AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Wed 09/16/09


Total Messages Posted: 17



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:57 AM - Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity (Sam Hoskins)
     2. 05:17 AM - Re: Van's gauges (Neil Clayton)
     3. 05:47 AM - Re: Wig-Wagging HDI lamps (N395V)
     4. 05:53 AM - Re: Wig-Wagging HDI lamps (N395V)
     5. 06:08 AM - Re: Van's gauges (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     6. 06:09 AM - Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     7. 06:47 AM - Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity (Sam Hoskins)
     8. 07:11 AM - Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     9. 08:37 AM - Re: test (Richard Girard)
    10. 09:11 AM - Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity (Jason Beaver)
    11. 09:44 AM - Re: Re: Wig-Wagging HDI lamps ()
    12. 10:57 AM - Corrosion Paste On Terminal Lugs... (Matt Dralle)
    13. 11:43 AM - Re: Corrosion Paste On Terminal Lugs... (Matt Prather)
    14. 12:19 PM - Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    15. 01:39 PM - Re: Tachometer Generator Wiring (Craig Winkelmann)
    16. 02:49 PM - Re: Corrosion Paste On Terminal Lugs... (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    17. 02:51 PM - Re: Re: Tachometer Generator Wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 04:57:43 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity
    From: Sam Hoskins <sam.hoskins@gmail.com>
    I have had rotten luck with the Radio Shack metalized D-sub shells. They fall apart quite easily. But, why should that be surprising? Sam On Tue, Sep 15, 2009 at 11:26 PM, Jason Beaver <jason@jasonbeaver.com>wrote: > Are there quality differences between different brands of d-sub connectors > that I should worry about? I purchased a couple of d-sub 9 pin solder cup > connectors made by Pan Pacific at a local electronics supplier: > > http://www.jasonbeaver.com/rv7/rv7pictures/Scaled/20090915/CIMG0524.JPG > > Would these be acceptable or would any of you recommend a certain brand and > supplier? > > Also, what is the rated current capacity per pin? I'm considering using > these to hook up a Dynon RV-7 autopilot servo (to make disconnection easy if > I ever need to). Is this acceptable or would any of you recommend another > way to hook the servo up? > > thanks, > > jason > > * > > * > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:17:14 AM PST US
    From: Neil Clayton <harvey4@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Van's gauges
    It's never 14+v. Since it's a pusher, I had assumed there's a voltage drop between the alternator and where I'm sampling the voltage behind the panel - about 8 feet away. Sounds like it's something I need to look into. The alternator is new. Neil At 10:09 PM 9/14/2009, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: ><nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> > > >>Voltage display is about 11v most of the time (I have a digital >>voltmeter hooked up to the bus showing a true 13.5 volts) > > Under what conditions? With the engine running and the > alternator supporting all the ship's electrical loads, > one would expect 14.2 to 14.6 volts on the bus. > > > Bob . . . > > --------------------------------------- > ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) > ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) > ( appearance of being right . . . ) > ( ) > ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) > --------------------------------------- > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 05:47:01 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wig-Wagging HDI lamps
    From: "N395V" <Bearcat@bearcataviation.com>
    > their warranty is reduced from 5000 hours > without the pulsing to 3000 hours with it. > So if I fly 300 hrs a year and use the lights with a wig wag 10% of the time and it really shortens the life of the lights by 2000 hours then.... I will have to replace the lights after 100 years as opposed to replacing them after 166 years. is that correct? -------- Milt 2003 F1 Rocket 2006 Radial Rocket Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263290#263290


    Message 4


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    Time: 05:53:31 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wig-Wagging HDI lamps
    From: "N395V" <Bearcat@bearcataviation.com>
    > > > their warranty is reduced from 5000 hours > without the pulsing to 3000 hours with it. So if I fly 200 hrs a year and use the lights with a wig wag and it really shortens the life of the lights by 2000 hours then.... I will have to replace the lights after 10 years as opposed to replacing them after 16.6 years. -------- Milt 2003 F1 Rocket 2006 Radial Rocket Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263291#263291


