Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:07 AM - Re: DIY VHF Comm antenna (Peter Mather)
2. 06:19 AM - Re: DIY VHF Comm antenna (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 06:20 AM - Re: DIY VHF Comm antenna (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 07:07 AM - Re: Auxillary Battery Installation... ()
5. 08:03 AM - Re: Auxillary Battery Installation... (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 08:33 AM - Re: Auxillary Battery Installation... ()
7. 11:39 AM - Re: Tachometer Generator Wiring (Craig Winkelmann)
8. 11:41 AM - Hobbs Meter (Craig Winkelmann)
9. 12:03 PM - Re: Hobbs Meter ()
10. 12:25 PM - Re: Hobbs Meter (BobsV35B@aol.com)
11. 07:31 PM - Re: Hobbs Meter (Craig Winkelmann)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: DIY VHF Comm antenna |
Bob
Why not use a whip adapter like http://tinyurl.com/ydstkmb to mount the
antenna to the mounting stud?
Best regards
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 6:05 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: DIY VHF Comm antenna
See:
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Antenna/DIY_Comm_Antenna.jpg
Here's a starting point for any readers who would
like to experiment with their own DIY comm antennas:
This design starts with a CB radio antenna mounting
stud:
http://tinyurl.com/yzygjbq
The design goal is to add a steel (preferably
stainless) antenna rod to the antenna side of
the mounting stud, prevent rotation of assembly in
the mounting hole, and (optionally) add an adapter
that is friendly to the commonly used BNC feedline
connectors.
In the example illustrated, I silver soldered a
piece of 3/16 stainless rod in a hole drilled into
a steel hex head 3/8-24 x 1/2" bolt. 10% of thread
area on the bolt are "buggered" up to provide an "upset-
metal" connection between the bolt and female threads
in the mounting stud. Avoid damage to first three threads
so that the bolt will start easily.
Put upper coupler of antenna stud in vise. Coat threads of
antenna rod with a thread-locker . . . or just E-6000
adhesive. This is more for moisture sealing than anything
else. Thread the antenna into the coupler. It will go in with some
resistance due to "damaged" threads . . . but the goal
is to achieve some level of gas-tightness between the
bolt and the coupler.
Fabricate a piece of .060 or so brass tab and soft-solder
with 63/37 alloy. You'll have to clean the plating off
the interface surface of the lower half of the coupler
to get a good sweat. Avoid excessive heat that will damage
the stud's plastic insulator.
Add UHF to BNC adapter as shown or plan on using a
UHF male connector at the end of your feedline.
Cut the overall length of the antenna to 22" (tip
to mounting surface). Round tip on grinder to avoid
sharp edges at the end. If you like, put a 45 degree
or so "rakish" bend in the antenna rod beginning about
6" off the mounting surface.
Mount to airplane in a robust skin doubler riveted
to the skin and picking up some structure if possible.
Brighten the surfaces that come together. Use #8 hardware
to ground the anti-rotation tab. Truss head screws are
suggested.
This is about #3 in a series of designs I've considered
writing up in the 'Connection. It has evolved to the
stage that it would be good for some of you folks to take
a whack at building it. Let me know what problems you
encounter with fabrication, installation or service.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
=
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=======
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: DIY VHF Comm antenna |
At 03:04 AM 12/3/2009, you wrote:
>Bob
>
>Why not use a whip adapter like
><http://tinyurl.com/ydstkmb>http://tinyurl.com/ydstkmb to mount the
>antenna to the mounting stud?
That could work. Keep in mind that one design goal for
antennas is to drive the metallic joins to as close
to zero-ohms as possible . . . particularly at the
high current segments of the antenna (at the bottom).
Further, one is interested in mechanical robustness.
A set-screw doesn't offer much security for retaining
the antenna rod in the adapter. Of course, you could
silver-solder the rod into the adapter basically turning
it into a fancy bolt. It's a option to consider while
seeking the elegant solution. Thanks for the heads-up!
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
================================
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: DIY VHF Comm antenna |
At 02:41 PM 12/2/2009, you wrote:
>Or have this guy make you what you need - it will probably outlast
>your airframe.
>
><http://bellsouthpwp.net/b/r/breedlove1/>http://bellsouthpwp.net/b/r/breedlove1/
>
>Bill N4DLN
>
>Not a customer of his (yet) but he has good reviews on the HF mobile groups
>
Hmmm . . . nice find. I might write to him with some
design goals and see what he suggests. Looks like
a talented and capable fellow . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
================================
Message 4
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| Subject: | Auxillary Battery Installation... |
Bob,
I wanted to bubble this question up once more to get your comment on my
options to proceed. Thanks!
Glenn E. Long
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
longg@pjm.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 9:38 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Auxillary Battery Installation...
