AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Fri 07/10/09


Total Messages Posted: 13



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:35 AM - Spike catcher diode ()
     2. 04:05 AM - Switch bezel nuts (rer51)
     3. 04:35 AM - Re: Switch bezel nuts (Neal George)
     4. 05:23 AM - Re: Switch bezel nuts (John Ciolino)
     5. 11:50 AM - Re: Re: Spike catcher diode (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     6. 12:35 PM - Re: Spike catcher diode  (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     7. 12:51 PM - Re: Grounding question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     8. 02:00 PM - Contactor question (Bob Leffler)
     9. 06:12 PM - Using Mono Headset in Sterio Jack (John)
    10. 07:40 PM - Re: Using Mono Headset in Sterio Jack (Charlie England)
    11. 07:52 PM - BMA Quitting ()
    12. 08:07 PM - Re: Contactor question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    13. 09:24 PM - Re: Using Mono Headset in Sterio Jack (The Kuffels)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 03:35:25 AM PST US
    From: <bakerocb@cox.net>
    Subject: Spike catcher diode
    7/10/2009 Hello Glenn, You wrote: "I haven't decided if I'm going to use zeeners, diodes or just replace the solenoid on some scheduled basis. I've yet to see anything from anyone which shows how much longer (days, weeks or years) a solenoid lasts by adding these gadgets. The problem is real, but actual life expectancy needs to be measured to satisfy my interest." I think that the primary purpose of a spike catcher device is to protect the points in the switch controlling the current through the solonoid coil. The switch points are much more fragile and susceptible to failure than the solonoid contact points. We frequently see reports of switch point failures, particularly in the keyed ignition switches. 'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and understand knowledge." ========================================== Time: 09:18:10 AM PST US Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Spike catcher diode From: <longg@pjm.com> Wade, Which approach (Zeners, Diodes or nothing) you choose is up to you. On my website link below you can see where I employed Van's "blue" starter diode (I have an extra contactor 'cause it's IR) which uses the same approach. As Bob indicated I snaked the other end around the contactor to the mounting bolt. Van's little direction sheet is quite clear - don't deviate from it. In my case the solenoids are mounted on carbon fiber so I use a ground back to the FG. I haven't decided if I'm going to use zeeners, diodes or just replace the solenoid on some scheduled basis. I've yet to see anything from anyone which shows how much longer (days, weeks or years) a solenoid lasts by adding these gadgets. The problem is real, but actual life expectancy needs to be measured to satisfy my interest. If you are the typical pilot which flies 35 hours / year it will fail from sitting around before it fails from arching. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_hkAHk0Xu6wo/SdymLdP-KbI/AAAAAAAAA1A/rF4p8Xvi2U U/s1600-h/IMG_1312.JPG Glenn


    Message 2


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    Time: 04:05:40 AM PST US
    From: "rer51" <rer51@netscape.ca>
    Subject: Switch bezel nuts
    I am looking for a source for the switch bezel rings. I currently have a mix of different one and would like to standardize them. So far every supplier say that I must buy "new" complete switches to get the rings. Help would be appreciated. Randy R. RV9A "gittin' close"


    Message 3


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    Time: 04:35:42 AM PST US
    From: "Neal George" <n8zg@mchsi.com>
    Subject: Switch bezel nuts
    Randy - I've bought loose switch nuts from both Stein and B&C. From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rer51 Sent: Friday, July 10, 2009 6:02 AM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switch bezel nuts I am looking for a source for the switch bezel rings. I currently have a mix of different one and would like to standardize them. So far every supplier say that I must buy "new" complete switches to get the rings. Help would be appreciated. Randy R. RV9A "gittin' close"


    Message 4


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    Time: 05:23:02 AM PST US
    From: "John Ciolino" <johnciolino@comcast.net>
    Subject: Switch bezel nuts
    Both Mouser(sp?) and Digikey sell individual bezel nuts John Ciolino From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rer51 Sent: Friday, July 10, 2009 7:02 AM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switch bezel nuts I am looking for a source for the switch bezel rings. I currently have a mix of different one and would like to standardize them. So far every supplier say that I must buy "new" complete switches to get the rings. Help would be appreciated. Randy R. RV9A "gittin' close"


