Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:05 AM - Re: What is the type of this pin? (Overtorque)
2. 05:40 AM - Alternator quit working, Coupling ()
3. 06:05 AM - Re: Flakey UPS AT GPS/COM (rampil)
4. 11:08 AM - What makes diode get warm (rvg8tor)
5. 11:24 AM - Bending male tabs on diode (rvg8tor)
6. 12:06 PM - Re: What makes diode get warm (Charlie England)
7. 01:18 PM - Re: What makes diode get warm (plaurence)
8. 01:26 PM - Re: What makes diode get warm (Matt Prather)
9. 01:34 PM - Re: Transponder antenna location (John B Szantho)
10. 03:46 PM - Re: Re: Transponder antenna location (thomas sargent)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: What is the type of this pin? |
Hi everybody,
I found the name of my contact: Amphenol AIRLB....
Fortunatly I met a guy familiar with this type of contact.
Thank you very much for all input
Overtorque
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269622#269622
Message 2
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| Subject: | Alternator quit working, Coupling |
10/27/2009
Hello Travis, You wrote:
1) "My alternator coupling failed...AGAIN!"
Bummer -- I feel a bit guilty because I steered you in the direction of
Drake back in November 2006. The history of your alternator couplings is not
clear to me:
a) Your original TCM factory provided coupling that came with your engine
failed after how many hours?
b) You sent the original failed coupling off to Drake and they refurbished
it. How many hours did you get on this refurbished coupling before it
failed?
2) "I emailed Drake Air this morning and was inquiring as to why their part
failed...prematurely...in
my opinion!"
In addition to this query to Drake (from whom you may not get a completely
unbiased answer) I would call TCM Technical Services (1-888-826-5465) and
ask some questions:
a) What is the expected service hours life of their elastomeric coupling?
b) What factors could shorten that service life?
c) Do they have any info from the field on the durability of Drake's
coupling versus TCM's coupling?
d) Who makes the TCM coupling?
You can see where this is heading. It may turn out that a $1,600 TCM
coupling is a more cost effective item than a $450 Drake refurbished
coupling. The durability of the Drake refurbished coupling would be
dependent upon: A) The quality of the elastomeric material used, and B) The
quality of the workmanship in casting / assembling the coupling.
Can you recall how the original TCM coupling failed? Was it a shearing of
the elastomeric or was it a separation of the elastomeric from the metal
parts?
Similarly, how did the Drake refurbished coupling fail? Was it a shearing of
the elastomeric or was it a separation of the elastomeic from the metal
parts?
Regardless of which coupling source you decide to use you may want to apply
the torque test to it before you install it. The torque test is described in
the TCM SB95-3B.
Good luck and please keep us informed.
'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
understand knowledge."
PS: I am flying a KIS TR-1 with a TCM IO-240 B9B engine with a Prince P tip
prop. 263 hours tach time with the engine above 1,500 RPM. With my new wheel
pants I can get 140 knots indicated airspeed.
==========================================================
Time: 01:18:14 PM PST US
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Continental IO-240: Alternator quit working,
Coupling
Failed
From: "FlyboyTR" <flyboytr@bellsouth.net>
The past 254 hours have been great...until yesterday. My alternator
coupling failed...AGAIN!
I had purchased a rebuilt unit from Drake Air (as noted above
in this thread). $450 versus $1,600 from TCM for a new one.
Is there any reason this part should fail so soon? Oil, hours, temps,
alternator
load, how the load is applied, etc?
I emailed Drake Air this morning and was inquiring as to why their part
failed...prematurely...in
my opinion!
I have to pull my engine to remove the alternator. ...insult to injury! :?
Again...I welcome input from the forum!
Travis :)
--------
Travis Rayner
Mobile, AL
Skystar Vixen, N-789DF
Continental IO-240, Prince P-Tip Prop
ADI-II Autopilot
AnyWhereMap Navigation with weather
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269543#269543
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| Subject: | Re: Flakey UPS AT GPS/COM |
Is that ground signal the only intermittent you have?
You might rework that one pin to wire joint on the back side of the connector.
Does pulling the unit straight forward break the connection? It might be
a faulty pin or poorly captured one in the connector body.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269635#269635
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| Subject: | What makes diode get warm |
I have the B&C diode on the heat sink (smaller one). I was bench testing things
to make sure the flow was correct, I just took the breaker panel and hooked
up power to the main bus then the E-bus. The diode did not heat up at all, the
flow was in the correct direction. I hooked up power to the E-bus and the diode
did prevent current to the main bus, the main would only read 0.4 volts which
I assume is normal. With this set up the diode again did not heat up. I
then hooked up one of the 50W MR16 landing light bulbs to a CB thinking maybe
I needed a load, again the diode did not heat up.
