Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:36 AM - Re: Re: KX-125 Installation Manual? (Guillaume BONNAUD)
2. 04:31 AM - Re: Re: Not aviation related... Electronic though. :) (Richard Girard)
3. 05:28 AM - Re: Smart Start wire size (rvg8tor)
4. 06:33 AM - Re: Smart Start wire size (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 07:18 AM - Re: Re: Not aviation related... Electronic though. :) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 11:30 AM - Re: Not aviation related... Electronic though. :) (edleg)
7. 11:50 AM - Re: Bus Voltage (Speedy11@aol.com)
8. 11:52 AM - Re: Re: Not aviation related... Electronic though. :) (Charlie England)
9. 11:52 AM - strobe lights (Deems Herring)
10. 03:07 PM - Alternator mod article (Sam Hoskins)
11. 04:57 PM - Alkaline vs. Lithium (S. Ramirez)
12. 05:52 PM - Re: Z12 and IR Main Alt (Richard Sipp)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: KX-125 Installation Manual? |
Hi Bob
Please, find attached the manual installation for KX125 (pdf )
Your site is very helpful! Thank you very much!
Guillaume
2009/9/19 Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
> nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> At 01:44 PM 9/18/2009, you wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi again, just received the documentation...
>>
>> Thank you all for your help!
>>
>
> What format? If it's a scanned .pdf file, I'd
> like to have a copy to add to the website library.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ---------------------------------------
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ---------------------------------------
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Not aviation related... Electronic though. |
:)
Jeff, 4 D cells is 4.8 volts long term, you'll need twice that many to get
9.6. Why not go to one of the battery suppliers and see if there is a larger
capacity unit that fits your camera and gives the use time you want. $time$
thing and no worries about charging, connecting, weight, etc.
Rick Girard
On Sat, Sep 19, 2009 at 1:08 AM, Jeffery J. Morgan <
jmorgan@compnetconcepts.com> wrote:
> jmorgan@compnetconcepts.com>
>
> My apologies to the list. I didn't send that correctly...
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeffery J. Morgan
> Sent: Friday, September 18, 2009 11:53 PM
> To: 'aeroelectric-list@matronics.com'
> Subject: Not aviation related... Electronic though. :)
>
> Bob,
>
> I am looking for some direction on how to build a battery pack that will
> help power my video camera longer. I am certain that I can find what I
> need but looking for some direction or guidance to get it right.
>
> I have a camcorder that uses a power pack that converts from wall outlet
> to a 9.6 volt 0.8a output. The symbol has a solid line on top and three
> dots on the bottom which I assume to me DC voltage.
>
> Currently the battery in the camera will last about 60-75 minutes and I
> would like to try to double that capacity. I was thinking that I should
> be able to pull together a battery holder of 4 D cell batteries and
> reduce the voltage and amperage to get what I would need. I am not
> correct in that thinking?
>
> Currently the camera has a lithium Ion battery that holds that charge.
>
> I appreciate any direction you can give.
>
> Thanks
> Jeff
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Smart Start wire size |
Bob,
Thanks for the explanation, I was going to email you over the weekend so you would
have my message in you inbox on Monday, lucky for me you watch this forum.
I was confused and could not figure out why the small wire would be OK as I stated
AEC Z-diagrams all show 20 AWG with 7 amp protection. The Van's diagram
calls out 18 AWG wire. I suppose they like the larger gage wire for its durability.
--------
Mike "Nemo" Elliott
RV-8A QB (Fuselage)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263804#263804
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Smart Start wire size |
At 07:32 PM 9/18/2009, you wrote:
>
>I bought the Smart Start module from TCW and was just getting around
>to looking at the wire diagram and harness. All of the Aeroelectric
>diagrams show a 7 amp protected 20 AWG wire going to the start
>switch then on to the post on the start relay.
>
>The Smart Start module gets power from the main buss via 2 amp
>breaker or fuse and the wires in the entire harness are only 22 AWG.
>(http://tcwtech.com/Smartstart.htm) Wire diagram is at the link.
>
>So two wires connect to the start switch and go into the module and
>one wire goes to the small terminal on the start relay. Is the 22
>AWG wire and 2 amp breaker too small. I can't see what determines
>wire size for this application. Since only 2 amps can flow into
>the module then the 22 AWG wire to the start relay is protected but
>what complication might there be with this setup. I guess I need to
>go back and read "the book" for the ump-teenth time! Thanks for any help.
Wire per the manufacturer's instructions . . . but
write to them and ask what to do about it if
the starter contactor draws 5A. Most intermittent
duty contactors require about that much. Their
instructions seem to allude to a potential for damage
to their product if the thing is used to control
a modern, engagement/contactor solenoid like
B&C, Skytec or similar automotive adaptations.
