Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:53 AM - Re: 28v to 14v (Eric M. Jones)
2. 09:35 AM - cutting large wire (Jesse Jenks)
3. 09:55 AM - Re: cutting large wire (Ron Quillin)
4. 10:06 AM - Re: cutting large wire (Neal George)
5. 10:08 AM - Re: cutting large wire (Richard Girard)
6. 11:07 AM - Re: cutting large wire (joe motis)
7. 11:15 AM - Re: cutting large wire (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 11:52 AM - Re: cutting large wire (sharmon32)
9. 02:11 PM - Re: cutting large wire (Jesse Jenks)
10. 02:51 PM - Using a SPST switch to control both the alternator field and master contactor. (Matthew Schumacher)
11. 03:57 PM - revised Z13/8 schematic (Lincoln Keill)
12. 03:57 PM - revised Z13/8 schematic (Lincoln Keill)
13. 04:38 PM - Re: revised Z13/8 schematic (grnord)
14. 05:56 PM - Re: cutting large wire (Jim)
15. 05:59 PM - Re: Using a SPST switch to control both the alternator field and master contactor. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 06:32 PM - Re: revised Z13/8 schematic (Matt Prather)
17. 07:26 PM - Re: revised Z13/8 schematic (Bob McCallum)
18. 09:00 PM - Re: revised Z13/8 schematic (grnord)
19. 09:48 PM - Re: Re: revised Z13/8 schematic (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
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Depending on the details, you could be in more or less trouble. I still recommend
Astrodyne. The Ebay (and God I love it) supply is unlikely to have the power
required nor the noise specs.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284141#284141
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Subject: | cutting large wire |
How do I cut the big wires like #2 and #4=2C (hopefully without buying anot
her expensive tool)?
Thanks.
Jesse
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Subject: | Re: cutting large wire |
At 09:18 1/31/2010, you wrote:
>How do I cut the big wires like #2 and #4, (hopefully without buying
>another expensive tool)?
>Thanks.
>Jesse
$8 isn't too bad...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40507
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Subject: | cutting large wire |
Dremel tool or die grinder with an abrasive cut-off wheel works well.
Neal
=============
How do I cut the big wires like #2 and #4, (hopefully without buying another
expensive tool)?
Thanks.
Jesse
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Subject: | Re: cutting large wire |
A chisel and a ball peen hammer makes a nice clean cut.
Rick Girard
On Sun, Jan 31, 2010 at 11:18 AM, Jesse Jenks <jessejenks@hotmail.com>wrote:
>
> How do I cut the big wires like #2 and #4, (hopefully without buying another
expensive tool)?
> Thanks.
> Jesse
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
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Subject: | Re: cutting large wire |
Harbor freight has a cheap cable cutter for around 8 bucks.
That or wrap the cable tightly with electrical tape and a wood chisel and a
hammer on a block of wood.
Joe Motis
No archivos .
On Sun, Jan 31, 2010 at 9:18 AM, Jesse Jenks <jessejenks@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> How do I cut the big wires like #2 and #4, (hopefully without buying another
expensive tool)?
>
> Thanks.
> Jesse
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
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Subject: | Re: cutting large wire |
At 11:18 AM 1/31/2010, you wrote:
>How do I cut the big wires like #2 and #4, (hopefully without buying
>another expensive tool)?
>Thanks.
>
The most effective tools for handling big
wires will have the effect of shearing the
two pieces apart as opposed to diagonal cutters
which mash the wire between two wedges.
One suggestion of a hammer/chisel technique
is better than mash-em tools but not a whole
lot.
I have a pair of Kline cable shears that retail
for over $30 and have long enough handles to do
a good job on very large Tefzel conductors. However,
if you're committed to welding cable and nothing
larger than 2AWG, then there are a host of low
cost shears that range from $5 to $15 and perhaps
additional shipping.
Some exemplar tools found on Ebay and Harbor
Freight are illustrated here:
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Wire_Cutters/
These produce a very smooth and square end on
finely stranded welding cable or Tefzel wires.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: cutting large wire |
I would use a 4 1/2" grinder with a thin bit. It would cut a nice clean
cut. STeve
Steven W. Harmon
2446 E. 3800 N.
Filer Idaho 83328
"Lovin Life in Idaho"
Where Being poor on a farm beats being rich in the city
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Quillin
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2010 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: cutting large wire
At 09:18 1/31/2010, you wrote:
How do I cut the big wires like #2 and #4, (hopefully without buying
another expensive tool)?
