Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:57 AM - Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity (Sam Hoskins)
2. 05:17 AM - Re: Van's gauges (Neil Clayton)
3. 05:47 AM - Re: Wig-Wagging HDI lamps (N395V)
4. 05:53 AM - Re: Wig-Wagging HDI lamps (N395V)
5. 06:08 AM - Re: Van's gauges (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 06:09 AM - Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 06:47 AM - Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity (Sam Hoskins)
8. 07:11 AM - Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 08:37 AM - Re: test (Richard Girard)
10. 09:11 AM - Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity (Jason Beaver)
11. 09:44 AM - Re: Re: Wig-Wagging HDI lamps ()
12. 10:57 AM - Corrosion Paste On Terminal Lugs... (Matt Dralle)
13. 11:43 AM - Re: Corrosion Paste On Terminal Lugs... (Matt Prather)
14. 12:19 PM - Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 01:39 PM - Re: Tachometer Generator Wiring (Craig Winkelmann)
16. 02:49 PM - Re: Corrosion Paste On Terminal Lugs... (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 02:51 PM - Re: Re: Tachometer Generator Wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity |
I have had rotten luck with the Radio Shack metalized D-sub shells. They
fall apart quite easily.
But, why should that be surprising?
Sam
On Tue, Sep 15, 2009 at 11:26 PM, Jason Beaver <jason@jasonbeaver.com>wrote:
> Are there quality differences between different brands of d-sub connectors
> that I should worry about? I purchased a couple of d-sub 9 pin solder cup
> connectors made by Pan Pacific at a local electronics supplier:
>
> http://www.jasonbeaver.com/rv7/rv7pictures/Scaled/20090915/CIMG0524.JPG
>
> Would these be acceptable or would any of you recommend a certain brand and
> supplier?
>
> Also, what is the rated current capacity per pin? I'm considering using
> these to hook up a Dynon RV-7 autopilot servo (to make disconnection easy if
> I ever need to). Is this acceptable or would any of you recommend another
> way to hook the servo up?
>
> thanks,
>
> jason
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 2
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It's never 14+v. Since it's a pusher, I had assumed there's a voltage
drop between the alternator and where I'm sampling the voltage behind
the panel - about 8 feet away.
Sounds like it's something I need to look into. The alternator is new.
Neil
At 10:09 PM 9/14/2009, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
><nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
>
>>Voltage display is about 11v most of the time (I have a digital
>>voltmeter hooked up to the bus showing a true 13.5 volts)
>
> Under what conditions? With the engine running and the
> alternator supporting all the ship's electrical loads,
> one would expect 14.2 to 14.6 volts on the bus.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ---------------------------------------
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ---------------------------------------
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Wig-Wagging HDI lamps |
> their warranty is reduced from 5000 hours
> without the pulsing to 3000 hours with it.
>
So if I fly 300 hrs a year and use the lights with a wig wag 10% of the time and
it really shortens the life of the lights by 2000 hours then....
I will have to replace the lights after 100 years as opposed to replacing them
after 166 years. is that correct?
--------
Milt
2003 F1 Rocket
2006 Radial Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263290#263290
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Wig-Wagging HDI lamps |
>
>
> their warranty is reduced from 5000 hours
> without the pulsing to 3000 hours with it.
So if I fly 200 hrs a year and use the lights with a wig wag and it really shortens
the life of the lights by 2000 hours then....
I will have to replace the lights after 10 years as opposed to replacing them after
16.6 years.
--------
Milt
2003 F1 Rocket
2006 Radial Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263291#263291
Message 5
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At 07:04 AM 9/16/2009, you wrote:
>
>It's never 14+v. Since it's a pusher, I had assumed there's a
>voltage drop between the alternator and where I'm sampling the
>voltage behind the panel - about 8 feet away.
>Sounds like it's something I need to look into. The alternator is new.
Hmmmm . . . yeah, you might take some readings
at both the alternator b-lead terminal and the
battery . . . but 0.7v drop is too much. If
your measurements confirm that much drop, then
you need to upsize the b-lead wire.
For example, a 6AWG wire is .00025 ohms per
foot. 10 feet will drop only 0.1 volt at
40Amps. Check the ground path drop between
crankcase and battery (-) too.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity |
At 06:54 AM 9/16/2009, you wrote:
>I have had rotten luck with the Radio Shack metalized D-sub
>shells. They fall apart quite easily.
>
>But, why should that be surprising?
>
>Sam
The ones with removable crimp pins?
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity |
Yes, but it doesn't involve the connector or pins. Almost every RS plastic
metalized hood has fallen apart. It cracks at the screw bosses.
Sam
On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 8:07 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> At 06:54 AM 9/16/2009, you wrote:
>
>> I have had rotten luck with the Radio Shack metalized D-sub shells. They
>> fall apart quite easily.
>>
>> But, why should that be surprising?