Bob,
>Okay, how many electrical feeds are necessary to keep
>the engine running and what devices do they service?
Quick answer: 1. Life is pretty simple. I've got 2 Dynons both with
independent AHRS and internal battery so I'm pretty much covered for
attitude, airspeed etc. Radio and gps backup are handheld.
The big nickel is keeping one of two of the Lightspeed Ignition boxes
alive. Each box requires a min of 5 volts before they drop off the
planet. By design it is suggested that one connect to the main bus and
one to the aux bus. When things go south it is recommended to take one
off line to save remaining power.
With the exception of maybe an interior light, I could probably fly it
in just so even in the dark which is when I fly the most. I'm installing
a night vision camera which is < 3 amps and optional on a clear night.
No need for a landing light in most cases.
Right now I have each on an independent circuit (30 amp in line fuse
holders) followed by two potter 5 amp CB panel switches. Source for both
is directly off the battery side of the main battery contactor. Klaus
might prefer I bolt that line directly to the battery, but I have not
done that yet.
Thanks,
Glenn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 2:17 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Auxillary Battery Installation...
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
At 10:38 AM 12/1/2009, you wrote:
>
>Thanks Bob,
>
>Yeah, nothing is easy. My goal for the backup battery is to ensure
>reliability of my electrically dependent ignition should a major event
>occur in the primary charging/battery system. Note, I have an SD8 for a
>backup alt which feeds the essential bus.
Okay, how many electrical feeds are necessary to keep
the engine running and what devices do they service?
>So, the design goal is that when all else fails,
I'll suggest we strive to eliminate "when all else fails"
from the lexicon of airplanespeak. It's a vague, broad brush
admission that we're unsure as to the SYSTEM reliability
of our design. The feel-good response is to stack on
"safety enhancements" that tend to prop up an ill-defined
or mis-understood system.
"All else" says you've suffered MULTIPLE failures of items
necessary for continued flight . . . or perhaps ONE failure
for which no plan-b was crafted.
If you have an SD-8 + main alternator and an RG battery,
perhaps you already have enough stuff to keep the grim-
salvager from getting a call to come clean up the
aluminum mess you made.
Give us a list the electro-whizzies that keep the
engine going along with their current requirements
and we'll go from there.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( It's MATRONICS FUND RAISER MONTH! )
( Do your part to keep this marvelous )
( tool sharp and available to all our )
( brothers in the OBAM aviation )
( community. )
---------------------------------------
Message 5
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| Subject: | Auxillary Battery Installation... |
At 08:38 PM 12/1/2009, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
> >Okay, how many electrical feeds are necessary to keep
> >the engine running and what devices do they service?
>
>Quick answer: 1. Life is pretty simple. I've got 2 Dynons both with
>independent AHRS and internal battery so I'm pretty much covered for
>attitude, airspeed etc. Radio and gps backup are handheld.
>
>The big nickel is keeping one of two of the Lightspeed Ignition boxes
>alive. Each box requires a min of 5 volts before they drop off the
>planet. By design it is suggested that one connect to the main bus and
>one to the aux bus. When things go south it is recommended to take one
>off line to save remaining power.
Z-13/8 with a rationally maintained RG battery will
always have a source of energy needed to keep one
if not both ignition systems running.
If it were my airplane, #1 ignition would drive from
a fuse on the main bus. #2 would run from a fuse on the
battery bus. No extra batteries. No breakers. Only the
normal ON/OFF control switches.
Configure your e-bus as
>With the exception of maybe an interior light, I could probably fly it
>in just so even in the dark which is when I fly the most. I'm installing
>a night vision camera which is < 3 amps and optional on a clear night.
>No need for a landing light in most cases.
>
>Right now I have each on an independent circuit (30 amp in line fuse
>holders) followed by two potter 5 amp CB panel switches. Source for both
>is directly off the battery side of the main battery contactor. Klaus
>might prefer I bolt that line directly to the battery, but I have not
>done that yet.
There are multiple recipes for success that use common
ingredients. Be cautious of mixing-matching the ingredients
between recipes. Z-13/8 will service your needs SIMPLY and
nicely with no single points of failure for keeping the engine
running.
Configure the e-bus with attention to design goals
described in chapter 17.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
================================
Message 6
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| Subject: | Auxillary Battery Installation... |
Great,
Thanks Bob. Glenn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 11:00 AM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Auxillary Battery Installation...
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
At 08:38 PM 12/1/2009, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
> >Okay, how many electrical feeds are necessary to keep
> >the engine running and what devices do they service?
>
>Quick answer: 1. Life is pretty simple. I've got 2 Dynons both with
>independent AHRS and internal battery so I'm pretty much covered for
>attitude, airspeed etc. Radio and gps backup are handheld.