The question to ask them is whether or not they
can handle a 5A contactor and a system powered via
7A breaker/fuse through 20 AWG wire on pins 7 and 9.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Not aviation related... Electronic though. |
:)
Jeff,
Rick makes a good suggestion. But assuming that a more robust battery
is not available, an external battery pack is an option. An array of
4 ni-cad cells comes across the starting line at about 1.25 volts per
cell so an array of 8 would get you 10 volts. Alkaline cells start out
a bit hotter at 1.5 volts per cell so you only need 7 cells to get 10.5
volts as a starting point.
What the energy rating of your existing battery pak?
The camera will be pretty tolerant of input voltage fed through it's
external power jack. Unless the 'wall wart' power supply is internally
REGULATED, then the 9.6v value is a nominal number and the camera will
probably perform over a range of 8 to 12 volts or something like that.
I used to run external 4-paks of d-alkalines on my Vivitar 283 flash guns.
This gave me enough energy to do a 4-hour shoot without concerns
for battery replacement. Further, the low impedance of the d-cells gave very
fast recycle time on the flash gun, not unlike the recycle time I got
with freshly charged ni-cads. The batty box hung off my belt and plugged
into the flash-gun's external power jack through a coil-cord.
For your application, you might consider an 8-pak of C-nicads like
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SY123T-ND
These offer 3,000 mAh of capacity. If you want more, there are some
D-cells (harder to find) that will go up to 4,000 or more.
These have solder tabs and will assemble into a pack that is MUCH
more reliably connected than the spring-loaded battery boxes for
individual cells. You could bring a lead-wire out at the center-tap.
To charge this pack, a simple 120 vac line cord that feeds a series
connection of 1N4007 diode and 7-15W light bulb will emulate a 40-100 mA
constant current charter that takes awhile to recharge the cells but
won't seriously over-charge them.
Is this a portable application or running in a vehicle? You could
craft a 9.6 v REGULATED adapter to run the camera from a vehicle's
electrical system.
Alternatively, you can go with a 7-pak of D-alkaline cells and
throw them away when used up. This will offer MORE capacity than
a rechargeable pak of the same size, somewhat less expensive to
build. But after you've gone thorough 10-15 sets of alkaline cells,
you've expended the cash for one set of ni-cads. Of course, you don't have
the hassles of waiting for a ni-cad pack to recharge either. Your
ultimate choice needs to fit design goals.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Not aviation related... Electronic though. :) |
Instead of building, how about checking for bigger capacity batteries. I have used
larger capacity batteries from eaglecool dot com for my JVC digital video
recorders. They have worked well and the company has stood behind their warranties
ok.
On the other hand, I have built external battery packs for my camera flash equipment
(Vivitar and Nikon) by using sealed gel cell off-the-shelf 6v batteries
(4+ amphour)with custom built/modified (by me) power cables. But when you get
into voltages like 7.2 or 9.6, etc. you could build external packs using "D" 1.2v
rechargeable batteries in series as long as you can figure out a way to build/buy
a power cable.
-Ed-
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263838#263838
Message 7
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Joe,
Thanks for your comment.
I have taken notice of the voltage during light and heaviest loads and it
remains steady at 13.5. The light loading was about 3 Amps and heavy was
about 32A (everything on).
So, I'll take readings as Bob suggested and see what I find.
Stan
Stan,
A good test is to compare the bus voltage with light loads to the bus
voltage with heavy loads. If there is a big difference, then there is a
lot of resistance in the circuit, possibly from too small wire or from
bad connections.
Joe
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Not aviation related... Electronic though. |
:)
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> Jeff,
>
> Rick makes a good suggestion. But assuming that a more robust battery
> is not available, an external battery pack is an option. An array of
> 4 ni-cad cells comes across the starting line at about 1.25 volts per
> cell so an array of 8 would get you 10 volts. Alkaline cells start out
> a bit hotter at 1.5 volts per cell so you only need 7 cells to get 10.5
> volts as a starting point.
>
> What the energy rating of your existing battery pak?
>
> The camera will be pretty tolerant of input voltage fed through it's
> external power jack. Unless the 'wall wart' power supply is internally
> REGULATED, then the 9.6v value is a nominal number and the camera will
> probably perform over a range of 8 to 12 volts or something like that.
>
> I used to run external 4-paks of d-alkalines on my Vivitar 283 flash
> guns.