    Message 5


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    Time: 11:50:03 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Spike catcher diode
    At 09:13 AM 7/8/2009, you wrote: <emjones@charter.net> > >This issue has been argued here for years, so spare me your flames Bob. Please cite any posting I've made that could be reasonably (or even unreasonably) described as a "flame". They're all in the archives . . . cut and paste a direct quotation please. >Today, no electronic engineer recommends diodes >for contactor coil suppression. They are not the >best, nor the second, nor the third, nor even fourth best way to do the job. "The job" is not a constant . . . The means by which "the job" is accomplished is also not a constant. Many papers have been written on replay performance and system integration issues. Some were done by very competent designers who were marginal writers/teachers. For example: In the paper at: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Reference_Docs/Tyco/Tyco-Paper_on_Coil_Suppressi on.pdf The paper opens with a concern for damage to normally open contacts that are switching high- inrush currents and attributes this to selection of coil suppression technique. In fact, the damage being cited is mostly a matter of contact bounce during a stressful portion of the operating cycle where contacts close, open and re-close perhaps a dozen times (at the worst possible moment) when the switched currents are many times higher than the steady state ratings of the contacts. Further, coil suppression has nothing to do with contactor performance on energizing the coil, only upon the de-energizing event. Keep in mind too that these guys write about RELAYS rated to advertised service life in tens of thousands if not hundreds of thousands of cycles. We're discussing battery and starter contactors that will probably fail due to corrosion before they die from service life stresses. Finally, I did real studies of changes to contact spreading velocity at de-energization for the two most aggressive devices in the airplane . . . battery and starter contactors. I thought I might have obvserved a 2 or 3% increase in arcing time for diode versus NO coil suppression. How does this drive a decision to put the hex on the lowly diode coil suppressor? >Mechanical relays and contactors depend upon >magnetism generated by an electric current >running through a wire coil. When the current >stops, the magnetic field collapses. But the >relay does not know the difference between a >wire coil moving in a magnetic field (as in a >generator) or a magnetic field moving in a wire >coil (as in a collapsing magnetic field). Thus a >large voltage=941000V to 1500V typically=94is >induced in the coil. This current goes the same >direction the original current did=94so it slows >the contact opening=94allowing arcing, chatter, >bouncing, contact welding and even >re-closure! Perihelion Design sells 18V 600W >Bi-Directional Zener Transient Voltage >Suppressors P6KE18CA (for 14.5V systems) that >provide the most modern technical solution to relay coil suppression. > >See my website or buy your own. The Gigavac GX11 >contactor already has bidirectional zeners for >coil suppression. Gee, I wonder why!?\ I can suggest a good reason why: Simple diodes are polarity sensitive . . . I.e. if you build the diode into the contactor, options for coil connection are bounded by polarity of the diode. In starter contactors where diodes are commonly built in, the base of the contactor is always (-) so the built in diode offers low risk for miswiring. Bi-directional Transorbs are goof-proof. The bi-directional zener offers a form of coil energy suppression that is not polarity sensitive and dissipates stored inductive energy in a combination of coil resistance and I*E product of the zener. Further current tending to keep the contactor closed after deenergizing has a lower on-set value . . . hence the faster drop-out response. >This issue has been argued here for years, so ignore me Bob. So why bring it up again? I've measured, demonstrated and explained the value/function of the various coil transient suppression methods on the devices we're talking about . . . CONTACTORS. http://tinyurl.com/mcgg87 On your website at: http://www.periheliondesign.com/suppressors.htm you say . . . "Thus a large voltage=AD1000V to 1500V typically=ADis induced in the coil. This current goes the same direction the original current did=ADso it slows the contact opening=ADallowing arcing, chatter, bouncing, contact welding and even re-closure!" The first statement is correct, the voltage is high . . . but fails to say where it goes or what devices are placed at risk. A diode delays contact opening after the coil power is removed. But differences in contact spreading velocity are so small (if they exist at all) as to be difficult to measure. I challenge you to go to the workbench and show me a setup that produces bounce, chatter, increased arcing, tendencies to weld N.O. contacts upon de-energization, and/or evidence of re-closure as a consequence of simple diode coil suppression. If not demonstrable, how about a hypothesis as to how contacts that are moving away from each other are subject to a force that accelerates the contact mass in the opposite direction and effects re-closure? May I suggest this notion is absurd the the extreme? Your hypothesized 60v transient generated by simply turning off a large load is also in error. This event happens during the automotive definition of load dump that includes a BATTERY DISCONNECT. Alternators that go through MPA's rebuild facilities are tested for it's effect on the alternator . . . believe me it can be a whole lot worse than 60V. But this is rare in airplanes. What's the likelihood that dropping a max rated load is exactly coincident with opening the battery contactor? In your functional description at: http://www.periheliondesign.com/suppressors/Whackjack%20Manual.pdf There's no mention of battery disconnect . . . hence the 60v number is hyperbolic persuasion. Your citation of FAR 25.581 is equally hyperbolic. If you're going to evoke lightning qualification issues to an RV, then believe me, the task is about 100x more complex than adding a "WhackJack" to the system. I've managed numerous investigations into relay and switch contact failures in 40+ years of hammering on airplanes. It was not uncommon to discover things about some products than the "engineers" and "manufacturer's reps" assigned to support those products did not know. Quite often, those individuals were tasked with supporting a legacy product they didn't design and never integrated into a system. There's an archive of Tyco publications on the subject at: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Reference_Docs/Tyco/ These are largely factual and the ideas presented are useful to consider where applicable . . . but they don't apply to what we've been talking about. If you choose to play in this sandbox, bring the right shovel, bucket and support them with a willingness to explain and teach. I'm sure that your products perform as they are intended to by their designers. But their prophylactic application to ward off the gremlins described on your website is not consistent with what we have known about electrical systems (and their component parts) in airplane for over 100 years. Bob . . .


