Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:46 AM - Re: How is this battery lug crimp (Harley)
2. 07:18 AM - Subject: high temp. tie wraps. (Rob Mokry)
3. 08:18 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 31 Msgs - 10/05/09 (Scott Klemptner)
4. 08:45 AM - Re: Subject: high temp. tie wraps. (bob noffs)
5. 07:32 PM - Re: Subject: high temp. tie wraps. (Bob McCallum)
6. 09:03 PM - Re: Wig-Wagging HDI lamps (XeVision)
7. 09:43 PM - Re: How is this battery lug crimp (rvg8tor)
8. 10:12 PM - Re: Re: Wig-Wagging HDI lamps (Ralph Finch)
9. 10:41 PM - Re: Re: How is this battery lug crimp (Richard Girard)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: How is this battery lug crimp |
Yep...the link to the picture came through fine...
Hmmm...interesting application ..using a cable thimble swager for a
crimper...but being able to keep it from pulling off is only one of the
goals of crimping.
I wonder how gas tight it will be with those "ears" on the sides. A
regular crimper compresses the lug all the way around and doesn't leave
any areas where the crimp changes direction, like the ears do where they
meet the wire. I'm wondering if this might be a location where air,
water, air borne chemicals, etc. can get in and start corrosion,
increasing the resistance...
Any visible gaps where the ears meet the wire? And if not, is it tight
enough there to prevent infiltration of gases or liquids?
Using the correct tool for the job is always a better idea! You can
always borrow a crimper if you don't have one.
Harley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
rvg8tor wrote:
>
> I am making my fat wire connections with #4 welding cable. I found these lugs
at the West Marine store. I used a swagging tool to make the crimp. It seems
plenty strong. This was a test piece and was only about 6 in long. I put
the lug in the vice and pulled on the cable and I pulled the insulation off.
I then put the wire in the vice and pulled the lug for all I was worth and it
held. Any reason this type of crimp would not work.
>
> These lugs seem to be better sized for the #4 welding cable. My welding supply
guy does have a tool that you put the wire and lug into and you whack it with
a hammer to make the crimp. The only lug the welding guy carries are copper
colored and I though those would be too soft and corrode too much. Hopefully
the picture is loaded correctly. It shows the tool as well as the crimp, or
swag I guess in this case.
>
> --------
> Mike "Nemo" Elliott
> RV-8A QB (Fuselage)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266890#266890
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/small_swag_631.jpg
>
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | high temp. tie wraps. |
What ever happened to the whitish tiewraps with the metal insert "tooth"?
Seems these were available surplus......
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 31 Msgs - 10/05/09 |
Time: 04:14:21 PM PST US=0AFrom: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@ae
roelectric.com>=0ASubject: Re: AeroElectric-List: high temp. tie wraps.=0A
=0A=0AAt 04:15 PM 10/5/2009, you wrote:=0A>I understand that there are high
temperature =0A>tolerant tie wraps that can be used under the =0A>cowling.
- Can some one tell me where to get these things?=0A=0A- They are Tefze
l tie wraps. About $2 each.=0A=0A- Consider Dacron string ties. Works goo
d, lasts=0A- a long time and is really cheap.=0A=0A=0A------
- Bob . . .=0A=0A=0A=0AI second the string ties!=0AI rewired a-North Am
erican T-6 a while ago and cussed the 50+ year old string ties while gettin
g the original wires out, even the string ties firewall forward! The string
ties seem to be completely immune to heat, oil, fuel and all the rest of t
he environmental factors that kill wire ties.=0A=0AI rarely use tie wraps a
nymore...have even learned to use string ties through inspection holes usin
g forceps-=0A-Scott A Klemptner=0Abmwr606 on Yahoo IM=0A=0AIgnore those
sparks, I meant to do that!=0A=0A=0A
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: high temp. tie wraps. |
what about wire lacing? it is almost free and only a little time consuming.
bob noffs
On Wed, Oct 7, 2009 at 8:19 AM, Rob Mokry <robmokry@covad.net> wrote:
>
>
> What ever happened to the whitish tiewraps with the metal insert "tooth"?
