AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Fri 03/19/10


Total Messages Posted: 7



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 01:22 AM - Re: Drilling holes for toggle switches? (joseparc@aol.com)
     2. 01:22 AM - Re: Drilling holes for toggle switches? (Bill Schertz)
     3. 02:27 AM - Re: Drilling holes for toggle switches? (donjohnston)
     4. 05:55 AM - Re: Re: Drilling holes for toggle switches? (Dan Brown)
     5. 06:06 AM - Re: Schumacher for battery maintenance, vote now! (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     6. 06:13 AM - Re: Re: Drilling holes for toggle switches? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     7. 08:04 PM - Drilling holes for toggle switches (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 01:22:24 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Drilling holes for toggle switches?
    From: joseparc@aol.com
    Punch and die. Try drilling a close fit round hole and deform the metal edge with hammer and pointed punch,, where you want the key way to be, ju st enough to prevent the switch from rotating. Joe -----Original Message----- From: donjohnston <don@numa.aero> Sent: Thu, Mar 18, 2010 7:57 pm Subject: AeroElectric-List: Drilling holes for toggle switches? When drilling holes for standard style toggle switches, what is the common method for creating a hole with the keyway? Or do you just use a round hole and not worry about the keyway? -Don Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290804#290804 ======================== =========== ======================== =========== ======================== =========== ======================== ===========


    Message 2


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    Time: 01:22:29 AM PST US
    From: "Bill Schertz" <wschertz@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Drilling holes for toggle switches?
    Drill a round hole for the switch, and a smaller hole above it for the tang on the washers that have the keyway to prevent rotation. The small hole doesn't need to go all the way through the panel (from the backside) Bill Schertz KIS Cruiser #4045 N343BS Phase I testing -------------------------------------------------- From: "donjohnston" <don@numa.aero> Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 7:57 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Drilling holes for toggle switches? > > When drilling holes for standard style toggle switches, what is the common > method for creating a hole with the keyway? > > Or do you just use a round hole and not worry about the keyway? > > -Don > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290804#290804 > > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 02:27:59 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Drilling holes for toggle switches?
    From: "donjohnston" <don@numa.aero>
    > Drill a round hole for the switch, and a smaller hole above it for the tang on the washers that have the keyway to prevent rotation. Sorry. Bad description on my part. The switch has the keyway. So a hole with a tab (or tang) is needed. -Don Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290852#290852


    Message 4


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    Time: 05:55:23 AM PST US
    From: Dan Brown <dan@familybrown.org>
    Subject: Re: Drilling holes for toggle switches?
    -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- Hash: SHA1 On 3/19/10 4:20 AM, donjohnston wrote: > Sorry. Bad description on my part. The switch has the keyway. So a > hole with a tab (or tang) is needed. Yes, the switch has the keyway, but most such switches come with a keyed washer which has another tang on the OD. That tang is bent, to fit into a hole on the panel that will prevent rotation. -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: GnuPG/MacGPG2 v2.0.14 (Darwin) Comment: Using GnuPG with Mozilla - http://enigmail.mozdev.org/ iQEcBAEBAgAGBQJLo24tAAoJEOnu5cZehEEuRQUH/1B9nGg836/eQ6FuJ+ylzhyi vaEueM0h4acTOVgzHTe3K122aAoXGiwMTOnPqtBzIXSCczZ8wRIBY/QKkIUbqsOV UsMB+d8kt+aNPqRfkSMhEzk6qNDwcybiZOJ7G5l8fEm5TmJb5OirWy0cMdoI/gLr Zfd6XrFszQNHodlLHrMo7UMCTaEMnJeYGyVIiPgxNoA2NfjGQa4qIKGyYqY65SK0 CIkL0s+hSbTfk84u1aVNqRycsJ/dKP9izxRFZTUERXabrWj6qP3Abxj6K8fEBFyq XG4HVwBF+P0c1R5qRkW+KNmo0mGnxzpoZOYgr2b6OGj6DChIqmpdO7ehKPGGM5I =pD1y -----END PGP SIGNATURE-----