    Message 5


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    Time: 06:08:09 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Van's gauges
    At 07:04 AM 9/16/2009, you wrote: > >It's never 14+v. Since it's a pusher, I had assumed there's a >voltage drop between the alternator and where I'm sampling the >voltage behind the panel - about 8 feet away. >Sounds like it's something I need to look into. The alternator is new. Hmmmm . . . yeah, you might take some readings at both the alternator b-lead terminal and the battery . . . but 0.7v drop is too much. If your measurements confirm that much drop, then you need to upsize the b-lead wire. For example, a 6AWG wire is .00025 ohms per foot. 10 feet will drop only 0.1 volt at 40Amps. Check the ground path drop between crankcase and battery (-) too. Bob . . . --------------------------------------- ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ---------------------------------------


    Message 6


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    Time: 06:09:13 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity
    At 06:54 AM 9/16/2009, you wrote: >I have had rotten luck with the Radio Shack metalized D-sub >shells. They fall apart quite easily. > >But, why should that be surprising? > >Sam The ones with removable crimp pins? Bob . . . --------------------------------------- ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ---------------------------------------


    Message 7


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    Time: 06:47:41 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity
    From: Sam Hoskins <sam.hoskins@gmail.com>
    Yes, but it doesn't involve the connector or pins. Almost every RS plastic metalized hood has fallen apart. It cracks at the screw bosses. Sam On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 8:07 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote: > nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> > > At 06:54 AM 9/16/2009, you wrote: > >> I have had rotten luck with the Radio Shack metalized D-sub shells. They >> fall apart quite easily. >> >> But, why should that be surprising? >> >> Sam >> > > The ones with removable crimp pins? > > > Bob . . . > > --------------------------------------- > ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) > ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) > ( appearance of being right . . . ) > ( ) > ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) > --------------------------------------- > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 07:11:55 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity
    At 08:31 AM 9/16/2009, you wrote: >Yes, but it doesn't involve the connector or pins. Almost every RS >plastic metalized hood has fallen apart. It cracks at the screw bosses. > >Sam Aha! I guess I've never used those. Good data point. We get nearly all of our plastic hoods from Marlin P Jones . . . http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=2859+PL The metalization of plastic hoods serves no useful purpose. If there is compelling need to encase the connector-to-connector wire bundles in a metallic enclosure, then processes MUCH more complex than adding a metallic coating to the connector shells is indicated! Bob . . .


    Message 9


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    Time: 08:37:03 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: test
    From: Richard Girard <jindoguy@gmail.com>
    Received here. Rick On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 12:15 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote: > nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> > > test > > > Bob . . . > > --------------------------------------- > ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) > ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) > ( appearance of being right . . . ) > ( ) > ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) > --------------------------------------- > >


    Message 10


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    Time: 09:11:07 AM PST US
    From: Jason Beaver <jason@jasonbeaver.com>
    Subject: Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity
    On Sep 15, 2009, at 10:21 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > At 11:26 PM 9/15/2009, you wrote: >> Are there quality differences between different brands of d-sub >> connectors that I should worry about? I purchased a couple of d- >> sub 9 pin solder cup connectors made by Pan Pacific at a local >> electronics supplier: >> >> http://www.jasonbeaver.com/rv7/rv7pictures/Scaled/20090915/CIMG0524.JPG >> >> Would these be acceptable or would any of you recommend a certain >> brand and supplier? > > Solder cup and b-crimp connectors come in a huge > variety of qualities. This is why I like to use > the machined d-sub pins . . . ALWAYS good electrical > connection. They also pretty much fit the whole > range of removable pin d-subs. I've only seen the machined d-sub pins with crimp connectors (like on the B&C website). I'm fine using those, but several articles on your site show d-sub connectors with solder cups. I assume those can be found with machined pins, but B&C doesn't carry them. Do you know where I can get these? >> Also, what is the rated current capacity per pin? I'm considering >> using these to hook up a Dynon RV-7 autopilot servo (to make >> disconnection easy if I ever need to). Is this acceptable or would >> any of you recommend another way to hook the servo up? > > The d-sub with machined pins is my preferred connector. > 20AWG wire in any one pin is good for 7A or so. I like > to keep it below 5A for a few wires, and 3A average for > a connector full of wires. > > It's almost a certainty that the machined pin d-sub will > work just fine for the application you proposed. Thanks for your help! jason > Bob . . . > > --------------------------------------- > ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) > ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) > ( appearance of being right . . . ) > ( ) > ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) > --------------------------------------- > >


