Today's Message Index:
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1. 01:22 AM - Re: Drilling holes for toggle switches? (joseparc@aol.com)
2. 01:22 AM - Re: Drilling holes for toggle switches? (Bill Schertz)
3. 02:27 AM - Re: Drilling holes for toggle switches? (donjohnston)
4. 05:55 AM - Re: Re: Drilling holes for toggle switches? (Dan Brown)
5. 06:06 AM - Re: Schumacher for battery maintenance, vote now! (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 06:13 AM - Re: Re: Drilling holes for toggle switches? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 08:04 PM - Drilling holes for toggle switches (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
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Subject: | Re: Drilling holes for toggle switches? |
Punch and die. Try drilling a close fit round hole and deform the metal
edge with hammer and pointed punch,, where you want the key way to be, ju
st enough to prevent the switch from rotating.
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: donjohnston <don@numa.aero>
Sent: Thu, Mar 18, 2010 7:57 pm
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Drilling holes for toggle switches?
When drilling holes for standard style toggle switches, what is the common
method for creating a hole with the keyway?
Or do you just use a round hole and not worry about the keyway?
-Don
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290804#290804
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Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Drilling holes for toggle switches? |
Drill a round hole for the switch, and a smaller hole above it for the tang
on the washers that have the keyway to prevent rotation. The small hole
doesn't need to go all the way through the panel (from the backside)
Bill Schertz
KIS Cruiser #4045
N343BS
Phase I testing
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From: "donjohnston" <don@numa.aero>
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 7:57 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Drilling holes for toggle switches?
>
> When drilling holes for standard style toggle switches, what is the common
> method for creating a hole with the keyway?
>
> Or do you just use a round hole and not worry about the keyway?
>
> -Don
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290804#290804
>
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Drilling holes for toggle switches? |
> Drill a round hole for the switch, and a smaller hole above it for the tang on
the washers that have the keyway to prevent rotation.
Sorry. Bad description on my part. The switch has the keyway. So a hole with a
tab (or tang) is needed.
-Don
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290852#290852
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Subject: | Re: Drilling holes for toggle switches? |
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On 3/19/10 4:20 AM, donjohnston wrote:
> Sorry. Bad description on my part. The switch has the keyway. So a
> hole with a tab (or tang) is needed.
Yes, the switch has the keyway, but most such switches come with a keyed
washer which has another tang on the OD. That tang is bent, to fit into
a hole on the panel that will prevent rotation.
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Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Schumacher for battery maintenance, vote now! |
At 11:06 AM 3/18/2010, you wrote:
I have 4 of those maintainers. Use on one flooded and the rest are
AGM. I have never seen more that 14.1 at the batt terminals with the
thing connected. The batts spend most of the time at 13.1.
Suggest you get a proper meter and measure again. I went thru two
Radio Shack meters before buying a good meter. Turns out teh Harbor
Freight 3.99 one is as good as you will get for a batter volt meter.
Your experience may differ?
PW
Those instruments are a good value. Compared to my first
purchase of a multimeter in 1961 (spent about $65 on a
Triplett 630 . . . a week's take home pay for my new
job at Boeing), about any digital instrument is more
accurate and they're exceedingly inexpensive compared
to 1961!
I've only had two of the 1562 maintainers and one of them
was given away a couple years ago. I did a plot of output
voltage for the recharge of a battery on one of them
and got this curve:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/schumacher_3.jpg
Not all charger/maintainers are equal. Even amongst
the Schumacher products, there are considerable variations
depending on model. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/
Behaviors for several Schumacher products are plotted
there. We don't know why they all differ but we DO know
that putting any RG battery on a constant "recharge"
voltage or "trickle" charge current will kill it over
time.
If you see anything that looks like a "top off" behavior
followed by an extended period of "relaxation" where
the voltage drops below 14 volts, there is a strong
likelihood that the device is doing good things for
your RG battery.
Bob . . .
=========
At 06:11 AM 3/18/2010, Radioflyer wrote:
After several postings here about how this is the best no-nonsense
maintainer for Pb-acid chemistry I got myself one from Walmart. Model
SEM 1562A. I put it on an Odyssey PC625 and checked the voltages. The
unit was charging at 15.6V. After 3 hrs, the float charge kicked in,
hovering around 14.6 volts. Later I believe I found a review on
Amazon from somebody who measured about the same voltages.
Don't know that I would call it "the best". I have no
first-hand knowledge or criteria by which I could
make such a pronouncement.
What we DO know is that all the time our engine is
running and the alternator is ON, the battery is being
recharged in a manner that is slightly abusive but
necessary. The duration of this "abuse" is no greater
than the many examples of charger/maintainer performance.
Further, time the airplane is parked with NOTHING
turned on is very high compared to time the airplane
is being flown. Hence, we see reasonably long lives from
otherwise ignored batteries be they flooded or something
more modern.
So whether your particular maintainer relaxes to 14.0
or something smaller is not terribly critical. The fact
that it tops-off first and relaxes at all is 95% of the
task.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Drilling holes for toggle switches? |
On 3/19/10 4:20 AM, donjohnston wrote:
> Sorry. Bad description on my part. The switch has the keyway. So a
> hole with a tab (or tang) is needed.
Yes, the switch has the keyway, but most such switches come with a keyed
washer which has another tang on the OD. That tang is bent, to fit into
a hole on the panel that will prevent rotation.
Correct. Back when we were selling switches . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Switches/switch2.jpg
We shipped them with the key-way washers installed. That's
how they were shipped to us. The handiest way to use
these washers is to install them on the BACK side of
the panel with the panel tab facing aft. You can drill
a hole all the way through the panel to accept the
panel-tab if your hole is covered later with a plastic
engraved overlay. If your design calls for putting
switch labels down directly onto panel structure,
the drill the panel tab holy only a few thousanths
deep and sand off the tab a bit before installation.
Also, you can take the panel tap off completely and
bond the washer to the back side of the panel. Use
a switch to fixture the washer behind the hole while
the bonding sets up.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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Subject: | Drilling holes for toggle switches |
I put essential bus and main bus switches in long lines on either side of
the lower panel Don. Then, I connected the hot sides together with B&C
brass bus bars (screw terminals on breakers/switches). Since all the holes
were drilled in a line and connected all switches together there is no way
they can twist in the hole. Just an idea, if you are not putting more than
one switch on a line of holes this or course will not work..... Good luck
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Flying/finishing upholstery and wheel pants
__________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Drilling holes for toggle switches?
From: "donjohnston" <don@numa.aero>
When drilling holes for standard style toggle switches, what is the common
methodfor creating a hole with the keyway? Or do you just use a round hole
and not worry about the keyway?
-Don
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