    Message 5


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    Time: 06:06:19 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Schumacher for battery maintenance, vote now!
    At 11:06 AM 3/18/2010, you wrote: I have 4 of those maintainers. Use on one flooded and the rest are AGM. I have never seen more that 14.1 at the batt terminals with the thing connected. The batts spend most of the time at 13.1. Suggest you get a proper meter and measure again. I went thru two Radio Shack meters before buying a good meter. Turns out teh Harbor Freight 3.99 one is as good as you will get for a batter volt meter. Your experience may differ? PW Those instruments are a good value. Compared to my first purchase of a multimeter in 1961 (spent about $65 on a Triplett 630 . . . a week's take home pay for my new job at Boeing), about any digital instrument is more accurate and they're exceedingly inexpensive compared to 1961! I've only had two of the 1562 maintainers and one of them was given away a couple years ago. I did a plot of output voltage for the recharge of a battery on one of them and got this curve: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/schumacher_3.jpg Not all charger/maintainers are equal. Even amongst the Schumacher products, there are considerable variations depending on model. See: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/ Behaviors for several Schumacher products are plotted there. We don't know why they all differ but we DO know that putting any RG battery on a constant "recharge" voltage or "trickle" charge current will kill it over time. If you see anything that looks like a "top off" behavior followed by an extended period of "relaxation" where the voltage drops below 14 volts, there is a strong likelihood that the device is doing good things for your RG battery. Bob . . . ========= At 06:11 AM 3/18/2010, Radioflyer wrote: After several postings here about how this is the best no-nonsense maintainer for Pb-acid chemistry I got myself one from Walmart. Model SEM 1562A. I put it on an Odyssey PC625 and checked the voltages. The unit was charging at 15.6V. After 3 hrs, the float charge kicked in, hovering around 14.6 volts. Later I believe I found a review on Amazon from somebody who measured about the same voltages. Don't know that I would call it "the best". I have no first-hand knowledge or criteria by which I could make such a pronouncement. What we DO know is that all the time our engine is running and the alternator is ON, the battery is being recharged in a manner that is slightly abusive but necessary. The duration of this "abuse" is no greater than the many examples of charger/maintainer performance. Further, time the airplane is parked with NOTHING turned on is very high compared to time the airplane is being flown. Hence, we see reasonably long lives from otherwise ignored batteries be they flooded or something more modern. So whether your particular maintainer relaxes to 14.0 or something smaller is not terribly critical. The fact that it tops-off first and relaxes at all is 95% of the task. Bob . . .


    Message 6


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    Time: 06:13:41 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Drilling holes for toggle switches?
    On 3/19/10 4:20 AM, donjohnston wrote: > Sorry. Bad description on my part. The switch has the keyway. So a > hole with a tab (or tang) is needed. Yes, the switch has the keyway, but most such switches come with a keyed washer which has another tang on the OD. That tang is bent, to fit into a hole on the panel that will prevent rotation. Correct. Back when we were selling switches . . . http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Switches/switch2.jpg We shipped them with the key-way washers installed. That's how they were shipped to us. The handiest way to use these washers is to install them on the BACK side of the panel with the panel tab facing aft. You can drill a hole all the way through the panel to accept the panel-tab if your hole is covered later with a plastic engraved overlay. If your design calls for putting switch labels down directly onto panel structure, the drill the panel tab holy only a few thousanths deep and sand off the tab a bit before installation. Also, you can take the panel tap off completely and bond the washer to the back side of the panel. Use a switch to fixture the washer behind the hole while the bonding sets up. Bob . . .


    Message 7


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    Time: 08:04:45 PM PST US
    From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
    Subject: Drilling holes for toggle switches
    I put essential bus and main bus switches in long lines on either side of the lower panel Don. Then, I connected the hot sides together with B&C brass bus bars (screw terminals on breakers/switches). Since all the holes were drilled in a line and connected all switches together there is no way they can twist in the hole. Just an idea, if you are not putting more than one switch on a line of holes this or course will not work..... Good luck Dean Psiropoulos RV-6A N197DM Flying/finishing upholstery and wheel pants __________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Subject: AeroElectric-List: Drilling holes for toggle switches? From: "donjohnston" <don@numa.aero> When drilling holes for standard style toggle switches, what is the common methodfor creating a hole with the keyway? Or do you just use a round hole and not worry about the keyway? -Don




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