Thanks.
Jesse
$8 isn't too bad...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40507
Message 9
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Subject: | cutting large wire |
Thanks guys. I was picturing a large bolt cutter type tool. This is good=2C
thanks again.
Jesse
From: nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: cutting large wire
At 11:18 AM 1/31/2010=2C you wrote:
How do I cut the big wires like #2 and
#4=2C (hopefully without buying another expensive tool)?
Thanks.
The most effective tools for handling big
wires will have the effect of shearing the
two pieces apart as opposed to diagonal cutters
which mash the wire between two wedges.
One suggestion of a hammer/chisel technique
is better than mash-em tools but not a whole
lot.
I have a pair of Kline cable shears that retail
for over $30 and have long enough handles to do
a good job on very large Tefzel conductors.
However=2C
if you're committed to welding cable and nothing
larger than 2AWG=2C then there are a host of low
cost shears that range from $5 to $15 and perhaps
additional shipping.
Some exemplar tools found on Ebay and Harbor
Freight are illustrated here:
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Wire_Cutters/
These produce a very smooth and square end on
finely stranded welding cable or Tefzel
wires.
Bob . . .
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft=92s powerful SPAM protection.
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Subject: | Using a SPST switch to control both the alternator |
field and master contactor.
List,
I have a switch that I really like that I want to use for the main
switch. It's a heavy duty switch that can handle up to 75amp, but it's
only a SPST switch.
The diagrams in the Aeroelectric connection show a DPST switch for the
master because it turns off the alternator field coil. This leads me to
ask two questions:
1. Does the field coil need to be turned off? If it's wired directly
to the main power bus then the second the master switch is turned off
the contactor isolates the main buss anyway causing the field coil to
shut down.
2. If it's harmful to have the field coil wired to the main power buss
without a way to isolate it, then can I wire my main power switch as
shown in the attached drawing? Other than a little more wire, is there
anything wrong with doing it this way?
Thanks,
schu
Message 11
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Subject: | revised Z13/8 schematic |
Bob --
Thanks for sending me the link for the drawing files. -I was able to down
load the one for Z-13/8 and figure out how to modify it using TurboCAD 2D f
or Mac. -I personalized it for my particular airplane (an RV-7A with one
magneto and one electronic ignition) which was a very good exercise to go t
hrough...it generated a lot of questions, most of which I was able to get a
nswers to. -I changed the SD-8 wiring to comply with the installation ins
tructions from B&C (I understand that I will not have the "self-starting" f
eature discussed in the AEC) but I don't understand why the circuit protect
ion (the 2A breaker) comes downstream of the AUX ALT switch -- doesn't the
switch always follow the protection? -Perhaps with short wire runs it doe
sn't matter. -I also changed the starter/ignition circuits to comply with
Z-27, moved some of the wire termination points and signified the wires th
at will have to pass through the firewall.
I'm attaching a relatively small .pdf file of my revised Z-13/8 drawing (I
know there's a worry about bogging down the Matronics servers) -- it's only
620 KB which is well under the 1MB limit -- and I know there's probably a
lot of RV builders that will utilize Z-13/8. -This version might help the
m as they begin to visualize where all the electrical components get locate
d. -If anyone wants to review it and offer feedback that would be very mu
ch appreciated as well. -Thanks again Bob.
Lincoln KeillRV-7A-
Message 12
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Subject: | revised Z13/8 schematic |
Bob --
Thanks for sending me the link for the drawing files. -I was able to down
load the one for Z-13/8 and figure out how to modify it using TurboCAD 2D f
or Mac. -I personalized it for my particular airplane (an RV-7A with one
magneto and one electronic ignition) which was a very good exercise to go t
hrough...it generated a lot of questions, most of which I was able to get a
nswers to. -I changed the SD-8 wiring to comply with the installation ins
tructions from B&C (I understand that I will not have the "self-starting" f
eature discussed in the AEC) but I don't understand why the circuit protect
ion (the 2A breaker) comes downstream of the AUX ALT switch -- doesn't the
switch always follow the protection? -Perhaps with short wire runs it doe
sn't matter. -I also changed the starter/ignition circuits to comply with
Z-27, moved some of the wire termination points and signified the wires th
at will have to pass through the firewall.
