Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:33 AM - Re: Tri State Logic help needed (James Kilford)
2. 01:07 AM - Re: Tri State Logic help needed (rparigoris)
3. 01:11 AM - Re: Tri State Logic help needed (rparigoris)
4. 04:51 AM - D-subminiature Connectors ()
5. 07:36 AM - Re: Tri State Logic help needed (Bob McCallum)
6. 08:25 AM - Re: D-subminiature Connectors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 09:57 AM - Re: D-subminiature Connectors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 05:45 PM - IVO Prop Electronic CB report (Dennis & Anne Glaeser)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Tri State Logic help needed |
Ron,
How about using a double pole switch in place of a single pole
version. You can put the 0 and 12V onto the two inputs of the switch,
and wire the outputs together so that they swap them between 0V on one
and 12V on the other, to 12V on one and 0V on the other. Perhaps a
suitable switch exists for this.
A picture would doubtless speak a thousand words, but I have to dash
up the paintshop because the plane's in the middle of being painted.
If it's not clear I'll draw and send later.
HTH.
James
On Sat, May 29, 2010 at 6:21 AM, rparigoris <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us> wrote:
>
> Trying to wire stick grip to control Airmaster electric constant prop manual
control (jog to course or fine) we came to realization we are one wire short on
connector.
>
> Thus it would save a lot of time and effort if I could use Tri State Logic for
a solution.
>
> I could easily have one wire with three states using my SPTT switch on stick.
> 1) Infinite resistance (not connected to anything) when switch is in neutral
> 2)+12V when pushing momentary switch forward
> 3) (-) ground when pushing momentary switch back
>
> My goals:
> ** Have 2) +12V energize a 5 amp relay which runs prop Course
> ** Have 3) (-) energize a 5 amp relay which runs prop Fine
> ** Have 1) NOT energize either Course or Fine relay
>
> Any help and or ideas greatly appreciated.
>
> I think I would rather use relays compared to solid state because I just don't
know what is going on inside the constant speed controller, and relay contacts
can easily replicate resistance compared to supplied switch.
>
> I am OK with failure mode of circuit and relays because I plan to replicate for
each stick (2).
>
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299239#299239
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Tri State Logic help needed |
Hi James
Thx. for the reply.
We are using a Ray Allen G-205 stick grips (2). There ain't much room in there.
We are using an ultra miniature single pole triple throw switch as sold by them
to bearly fit in the aux position. There is no room for a triple throw double
pole switch. We have a 9 pin connector that lives in the stick itself, all
the pins are used up.
Currently we are using two 5 twisted wires. If we added another separate wire which
would then be two 5 twisted and a single wire, decided to take apart stick
grip and rewire and search for an 11 pin connector that would fit in stick we
could make do with the single pole triple throw switch.
Stick grips are wired, connectors and wires are complete:
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=31677
Wayne made assumption that we could use ship +12v and (-) which he did on schematic.
Kinda found out tonight we shot ourselves in foot as you really need to
use +12v and (-) that is located on Airmaster controller.
Anyway leaving alone stick grip, wiring of stick grip, stick grip connectors and
two already made 5 wire harnesses (times two, Pilot and Co-Pilot) if we could
leave existing alone anduse tri state logic to redeem ourselves, would be a
big time and effort saver.
Ron Parigoris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299242#299242
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Tri State Logic help needed |
Oops, meant Ray Allen G-207 stick Grip:
http://www.rayallencompany.com/products/stickgrips.html
Ron Parigoris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299243#299243
Message 4
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| Subject: | D-subminiature Connectors |
5/29/2010
Hello Fellow Builders, Here is what we are writing about:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D-subminiature
Bob Nuckolls writes: "It's a fact that the majority of d-sub connectors come
with
short, slotted-head 4-40 jack screws that are EXCEEDINGLY
difficult to work with in confined spaces traversed by wire
bundles." ..and ... "the inconvenience of stock, slot-head jack-screws."
{RESPONSE} He offers a screw handling solution here:
http://tinyurl.com/34nrdd5
I'd like to offer another solution -- use #4-40 machine screws with hex
socket (Allen wrench) drive heads. The hex socket drive head allows one to
manuever the small screws in a manner vastly superior to a straight slot or
phillips drive head screw.
See here for a source of such screws:
http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/products/SSC.cfm
Here is just one source of tools for handling these screws:
http://www.bondhus.com/
Conventional Allen wrenches work fine for most handling of these screws, but
these Prohold tools will give even more control if needed:
http://www.bondhus.com/features/prohold/body-0.htm
'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
understand knowledge."
PS: An aerospace vehicle with hex socket or Torx / six lobe / star drive
fasteners is much easier to work on than a vehicle with straight slot or
Phillips drive fasteners. See here for some handy tool kits to work with the
hex socket or Torx / six lobe / star drive fasteners:
http://www.chapmanmfg.com/
=======================================================
Time: 10:28:24 AM PST US
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Gauge wiring best practice
I would like to make the panel easily disconnectable, and I'm going to
be using something like Tyco AMP MATE-N-LOK connectors for connecting
other things to the panel. (These are multi-way locking connectors,
with crimped pins, supporting various wire gauges -- 10-30AWG at
least).
