Today's Message Index:
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1. 07:20 AM - Control Stick Switches =?ISO-8859-1?Q?=93?= Best Practice? (gordonrsmith921@yahoo.com)
2. 07:21 AM - typo? (gordonrsmith921@yahoo.com)
3. 09:19 AM - Re: typo? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 09:26 AM - Re: Control Stick Switches =?iso-8859-1?Q?=93?= Best Practice? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 03:20 PM - B & C Alternator cooling (Mick Muller)
6. 05:55 PM - Re: B & C Alternator cooling (J. Mcculley)
7. 06:18 PM - AEC Modules (gordonrsmith921@yahoo.com)
8. 07:00 PM - Re: AEC Modules (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 08:21 PM - Re: B & C Alternator cooling (peter laurence)
Message 1
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Subject: | Control Stick Switches =?ISO-8859-1?Q?=93?= Best Practice? |
Given: RV A/C with airframe tied directly to battery ground (rear Batteries).
I am planning the following switch functions on the control stick: Trim (4 way),
Com PTT, Autopilot Control, and perhaps Com channel flip-flop and other functions.
All of these functions require a momentary pull to low (ground) to activate/toggle
a function. My original planning was to employ a single ground conductor
up the stick to the switches. This ground conductor would be tied, locally, to
A/C ground in the area of the stick.
After reviewing various Z figures it appears that a better practice would be to
bring the stick ground conductor to the Panel G3 (inside firewall) or the Avx
G5 (back side of panel). Which is preferred?
Is it proper to have a single ground conductor for all of the stick switch functions?
Should the PTT be given special consideration and a separate ground path
with perhaps both (to-from) paths shielded.
PS Engineering schematics show PTT wiring only from the mic jack (PTT from the
tip and low-ground from the barrel). Can the remote stick PTT be wired directly
from the Intercom, connecting to the respective PTT mic pin and mic low connection
at the Intercom? Should these conductors be shielded in this case?
Perhaps the bottom line might be:
1. 1 ground conductor for trim relay decks going to local ground.
2. 1 ground conductor for PTT going to Intercom or mic jack.
3. 1 ground conductor for the other toggle functions to Avx G5.
Overkill?
Gordon Smith
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267450#267450
Message 2
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Bob:
Assuming that you wish for us listers to query any possible typos in your documents
or figures: In Z15k2 grounding for Seaplane, is the diode between the Main
Bus and Endurance Bus shown in a reversed orientation?
Gordon Smith
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267451#267451
Message 3
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At 09:20 AM 10/11/2009, you wrote:
>"gordonrsmith921@yahoo.com" <gordonrsmith921@yahoo.com>
>
>Bob:
>Assuming that you wish for us listers to
>query any possible typos in your documents
>or figures: In Z15k2 grounding for
>Seaplane, is the diode between the Main Bus
>and Endurance Bus shown in a reversed orientation?
>Gordon Smith
No need to assume anything my friend. It's an earnest
and respectful request that folks help us evolve data
offered on aeroelectric.com into the best we know how
to do.
Yes, you're correct, the diode is reversed in that drawing.
I'll fix it ASAP. Thanks!
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Control Stick Switches =?iso-8859-1?Q?=93?= Best |
Practice?
At 09:18 AM 10/11/2009, you wrote:
<gordonrsmith921@yahoo.com>
Given: RV A/C with airframe tied directly to battery ground (rear Batteries).
I am planning the following switch functions on the control stick:
Trim (4 way), Com PTT, Autopilot Control, and perhaps Com channel
flip-flop and other functions.
All of these functions require a momentary pull to low (ground) to
activate/toggle a function. My original planning was to employ a
single ground conductor up the stick to the switches. This ground
conductor would be tied, locally, to A/C ground in the area of the stick.
After reviewing various Z figures it appears that a better practice
would be to bring the stick ground conductor to the Panel G3 (inside
firewall) or the Avx G5 (back side of panel). Which is preferred?
There's no "golden" recipe for success here. You
need to establish design goals (make a control stick
with lots of buttons control lots of things by pulling
a control line to ground).
Then do a failure mode effects analysis for the ways
that the control system might fail.
Is it proper to have a single ground conductor for all of the stick
switch functions? Should the PTT be given special consideration and
a separate ground path with perhaps both (to-from) paths shielded.
