Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:16 AM - Re: re Chemical "nut Busters" (Marvin Haught)
2. 05:48 AM - Re: Chemical "nut busters" (Fisher Paul A.)
3. 06:26 AM - Re: re Chemical "nut Busters" (ROGER & JEAN CURTIS)
4. 07:01 AM - Re: Need New TNC male gold pin (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 07:12 AM - Re: Chemical "nut busters" (David E. Nelson)
6. 08:59 AM - Re: Chemical "nut busters" (ray)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: re Chemical "nut Busters" |
Very good point, and why I call it a "dangerous" mix, both to health and
what you are working on if it is painted. The good thing is the acetone
is so volatile that it evaporates quickly, but also why it is a threat
in close quarters.
M. Haught
David wrote:
>
> maybe it will work this time. same problem as before.
>
> regarding current thread:
> Please do not use the acetone and *anything* in closed quarters. In
> fact, if possible, have a fan blowing the fumes away from you while
> using. I don't know of ATF will keep acetone from immediately drying
> into the air, but don't chance it.
>
> David
>
>
> Marvin Haught wrote:
>> <handainc@madisoncounty.net>
>>
>> Robert -
>>
>> I think you are right on - I only use "the brew" on rough old rusty
>> machinery, or something that I am reconditioning. You can get by with
>> less "dangerous" solvents on other stuff. I keep various solvents on
>> hand, as I am sure you do to - this is the "last resort" product where
>> either the stuff works, or you are going to end up drilling out the
>> bolts or worse to salvage the parts.
>>
>> M. Haught
>>
>>
>> robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca wrote:
>>
>>> *Thanks for passing this along Bob. *
>>> *Great research info.*
>>> *I'm also happy to see that these test results bear out my own
>>> observations over many years as a mechanic restoring antique autos,
>>> that WD-40 is practically useless and a waste of money. The other
>>> product which is not on the list, but which I've found effective is
>>> called "Break Away" made by Cyclo Automotive Inc of Elkhart Indiana.
>>> It would have been interesting to see this as well as additional
>>> products on the list such as "Mouse Milk", and "Corrosion X" to
>>> further the comparisons. The major drawback of the ATF/Acetone mixture
>>> is its propensity to immediately remove paint and of course its
>>> extreme flammability. Used carefully however it's the "cats a**" so to
>>> speak.*
>>> **
>>> *Bob McC*
>>>
>>> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>>>
>>> Just got this note from a cousin out in California . . .
>>> ---------------------------------------
>>> Penetrating Oils Compared
>>> Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break
>>> out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a
>>> subjective
>>> test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque
>>> required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
>>> Penetrating oil Average load
>>> None ..................... 516 pounds
>>> WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
>>> PB Blaster ..............214 pounds
>>> Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
>>> Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
>>> ATF-Acetone mix... 53 pounds
>>> The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
>>> transmission fluid and acetone.
>>> Note: The "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this
>>> one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and
>>> all now
>>> use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is
>>> about as
>>> good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
>>> ------------------------------------------
>>> Kool Data! I have a can of Kroil that's
>>> left over from our airport days. Bought it to refurbish
>>> some parts on our tractor/hedge-hogg. But it's
>>> interesting to see that one can do better yet
>>> with some off-the-shelf ingredients. Would
>>> be interested in hearing from members on
>>> the list who have tried the home brew.
>>> Bob . . .
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Chemical "nut busters" |
Bob,
I had seen that note a few months ago. Over this last winter I had to replace
an engine on a log splitter. Since it had been together for 25+ years, everything
was pretty well rusted together. With nothing to lose, I tried the "home
brew" and it worked exactly as advertised! I was working outside, and removing
paint was not an issue, so none of the concerns expressed on the list were
an issue for me. I was as surprised as anyone how well the brew worked. I certainly
recommend it for seriously rusted together parts!
Paul A. Fisher
Q-200, N17PF
RV-7A, N18PF
Message 3
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| Subject: | re Chemical "nut Busters" |
The good thing is the acetone
is so volatile that it evaporates quickly, but also why it is a threat
in close quarters.
M. Haught
Two reasons it is a threat in close quarters: 1. It is very
flammable. 2. It is absorbed into your body very readily through the skin
and also through the lungs. Small amounts are not considered very harmful
but continued exposure can be. Read the MSDS.
Roger
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Need New TNC male gold pin |
At 08:51 PM 4/6/2010, you wrote:
><johngoodman@earthlink.net>
>
>I messed up my TNC male gold pin and need a new one. The TNC I have
>was pretty pricey from Aircraft Spruce, but I did see an older
>thread with a link for one much cheaper. Before I get a new one, is
>there any kind of source for just the pins?
None that I know of. Years ago, we needed a batch of
loose pins for some coax connectors and went to
TED Mfg to order several thousand. But nobody stocks
them as low-quantity, off-the-shelf items.
Your best bet is to replace the whole connector.
Ebay offers them pretty inexpensively but often
the postage is more than the connector!
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Chemical "nut busters" |
Hi Bob,
Thank you for forwarding this great info on. I was pondering this info while
driving into work this AM and came up with a couple of curiosity questions:
- How long were the assemblies exposed to the penetrants before applying the
torque (seconds, minutes, hours, days)?
- Is there any data for 'torque vs time' - ie. How much torque to break an
assembly vs time exposed to the penetrants?
Also, I would imagine that the assemblies would have to be _very_ clean before
re-assembling them - particularly for the 'home brew' stuff since it offers
nearly 10x reduction in torque.
Regards,
/\/elson
~~ Lately my memory seems to be like a steel trap .... without any spring. ~~
On Tue, 6 Apr 2010, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
>
> Just got this note from a cousin out in California . . .
>
> ---------------------------------------
> Penetrating Oils Compared
>
> Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break
> out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective
> test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque
> required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
>
> Penetrating oil Average load
>
> None ..................... 516 pounds
>
> WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
>
> PB Blaster ..............214 pounds
>
> Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
>
> Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
>
> ATF-Acetone mix... 53 pounds
>
> The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
> transmission fluid and acetone.
>
> Note: The "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this
> one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now
> use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as
> good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
>
> ------------------------------------------
>
> Kool Data! I have a can of Kroil that's
> left over from our airport days. Bought it to refurbish
> some parts on our tractor/hedge-hogg. But it's
> interesting to see that one can do better yet
> with some off-the-shelf ingredients. Would
> be interested in hearing from members on
> the list who have tried the home brew.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Chemical "nut busters" |
Here's one I have used a few times and it seems to work well. 1 oz of
wintergreen oil (available at a pharmacy) with 1/2 gal diesel fuel is
the formula I have seen. When I've used it, I mix small (<1oz) batches
of wintergreen and air tool oil ('cause it was close at hand and low
viscosity).
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
>
> Just got this note from a cousin out in California . . .
>
> ---------------------------------------
> Penetrating Oils Compared
>
> Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break
> out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective
> test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque
> required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
>
> Penetrating oil Average load
>
> None ..................... 516 pounds
>
> WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
>
> PB Blaster ..............214 pounds
>
> Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
>
> Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
>
> ATF-Acetone mix... 53 pounds
>
> The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
> transmission fluid and acetone.
>
> Note: The "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this
> one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now
> use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is
> about as
> good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
>
> ------------------------------------------
>
> Kool Data! I have a can of Kroil that's
> left over from our airport days. Bought it to refurbish
> some parts on our tractor/hedge-hogg. But it's
> interesting to see that one can do better yet
> with some off-the-shelf ingredients. Would
> be interested in hearing from members on
> the list who have tried the home brew.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
>
>
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