AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Sun 12/20/09


Total Messages Posted: 13



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 07:33 AM - Re: Ammeter help (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     2. 07:37 AM - Re: Ammeter help (oops . . . bad URL) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     3. 07:57 AM - 120 volt connectors (bob noffs)
     4. 09:00 AM - Re: 120 volt connectors (Bill Boyd)
     5. 10:07 AM - GRT MFD For Sale (Scott)
     6. 12:05 PM - Re: Ammeter help (John Burnaby)
     7. 01:01 PM - Re: 120 volt connectors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     8. 01:04 PM - Re: Ammeter help (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     9. 01:43 PM - Re: 120 volt connectors (bob noffs)
    10. 06:02 PM - dual battery charging (James Robinson)
    11. 06:03 PM - Re: 120 volt connectors (Charlie England)
    12. 06:58 PM - Re: dual battery charging (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    13. 07:03 PM - Re: 120 volt connectors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 07:33:23 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Ammeter help
    At 01:18 AM 12/20/2009, you wrote: >Folks; >Looking for some help in locating an ammeter installation kit of >some sort, similar to B&C AEC9035-1 (discontinued). Ideally, it >would have a current sensor such as a Tamura L08P050D15 (50 amp or a >little smaller) with the required signal processing built in and >come with an edgewise 50-0-50 (or 30-0-30) analog panel meter. I was >surprised there was not something already made up (or at least >easier to find) as I would think there would be a market for it. All >help greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. > >-- Keith > > The AEC9035 was a proposed project that never made it to the market. Too complex and too expensive to build for the value delivered. Battery ammeters are of limited utility and require a higher level of understanding to be as useful as a simple LV warning light and perhaps alternator load-meters. In a system that's designed with attention to failure mode effects analysis and complimented by (Plans-B for critical failures), the ammeter offers no useful data for operating the airplane. Its most powerful function is as a diagnostics tool. Hence, the market is small. We do offer a customized kit for the installation of load meters on one or dual alternator systems. These use the simple, stable, accurate metallic shunts and simple, low cost, pivot and jewel, d'Arsonval meters . . . Emacs! See: https://matronics.com/aeroelectric/Catalog/AEC/9007/9007.html This approach proved the most elegant for ruggedness, stability of calibration and cost of ownership when the builder desires a panel display of current. Bob . . .


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:37:09 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Ammeter help (oops . . . bad URL)
    At 01:18 AM 12/20/2009, you wrote: >Folks; >Looking for some help in locating an ammeter installation kit of >some sort, similar to B&C AEC9035-1 (discontinued). Ideally, it >would have a current sensor such as a Tamura L08P050D15 (50 amp or a >little smaller) with the required signal processing built in and >come with an edgewise 50-0-50 (or 30-0-30) analog panel meter. I was >surprised there was not something already made up (or at least >easier to find) as I would think there would be a market for it. All >help greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. > >-- Keith > The AEC9035 was a proposed project that never made it to the market. Too complex and too expensive to build for the value delivered. Battery ammeters are of limited utility and require a higher level of understanding to be as useful as a simple LV warning light and perhaps alternator load-meters. In a system that's designed with attention to failure mode effects analysis and complimented by (Plans-B for critical failures), the ammeter offers no useful data for operating the airplane. Its most powerful function is as a diagnostics tool. Hence, the market is small. We do offer a customized kit for the installation of load meters on one or dual alternator systems. These use the simple, stable, accurate metallic shunts and simple, low cost, pivot and jewel, d'Arsonval meters . . . Emacs! See THE RIGHT LINKAGE here: http://aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9007/9007.html This approach proved the most elegant for ruggedness, stability of calibration and cost of ownership when the builder desires a panel display of current. Bob . . .


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:57:12 AM PST US
    Subject: 120 volt connectors
    From: bob noffs <icubob@gmail.com>
    hi all, i am making up a wiring harness for silicon pad heaters for my jab. 6 heaters at 50-100 watts each. i would like to use a connector for each pad lead . any suggestions for a 120 volt set up like this? bob noffs