>
>The big nickel is keeping one of two of the Lightspeed Ignition boxes
>alive. Each box requires a min of 5 volts before they drop off the
>planet. By design it is suggested that one connect to the main bus and
>one to the aux bus. When things go south it is recommended to take one
>off line to save remaining power.
Z-13/8 with a rationally maintained RG battery will
always have a source of energy needed to keep one
if not both ignition systems running.
If it were my airplane, #1 ignition would drive from
a fuse on the main bus. #2 would run from a fuse on the
battery bus. No extra batteries. No breakers. Only the
normal ON/OFF control switches.
Configure your e-bus as
>With the exception of maybe an interior light, I could probably fly it
>in just so even in the dark which is when I fly the most. I'm
installing
>a night vision camera which is < 3 amps and optional on a clear night.
>No need for a landing light in most cases.
>
>Right now I have each on an independent circuit (30 amp in line fuse
>holders) followed by two potter 5 amp CB panel switches. Source for
both
>is directly off the battery side of the main battery contactor. Klaus
>might prefer I bolt that line directly to the battery, but I have not
>done that yet.
There are multiple recipes for success that use common
ingredients. Be cautious of mixing-matching the ingredients
between recipes. Z-13/8 will service your needs SIMPLY and
nicely with no single points of failure for keeping the engine
running.
Configure the e-bus with attention to design goals
described in chapter 17.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
================================
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Tachometer Generator Wiring |
Bob:
Just want to provide feedback on your help....I found a squaring circuit that was
pre-made and installed it and it works perfect. Thanks for all your help.
Craig
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276008#276008
Message 8
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I am interested in changing how the Hobbs meter in my plane is wired (it is currently
wired to the radio master - not the best place for it) and don't want to
install an oil pressure switch. I know I read in the EAA magazine many months
back of alternative ways of doing so, but can't find the article.
What other ways have been done? I think the writer of the EAA article used the
field for the alternator.
Any suggestions?
Craig
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276010#276010
Message 9
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Craig,
Go wireless. There are units available now that work on vibration. No
fussing about with wires. BTW - I have an old wired job if someone wants
a challenge. New in box. Free for asking but don't let me see it on
eBay. If you don't have a need for it right now, don't ask.
Glenn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Craig
Winkelmann
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 2:40 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Hobbs Meter
<capav8r@gmail.com>
I am interested in changing how the Hobbs meter in my plane is wired (it
is currently wired to the radio master - not the best place for it) and
don't want to install an oil pressure switch. I know I read in the EAA
magazine many months back of alternative ways of doing so, but can't
find the article.
What other ways have been done? I think the writer of the EAA article
used the field for the alternator.
Any suggestions?
Craig
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276010#276010
Message 10
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Good Afternoon Craig,
It all depends on what you want to record.
For a certificated flying machine, the FAA only requires that we log the
actual flying time. Taxiing to the gas pumps, maintenance runups, and taxiing
to the runway do not have to be recorded. If you want to use the time for
pilot logging purposes, all time from the time when the engine is started
for the purpose of flight to the engine shut down following a flight counts.
Kinda tricky if you want to taxi to the gas pump without logging time!
The easiest way to get only flight time is with a ground reference strut
switch.
Another suitable method is with an air pressure operated switch in the
pitot line Some folks use a simple air operated vane on a strut, wing, belly,
or elsewhere
We formerly operated a fleet of Helicopters. For maintenance purposes, we
had a Hobbs hooked up to a switch on the collective, It only recorded time
when the collective was off the stop. For charging the customer, we had a
Hobbs on the Master switch. It recorded time from the moment the master
switch went on until it was turned off.
As Always, It All Depends! <G>
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA' Bob Siegfried
Downers Grove, Illinois
Stearman N3977A
In a message dated 12/3/2009 1:42:57 P.M. Central Standard Time,
capav8r@gmail.com writes:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Craig Winkelmann"
<capav8r@gmail.com>
I am interested in changing how the Hobbs meter in my plane is wired (it
is currently wired to the radio master - not the best place for it) and
don't want to install an oil pressure switch. I know I read in the EAA
magazine many months back of alternative ways of doing so, but can't find the
article.
What other ways have been done? I think the writer of the EAA article
used the field for the alternator.
Any suggestions?
Craig
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276010#276010
Message 11
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In my experimental plane with a radial engine, the hobbs was wired to the radio
master by the prior owner with the thought that the radios are on when flying.
However, there is time the radios are on when the engine is not running (testing
equipment, checking atis, etc).
Since the tach does not track "engine time" I am in need of a good way to track
something close to it (Hobbs time) so I have a reminder when to change the oil.
My thought was the field on the alternator. The plane has an EI Superclock that
can track time from when power is applied to one lead.
Craig
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276111#276111
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