>>
>> Sam
>>
>
> The ones with removable crimp pins?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ---------------------------------------
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ---------------------------------------
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity |
At 08:31 AM 9/16/2009, you wrote:
>Yes, but it doesn't involve the connector or pins. Almost every RS
>plastic metalized hood has fallen apart. It cracks at the screw bosses.
>
>Sam
Aha! I guess I've never used those. Good data point.
We get nearly all of our plastic hoods from Marlin
P Jones . . .
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=2859+PL
The metalization of plastic hoods serves no useful
purpose. If there is compelling need to encase the
connector-to-connector wire bundles in a metallic
enclosure, then processes MUCH more complex than
adding a metallic coating to the connector shells
is indicated!
Bob . . .
Message 9
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Received here.
Rick
On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 12:15 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> test
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ---------------------------------------
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ---------------------------------------
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity |
On Sep 15, 2009, at 10:21 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> At 11:26 PM 9/15/2009, you wrote:
>> Are there quality differences between different brands of d-sub
>> connectors that I should worry about? I purchased a couple of d-
>> sub 9 pin solder cup connectors made by Pan Pacific at a local
>> electronics supplier:
>>
>> http://www.jasonbeaver.com/rv7/rv7pictures/Scaled/20090915/CIMG0524.JPG
>>
>> Would these be acceptable or would any of you recommend a certain
>> brand and supplier?
>
> Solder cup and b-crimp connectors come in a huge
> variety of qualities. This is why I like to use
> the machined d-sub pins . . . ALWAYS good electrical
> connection. They also pretty much fit the whole
> range of removable pin d-subs.
I've only seen the machined d-sub pins with crimp connectors (like on
the B&C website). I'm fine using those, but several articles on your
site show d-sub connectors with solder cups. I assume those can be
found with machined pins, but B&C doesn't carry them. Do you know
where I can get these?
>> Also, what is the rated current capacity per pin? I'm considering
>> using these to hook up a Dynon RV-7 autopilot servo (to make
>> disconnection easy if I ever need to). Is this acceptable or would
>> any of you recommend another way to hook the servo up?
>
> The d-sub with machined pins is my preferred connector.
> 20AWG wire in any one pin is good for 7A or so. I like
> to keep it below 5A for a few wires, and 3A average for
> a connector full of wires.
>
> It's almost a certainty that the machined pin d-sub will
> work just fine for the application you proposed.
Thanks for your help!
jason
> Bob . . .
>
> ---------------------------------------
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ---------------------------------------
>
>
Message 11
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|
Subject: | Re: Wig-Wagging HDI lamps |
Sounds like you've pretty much pegged it Milt.
Bob McC
do not archive
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Wig-Wagging HDI lamps
> From: Bearcat@bearcataviation.com
> Date: Wed=2C 16 Sep 2009 05:45:33 -0700
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>
.com>
>
>
> > their warranty is reduced from 5000 hours
> > without the pulsing to 3000 hours with it.
> >
>
>
> So if I fly 300 hrs a year and use the lights with a wig wag 10% of the t
ime and it really shortens the life of the lights by 2000 hours then....
>
> I will have to replace the lights after 100 years as opposed to replacing
them after 166 years. is that correct?
>
> --------
> Milt
> 2003 F1 Rocket
> 2006 Radial Rocket
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263290#263290
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 12
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Subject: | Corrosion Paste On Terminal Lugs... |
What's the common practice regarding that white goo for corrosion protection that
B&C sells? I've been gooping up all sides of the posts and connector including
the contact faces before I've been bolting these kind of connections together
(like the starter lead and battery connections, etc). I was thinking that
it was kind of like heatsink compound where you do just that. But is that really
the right thing to do with this stuff? Or should it just be added to the
outside of the finished connection? If yes, then what should I do with all
of these connections I've already made?
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Engine Baffling...
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Corrosion Paste On Terminal Lugs... |
I think the only place it makes much sense is on the terminals for a
flooded cell lead acid battery.. Applying it to the post before
tightening would provide the best protection and not interfere with
conduction through the joint as long as the hardware is torqued
sufficiently.
I'd guess that the starved cell batteries don't really need the stuff.
Matt-
> <dralle@matronics.com>
>
>
> What's the common practice regarding that white goo for corrosion
> protection that B&C sells? I've been gooping up all sides of the posts
> and connector including the contact faces before I've been bolting these
> kind of connections together (like the starter lead and battery
> connections, etc). I was thinking that it was kind of like heatsink
> compound where you do just that. But is that really the right thing to do
> with this stuff? Or should it just be added to the outside of the
> finished connection? If yes, then what should I do with all of these
> connections I've already made?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com
> Engine Baffling...
>
>
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity |
>I've only seen the machined d-sub pins with crimp connectors (like
>on the B&C website). I'm fine using those, but several articles on
>your site show d-sub connectors with solder cups. I assume those
>can be found with machined pins, but B&C doesn't carry them. Do you
>know where I can get these?