It's not a mater of "proper", it's a matter of criticality
for any single and then a combination of items in
the control system to be lost. If that single ground
breaks, what is the likely outcome of your flight?
Do you need to craft a specific plan-b for any of
those failures?
PS Engineering schematics show PTT wiring only from the mic jack (PTT
from the tip and low-ground from the barrel). Can the remote stick
PTT be wired directly from the Intercom, connecting to the respective
PTT mic pin and mic low connection at the Intercom? Should these
conductors be shielded in this case?
A twisted pair would be nice but shielding is
not necessary or beneficial.
Perhaps the bottom line might be:
1. 1 ground conductor for trim relay decks going to local ground.
2. 1 ground conductor for PTT going to Intercom or mic jack.
3. 1 ground conductor for the other toggle functions to Avx G5.
Overkill?
Can't answer that for you. If any failure deprived
you of any one or all of those features, how would
you deal with it? If subsequent arrival with the earth
is comfortable and sweat-free, then a single ground
would be fine. If not, then modify your planning
accordingly.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
Message 5
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Subject: | B & C Alternator cooling |
Howdy All,
I recently bought a B & C alternator for my RV and am installing it to
replace the ole internally regulated automotive one. The old Auto type
alternator
required some fancy cooling work to bring blast air into the face of the
unit. Of course no part of the existing set up will work with the B & C
unit.
To anyone who has fitted on or knows anything about them, do you also have
to cool the B & CF unit??
I was hoping that with its internal cooling fan going the right way, it
would not
need fancy cooling shrouds etc. I posted a question to B & C but have had no
response from them as yet.
Mick
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: B & C Alternator cooling |
Which B&C unit are you installing----the SD-8 or SD-20? The SD-8 is
driven off the vacuum pump pad at the top right rear of Lycomings
accessory case and I think the SD-20 is also mounted there. They are
both PM units with external regulators provided. The SD-8 is happy
without any external cooling air provision. Don't "think" that is any
different for the SD-20.
Jim McCulley
===================================================================================
Mick Muller wrote:
> <mmul6471@bigpond.net.au>
>
> Howdy All,
> I recently bought a B & C alternator for my RV and am installing it to
> replace the ole internally regulated automotive one. The old Auto type
> alternator
> required some fancy cooling work to bring blast air into the face of the
> unit. Of course no part of the existing set up will work with the B & C
> unit.
> To anyone who has fitted on or knows anything about them, do you also
> have to cool the B & CF unit??
> I was hoping that with its internal cooling fan going the right way, it
> would not
> need fancy cooling shrouds etc. I posted a question to B & C but have
> had no response from them as yet.
> Mick
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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lectric Bob:
When you get to the point of building and selling your AEC 9024 module, will you
also be building and selling your AEC 9011 module?
Gordon Smith
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267523#267523
Message 8
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At 08:17 PM 10/11/2009, you wrote:
>"gordonrsmith921@yahoo.com" <gordonrsmith921@yahoo.com>
>
>lectric Bob:
>When you get to the point of building and
>selling your AEC 9024 module, will you also be
>building and selling your AEC 9011 module?
yes, all the "under development" products will hit the
catalog within a period of about 4-6 weeks. I'm still
semi-paralyzed in with the electronics shop facilities.
Our move to Medicine Lodge has been fraught with
potholes!
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: B & C Alternator cooling |
Mick,
Running one on a Velocity for 4 plus years sans cooling fan. No problems.
Peter
On Sun, Oct 11, 2009 at 6:16 PM, Mick Muller <mmul6471@bigpond.net.au>wrote:
> mmul6471@bigpond.net.au>
>
> Howdy All,
> I recently bought a B & C alternator for my RV and am installing it to
> replace the ole internally regulated automotive one. The old Auto type
> alternator
> required some fancy cooling work to bring blast air into the face of the
> unit. Of course no part of the existing set up will work with the B & C
> unit.
> To anyone who has fitted on or knows anything about them, do you also have
> to cool the B & CF unit??
> I was hoping that with its internal cooling fan going the right way, it
> would not
> need fancy cooling shrouds etc. I posted a question to B & C but have had
> no response from them as yet.
> Mick
>
>
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