    Message 11


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    Time: 09:44:41 AM PST US
    From: <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
    Subject: Re: Wig-Wagging HDI lamps
    Sounds like you've pretty much pegged it Milt. Bob McC do not archive > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Wig-Wagging HDI lamps > From: Bearcat@bearcataviation.com > Date: Wed=2C 16 Sep 2009 05:45:33 -0700 > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > .com> > > > > their warranty is reduced from 5000 hours > > without the pulsing to 3000 hours with it. > > > > > So if I fly 300 hrs a year and use the lights with a wig wag 10% of the t ime and it really shortens the life of the lights by 2000 hours then.... > > I will have to replace the lights after 100 years as opposed to replacing them after 166 years. is that correct? > > -------- > Milt > 2003 F1 Rocket > 2006 Radial Rocket > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263290#263290 > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > >


    Message 12


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    Time: 10:57:24 AM PST US
    From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
    Subject: Corrosion Paste On Terminal Lugs...
    What's the common practice regarding that white goo for corrosion protection that B&C sells? I've been gooping up all sides of the posts and connector including the contact faces before I've been bolting these kind of connections together (like the starter lead and battery connections, etc). I was thinking that it was kind of like heatsink compound where you do just that. But is that really the right thing to do with this stuff? Or should it just be added to the outside of the finished connection? If yes, then what should I do with all of these connections I've already made? Thanks! Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com Engine Baffling...


    Message 13


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    Time: 11:43:12 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Corrosion Paste On Terminal Lugs...
    From: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
    I think the only place it makes much sense is on the terminals for a flooded cell lead acid battery.. Applying it to the post before tightening would provide the best protection and not interfere with conduction through the joint as long as the hardware is torqued sufficiently. I'd guess that the starved cell batteries don't really need the stuff. Matt- > <dralle@matronics.com> > > > What's the common practice regarding that white goo for corrosion > protection that B&C sells? I've been gooping up all sides of the posts > and connector including the contact faces before I've been bolting these > kind of connections together (like the starter lead and battery > connections, etc). I was thinking that it was kind of like heatsink > compound where you do just that. But is that really the right thing to do > with this stuff? Or should it just be added to the outside of the > finished connection? If yes, then what should I do with all of these > connections I've already made? > > Thanks! > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mattsrv8.com > Engine Baffling... > >


    Message 14


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    Time: 12:19:43 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: d-sub connectors and current carrying capacity
    >I've only seen the machined d-sub pins with crimp connectors (like >on the B&C website). I'm fine using those, but several articles on >your site show d-sub connectors with solder cups. I assume those >can be found with machined pins, but B&C doesn't carry them. Do you >know where I can get these? Sure, check the catalogs for any of dozens of electronics suppliers for high quality solder-cup connectors . . . However, know that there are NO D-sub connectors with solder cups that are machined pins. There are certainly some high-quality, solder-cup connectors. But the only reason I produced the article you saw was to accommodate folks who were installing a system that was supplied with solder-cup connectors and didn't want to buy new connectors. On occasion, I find it useful/practical to salvage and re-use a solder cup connector when my preferred choice isn't readily available. But I haven't purchased a new solder-cup connector in probably 15 years. The ability to pre-terminate wires with the best pins we know how to make . . . and correct wiring errors with a simple extraction tool is a VERY powerful personal incentive. Here's some good sources for solder-cup d-subs: http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/B092/0283.pdf http://www.mpja.com/products.asp?dept=86 http://tinyurl.com/pq293e Bob . . . --------------------------------------- ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ---------------------------------------


