Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:59 AM - Re: Crimpmaster for insulated, non-insulated, and open barrel (messydeer)
2. 02:07 PM - Re: KIS-List: Aircraft electric question ()
3. 03:36 PM - Re: Re: Crimpmaster for insulated, non-insulated, and open barrel (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 04:51 PM - Re: Crimpmaster for insulated, non-insulated, and open barrel (messydeer)
5. 06:55 PM - Battery Contactor Coil Wiring (messydeer)
6. 07:08 PM - Re: Battery Contactor Coil Wiring (Don)
7. 07:26 PM - Re: Battery Contactor Coil Wiring (Bob White)
8. 07:34 PM - Re: Battery Contactor Coil Wiring (messydeer)
9. 08:09 PM - Re: Re: Battery Contactor Coil Wiring (Don)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Crimpmaster for insulated, non-insulated, and open |
barrel
Thanks, Bob :-)
I would have used insulated terminals, but they don't make faston insulated terminals
for 8AWG. I already have the wire, so need to go with what they make, uninsulated
open barrel faston receptacles with separate ears for wire and insulation.
I've seen the open barrel crimpers with butt-cheek pockets, but I don't
have very many of these connections, so I'm thinking I could use my cheapo GB
crimper. It only goes down to 10awg, but since it's not a cycling crimper, it
might work. Or I could bend the tabs over individually using a pair of pliers.
Another issue I have is figuring out which end goes where with the Crimpaster for
PIDG terminals. The left side of the tool have dies shaped like flying saucers
and are coded with numbers and colors for size. The right side ones are more
elliptical. The right side also is a little narrower than the left. So the
terminal sticks out the left side and the wire goes in from the right?
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270247#270247
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/gb_cheapo_crimper_836.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/crimpmaster_right_side_270.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/crimpmaster_left_side_383.jpg
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: KIS-List: Aircraft electric question |
10/31/2009
Hello Al, You wrote: "When wiring for the systems that are controlled by
switches in the cockpit
such as lighting, flaps, pitot heat, do you run the full amperage through
the 20A switches or should the switches trip relays to handle the larger
current?"
If the switch is capable enough to handle the load it is simpler, and with
less parts count, to control the items directly with the switch. So you
start out with the switch rating and the current draw (including surge) of
the item to be controlled.
If you reach the point where the switch rating is inadequate then it is time
to start thinking in terms of relays. Of course the wire guage and circuit
protection device (fuses or circuit breakers) must also be appropriately
sized.
I know that there is a tendency among builders to shy away from the
electrical aspects of the building for a long time. It has been my
experience that once a builder gets his feet wet in this arena he almost
invariable realizes that this electrical stuff is fun, educational, and very
satisfying to work with.
If you don't already have a copy of Bob Nuckoll's book "The Aeroelectrical
Connection", -- see here:
https://matronics.com/aeroelectric/Catalog/pub/pub.html#P-Book
you should buy one or borrow one locally. You may rebel at first look and
say that this is far more than I need to know or want to know about this
subject -- fair enough, then treat it as reference material. It is not a
cook book per se, but that book plus the folks on the matronics
aeroelectric-list will do more towards keeping your electrical system on
track than any two other sources in the world.
I am going to shoot this over to the folks on the aeroelectric-list and see
how they react.
'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
understand knowledge."
PS: Please let me display one personal bias here. There are various magic
electrical boxes available commercially. The fundamental theme seems to run
along the line of "if you buy our box then all of your electrical problems
will be solved and you don't really need to learn anything or do anything
except just connect it up." Frequently the customers who go that route wind
up concluding that the magic box does not do exactly what they want it to
and they fish around for some sort of modification.
================================================
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alfred Rosa" <76papa@dishmail.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2009 3:39 PM
Subject: KIS-List: Aircraft electric question
> --> KIS-List message posted by: Alfred Rosa <76papa@dishmail.net>
>
> I know I could go to aeroelectric with this but they tend to talk too
> technical for me. My question is simple and maybe even stupid: When
> wiring for the systems that are controlled by switches in the cockpit
> such as lighting, flaps, pitot heat, do you run the full amperage
> through the 20A switches or should the switches trip relays to handle the
> larger current?
> Not that I'm doing the wiring now but it's something I've wondered about
> for a long time.
>
> Al
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Crimpmaster for insulated, non-insulated, |
and open barrel
At 12:54 PM 10/31/2009, you wrote:
>
>Thanks, Bob :-)
>
>I would have used insulated terminals, but they don't make faston
>insulated terminals for 8AWG.
8AWG is too large for fast-on. I don't recommend this
technology for anything larger than 12AWG/20A in airplanes.