So what make the diode heat up, is it more load on the system or is it when there
is power going to both buses, as when you have the master on and the E-bus
alternate feed on at the same time. With both buses getting power the diode is
getting power from both sides. I hear you can fly around this way but not sure
I will, my plan now is the have my E-bus alternate feed under a guarded switch
that stay off when guarded. When the E-bus gets power from the main via
the diode there is a slight voltage drop, the the E-bus alternate feed was on
the flow from the battery to the E-bus would win out and supply the E-bus since
the voltage from the main is lower. So would this meeting of currents be what
heats up the diode? As far as flying around with the E-bus alternate feed
on I don't see the need with my system I have a standby alternator. Once I am
using standby power then I might consider turning the alternate feed on for automatic
switching in case the standby alternator then quit. Thank for the help.
Cheer
Mike
--------
Mike "Nemo" Elliott
RV-8A QB (Fuselage)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269670#269670
Message 5
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| Subject: | Bending male tabs on diode |
My diode is mounted on my CB panel which is by my right leg. When I hooked up
the blade connectors they stick out just enough that the radius of wire touches
the fuselage. I bent over the tabs with some duck bill pliers, the diode arrived
with one tab slightly bent so I knew they are fairly easy to bend. The thing
bench tests fine, other than heat shrinking the connector since they are
closer to the sides of the diode is there anything wrong with doing this? Picture
attached for illustration.
--------
Mike "Nemo" Elliott
RV-8A QB (Fuselage)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269674#269674
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: What makes diode get warm |
rvg8tor wrote:
>
> I have the B&C diode on the heat sink (smaller one). I was bench testing things
to make sure the flow was correct, I just took the breaker panel and hooked
up power to the main bus then the E-bus. The diode did not heat up at all,
the flow was in the correct direction. I hooked up power to the E-bus and the
diode did prevent current to the main bus, the main would only read 0.4 volts
which I assume is normal. With this set up the diode again did not heat up.
I then hooked up one of the 50W MR16 landing light bulbs to a CB thinking maybe
I needed a load, again the diode did not heat up.
>
> So what make the diode heat up, is it more load on the system or is it when there
is power going to both buses, as when you have the master on and the E-bus
alternate feed on at the same time. With both buses getting power the diode
is getting power from both sides. I hear you can fly around this way but not
sure I will, my plan now is the have my E-bus alternate feed under a guarded
switch that stay off when guarded. When the E-bus gets power from the main via
the diode there is a slight voltage drop, the the E-bus alternate feed was on
the flow from the battery to the E-bus would win out and supply the E-bus since
the voltage from the main is lower. So would this meeting of currents be
what heats up the diode? As far as flying around with the E-bus alternate feed
on I don't see the need with my system I have a standby alternator. Once I
am using standby power then I might consider turning the alternate feed on for
automatic switching in case the standby alternator th!
> en quit. Thank for the help.
>
> Cheer
> Mike
>
> --------
Bob will probably provide a better answer, but the quick & dirty is
that it's called a 'semi-conductor' because it's not a pure conductor.
There's some resistance even with the electrons flowing 'forward', and
it will heat up due to the work being done pushing them through this
resistance, just like a wire heats up with a lot of current flowing
through it. With more electrons flowing (more current), more heat.
Charlie
Message 7
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| Subject: | What makes diode get warm |
Mike,
If you have a second alternator, and using B&C's regulators, you really
don't need the E buss.
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rvg8tor
Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 2:06 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: What makes diode get warm
I have the B&C diode on the heat sink (smaller one). I was bench testing
things to make sure the flow was correct, I just took the breaker panel and
hooked up power to the main bus then the E-bus. The diode did not heat up
at all, the flow was in the correct direction. I hooked up power to the
E-bus and the diode did prevent current to the main bus, the main would only
read 0.4 volts which I assume is normal. With this set up the diode again
did not heat up. I then hooked up one of the 50W MR16 landing light bulbs
to a CB thinking maybe I needed a load, again the diode did not heat up.
So what make the diode heat up, is it more load on the system or is it when
there is power going to both buses, as when you have the master on and the
E-bus alternate feed on at the same time. With both buses getting power the
diode is getting power from both sides. I hear you can fly around this way
but not sure I will, my plan now is the have my E-bus alternate feed under a
guarded switch that stay off when guarded. When the E-bus gets power from
the main via the diode there is a slight voltage drop, the the E-bus
alternate feed was on the flow from the battery to the E-bus would win out
and supply the E-bus since the voltage from the main is lower. So would
this meeting of currents be what heats up the diode? As far as flying
around with the E-bus alternate feed on I don't see the need with my system
I have a standby alternator. Once I am using standby power then I might
consider turning the alternate feed on for automatic switching in case the
standby alternator th!
en quit. Thank for the help.