I'm attaching a relatively small .pdf file of my revised Z-13/8 drawing (I
know there's a worry about bogging down the Matronics servers) -- it's only
620 KB which is well under the 1MB limit -- and I know there's probably a
lot of RV builders that will utilize Z-13/8. -This version might help the
m as they begin to visualize where all the electrical components get locate
d. -If anyone wants to review it and offer feedback that would be very mu
ch appreciated as well. -Thanks again Bob.
Lincoln KeillRV-7A-
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: revised Z13/8 schematic |
The aux alternator won't ever work: the OV disconnect relay has no power source
and it's grounded at both ends when the switch is closed. Other than that I
don't see any glitches.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284252#284252
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: cutting large wire |
I went with the Dremel tool suggestion. I also cut the fuel and oil lines
with the Dremel after putting a few wraps of masking tape around the areas
to be marked and cut.
Jim in Kelowna RV6-A C-GIIG For sale (no license)
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Jenks
To: aeroelectric-list=40matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2010 2:03 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: cutting large wire
Thanks guys. I was picturing a large bolt cutter type tool. This is
good, thanks again.
Jesse
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2010 13:12:06 -0600
To: aeroelectric-list=40matronics.com
From: nuckolls.bob=40aeroelectric.com
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: cutting large wire
At 11:18 AM 1/31/2010, you wrote:
How do I cut the big wires like =232 and=234, (hopefully without buying
another expensive tool)?Thanks.
The most effective tools for handling big
wires will have the effect of shearing the
two pieces apart as opposed to diagonal cutters
which mash the wire between two wedges.
One suggestion of a hammer/chisel technique
is better than mash-em tools but not a whole
lot.
I have a pair of Kline cable shears that retail
for over =2430 and have long enough handles to do
a good job on very large Tefzel conductors. However,
if you're committed to welding cable and nothing
larger than 2AWG, then there are a host of low
cost shears that range from =245 to =2415 and perhaps
additional shipping.
Some exemplar tools found on Ebay and Harbor
Freight are illustrated here:
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Wire_Cutters/
These produce a very smooth and square end on
finely stranded welding cable or Tefzel wires.
Bob . . .
http://www.matro; http://forums.matronics.comgt;
http://www.matronic==================
=
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Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Using a SPST switch to control both the alternator |
field and master contactor.
At 04:41 PM 1/31/2010, you wrote:
List,
I have a switch that I really like that I want to use for the main
switch. It's a heavy duty switch that can handle up to 75amp, but it's
only a SPST switch.
What kind of airplane/engine? Where is your battery located
with respect to the proposed location for the battery master
switch?
The diagrams in the Aeroelectric connection show a DPST switch for the
master because it turns off the alternator field coil. This leads me to
ask two questions:
1. Does the field coil need to be turned off?
It's customary in type certificated aircraft to have one
switch that controls DC power for all sources. I.e., a MASTER
switch.
If it's wired directly to the main power bus then the second the
master switch is turned off the contactor isolates the main buss
anyway causing the field coil to shut down.
No. Alternators can . . . and often do continue to run
"self-excited" unless you break the field supply lead
(or open the ON/OFF command lead for internally regulated
alternators).
2. If it's harmful to have the field coil wired to the main power buss
without a way to isolate it, then can I wire my main power switch as
shown in the attached drawing? Other than a little more wire, is there
anything wrong with doing it this way?
I didn't see an drawing come through as an attachment.
If it's your intention to replace a battery contactor with
a manually operated switch (common to many aircraft back
in the 40's and 50's) then you need a separate alternator
control switch. In this configuration, you don't have a
MASTER switch and both switches need to be opened to kill
the system.
The subject of your note does raise a question . . . do
you plan to use a battery contactor or is the 75A rated
switch intended to be the replacement for a battery
contactor?
Bob . . .
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: revised Z13/8 schematic |
The breaker isn't there so much to protect the wire.. It works as part of
the crowbar overvoltage protection. If the overvoltage module detects the
correct conditions, it works by firing an SCR which shorts across the coil
of the disconnect relay, which also shorts the feed to the coil. This
causes the breaker to open and keeps the alternator relay open and the
alternator off line until the breaker is reset.
