AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Sat 11/14/09


Total Messages Posted: 2



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 07:00 AM - Failure Detection and Annunciation (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     2. 10:54 PM - Solid Wire for Ground (messydeer)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 07:00:41 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Failure Detection and Annunciation
    Bob, Was reviewing your article: <http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Failure_Detection_and_Annunciation.pdf>http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Failure_Detection_and_Annunciation.pdf Alan, sorry for the delay on this. I'm fielding input from the List on three different computers which scatters my to-answer list over three in-boxes. I have to scan the forum archives from time to time to make sure I don't have any dangling conversations! I want to annunciate the failure of a 12v scavenge pump to draw current. You mention such a circuit being used on a heated pitot but I was wondering if it mattered if the load was a pump motor? Full load would be approximately 5 amps and it needs to be running whenever the engine is running. I figured the LED would come on whenever I put power to the ECU and Ignition and would quickly go out if the scavenge pump was pulling power as it should. Thus, even if I "forgot" to flip the switch for the scavenge pump, the LED would illuminate until I did AND the pump was pulling power. Sounds like a plan Any problem with a motor as opposed to a resistance load? Any other things I should consider? There are many ways to deduce whether or not an accessory is drawing the expected current (and therefore assumed functional). Since your pump has a 100% duty cycle, perhaps it would be better to rig the annunciation such that you have a warning light which speaks to the pump NOT running. It's a human factors thing that an undesirable condition be annunciated by turning a light ON as opposed to watching to make sure a light doesn't turn OFF. The reed-switch current relay I illustrated in that article has been incorporated by the thousands in all manner of monitored systems for many years. A friend of mine has been manufacturing those sensors in a wide variety of current detection levels for decades. I would not discourage you from crafting a similar device . . . but they DO require a bit of tinkering on the bench to make sure that the reed is going to be closed when it's supposed to . . . Further, keep in mind that the warning light side of the sensor system needs to be powered from some source OTHER than power that runs the motor. You don't want a failure warning light to be dark just because the supply fuse/breaker is open. Further, you'll want to have a pre-flight test item that checks the light for operation by turning the pump switch OFF. Emacs! Power to the light doesn't need "protection" with fuse or breaker if you mount the resistor close to the bus-tap . . . the resistor's current limiting qualities protects the wiring. A 1K resistor can be installed in the source wire like . . . http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Homeless/Homeless_Components.htm Build your relay so that it pulls in with anything over 2A or so. http://jameco.com sells reed capsules. Bob . . . --------------------------------------- ( It's MATRONICS FUND RAISER MONTH! ) ( Do your part to keep this marvelous ) ( tool sharp and available to all our ) ( brothers in the OBAM aviation ) ( community. ) ---------------------------------------


    Message 2


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    Time: 10:54:13 PM PST US
    Subject: Solid Wire for Ground
    From: "messydeer" <messydeer@yahoo.com>
    Hello! I didn't have any Tefzel stranded 10awg for the ground wire for about a 3' run from my panel ground to my firwall ground. The little bit of soldering I've done so far has been sorta fun, so I figured I'd use a piece of solid 10awg wire I had laying around (non-Tefzel). Into a noninsulated 8awg ring, I put this solid wire in plus a tiny piece of 12awg stranded wire to bulk up the space. Crimped it down good in a couple places, then soldered. Although the thicker wires took a bit longer to heat up, it eventually got there. I figure if it's a ground wire, it won't heat up and be a primary source of fire, poisoning me with the plastic coating. The other concern I have is the solid wire. I know it's susceptible to cracking if it's bent back and forth a few times in a tight radius. That's not the case here, as I'm using maybe 1" radius corners. Would this be okay to use just for the ground wire with no tight bends? -------- Dan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=272881#272881




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