    Message 6


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    Time: 12:35:59 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Spike catcher diode
    >I haven't decided if I'm going to use zeeners, diodes or just >replace the solenoid on some scheduled basis. I've yet to see >anything from anyone which shows how much longer (days, weeks or >years) a solenoid lasts by adding these gadgets. The inclusion of coil suppression is for the benefit of the controlling device (switch or push-button). From the time that batteries and starters went into light airplanes (1945?) until the rectifier diodes came to Cessna's attention (1963?) there was no coil suppression on battery or starter contactors. We had a devil of a time converting a leaded electronic component into an airplane part. We COULD have attached the diodes like this . . . http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Contactors/s701-1.jpg But somebody decided to mount the diodes on little strips of phenolic sheet with eyelets at the ends to accept screws and wires with terminals crimped on them. Added a whole lot of labor and fragility to an otherwise inexpensive, robust device. I note that the Cessna Service parts lists still show a lot of "diode assemblies" for $15 to $50. So I guess they're still sticking diodes on some form of built-up assembly. Even today, plain-vanilla diodes are used across contactors in production aircraft. > The problem is real, but actual life expectancy needs to be > measured to satisfy my interest. Excellent question. I don't recall that we were ever aware of a service life "problem" with either contactors or their controlling switches in the years before diodes. But I recall Gordon Wood (our PhD physicist) putting a H-P peak- reading voltmeter across a contactor coil, seeing a 500+ volt reading and saying, "Hot damn . . . we need to do something about that!" And we did. Given that we were unaware of service life issues attributable to LACK of DIODES, we were destined to be equally ignorant of service life benefits after diodes were ADDED. But we sure took care of that 500v spike! I don't think Gordo ever put a 'scope on the system to see where the spike goes. I suspect he would have seen this: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Spike_Catching/CH_Opening_No_Suppression.gif Noise conducted to the bus is very low energy, low amplitude compared to what the controlling switch sees. If you are the typical pilot which flies 35 hours / year it will fail from sitting around before it fails from arching. Exactly! There's a ton of papers written to the task of wringing the last few hours of service life from various products rated in gazillions of cycles. But if there was ever a low duty-cycle application for any electro-whizzy, it's the personally owned light airplane, snow-mobile, or bass boat. Your perception of effects of age and environment being more profound than effects of service life is quite accurate! Bob . . .


    Message 7


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    Time: 12:51:35 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Grounding question
    At 11:17 AM 7/8/2009, you wrote: > >Hi Bob and all, > >A buddy asked for help in adapting the wiring of his factory built >Rotax 912 S aircraft. >He wishes something more similar to fig Z16 > >His battery, contactor, regulator and capacitor are under the seats, >whereas the ground bus is on the firewall. >The factory originally grounded the regulator and battery contactor >direct at the minus post of the battery. >Is it advisable to retain this configuration, or would it be better >to ground those at the ground bus on the firewall, and retain only >one fat ground wire running from the fwl to the minus pole of the battery. > >Thanks in advance for your help, You will note that none of the Z-figures attaches more than single, fat-wire to a battery terminal. I know some manufacturers of electro-whizzies are fond of asking builders to "hook my product right to the battery terminals". In the world of TC aircraft, we're sensitive to the effects of wrench-monkies who routinely replace certain articles over the lifetime of the airplane. Batteries certainly get replaced about as often as tires. It's not considered good practice to inject more variability than necessary into the reliable opening/closing of a fastener. Hence, batteries never get more than one wire on their terminals. In some cases, we even eliminated human-induced variability by designing batteries with connectors on them! Emacs! The short answer is, I recommend you stay with the architecture described in Z-16. Bob . . . --------------------------------------- ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ---------------------------------------