Regards,
Matt-
> Bob --
> Thanks for sending me the link for the drawing files. I was able to
> download the one for Z-13/8 and figure out how to modify it using TurboCAD
> 2D for Mac. I personalized it for my particular airplane (an RV-7A with
> one magneto and one electronic ignition) which was a very good exercise to
> go through...it generated a lot of questions, most of which I was able to
> get answers to. I changed the SD-8 wiring to comply with the installation
> instructions from B&C (I understand that I will not have the
> "self-starting" feature discussed in the AEC) but I don't understand why
> the circuit protection (the 2A breaker) comes downstream of the AUX ALT
> switch -- doesn't the switch always follow the protection? Perhaps with
> short wire runs it doesn't matter. I also changed the starter/ignition
> circuits to comply with Z-27, moved some of the wire termination points
> and signified the wires that will have to pass through the firewall.
> I'm attaching a relatively small .pdf file of my revised Z-13/8 drawing (I
> know there's a worry about bogging down the Matronics servers) -- it's
> only 620 KB which is well under the 1MB limit -- and I know there's
> probably a lot of RV builders that will utilize Z-13/8. This version
> might help them as they begin to visualize where all the electrical
> components get located. If anyone wants to review it and offer feedback
> that would be very much appreciated as well. Thanks again Bob.
> Lincoln KeillRV-7A
Message 17
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Subject: | revised Z13/8 schematic |
Lincoln;
You express concern about bandwidth, yet posted the identical message twice.
<http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZNxpt484YYCA> Yellow Orange
(I know --- it happens)
<http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZNxpt484YYCA> Yellow Orange
The S704-1 controlling the Aux Alt has both ends of the coil grounded.
Therefore won't work.
The battery contactor is drawn with the coil shorted. Closing the master
will smoke some wires.
The E-bus alt feed relay is drawn with the coil shorted. Closing the E-bus
alternate feed switch will blow the 15A fuse.
The shorts on the above relay coils seem to be labeled as two different
diode models. If the intention was that these shorts are diodes, why two
different ones? Using one model of diode simplifies things slightly.
Bob McC
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lincoln
Keill
Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2010 6:42 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: revised Z13/8 schematic
Bob --
Thanks for sending me the link for the drawing files
----Big snip---
If anyone wants to review it and offer feedback that would be very much
appreciated as well. Thanks again Bob.
Lincoln Keill
RV-7A
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Subject: | Re: revised Z13/8 schematic |
Bob McC,
The OP's schematic has diode numbers near the "shorts" but no diode symbols
there because of a file-transfer problem the OP apparently didn't notice (it
took me a while to notice when it first happened to me): when copying a file from
the AeroElectric site to one's own drafting system, the diode symbols may
not make the trip; dunno why not, and dunno if it happens with all drafting software...
The diode numbers are as printed in Z-13/8 so Mr. Nuckolls would be
the one to say why they're different. I've noticed that, too, but haven't asked
yet.
Rick Nordgarden
Council Bluffs IA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284300#284300
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Subject: | Re: revised Z13/8 schematic |
At 10:52 PM 1/31/2010, you wrote:
Bob McC,
The OP's schematic has diode numbers near the "shorts" but no
diode symbols there because of a file-transfer problem the OP
apparently didn't notice (it took me a while to notice when it first
happened to me): when copying a file from the AeroElectric site to
one's own drafting system, the diode symbols may not make the trip;
dunno why not, and dunno if it happens with all drafting software...
Porting work product to other CAD systems can
be problematic. In the BIG world we use standardized
file transfer prototcols like Step Files and IGES.
But even these multi-killobuck systems will stub
their toe from time to time.
Just for grins, I've posted Z-18/8Q as a .dxf file
here . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/ACAD_Architecture_Dwgs/Z13-8Q.dxf
See your TurboCAD will suck this in any cleaner.
.DXF is a very rudimentary file transfer system that
converts every entity into pen-strokes. Text and symbols
are a series of lines and arcs.
The diode numbers are as printed in Z-13/8 so Mr. Nuckolls would
be the one to say why they're different. I've noticed that, too, but
haven't asked yet.
The diodes are very NON critical. The 1N4000 series
are nice because they're small, the IN5400 series
handy because they're mechanically robust. Either
works fine . . . as would any other part number with
a 50V or greater rating.
Bob . . .
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