> Seems these were available surplus......
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | high temp. tie wraps. |
Rob;
Still available.
I believe you're referring to the T&B brand Ty-RapT. Thomas and Betts was
the originator of the tie wrap in 1958 and their original design featured
this metal locking tang, or tooth. See
http://www.tnb.com/ps/pubint/index.cgi?a=cbrands
Bob McC
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-
> list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Mokry
> Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 9:19 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Subject: AeroElectric-List: high temp. tie wraps.
>
>
>
>
> What ever happened to the whitish tiewraps with the metal insert "tooth"?
> Seems these were available surplus......
>
>
> _-
> =================================================
> =========
> _-
> =================================================
> =========
> _-
> =================================================
> =========
> _-
> =================================================
> =========
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Wig-Wagging HDI lamps |
[quote="Bob McC"]Interesting Dan, that seems to support Eric, and yet LoPresti
says their
5000 hour warranty is not affected. Go figure. Each to his own, I guess, and
so the differing opinions each survive. Eric's arguments make sense, yet two
manufacturers actually producing the product can't agree with each other.
Bob McC
> --
The new pulsing Lopresti PowerPulse is the same unit made by http://seatoneng.com/ or http://www.maxpulsemaxdim.com/comparisons.htm is a pretty cool compact form factor, I have to admit, I would use it for Incandescent or Halogen lamps. It is a GREAT product.
However, its built in warm up is NOT suitable for HID IF you are concerned about
ballast and bulb life. Its bulb warm up is not sufficient for HID because the
warm up time is much too short (~5 seconds) and most of the pulsing speeds are
too slow to be OK for HID bulbs.
XeVision was the first (4+ years ago) to offer Pulsing specifically designed for
the requirements of HID, after much discussion with the HID bulb manufacturers
about bulb operating requirements for long life (ARC plasma behavior and electrodes).
We make our own ballasts but these quality HID bulbs are ONLY made
by Philips or Osram (Sylvania).
The unit Lopresti is offering has only a 5 second warm up, OK for incandescent
or LED (not needed), but NOT good for HID.
HID requires the bulb arc plasma reach steady state or very close to it before
pulsing should start if one cares about HID system life. Anything less than 20
seconds of continuous warm up time is too short and will significantly affect
HID bulb life. Slow pulsing is also harmful, 60 ppm (1 Hz) per channel (120 ppm
both channels "wig-wag") is the approximate optimal speed considering both
bulb life and visual effectiveness for HID. Short warm up and / or slow pulsing
allows the plasma to cool off too much in pulsing operation, requiring very
much higher starting voltages to restrike the ARC, thus accelerating erosion of
the electrodes.
Once the HID bulb is warmed up, 20-30 seconds (sufficient) or more, if pulsing
is fast enough, the on pulse is long enough and the off period short enough the
plasma can stay hot enough to again sustain a low voltage arc (~85 VAC) as it
does in steady state without resorting to a high voltage restrike 25+ KV for
each pulse.
The Lopresti unit offers 44 ppm (22 ppm each channel) and 88 ppm (44 ppm each channel),
these are for both channels combined. Only the 120 ppm their fastest
rate (60 ppm each channel) is suitable for HID.
Note: XeVision has a Patent Pending regarding warm-up technology for HID (filed
over 4 years ago). The Patent office has granted our Patent about 1 month ago
and the final paperwork has been submitted for issuance from the US Patent office.
The original XePulse I and the about to be released XePulse II are covered
by this Patent. The XePulse II is about 20% of the size of the original unit
and the new unit includes additional patentable enhancements to insure maximum
HID system life while in pulsing operation.
Philips and Osram (the only quality D1S) bulb makers in the world. both claim a
Tc of either 2500 or 3000 hours. This bulb statistic means that only 63% of the
bulbs will still function (on/off) after that amount of run time in the lab.
