Today's Message Index:
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1. 06:38 AM - Re: Re: Solid Wire for Ground (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 10:36 AM - Re: Solid Wire for Ground (messydeer)
3. 11:17 AM - Re: Re: Solid Wire for Ground (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 11:24 AM - Crowbar Circuit (Peter Mather)
5. 02:30 PM - [Fw: How Pumpkin Pies are made] (RScott)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Solid Wire for Ground |
At 11:20 AM 11/15/2009, you wrote:
>
>Thanks, guys :-)
>
>Sounds like I'll get some stranded wire for this. My panel ground is
>located on the under side of the permanantly mounted glare shield.
>It's a few inches away from the main buss block, whose piano hinge
>sections can be seen in the pic.
>
>Regarding the panel ground buss, I have used a section of the B&C
>forest of tabs. It would be convenient to rivet the brass block to
>the glare shield and use one of the tabs to connect to the firewall.
>Would using a faston for 10awg wire here be okay, or would it be
>better to solder it, or both? I'd rather not have an ugly bolt head
>on top of the glare shield.
>
>If I solder without the female faston, would I just drill a hole in
>one of the tabs big enough for the bare wire to go through and
>solder it like that?
>
>If soldering isn't as good as a ring to bolt connection, I'd prolly
>make a little standoff bracket for the panel ground.
The common point ground for stuff mounted on the
instrument panel generally needs a LOT of places
to attach ground wires. Further, these are seldom
larger wires than 20AWG. This is why the D-Sub
ground connector was proposed.
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Grounding/AVG_RA.jpg
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Grounding/Avionics_Bus_3.jpg
This technique is much more compact than the
forest-of-tabs product . . . and is best located
on the panel - centrally located to the majority
of devices requiring ground attachments.
You can fabricate your own ground connector
using techniques illustrated here
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Grounding/Minibus1.jpg
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Grounding/Minibus2.jpg
This example was produced to offer a means by
which lots of instrument lights could be connected
to a single dimmer. Obviously, if used only as
a single point ground, you don't need two-circuits
on the connector. Solder TWO 12AWG grounds to the
row of pins and terminate each 12AWG on it's own
tab at the forest-of-tabs block on the firewall.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Solid Wire for Ground |
Thanks, Bob :-)
I will only have 8 or 10 wires to ground in the panel. The section of tab forest
for the panel ground has 20 tabs. I may need to get D-Sub tools, supplies, and
skills for installing my not-yet-bought radio, but that's down the road a bit.
Even if I had the stuff for it, it would only save me a little space, which
surprisingly isn't much of an issue in this particular case.
My ground blocks consist of one 48 tab ground block from B&C cut into three sections.
12 tabs are on the forward side of the firewall, 16 tabs on the rear side
with a bolt and rivet connecting the two blocks. That leaves a 20 tab section
available for the panel ground buss. There's actually no individual grounds
going to the rear side of the firewall, just the single wire from the panel ground
block. I can't think of anything in the future that I would add that I couldn't
ground to the glare shield mounted panel ground buss. So could I eliminate
the rear firewall block completely, and just connect the panel ground block
wire to the big bolt through the firewall?
Since I have 10awg to the main buss, I understand I need a 10awg ground. I would
like to know how soldering this ground wire to a drilled out faston tab of the
panel ground forest might work, or if it's better to use a #10 bolt and ring.
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273743#273743
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Solid Wire for Ground |
>
>Since I have 10awg to the main buss, I understand I need a 10awg
>ground. I would like to know how soldering this ground wire to a
>drilled out faston tab of the panel ground forest might work, or if
>it's better to use a #10 bolt and ring.
Ring terminal and bolt.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( It's MATRONICS FUND RAISER MONTH! )
( Do your part to keep this marvelous )
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( community. )
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Message 4
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If anyone is interested I've posted a circuit and veroboard layout for a
tested and working crowbar circuit based on the MC3423 chip on the blog for
my Wittman Tailwind build. Total parts cost around $5.
http://tailwindbuild.blogspot.com/2009/11/15th-november-2009-overvoltage-crowbar.html
Click on the pics/diagrams to enlarge
The variable resistor allows the crowbar voltage to be set as required and
compensates for differences in the internal reference voltage on the MC3423.
Best regards
Peter
Message 5
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| Subject: | [Fwd: How Pumpkin Pies are made] |
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