    Message 4


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    Time: 09:00:13 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: 120 volt connectors
    From: Bill Boyd <sportav8r@gmail.com>
    Wow. 2-minutes from plug-in to oil temps in the green, eh? 600 watts ought to get you there! I have been planning to use a computer power supply cord and cannibalized AC chassis socket in the side of my cowl for this job, but have never gotten around to it. Aversion to fiberglass work set in shortly after I got her flying a decade ago ;-) Bill Boyd RV-6A On Sun, Dec 20, 2009 at 10:27 AM, bob noffs <icubob@gmail.com> wrote: > hi all, > i am making up a wiring harness for silicon pad heaters for my jab. 6 > heaters at 50-100 watts each. i would like to use a connector for each pad > lead . any suggestions for a 120 volt set up like this? > bob noffs > > * > > * > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 10:07:54 AM PST US
    From: "Scott" <scott428@tds.net>
    Subject: GRT MFD For Sale
    For Sale: Display only, Like New, Grand Rapids Technologies, Standard Resolution, Horizon Series One. Display has less than one hour of operation and is in excellent condition. A new display from GRT is $2,000 -- will let mine go for $1,250. See http://www.grtavionics.com/product.aspx?productno=1&featureno=4 for information and screen shots. Contact: Scott Fifield 927 Shoshone Street Strasburg, CO 80136 scott428@tds.net (303) 622-6868 Home Do Not Archive


    Message 6


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    Time: 12:05:42 PM PST US
    From: "John Burnaby" <jonlaury@impulse.net>
    Subject: Re: Ammeter help
    Keith, This is a very tidy, versatile unit at an attractive price. Check out the user manual. http://www.aircraftdigital.com/DIGITAL_AMMETER.html


    Message 7


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    Time: 01:01:13 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: 120 volt connectors
    At 10:15 AM 12/20/2009, you wrote: >Wow. 2-minutes from plug-in to oil temps in the green, eh? 600 >watts ought to get you there! > >I have been planning to use a computer power supply cord and >cannibalized AC chassis socket in the side of my cowl for this job, >but have never gotten around to it. Aversion to fiberglass work set >in shortly after I got her flying a decade ago ;-) > >Bill Boyd RV-6A > >On Sun, Dec 20, 2009 at 10:27 AM, bob noffs ><<mailto:icubob@gmail.com>icubob@gmail.com> wrote: >hi all, > i am making up a wiring harness for silicon pad heaters for my > jab. 6 heaters at 50-100 watts each. i would like to use a > connector for each pad lead . any suggestions for a 120 volt set up like this? How about knife-splices with heat-shrink covers for harness work under the cowl. See: http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/ksplc2.jpg Bill's suggestion for a detachable line cord is sound. You can salvage a recessed chassis mount male connector from about any old piece of computing hardware. One of my customers on 1K1 did the same thing. His heater connector was accessible through the oil filler door on top of the cowl. Bob . . .


    Message 8


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    Time: 01:04:30 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Ammeter help
    At 02:02 PM 12/20/2009, you wrote: >Keith, > > >This is a very tidy, versatile unit at an attractive price. Check >out the user manual. > ><http://www.aircraftdigital.com/DIGITAL_AMMETER.html>http://www.aircraftdigital.com/DIGITAL_AMMETER.html I've seen this (or similar) instruments used as a loadmeter. You set it up to read a 100A shunt (50mv = 100.0) and then size the shunt to the full scale value of alternator. A little label over the AMPS nomenclature to read LOAD allows the single instrument to be switched to multiple systems. Bob . . .


    Message 9


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    Time: 01:43:15 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: 120 volt connectors
    From: bob noffs <icubob@gmail.com>
    i guess my question wasn.t clear. i am concerned about what type of radio shack connector will be acceptable for 120 volts where each heatpad lead connects to the ''main'' lead. i would see the ''main lead'' wired into the ac chassis socket. bob noffs On Sun, Dec 20, 2009 at 2:59 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote: > At 10:15 AM 12/20/2009, you wrote: > > Wow. 2-minutes from plug-in to oil temps in the green, eh? 600 watts ought > to get you there! > > I have been planning to use a computer power supply cord and cannibalized > AC chassis socket in the side of my cowl for this job, but have never gotten > around to it. Aversion to fiberglass work set in shortly after I got her > flying a decade ago ;-) > > Bill Boyd RV-6A > > On Sun, Dec 20, 2009 at 10:27 AM, bob noffs <icubob@gmail.com> wrote: > hi all, > i am making up a wiring harness for silicon pad heaters for my jab. 6 > heaters at 50-100 watts each. i would like to use a connector for each pad > lead . any suggestions for a 120 volt set up like this? > > > How about knife-splices with heat-shrink covers for > harness work under the cowl. See: > > http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/ksplc2.jpg > > Bill's suggestion for a detachable line cord is sound. > You can salvage a recessed chassis mount male connector > from about any old piece of computing hardware. One > of my customers on 1K1 did the same thing. His heater > connector was accessible through the oil filler door > on top of the cowl. > > Bob . . . > > * > > > * > >


