Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:56 AM - Re: labeling panel (jonlaury)
2. 11:37 AM - Re: Blown fuse annunciator circuit (Keith Burris)
3. 11:54 AM - Re: Re: labeling panel (Richard E. Tasker)
4. 12:28 PM - Re: Re: labeling panel (Bill Bradburry)
5. 01:31 PM - Resistor too hot? (donjohnston)
6. 01:54 PM - Re: Blown fuse annunciator circuit (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 02:06 PM - Re: Resistor too hot? (RGent1224@aol.com)
8. 02:11 PM - Re: Resistor too hot? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 02:26 PM - Re: Resistor too hot? (Mike Welch)
10. 02:37 PM - Re: Resistor too hot? (donjohnston)
11. 04:08 PM - Re: Re: Resistor too hot? (rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us)
12. 04:24 PM - EMS for sale (Harley)
13. 06:23 PM - Re: Re: labeling panel (Jim Wickert)
14. 06:30 PM - Re: Re: Resistor too hot? (Daniel Hooper)
15. 06:44 PM - LED light strips (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 06:46 PM - LED light strips (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: labeling panel |
RE Silkscreening:
Earlier I said that I would post my experience with EZScreen Print.
After a trial and error learning curve, I wasn't satisfied with the results. The
problem was somewhat self-inflicted as I was trying to print a fairly small
font and the screen printing process has some limitations in how a finely detailed
an image prints. I was trying to do 16 pt and the edges were just not crisp
enough for me. Larger block fonts of about 36 points look pretty good. They
look nicely painted but not like computer print work. If I was doing large font
work, I'd be happy with the look. It has more body, color vibrancy. Kind of
like the difference between a beautifully rendered painting and a photo of the
same subject.
So that said, I'm done with my experiment and if someone else would like to try
it, $25 gets the $85 kit of Red, Blue, Black, White paint, squeegees, 1 full
sheet and about 3/4 sheet (8.5 x 11) of the artwork ready Hi-Res screen, laser
printer transparencies for artwork, and instructions.
Next experiment is vinyl decal with solvent based inks that should be compatible
with the clear acrylic. Will post results.
For the EZSreen Print kit, Email me at jonlaury@impulse.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=301004#301004
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Blown fuse annunciator circuit |
Bob:
You wrote:
One idea behind the fuse blocks was the low cost
and labor for offering lots of protected feeders
from a bus . . . eliminating current or future
situations where multiple systems have to share
a single protected feeder. It's true that circuit
breakers offer a visual indication of having tripped . . .
but of what value? While airborne, what value is
there in knowing that gizmo (1) has stopped working
because the power is removed due to overloaded
breaker or (2) has stopped working for dozens of
other reasons that do not trip the breaker?
Keeping in mind that I am not a high time pilot and only thinking of my
experience in the cockpit so far -- wouldnt you want to know, now, why
something is not working instead of worrying about what else is not working?
Seems to me there is a comfort factor there. Regarding weight, I can't
imagine a few ounces making much difference but I am ready to stand
corrected.
If any device becomes non-functional, the likelihood of
putting it back in service by replacing a fuse or
resetting a breaker is nearly zero. If any failure
presents an extra ordinary task for comfortable return
to earth, THAT system needs a backup . . . a plan-B.
Don't plan to try to put it back in service. I would just know whats wrong
and not worry about it while attempting to land.
Once you're on the ground, how difficult is it
to confirm whether or not the fuse has opened on
any one system? It's a 30 second test with your
multimeter. How often do you expect to troubleshoot
a potentially blown fuse? I can share that in 1000+
hours of time in little airplanes, I've had TWO
breaker tripping events. One was the alternator B-lead
breaker . . . DESIGNED to nuisance trip. The other
was power to the audio distribution amplifier . . .
shorted transistors. NO recovery possible by resetting
the breaker. How often do you find it necessary to
find a popped fuse in your lifetime experience driving
cars? I've had a less than a hand-full in 50+ years.
Haven't had one in over 20 years.
This may just be me and being a low time, scared pilot - If, for whatever
reason, I forget, or don't fix it right, or get distracted, or fix it and
break something else in the process, whatever, I have a visual reference, on
the panel, that the plane is not airworthy before I commit by wheels up.
This indication would be available after the pre-flight. The pre-flight, it
seems to me, could be a place where an electrical problem could be missed,
but again, this is from a guy who puts creases in the middle of the left
seat when he flies :-)
So what's the return on investment for putting blown
fuse indicators on all your present and future fuses?
Are all the new wires protected? Is there some other
task on your project that would benefit from expenditure
of $time$, talent, weight, space and other resources
on your airplane? Finally, have you considered the
use of fuses with built-in indicators?
Following the advice in the Connection, I have decided to use a fuse block
with indicating fuses. The problem is, the fuse block will be out of site of
the panel. The wires for the panel indicators are not protected, and,
indeed, one could carry the idea of protection to the point of
ridiculousness. I guess the only benefit I see is just some piece of mind
for the new or inexperienced pilot, but that's why I'm on this list.
-- Keith
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: labeling panel |
Check out http://www.pulsarprofx.com/
You do need to find a heat sealer (or buy the one they sell), but the
results are as good as they claim. I did my panels with this and it
came out great! There is s bit of a learning curve at the start, but
the kit provides plenty of material. I did use a clear overcoat for
additional durability, but it is not necessary in areas of minimum
exposure - near switches, yes; general labeling on the main panel, not
really.