    Message 8


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    Time: 02:00:23 PM PST US
    From: "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com>
    Subject: Contactor question
    I'm currently planning a VP-200 Config 4 implementation in my RV-10 (similar in concept to Z-14). I'm at the stage where I need to install any required conduit, so I started some high level physical power wire planning. If I keep the battery and x-tie contactors in the rear with the batteries, it appears that I have to run 13 wires from the firewall back to the batteries, whereas if I locate the battery and x-tie contactors up front, only 5 wires will need to be run to the batteries. This appears to be a no-brainer decision to minimize the amount of wire to be installed. Are there any issues with not having these contactors co-located with the batteries (assuming appropriate wire gauges are used)? I would be interested in talking with any RV-10 builders that are considering a Config 4 implementation, as well as those that initially thought about a Config 4 then switched to another config. thanks, bob


    Message 9


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    Time: 06:12:56 PM PST US
    From: "John" <rv6a@rogers.com>
    Subject: Using Mono Headset in Sterio Jack
    Hi Bob Are there any issues to be concerned about if I was to use a mono headset in jacks that are wired for stereo? Thanks John


    Message 10


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    Time: 07:40:45 PM PST US
    From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: Using Mono Headset in Sterio Jack
    John wrote: > Hi Bob > > Are there any issues to be concerned about if I was to use a mono > headset in jacks that are wired for stereo? > > Thanks > > John > If you plug a mono plug in a stereo jack, the 2nd channel will be tied to the ground 'sleeve' of the plug. It probably won't hurt the intercom (it probably has series resistors in its outputs to protect against just this issue) but it sure ain't gonna help. There are several possible 'workarounds'. The simplest (which will lose the right channel from the intercom) is to wire a stereo plug (tip & sleeve only) to a mono inline jack. Leave the ring terminal of the stereo plug unconnected. Use this adapter between the headset plug & your intercom jack. Charlie


    Message 11


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    Time: 07:52:39 PM PST US
    From: <bakerocb@cox.net>
    Subject: BMA Quitting
    7/10/2009 Below copied for your info from the BMA web site. 'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and understand knowledge." =============================================== "Well, it's been fun. We developed a whole new class of machine, started an industry, dominated it, and are now leaving it. BMA will be ceasing production and spinning down. The best way to contact us is via email: support@bluemountainavionics.com. Please don't call, since the office is not staffed on a scheduled basis. We'll still be around to service, support and assist as time permits, homebuilders helping other homebuilders, but BMA is essentially closed. This website is paid up and will be around for a few years at least, and there is some hope (and a fond desire) that we may return to full production when the economy recovers. Database updates are still be available on this site, and service, maintenance and repairs are still available for all BMA products. We are actively seeking someone to buy the code and continue development. If your interested, please email."


    Message 12


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    Time: 08:07:20 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Contactor question
    At 04:01 PM 7/10/2009, you wrote: >I'm currently planning a VP-200 Config 4 implementation in my RV-10 >(similar in concept to Z-14). > >I'm at the stage where I need to install any required conduit, so I >started some high level physical power wire planning. > >If I keep the battery and x-tie contactors in the rear with the >batteries, it appears that I have to run 13 wires from the firewall >back to the batteries, whereas if I locate the battery and x-tie >contactors up front, only 5 wires will need to be run to the batteries. For Z-14 with rear mounted batteries consider mounting the contactors aft and the crossfeed contactor on the forward side of the firewall. This provides a good power distribution location for fat wires forward of the firewall. If batteries are aft, then you have two fat wires coming forward. Batteries are grounded locally. http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Batteries/Battery_Install_OBrien_1.jpg http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Batteries/Battery_Install_OBrien_2.jpg http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Batteries/Battery_Install_OBrien_3.jpg This leaves two contactor wires plus what ever wires come forward off the battery busses. Bob . . . --------------------------------------- ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ---------------------------------------


    Message 13


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    Time: 09:24:46 PM PST US
    From: "The Kuffels" <kuffel@cyberport.net>
    Subject: Re: Using Mono Headset in Sterio Jack
    << Are there any issues to be concerned about if I was to use a mono headset in jacks that are wired for stereo? .. John >> << There are several possible 'workarounds'. The simplest (which will lose the right channel from the intercom) is to wire a stereo plug (tip & sleeve only) to a mono inline jack. .. Charlie >> There is an even simpler, but not foolproof, workaround. Insert the mono plug only to the first detent, not all the way in. It will stick out about 3/16 inch. This connects both sides of the mono headset to one stereo channel. Be careful to not accidentally push the plug in all the way. Tom Kuffel




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