Sure, check the catalogs for any of dozens of
electronics suppliers for high quality solder-cup
connectors . . .
However, know that there are NO D-sub connectors with
solder cups that are machined pins. There are certainly
some high-quality, solder-cup connectors. But the only
reason I produced the article you saw was to accommodate
folks who were installing a system that was supplied with
solder-cup connectors and didn't want to buy new connectors.
On occasion, I find it useful/practical to salvage and re-use
a solder cup connector when my preferred choice isn't
readily available. But I haven't purchased a new
solder-cup connector in probably 15 years. The ability
to pre-terminate wires with the best pins we know how
to make . . . and correct wiring errors with a simple
extraction tool is a VERY powerful personal incentive.
Here's some good sources for solder-cup d-subs:
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/B092/0283.pdf
http://www.mpja.com/products.asp?dept=86
http://tinyurl.com/pq293e
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Tachometer Generator Wiring |
Bob:
Thank you. As always, you keep it simple and do stuff that works. I have also
determined that the two phases connected to the circuit I have was wired improperly.
With two phases there was no ground reference until the tach gen (M-14P)
saw a higher RPM. It was supposed to be wired to one phase and the other
lead grounded (after review of the design),
I have not looked at the waveform out of the M-14P tach gen, but from what you
describe it is a simple and nice way to generate a signal. I had one guy swear
that the tach gen was a "serious source of noise" in his airplane. At such
a low frequency and at 20 V p-p, I don't see how.
I'm going to the airplane Friday to do a bit of rewiring.
Craig
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263383#263383
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Corrosion Paste On Terminal Lugs... |
At 12:54 PM 9/16/2009, you wrote:
>
>
>What's the common practice regarding that white goo for corrosion
>protection that B&C sells?
If its the same material that was in my catalog
at the time they purchased my inventory, that "goo"
is intended as an anti-corrosion, anti-seize treatment
for threaded fasteners exposed to harsh environment.
> I've been gooping up all sides of the posts and connector
> including the contact faces before I've been bolting these kind of
> connections together (like the starter lead and battery
> connections, etc). I was thinking that it was kind of like
> heatsink compound where you do just that. But is that really the
> right thing to do with this stuff? Or should it just be added to
> the outside of the finished connection? If yes, then what should I
> do with all of these connections I've already made?
At no place I've ever worked for over 40 years did
we "goop" any assembled electrical joint. Every joint
was assembled from shiny, clean, dry components of
proper material and appropriate plating. Where critical
mate-up pressures were to be achieved, the work instructions
called for use of a torque wrench in the final tightening.
In other words, a connection that's properly crafted is
so tightly joined that any goop would be extruded out
of the interface . . . and can only protect the micro-
thin edges of the interface.
I have offered the notion that a di-electric grease
MAY be useful when the OBAM aircraft builder needs to
make up a high-current joint that is subject to harsh
environment and/or located in a very hard-to-inspect
location. 99.9% of all made up electrical joints require
nor would they benefit from any 'treatments'. Getting
the necessary force to achieve gas-tight interconnection
is all that's necessary. Most of those issues are
addressed for you when you use fast-on terminals, crimped
or soldered joints, etc. Things held together with threaded
fasteners have the highest risk of human-factors variables.
Even those are no big deal if you simply take common care
for craftsmanship.
I don't know the qualities of the B&C anti-seize
compound as a prophylactic against environmental degradation
of bolted up electrical joints. It MAY be just fine.
I DO know that plain vanilla silicone grease like
Dow Corning DC4 or
http://www.super-lube.com/silicone-dielectric-grease-ez-52.htm
are specific to the preservation of integrity of electrical
joints. I've got a tube of DC4 that's over 30 years old. I
use it on my tail-light bulb sockets and I've
not had one corrode into the socket in many years. But
I don't find it useful to dope many bolted up electrical
joints.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
Message 17
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|
Subject: | Re: Tachometer Generator Wiring |
At 03:37 PM 9/16/2009, you wrote:
><capav8r@gmail.com>
>
>Bob:
>
>Thank you. As always, you keep it simple and do stuff that
>works. I have also determined that the two phases connected to the
>circuit I have was wired improperly. With two phases there was no
>ground reference until the tach gen (M-14P) saw a higher RPM. It
>was supposed to be wired to one phase and the other lead grounded
>(after review of the design),
>
>I have not looked at the waveform out of the M-14P tach gen, but
>from what you describe it is a simple and nice way to generate a
>signal. I had one guy swear that the tach gen was a "serious source
>of noise" in his airplane. At such a low frequency and at 20 V p-p,
>I don't see how.
>
>I'm going to the airplane Friday to do a bit of rewiring.
Good show sir. Let us know what you find.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
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