The largest fuse/wire combo I'd recommend on a fuse-block
is 15Amps/14AWG. This is a de-rating thing to accommodate
the aircraft environs.
> I already have the wire, so need to go with what they make,
> uninsulated open barrel faston receptacles with separate ears for
> wire and insulation. I've seen the open barrel crimpers with
> butt-cheek pockets, but I don't have very many of these
> connections, so I'm thinking I could use my cheapo GB crimper. It
> only goes down to 10awg, but since it's not a cycling crimper, it
> might work. Or I could bend the tabs over individually using a
> pair of pliers.
Where are you needing to put an 8AWG to a fast-on tab? 8AWG
implies loads upwards of 40A. I'd stay in threaded fastener
and ring terminal world for this much current.
>Another issue I have is figuring out which end goes where with the
>Crimpaster for PIDG terminals. The left side of the tool have dies
>shaped like flying saucers and are coded with numbers and colors for
>size. The right side ones are more elliptical. The right side also
>is a little narrower than the left. So the terminal sticks out the
>left side and the wire goes in from the right?
This is explained in the last panel of:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/CrimpTools/crimptools.html
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Crimpmaster for insulated, non-insulated, and open |
barrel
> Where are you needing to put an 8AWG to a fast-on tab? 8AWG
> implies loads upwards of 40A.
Sonex plans show using 8AWG for the power distribution circuit. I have a Jabiru
3300 that puts out between 13A and 20A, depending on which set of their numbers
you use.
The two alternator leads end in female fastons. Can't see the gauge, but they're
a little bigger compared to a piece of 12awg wire with insulation when held
next to it.
The voltage regulator has 6 wires, all with faston terminals. The size of these
wires are also covered, but they look to be about the same size as my 12AWG wire.
So I'm thinking it would be best to get 12AWG for this circuit and use fastons.
It would be ~3' between the filter capacitor and my main bus, both of which have
posts. Would 10AWG be better for this section?
> This is explained in the last panel of:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/CrimpTools/crimptools.html
I saw this in that article:
As a general rule, tools with unsymetrical dies will have a smaller, closed-die
cross section on the wire grip side.
which sounds like it would apply to the Crimpmaster.
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270282#270282
Message 5
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| Subject: | Battery Contactor Coil Wiring |
Hi!
I've got a Tyco EV200 battery contactor. In addition to the two high current posts,
it has two small wires labelled coil positive and coil negative. The Z diagrams
show just one wire between the switch and battery contactor. In my case,
seems like this would be the coil positive. So where would the coil negative
wire be connected?
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270293#270293
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tyco_ev200_battery_contactor_wiring_664.pdf
Message 6
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| Subject: | Battery Contactor Coil Wiring |
It probably drives a light to tell you that the contactor is closed. This
can be helpful to prevent starter damage.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of messydeer
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2009 6:50 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Battery Contactor Coil Wiring
Hi!
I've got a Tyco EV200 battery contactor. In addition to the two high current
posts, it has two small wires labelled coil positive and coil negative. The
Z diagrams show just one wire between the switch and battery contactor. In
my case, seems like this would be the coil positive. So where would the coil
negative wire be connected?
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270293#270293
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tyco_ev200_battery_contactor_wiring_664.p
df
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Contactor Coil Wiring |
Hi Dan,
Take a look at how the switch is wired. Most likely it connects the
wire to the contactor to ground. In this case, the red wire can be
connected directly to the large terminal that goes to the battery.
Connect the black wire to the lead to the switch. You don't need the
diode when using the EV200.
If the switch connects the wire on the contactor to a bus (12V), then
the black wire would be connected to ground.
Bob W.
On Sat, 31 Oct 2009 18:50:19 -0700
"messydeer" <messydeer@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Hi!
>
> I've got a Tyco EV200 battery contactor. In addition to the two high current
posts, it has two small wires labelled coil positive and coil negative. The Z
diagrams show just one wire between the switch and battery contactor. In my case,
seems like this would be the coil positive. So where would the coil negative
wire be connected?
>
> --------
> Dan
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270293#270293
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/tyco_ev200_battery_contactor_wiring_664.pdf
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
Now Rotary Powered Alpine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FwceNc2ydN8
Cables for your rotary installation - http://roblinstores.com/
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Contactor Coil Wiring |
Thanks, but this is a battery contactor. Seems like what you're saying might work
for starter contactor, or am I missing something?
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270306#270306
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Contactor Coil Wiring |
You are not missing anything, I mis read the post. Sorry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of messydeer
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2009 7:31 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Battery Contactor Coil Wiring
Thanks, but this is a battery contactor. Seems like what you're saying might
work for starter contactor, or am I missing something?
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270306#270306
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