---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 03/06/10: 7 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 10:56 AM - Help with an BMA EFIS/One question (Richard E. Tasker) 2. 01:08 PM - Re: Figure Z? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 3. 01:13 PM - Solid State Contactors -- SuperSwitch? (Valin & Allyson Thorn) 4. 03:40 PM - Re: Solid State Contactors -- SuperSwitch? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 5. 04:42 PM - Voltage gauge question (Steve Hamer) 6. 05:36 PM - Re: Voltage gauge question (ROGER & JEAN CURTIS) 7. 09:10 PM - Re: Voltage gauge question (Steve Hamer) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 10:56:08 AM PST US From: "Richard E. Tasker" Subject: AeroElectric-List: Help with an BMA EFIS/One question I have a BMA EFIS/One G3 gold box. My plane is to the point where I have started checking out the avionics interconnections. I have the EFIS connected to my SL30 and to my Trutrak autopilot. The Trutrak was not communicating so I opened the EFIS/One up to take a look. I discovered that the additional serial ports, one of which is connected to the Trutrak and which I assumed were a standard part of the EFIS/One, are not there. Contacting "alumni" from BMA indicates that the serial ports were an option - which I didn't request since I didn't know they were optional. In any case, the ports were on a standard PC104 quad serial port board which I could easily add to my system if I only knew what board it was and what settings on the board. So far no one with any involvement with BMA has been able to help me identify the board. So my questions are: Is there any one who has an EFIS/One G3 with the serial port option that could open their box and either take a picture of each side of the top (approx 3.5"x3.5") board or let me know of any manufacturing numbers on the board? Or, is there anyone with this EFIS that has the serial ports, is not using the extra serial ports (ports 2-5) and would be interested in selling me the serial port board? Or, if the price is right, the entire G3. And for those of you who are not aware, there is someone on the BMA forums that is currently working to get regular chart updates going again (with Greg's blessing). The plan is for them to be even cheaper than when BMA was supplying them since the charts will be generated directly from the feds database, rather than through Jeppeson as a middleman. Not that the difference in cost is really a big deal if charts are available again! Thanks for any help you can offer. Dick Tasker -- Please Note: No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however, that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced. -- ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 01:08:16 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Figure Z? > What Z wiring diagram fits this engine? Z-19 is a best fit for electrically dependent engines with only one alternator. > >The chapter on batteries suggests an Odyssey PC680 battery. In >doing research on this battery, it seems to be indicated for a >motorcycle engine. Would it provide enough cranking power? The 680 is PLENTY . . . but you may want to consider two batteries for alternator-out operations. One for the engine, one for everything else. Do you have a load analysis? I.e. a listing of all electrical accessories and what their current demands are for normal operations? > >In reading, many times it suggested that grounding the engine should >be done through the engine pan. Is there a reason why the engine >pan is used VS gounding directly to the engine block? Don't know why anyone would do that. The most substantial bolt to the block that is not TORQUE sensitive is the best place to get a robust electrical connection to the engine. >The Zenith 801 is a bush plane. My goal in finishing the plane is >to keep it as light as possible. Over the last several months I >have "listened" in on the discussion of fuses vs breakers and >whether a transponder is needed. Breakers vs. fuses are a rather small weight trade off. Especially if your failure mode effects analysis suggests that two batteries are called for. Transponders are only useful if somebody on the ground (1) can even see you on radar and (2) give a rat's you know what where you are. >Basically, I believe what a person really needs is a list of parts >needed to wire a panel and where they can be purchased. There were >good suggestions on fuse blocks and cup holders, but many things are >missing. I guess it first begins with which Z diagram I need to use >and then, I can go from there. First you need to quantify the total energy budget for (1) normal operations and then (2) an austere budget for alternator out operations. Finally, decide what your personal design goals are for alternator out endurance. If you've got big fuel tanks then perhaps your batteries need to be commensurately big too. >I have studied Spanish for thirty years, and can do well. However, >if we had a discussion on auto parts in Spanish, I would be >lost. In reading your discussions on many issues, I feel like the >kid who can tell you, "Where is the bathroom" in spanish, but is >lost when asked to say more. As a read more and more, I catch a >little more. However, there is a large void to fill. That's what we're here for. Let's discover whether a D8 Cat is needed . . . or you can shovel enough electrons around with a garden tractor. Also, how many yards of dirt do you need to move? This energy management thing is a function of TIME, LOADS and under what conditions those loads must be functioning for you go get on the ground comfortably with a dead alternator. If you're flying day-vfr kinds of missions perhaps your energy requirements are modest . . . won't know until you list them and add 'em all up. Finding all the bits and pieces to wire it up is the stone simple part. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 01:13:46 PM PST US From: "Valin & Allyson Thorn" Subject: AeroElectric-List: Solid State Contactors -- SuperSwitch? Hello, Has anyone had experience with the solid state contactors from Lamar Technologies they call a SuperSwitch? See this Aircraft Spruce link for info: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/superSwitch.php I know they're expensive - but, we're already in that category of contactor with the need for 28V high continuous current contactors (100 A alternator, all electric A/C). We already have very nice Blue Sea high capacity contactors that are hermetically sealed (~$150 each). They weigh about a pound each, though, and the significant weight savings with these solid state contactors looks good. I'd appreciate comments and advice. Thanks, Valin Thorn Legacy Houston, TX USA cid:image001.jpg@01CAB316.6FD47F10 cid:image002.png@01CAB316.6FD47F10 Exerpt of info on web link: Features * Up to 66% lighter weight * 99% more reliable * 5 to 44 volt operating range * Replaces all mechanical contactors * Solid state technology * No moving parts * Up to 600 amps momentary operation * Up to 100 amps continuous * Negative or positive turn on Specifications * Input: Input control current 5 to 44 volts * Output: Operating DC voltage range 0 to 44 volts * Maximum continuous current 100 amps * Maximum surge current (IDM) - .1mS: 1200 * Ambient operating temperature range: -40 C to 85 C * Weight: Uni-directional .3 lbs * Bi-directional .5 lbs * Encapsulation: Potting or conformal coating ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 03:40:33 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Solid State Contactors -- SuperSwitch? At 03:04 PM 3/6/2010, you wrote: >Hello, > >Has anyone had experience with the solid state >contactors from Lamar Technologies they call a >SuperSwitch? See this Aircraft Spruce link for info: > >http://www.a ircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/superSwitch.php > >I know they=92re expensive ' but, we=92re already in >that category of contactor with the need for 28V >high continuous current contactors (100 A >alternator, all electric A/C). We already have >very nice Blue Sea high capacity contactors that >are hermetically sealed (~$150 each). They >weigh about a pound each, though, and the >significant weight savings with these solid state contactors looks good. > >I=92d appreciate comments and advice. This same question came up a few years ago http://www.matronics.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=26571 I'd not heard of them at that time. I did write to Lamar asking for an engineering data package that would help me evaluate the potential for incorporation onto TC aircraft. As I recall, I got an answer from somebody in sales who promised to forward my request to the right individual. Never heard back and I guess it slipped my mind. I just did an advanced search on "superswitch" limited to http://www.lamartech.com/ and the search engines did not return a hit. Did anohter search on "07-01283" and "lamar". Got hits on Aircraft Spruce and Skyshop in Australia. Searched the whole constellation of matronics forums and got two hits . . . THIS thread and the one I cited above from some years ago. So I guess the short answer is, haven't got a clue as to how good the product is (although Lamar is usually a low risk choice for other things). It doesn't appear that they've made much of a splash in the marketplace. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 04:42:13 PM PST US From: "Steve Hamer" Subject: AeroElectric-List: Voltage gauge question I have an Electronics International Volts/Amp gauge in my RV-6. It was working fine till I decided to "fix" what I thought was too small of wire through the E-Buss switch circuit. I'm wired per figure Z-11 and the Voltage gauge is powered off of the E-Buss. Here's what's happening. With the master on, the voltage reads 11.4 (through the diode). When I turn on the E-Buss switch, voltage goes to 12.1. With just the E-Buss on and the master off, voltage reads zero. It didn't do this before I "fixed" it. What have I done? Thanks, Steve Hamer ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 05:36:47 PM PST US From: "ROGER & JEAN CURTIS" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Voltage gauge question I have an Electronics International Volts/Amp gauge in my RV-6. It was working fine till I decided to "fix" what I thought was too small of wire through the E-Buss switch circuit. I'm wired per figure Z-11 and the Voltage gauge is powered off of the E-Buss. Here's what's happening. With the master on, the voltage reads 11.4 (through the diode). When I turn on the E-Buss switch, voltage goes to 12.1. With just the E-Buss on and the master off, voltage reads zero. It didn't do this before I "fixed" it. What have I done? Steve Hamer What did it do before you fixed it? Roger ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 09:10:42 PM PST US From: "Steve Hamer" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Voltage gauge question Before I fixed it, with the E-Buss on and the master off, the voltage was around 11.7. This seemed too low so I figured the wire in that circuit might be too small so I increased it slightly. That's the only change. If I put my multimeter on the the voltage meter connection with the E-buss only on, it reads 12.3 while the gauge reads 0. Steve What did it do before you fixed it? 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