Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:56 AM - Help with an BMA EFIS/One question (Richard E. Tasker)
2. 01:08 PM - Re: Figure Z? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 01:13 PM - Solid State Contactors -- SuperSwitch? (Valin & Allyson Thorn)
4. 03:40 PM - Re: Solid State Contactors -- SuperSwitch? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 04:42 PM - Voltage gauge question (Steve Hamer)
6. 05:36 PM - Re: Voltage gauge question (ROGER & JEAN CURTIS)
7. 09:10 PM - Re: Voltage gauge question (Steve Hamer)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Help with an BMA EFIS/One question |
I have a BMA EFIS/One G3 gold box. My plane is to the point where I have started
checking out the avionics interconnections. I have the EFIS connected to my
SL30 and to my Trutrak autopilot. The
Trutrak was not communicating so I opened the EFIS/One up to take a look. I discovered
that the additional serial ports, one of which is connected to the Trutrak
and which I assumed were a standard
part of the EFIS/One, are not there. Contacting "alumni" from BMA indicates that
the serial ports were an option - which I didn't request since I didn't know
they were optional.
In any case, the ports were on a standard PC104 quad serial port board which I
could easily add to my system if I only knew what board it was and what settings
on the board.
So far no one with any involvement with BMA has been able to help me identify the
board.
So my questions are:
Is there any one who has an EFIS/One G3 with the serial port option that could
open their box and either take a picture of each side of the top (approx 3.5"x3.5")
board or let me know of any
manufacturing numbers on the board?
Or, is there anyone with this EFIS that has the serial ports, is not using the
extra serial ports (ports 2-5) and would be interested in selling me the serial
port board? Or, if the price is right,
the entire G3.
And for those of you who are not aware, there is someone on the BMA forums that
is currently working to get regular chart updates going again (with Greg's blessing).
The plan is for them to be even
cheaper than when BMA was supplying them since the charts will be generated directly
from the feds database, rather than through Jeppeson as a middleman. Not
that the difference in cost is really a
big deal if charts are available again!
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Dick Tasker
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Message 2
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> What Z wiring diagram fits this engine?
Z-19 is a best fit for electrically dependent engines
with only one alternator.
>
>The chapter on batteries suggests an Odyssey PC680 battery. In
>doing research on this battery, it seems to be indicated for a
>motorcycle engine. Would it provide enough cranking power?
The 680 is PLENTY . . . but you may want to consider
two batteries for alternator-out operations. One for
the engine, one for everything else.
Do you have a load analysis? I.e. a listing of all
electrical accessories and what their current demands
are for normal operations?
>
>In reading, many times it suggested that grounding the engine should
>be done through the engine pan. Is there a reason why the engine
>pan is used VS gounding directly to the engine block?
Don't know why anyone would do that. The most substantial
bolt to the block that is not TORQUE sensitive is the
best place to get a robust electrical connection to
the engine.
>The Zenith 801 is a bush plane. My goal in finishing the plane is
>to keep it as light as possible. Over the last several months I
>have "listened" in on the discussion of fuses vs breakers and
>whether a transponder is needed.
Breakers vs. fuses are a rather small weight trade off.
Especially if your failure mode effects analysis suggests
that two batteries are called for. Transponders are only
useful if somebody on the ground (1) can even see you
on radar and (2) give a rat's you know what where you
are.
>Basically, I believe what a person really needs is a list of parts
>needed to wire a panel and where they can be purchased. There were
>good suggestions on fuse blocks and cup holders, but many things are
>missing. I guess it first begins with which Z diagram I need to use
>and then, I can go from there.
First you need to quantify the total energy budget
for (1) normal operations and then (2) an austere budget
for alternator out operations. Finally, decide what your
personal design goals are for alternator out endurance.
If you've got big fuel tanks then perhaps your batteries
need to be commensurately big too.
>I have studied Spanish for thirty years, and can do well. However,
>if we had a discussion on auto parts in Spanish, I would be
>lost. In reading your discussions on many issues, I feel like the
>kid who can tell you, "Where is the bathroom" in spanish, but is
>lost when asked to say more. As a read more and more, I catch a
>little more. However, there is a large void to fill.
That's what we're here for. Let's discover whether
a D8 Cat is needed . . . or you can shovel enough electrons
around with a garden tractor. Also, how many yards
of dirt do you need to move? This energy management
thing is a function of TIME, LOADS and under what
conditions those loads must be functioning for you
go get on the ground comfortably with a dead alternator.
If you're flying day-vfr kinds of missions perhaps
your energy requirements are modest . . . won't know
until you list them and add 'em all up.