    Message 10


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    Time: 06:02:02 PM PST US
    From: James Robinson <jbr79r@yahoo.com>
    Subject: dual battery charging
    I have a dual battery system in my Glasair. Is there an easy way to charge both battery simultaneously. I do have a Xconnect switch to connect both systems if necessary. Could that be used to charge both batteries at the same time? Jim James Robinson Glasairlll N79R Spanish Fork UT U77


    Message 11


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    Time: 06:03:14 PM PST US
    From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: 120 volt connectors
    On 12/20/2009 3:41 PM, bob noffs wrote: > i guess my question wasn.t clear. i am concerned about what type of > radio shack connector will be acceptable for 120 volts where each > heatpad lead connects to the ''main'' lead. i would see the ''main > lead'' wired into the ac chassis socket. > bob noffs > > On Sun, Dec 20, 2009 at 2:59 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III > <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com <mailto:nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>> > wrote: > > At 10:15 AM 12/20/2009, you wrote: >> Wow. 2-minutes from plug-in to oil temps in the green, eh? 600 >> watts ought to get you there! >> >> I have been planning to use a computer power supply cord and >> cannibalized AC chassis socket in the side of my cowl for this >> job, but have never gotten around to it. Aversion to fiberglass >> work set in shortly after I got her flying a decade ago ;-) >> >> Bill Boyd RV-6A >> >> On Sun, Dec 20, 2009 at 10:27 AM, bob noffs <icubob@gmail.com >> <mailto:icubob@gmail.com>> wrote: >> >> hi all, >> i am making up a wiring harness for silicon pad heaters for >> my jab. 6 heaters at 50-100 watts each. i would like to use a >> connector for each pad lead . any suggestions for a 120 volt >> set up like this? >> > > How about knife-splices with heat-shrink covers for > harness work under the cowl. See: > > http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/ksplc2.jpg > > Bill's suggestion for a detachable line cord is sound. > You can salvage a recessed chassis mount male connector > from about any old piece of computing hardware. One > of my customers on 1K1 did the same thing. His heater > connector was accessible through the oil filler door > on top of the cowl. > > Bob . . . > Boy, it sure is hard to follow a conversation in RPN.... :-) PIDG connectors (or solder) should be good if you weatherproof the container where you join all the cables. If you want to plug in each heater to a box, I'd think about salvaging some modern under-hood automotive connectors for their moisture protection value. It's hard to believe that 120 V would be a problem on any modern insulation. A thought on the actual primary connector. It might be a good idea to use a 'standard' chassis mount or pigtail AC connector (available online or at any good electrical supply house) instead of a computer power connector, if you ever expect to pre-heat away from home. That way, most any extension cord should plug in. Unlikely that you would find a spare computer cord at the airport in East Podunk. Charlie


    Message 12


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    Time: 06:58:11 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: dual battery charging
    At 07:57 PM 12/20/2009, you wrote: >I have a dual battery system in my Glasair. Is there an easy way to >charge both battery simultaneously. I do have a Xconnect switch to >connect both systems if necessary. Could that be used to charge >both batteries at the same time? >Jim See: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Batteries/Multiple_Battery_Myths_A.pdf and figure Z-30 at: http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/Z29K_30K.pdf Bob . . .


    Message 13


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    Time: 07:03:43 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: 120 volt connectors
    At 03:41 PM 12/20/2009, you wrote: >i guess my question wasn.t clear. i am concerned about what type of >radio shack connector will be acceptable for 120 volts where each >heatpad lead connects to the ''main'' lead. i would see the ''main >lead'' wired into the ac chassis socket. "Acceptable" is a hard term to define. The concerns for any wiring that carries a lot of voltage and supplied from an energetic source (15A or better breaker) is integrity of the connections. When folks wire such devices in houses, they're either spliced permanently and independently insulated or semi-permanent connection (wire nut, screw clamp, etc) inside a suitable enclosure. The knife splices are as close as you can get to permanent and still open the joints for maintenance. Soldered splices under heat shrink would be the most "acceptable" in terms of mechanical robustness. If you're prepared to live with anything less, then about any connector in the catalog will do. Bob . . . >\




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