Lopresti has used and still uses these 2 brands of D1S HID bulbs and yet still
claims a 5000 hour warranty ????
Without a proper arc chamber warm up Philips and Osram claim the bulb is only good
for about 20,000 starts. That is only 6 hours of continuous pulsing if it
is not in the plasma (steady state) instead of excited Xenon only as during the
initial starting. Depending on how someone operates their pulsing system, pulsing
while "cold" the warmup to steady state can be extended to over 5 minutes
which wears the electrodes at an accelerated rate. Once the arc gap gets large
enough and 105-110 VAC (max steady state bulb voltage) cannot sustain the arc
the bulbs life has ended. When a bulb is new it takes about 85 VAC and 0.4
amp (35 watt) (0.6 amp for 50 watts) to sustain the arc once warmed up. When the
bulb is cold it takes more power to keep the arc going. During this early phase
of bulb operation it can take 2X to 3X the power to the bulb to keep it "lit".
This extended overpowering to 70-90 watts is hard on the bulb this is the
bulb operation phase to be avoided for HID pulsing. Hot restriking after less
than a second of cool down (more than 30 seconds) it takes as much as 25,000
Volts to restart.
Every other company (6) which offers a pulsing system indicates 30 seconds to 1
minute steady on before pulsing should start (flip the switch) for HID.
The HID bulb manufacturers all agree that a close to steady state power to the
arc is mandatory for good bulb life and the higher the pulsing frequency the better
(that works well visibly). Hot restarting takes much more power if the bulb
is allowed to cool for more than 1/2 second. If pulsing only occurs while
the plasma state is well established (after 20-30 secs) then the power required
to re establish the arc is almost the same as to keep it "lit". Its all about
the impedance within the arc and under what conditions is it easiest on the
bulb and ballast to re establish the arc. Its all about adequately warming the
arc chamber up and keeping the off time between pulses short and the on time
of the pulses long.
I guess its their engineers (facts) "opinions" (Philips and Osram) vs Lopresti
sales team opinions. I think I'll stick with them, after all they are the bulb
experts.
The power being put into the bulb/ballast system can easily be monitored with an
amp probe on the cable to the bulb on an oscilloscope to see how the power varies
between operating the bulb these 2 different ways, "cold /cool" pulsing
or "hot" (warmed up) "steady state" pulsing.
One of Lopresti's people told me that their HID warm up was "instantaneous" Those
guys are miracle workers and can defy the laws of Physics.
--------
LED still has a long way to go to compete with HID as a landing light. This is
true in terms of total lumens and reach (distance).
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267064#267064
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: How is this battery lug crimp |
Harley,
Thanks I kind of knew it would not work well, I got impatient knowing I would have
to wait for the proper lugs int he mail and thought these might work with
the tool I had, definitely not the right tool for the job. Oh well I guess I
will try the solder technique. I should have the parts in a couple days.
--------
Mike "Nemo" Elliott
RV-8A QB (Fuselage)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267065#267065
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Wig-Wagging HDI lamps |
>LED still has a long way to go to compete with HID as a landing light.
>This is true in terms of total lumens and reach (distance).
Yes, but I wonder, how do the LEDs do as a recognition light, compared to a
landing light?
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: How is this battery lug crimp |
Why don't you just solder your crimp and have the best of both worlds? Gas
tight and mechanically strong. Just a thought.
Rick Girard
On Wed, Oct 7, 2009 at 11:39 PM, rvg8tor <rvg8tor@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Harley,
>
> Thanks I kind of knew it would not work well, I got impatient knowing I
> would have to wait for the proper lugs int he mail and thought these might
> work with the tool I had, definitely not the right tool for the job. Oh
> well I guess I will try the solder technique. I should have the parts in a
> couple days.
>
> --------
> Mike "Nemo" Elliott
> RV-8A QB (Fuselage)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267065#267065
>
>
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