Finding all the bits and pieces to wire it up is
the stone simple part.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Solid State Contactors -- SuperSwitch? |
Hello,
Has anyone had experience with the solid state contactors from Lamar
Technologies they call a SuperSwitch? See this Aircraft Spruce link for
info:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/superSwitch.php
I know they're expensive - but, we're already in that category of contactor
with the need for 28V high continuous current contactors (100 A alternator,
all electric A/C). We already have very nice Blue Sea high capacity
contactors that are hermetically sealed (~$150 each). They weigh about a
pound each, though, and the significant weight savings with these solid
state contactors looks good.
I'd appreciate comments and advice.
Thanks,
Valin Thorn
Legacy
Houston, TX USA
cid:image001.jpg@01CAB316.6FD47F10
cid:image002.png@01CAB316.6FD47F10
Exerpt of info on web link:
Features
* Up to 66% lighter weight
* 99% more reliable
* 5 to 44 volt operating range
* Replaces all mechanical contactors
* Solid state technology
* No moving parts
* Up to 600 amps momentary operation
* Up to 100 amps continuous
* Negative or positive turn on
Specifications
* Input: Input control current 5 to 44 volts
* Output: Operating DC voltage range 0 to 44 volts
* Maximum continuous current 100 amps
* Maximum surge current (IDM) - .1mS: 1200
* Ambient operating temperature range: -40 C to 85 C
* Weight: Uni-directional .3 lbs
* Bi-directional .5 lbs
* Encapsulation: Potting or conformal coating
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Solid State Contactors -- SuperSwitch? |
At 03:04 PM 3/6/2010, you wrote:
>Hello,
>
>Has anyone had experience with the solid state
>contactors from Lamar Technologies they call a
>SuperSwitch? See this Aircraft Spruce link for info:
>
><http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/superSwitch.php>http://www.a
ircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/superSwitch.php
>
>I know they=92re expensive ' but, we=92re already in
>that category of contactor with the need for 28V
>high continuous current contactors (100 A
>alternator, all electric A/C). We already have
>very nice Blue Sea high capacity contactors that
>are hermetically sealed (~$150 each). They
>weigh about a pound each, though, and the
>significant weight savings with these solid state contactors looks good.
>
>I=92d appreciate comments and advice.
This same question came up a few years ago
http://www.matronics.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=26571
I'd not heard of them at that time. I did write to Lamar
asking for an engineering data package that would help
me evaluate the potential for incorporation onto TC
aircraft. As I recall, I got an answer from somebody
in sales who promised to forward my request to the
right individual.
Never heard back and I guess it slipped my mind.
I just did an advanced search on "superswitch"
limited to http://www.lamartech.com/ and the
search engines did not return a hit. Did anohter
search on "07-01283" and "lamar". Got hits on
Aircraft Spruce and Skyshop in Australia.
Searched the whole constellation of matronics forums
and got two hits . . . THIS thread and the one I
cited above from some years ago. So I guess
the short answer is, haven't got a clue as to
how good the product is (although Lamar is
usually a low risk choice for other things).
It doesn't appear that they've made much of
a splash in the marketplace.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Voltage gauge question |
I have an Electronics International Volts/Amp gauge in my RV-6. It was
working fine till I decided to "fix" what I thought was too small of
wire through the E-Buss switch circuit. I'm wired per figure Z-11 and
the Voltage gauge is powered off of the E-Buss.
Here's what's happening. With the master on, the voltage reads 11.4
(through the diode). When I turn on the E-Buss switch, voltage goes to
12.1. With just the E-Buss on and the master off, voltage reads zero.
It didn't do this before I "fixed" it. What have I done?
Thanks,
Steve Hamer
Message 6
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| Subject: | Voltage gauge question |
I have an Electronics International Volts/Amp gauge in my RV-6. It was
working fine till I decided to "fix" what I thought was too small of wire
through the E-Buss switch circuit. I'm wired per figure Z-11 and the
Voltage gauge is powered off of the E-Buss.
Here's what's happening. With the master on, the voltage reads 11.4
(through the diode). When I turn on the E-Buss switch, voltage goes to
12.1. With just the E-Buss on and the master off, voltage reads zero. It
didn't do this before I "fixed" it. What have I done?
Steve Hamer
What did it do before you fixed it?
Roger
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Voltage gauge question |
Before I fixed it, with the E-Buss on and the master off, the voltage
was around 11.7. This seemed too low so I figured the wire in that
circuit might be too small so I increased it slightly. That's the only
change. If I put my multimeter on the the voltage meter connection with
the E-buss only on, it reads 12.3 while the gauge reads 0.
Steve
What did it do before you fixed it? Roger
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