Cheer
Mike
--------
Mike "Nemo" Elliott
RV-8A QB (Fuselage)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269670#269670
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: What makes diode get warm |
> <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>
> rvg8tor wrote:
>>
>> I have the B&C diode on the heat sink (smaller one). I was bench
>> testing things to make sure the flow was correct, I just took the
>> breaker panel and hooked up power to the main bus then the E-bus. The
>> diode did not heat up at all, the flow was in the correct direction. I
>> hooked up power to the E-bus and the diode did prevent current to the
>> main bus, the main would only read 0.4 volts which I assume is normal.
>> With this set up the diode again did not heat up. I then hooked up one
>> of the 50W MR16 landing light bulbs to a CB thinking maybe I needed a
>> load, again the diode did not heat up.
>>
>> So what make the diode heat up, is it more load on the system or is it
>> when there is power going to both buses, as when you have the master on
>> and the E-bus alternate feed on at the same time. With both buses
>> getting power the diode is getting power from both sides. I hear you
>> can fly around this way but not sure I will, my plan now is the have my
>> E-bus alternate feed under a guarded switch that stay off when guarded.
>> When the E-bus gets power from the main via the diode there is a slight
>> voltage drop, the the E-bus alternate feed was on the flow from the
>> battery to the E-bus would win out and supply the E-bus since the
>> voltage from the main is lower. So would this meeting of currents be
>> what heats up the diode? As far as flying around with the E-bus
>> alternate feed on I don't see the need with my system I have a standby
>> alternator. Once I am using standby power then I might consider turning
>> the alternate feed on for automatic switching in case the standby
>> alternator !
> th!
>> en quit. Thank for the help.
>>
>> Cheer
>> Mike
>>
>> --------
> Bob will probably provide a better answer, but the quick & dirty is
> that it's called a 'semi-conductor' because it's not a pure conductor.
> There's some resistance even with the electrons flowing 'forward', and
> it will heat up due to the work being done pushing them through this
> resistance, just like a wire heats up with a lot of current flowing
> through it. With more electrons flowing (more current), more heat.
>
> Charlie
>
Right.
The ebus diode will run hottest when the ebus is powered through it. To
observe this, the ebus alternate feed switch needs to be open, and power
(battery) directly to the main bus. At this point, any loads on the ebus
will pull current through the diode and cause it to heat up.
Regards,
Matt-
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna location |
I plan to position my transponder antenna (GTX330) just behind the firewall
on the left, next to the fuel vent line (RV9A). This location is about 34"
from the back of the transponder. Do you guys see any problems with this
location, if you do where would you place the antenna. The whip-style COM
antenna will be located behind the pilots seat. Also do you know of a good
wiring diagram between the SL30 and the GMA340 audio box. Thanks for any
help.
John
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna location |
John:
As a rule of thumb an antenna wants a ground plane around it that is
infinite. In practice it should be at least (roughly) a wave long or so i
n
all directions. The more the better. What I mean is that the antenna might
have a more radially uniform pattern if it was not right at the edge of the
floor skin, immediately behind the firewall. That gives it an asymmetric
ground plane and will distort the antenna pattern. I put mine closer to th
e
gear weldment (on a 6A) so that it was under the seat skins. I kept it abou
t
1 wavelength away from the steel (=conductive) landing gear. (at 1GHz 1 w
ave
is about a foot - your xponder antenna is 1/4 wave).
I haven't run the thing yet, so I can't tell you that it works well there,
just that it should work better there than at the forward edge of things.
In practice it might not matter much. Still, I thought it better not to
tempt fate. Antenna design is a black art.
On Tue, Oct 27, 2009 at 1:33 PM, John B Szantho <jszantho@gmail.com> wrote:
> I plan to position my transponder antenna (GTX330) just behind the
> firewall on the left, next to the fuel vent line (RV9A). This location is
> about 34=9D from the back of the transponder. Do you guys see any p
roblems
> with this location, if you do where would you place the antenna. The
> whip-style COM antenna will be located behind the pilots seat. Also do yo
u
> know of a good wiring diagram between the SL30 and the GMA340 audio box.
> Thanks for any help.
>
> John
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
Tom Sargent
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