Keep in mind that every connector interface adds three new
joints to every wire. Running lots of electro-goodies through a
single connector adds a single point of failure for all
those electro-goodies........
BIG SKIP
Probably no functional differences. However, it's
been my observation over the years that spending a lot
of time adding complexity for some perceived future
convenience has a poor return on investment. Suggest
you 'enhance' the stock jack-screws and wire each
instrument as a stand-alone system while minimizing
features shared with other systems.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Tri State Logic help needed |
Ron;
Attached is a circuit which is not particularly elegant will function as
you've requested. I'm not certain that the possible failure modes are
acceptable, or that you'd be happy with the relays constantly energized
which is the way this circuit operates, but for what it's worth here it is.
Sketch is shown with power disconnected, relays in relaxed (off) position.
This circuit will connect the fine and coarse wires to each other during
normal flight operation. If this is not acceptable then a diode could be
introduced in each of these wires to isolate them from each other.
* With the stick switch in centre - no connection - (Situation 1) both
relays are energized and no power can flow to either coarse or fine output
wire.
* With stick switch supplying +12V - (Situation 2) - Upper relay has
+12 on both ends of coil, therefore turns off and lower relay supplies +12V
to "coarse" wire.
* With stick switch supplying ground - (situation 3) - Lower relay has
both sides of coil grounded therefore turns off and upper relay supplies
+12V to "fine" wire.
Resistors should be approximately the same resistance and wattage as the
relay coils. You require a resistor in the lead from each stick switch so
that in a situation where one stick is selecting coarse and the other fine,
the resistors dissipate the energy which would otherwise be a dead short
through the grip switches. In this scenario, theoretically the relay common
point would remain at 6 Volts and no pitch change would happen. You could
also incorporate a panel switch into this circuit, wired the same way. Note
also the relays have 6 Volt coils.
Bob McC
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rparigoris
> Sent: Saturday, May 29, 2010 1:22 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Tri State Logic help needed
>
<rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
> Trying to wire stick grip to control Airmaster electric constant prop
manual control
> (jog to course or fine) we came to realization we are one wire short on
connector.
>
> Thus it would save a lot of time and effort if I could use Tri State Logic
for a solution.
>
> I could easily have one wire with three states using my SPTT switch on
stick.
> 1) Infinite resistance (not connected to anything) when switch is in
neutral
> 2)+12V when pushing momentary switch forward
> 3) (-) ground when pushing momentary switch back
>
> My goals:
> ** Have 2) +12V energize a 5 amp relay which runs prop Course
> ** Have 3) (-) energize a 5 amp relay which runs prop Fine
> ** Have 1) NOT energize either Course or Fine relay
>
> Any help and or ideas greatly appreciated.
>
> I think I would rather use relays compared to solid state because I just
don't know
> what is going on inside the constant speed controller, and relay contacts
can easily
> replicate resistance compared to supplied switch.
>
> I am OK with failure mode of circuit and relays because I plan to
replicate for each
> stick (2).
>
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299239#299239
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: D-subminiature Connectors |
>
>
>I'd like to offer another solution -- use #4-40 machine screws with
>hex socket (Allen wrench) drive heads. The hex socket drive head
>allows one to manuever the small screws in a manner vastly superior
>to a straight slot or phillips drive head screw.
Good put Bob! I'd neglected to include that
process. I use a LOT of the hex-headed cap
screws in the various instrumentation packages
I've developed.
This whole system is held together with
hex-cap screws.
http://tinyurl.com/3xzsvrd
http://tinyurl.com/3xzsvrd
. . . very handy . . . especially when numerous
assembly/disassembly operations are necessary.
Thanks for adding this to the recipes for success.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: D-subminiature Connectors |
I've updated the image at:
http://tinyurl.com/34nrdd5
to include Bob's contribution to the question
of user friendly jackscrews.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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| Subject: | IVO Prop Electronic CB report |
Bob,
I built the 'Prop Pitch Current Limiter and Electronic CB' circuit last week
and tested it today.
It works as expected, with one minor difficulty - the Amber LED doesn't come
on! It flashes briefly when the switch is released, but that's it. The
Green LED is lit when the motor is in operation, and the CB feature works
great - the motor stops when the current is a bit over 9 amps. The IRFP3703
barely gets warm, but the 0.2 ohm resister does get warm (not too hot to
touch - didn't measure).
What would cause the Amber LED to not come on? Could I have installed it
backwards? (I double checked, but Murphy's Law has not been repealed)
One of my EAA Chapter buddies has an O-scope I can borrow, so what (and how)
to check?
Thanks,
Dennis
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