> This gave me enough energy to do a 4-hour shoot without concerns
> for battery replacement. Further, the low impedance of the d-cells
> gave very
> fast recycle time on the flash gun, not unlike the recycle time I got
> with freshly charged ni-cads. The batty box hung off my belt and plugged
> into the flash-gun's external power jack through a coil-cord.
>
> For your application, you might consider an 8-pak of C-nicads like
>
> http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SY123T-ND
>
>
> These offer 3,000 mAh of capacity. If you want more, there are some
> D-cells (harder to find) that will go up to 4,000 or more.
>
> These have solder tabs and will assemble into a pack that is MUCH
> more reliably connected than the spring-loaded battery boxes for
> individual cells. You could bring a lead-wire out at the center-tap.
> To charge this pack, a simple 120 vac line cord that feeds a series
> connection of 1N4007 diode and 7-15W light bulb will emulate a 40-100 mA
> constant current charter that takes awhile to recharge the cells but
> won't seriously over-charge them.
>
> Is this a portable application or running in a vehicle? You could
> craft a 9.6 v REGULATED adapter to run the camera from a vehicle's
> electrical system.
>
> Alternatively, you can go with a 7-pak of D-alkaline cells and
> throw them away when used up. This will offer MORE capacity than
> a rechargeable pak of the same size, somewhat less expensive to
> build. But after you've gone thorough 10-15 sets of alkaline cells,
> you've expended the cash for one set of ni-cads. Of course, you don't
> have
> the hassles of waiting for a ni-cad pack to recharge either. Your
> ultimate choice needs to fit design goals.
>
>
> Bob . . .
I like finding similar products from higher volume (ie: lower cost) markets.
http://www.batteryjunction.com/9-6-pk.html
Used something similar in an old handheld radio to replace dead nicads &
had to pack most of the case with cardboard/foam to stabilize the
smaller batteries. Also had about twice the capacity.
Charlie
Charlie
Message 9
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For anyone interested in this sort of thing=2C here is some information on
test standards.
http://physics.nist.gov/Divisions/Div844/facilities/photo/Flash/flash.html
Deems Herring
=0A
_________________________________________________________________=0A
Lauren found her dream laptop. Find the PC that=92s right for you.=0A
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/choosepc/?ocid=ftp_val_wl_290
Message 10
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| Subject: | Alternator mod article |
Hi - I just wanted to make sure you saw the DIY alternator article, from one
of the Quickie guys - Lynn French. I don't know if Lynn is on this, or not.
http://www.eaa.org/experimenter/articles/2009-09_howto_alternator.asp
Sam
Message 11
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| Subject: | Alkaline vs. Lithium |
I was at my hangar taking alkaline batteries out of all of my battery
powered tools. I had one Ray-O-Vac AA alkaline battery leaking, and I
cleaned up the mess with baking soda. Most of the batteries were installed
between 2002 and 2006 except for the digital torque wrench and digital
airplane scale. Those batteries were relatively new.
Some of these tools cost a lot of money, and I don't want to damage them.
Therefore, I would like to get an opinion on whether I should migrate to
lithium AA and 9V batteries. Is lithium technology safer than alkaline
technology? I was at Home Depot today and saw two Duracell 9V lithium
batteries in a pack for $7. That's $3.50 per battery, which brings it very
close to the price of an alkaline battery. Even if it were X2 or X3,
lithium batteries have a greater shelf life and higher energy density, so
maybe they are cost effective at those greater prices. Has Bob or anyone
else done a cost analysis on these two technologies to see how lithium
stands against alkaline? I'd like to migrate to lithium just for its safety
factor - if it doesn't leak or catch on fire in normal usage, but cost
effectiveness would be a bonus.
Simon Ramirez
Copyright 2009
Message 12
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| Subject: | Z12 and IR Main Alt |
My system on an RV-10 is very close to what you describe; a Plane Power
60 amp main IR alternator and a B&C 20 amp standby with B&C external
linear regulator. System is wired very close to Z-12 and is working
fine.
Dick Sipp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rvg8tor
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2009 9:04 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Z12 and IR Main Alt
Without getting into the debate of IR vs Ext regulation, can a IR
alternator be used in the Z12 system? Will the EXT regulator for the
SD20 play nice with the IR of the main Alt? I have a buddy who has
flown his RV8 for years, he is a EE major and loves the IR alternators.
I respect his opinion and for cost sake I want to use the IR alternator,
but I am designing my system with the Z12 diagram. My concern is will
the SD20 regulator function properly with this, my guess is it will
since it is just looking at the buss voltage to tell itself to start
putting out power. Thanks for any help.
--------
Mike "Nemo" Elliott
RV-8A QB (Fuselage)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263757#263757
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