I missed some of the discussion...
>HF had them on sale plus I had a 20% off coupon; had to bite.
>Finally got around to playing with it.
>Pretty cute, but...
>The manual has no mention of focal distances.
>For some reason I expected some form of adjustment; nada.
>About the closest it seemed to focus was ~4 inches.
>Tried to read some text and stamped serial numbers; nearly impossible.
>
>Were any planning on using this for any form of detailed inspection,
>or just a "what's in there" look-see?
>
>As cute as it is, I'm finding it difficult to find an application
>where any detail at all is required.
>Others having different results?
>
>Ron Q.
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
In my hangar we fight mud dobbers and I will look through the wing inspection holes
and be able to tell them at 4" or greater. It'll be worth it for me for
just that use.
Ron Burnett
N1131B-8A Moscow Mills, MO
--
---- Ron Quillin <rjquillin@gmail.com> wrote:
============
Apologies; found more of the thread.
Looks like others too are also finding close work not great.
Any further opinions?
>Huge long thread here and perhaps I missed some of the discussion...
>HF had them on sale plus I had a 20% off coupon; had to bite.
>Finally got around to playing with it.
>Pretty cute, but...
>The manual has no mention of focal distances.
>For some reason I expected some form of adjustment; nada.
>About the closest it seemed to focus was ~4 inches.
>Tried to read some text and stamped serial numbers; nearly impossible.
>
>Were any planning on using this for any form of detailed inspection,
>or just a "what's in there" look-see?
>
>As cute as it is, I'm finding it difficult to find an application
>where any detail at all is required.
>Others having different results?
>
>Ron Q.
Message 15
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