    Message 15


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    Time: 01:39:35 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Tachometer Generator Wiring
    From: "Craig Winkelmann" <capav8r@gmail.com>
    Bob: Thank you. As always, you keep it simple and do stuff that works. I have also determined that the two phases connected to the circuit I have was wired improperly. With two phases there was no ground reference until the tach gen (M-14P) saw a higher RPM. It was supposed to be wired to one phase and the other lead grounded (after review of the design), I have not looked at the waveform out of the M-14P tach gen, but from what you describe it is a simple and nice way to generate a signal. I had one guy swear that the tach gen was a "serious source of noise" in his airplane. At such a low frequency and at 20 V p-p, I don't see how. I'm going to the airplane Friday to do a bit of rewiring. Craig Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263383#263383


    Message 16


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    Time: 02:49:23 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Corrosion Paste On Terminal Lugs...
    At 12:54 PM 9/16/2009, you wrote: > > >What's the common practice regarding that white goo for corrosion >protection that B&C sells? If its the same material that was in my catalog at the time they purchased my inventory, that "goo" is intended as an anti-corrosion, anti-seize treatment for threaded fasteners exposed to harsh environment. > I've been gooping up all sides of the posts and connector > including the contact faces before I've been bolting these kind of > connections together (like the starter lead and battery > connections, etc). I was thinking that it was kind of like > heatsink compound where you do just that. But is that really the > right thing to do with this stuff? Or should it just be added to > the outside of the finished connection? If yes, then what should I > do with all of these connections I've already made? At no place I've ever worked for over 40 years did we "goop" any assembled electrical joint. Every joint was assembled from shiny, clean, dry components of proper material and appropriate plating. Where critical mate-up pressures were to be achieved, the work instructions called for use of a torque wrench in the final tightening. In other words, a connection that's properly crafted is so tightly joined that any goop would be extruded out of the interface . . . and can only protect the micro- thin edges of the interface. I have offered the notion that a di-electric grease MAY be useful when the OBAM aircraft builder needs to make up a high-current joint that is subject to harsh environment and/or located in a very hard-to-inspect location. 99.9% of all made up electrical joints require nor would they benefit from any 'treatments'. Getting the necessary force to achieve gas-tight interconnection is all that's necessary. Most of those issues are addressed for you when you use fast-on terminals, crimped or soldered joints, etc. Things held together with threaded fasteners have the highest risk of human-factors variables. Even those are no big deal if you simply take common care for craftsmanship. I don't know the qualities of the B&C anti-seize compound as a prophylactic against environmental degradation of bolted up electrical joints. It MAY be just fine. I DO know that plain vanilla silicone grease like Dow Corning DC4 or http://www.super-lube.com/silicone-dielectric-grease-ez-52.htm are specific to the preservation of integrity of electrical joints. I've got a tube of DC4 that's over 30 years old. I use it on my tail-light bulb sockets and I've not had one corrode into the socket in many years. But I don't find it useful to dope many bolted up electrical joints. Bob . . . --------------------------------------- ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ---------------------------------------


    Message 17


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    Time: 02:51:41 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Tachometer Generator Wiring
    At 03:37 PM 9/16/2009, you wrote: ><capav8r@gmail.com> > >Bob: > >Thank you. As always, you keep it simple and do stuff that >works. I have also determined that the two phases connected to the >circuit I have was wired improperly. With two phases there was no >ground reference until the tach gen (M-14P) saw a higher RPM. It >was supposed to be wired to one phase and the other lead grounded >(after review of the design), > >I have not looked at the waveform out of the M-14P tach gen, but >from what you describe it is a simple and nice way to generate a >signal. I had one guy swear that the tach gen was a "serious source >of noise" in his airplane. At such a low frequency and at 20 V p-p, >I don't see how. > >I'm going to the airplane Friday to do a bit of rewiring. Good show sir. Let us know what you find. Bob . . . --------------------------------------- ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ---------------------------------------




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