Dick Tasker
jonlaury wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "jonlaury"<jonlaury@impulse.net>
>
> RE Silkscreening:
>
> Earlier I said that I would post my experience with EZScreen Print.
>
> After a trial and error learning curve, I wasn't satisfied with the results.
The problem was somewhat self-inflicted as I was trying to print a fairly small
font and the screen printing process has some limitations in how a finely detailed
an image prints. I was trying to do 16 pt and the edges were just not
crisp enough for me. Larger block fonts of about 36 points look pretty good. They
look nicely painted but not like computer print work. If I was doing large
font work, I'd be happy with the look. It has more body, color vibrancy. Kind
of like the difference between a beautifully rendered painting and a photo of
the same subject.
>
> So that said, I'm done with my experiment and if someone else would like to try
it, $25 gets the $85 kit of Red, Blue, Black, White paint, squeegees, 1 full
sheet and about 3/4 sheet (8.5 x 11) of the artwork ready Hi-Res screen, laser
printer transparencies for artwork, and instructions.
>
> Next experiment is vinyl decal with solvent based inks that should be compatible
with the clear acrylic. Will post results.
>
> For the EZSreen Print kit, Email me at jonlaury@impulse.net
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=301004#301004
>
>
>
--
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
--
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: labeling panel |
The best way to label your panel that I have come across in the full sticky
back full sheet Avery labels. They are clear #18665 or vellum like clear
#53203. The sheets are 8.5 X 11 and are designed for ink jet printers. I
made up my labels using Word and then printed the sheets and then cut apart
as needed and applied to the panel. I even printed circles to correspond
with the switch holes in the panel which helped me to align the labels when
I applied to the panel. Then I just cut out the holes with a razor knife
and installed the switches. Looks pretty darn good if I do say so myself.
You can overspray them with clear lacquer if you feel you need to protect
them better. Just keep the Word file and reprint if you want to replace or
change. As it turns out, I am changing a lot of stuff and this makes that a
snap.
With a little planning, you can get the entire panel on 1 or 2 sheets and
then cut with a scissors and apply.
While you are getting everything to fit and align, you can print on regular
paper and hold it over the location on the panel to see if it fits and looks
like you want it to.
You can get 10 sheets of the clear (18665) for $13. That is enough to label
the panel of everybody you know and still have some left for changes!
Hard to beat for the price!!
Bill B
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jonlaury
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 12:53 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: labeling panel
RE Silkscreening:
Earlier I said that I would post my experience with EZScreen Print.
After a trial and error learning curve, I wasn't satisfied with the results.
The problem was somewhat self-inflicted as I was trying to print a fairly
small font and the screen printing process has some limitations in how a
finely detailed an image prints. I was trying to do 16 pt and the edges
were just not crisp enough for me. Larger block fonts of about 36 points
look pretty good. They look nicely painted but not like computer print work.
If I was doing large font work, I'd be happy with the look. It has more
body, color vibrancy. Kind of like the difference between a beautifully
rendered painting and a photo of the same subject.
So that said, I'm done with my experiment and if someone else would like to
try it, $25 gets the $85 kit of Red, Blue, Black, White paint, squeegees, 1
full sheet and about 3/4 sheet (8.5 x 11) of the artwork ready Hi-Res
screen, laser printer transparencies for artwork, and instructions.
Next experiment is vinyl decal with solvent based inks that should be
compatible with the clear acrylic. Will post results.
For the EZSreen Print kit, Email me at jonlaury@impulse.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=301004#301004
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Resistor too hot? |
I'm planning on using some LED strips for courtesy lighting. I found a 19" strip
with 30 LEDs that draw 130mA at 12v. Since I'm going to using a 24v system,
I'm going to need to drop use a resistor.
So using 28v as the supply with a voltage drop of 12v and a current of 130mA gave
me a 123 ohm 2 watt resistor. I have access to some 123 ohm, 2 watt, metal
film resistors so I tried those.
When I set it up on the breadboard the current was reading 100ma but the resistor
was almost immediately too hot to touch. Using a point and shoot thermometer
(not the most accurate for this) showed 120 degrees within about 1 minute and
after 5 minutes it was up to 140 degrees.
Now I don't expect these lights will stay on much longer than 5 minutes as they
will most likely be used during loading and unloading but that heat doesn't seem
right.
How hot is too hot for a resistor?
Should I bump up to a 5 watt resistor?
Did I miscalculate?
Don
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=301014#301014
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Blown fuse annunciator circuit |
>
>Following the advice in the Connection, I have decided to use a fuse
>block with indicating fuses. The problem is, the fuse block will be
>out of site of the panel. The wires for the panel indicators are not
>protected, and, indeed, one could carry the idea of protection to
>the point of ridiculousness. I guess the only benefit I see is just
>some piece of mind for the new or inexperienced pilot, but that's
>why I'm on this list.
Understand. Please know that nobody's trying to drive
your design goals either. This is a forum for discovery
evaluation and incorporation of simple-ideas into recipes
for success. The sum total of this List's membership brings
the added benefit of perhaps several centuries of experience
in such matters.
To the extent that you can use this resource to both
refine your ideas and assuage ill-founded fears, so
be it. But in the final analysis, it's your airplane.
The best way to evaluate your design decisions is to
tell us what Plan-B you've crafted for the loss of
any truly useful electro-whizzy based on the manner you
will be using your airplane. It's called critical design
review . . . a practice common to virtually every successful
venture. Putting your ideas down in black and white for
review by fellow travelers of aviation circles goes a
long way toward validation of the design which in turn
confirms or discounts your fears. Suggest you check out
Chapter 17 in the 'Connection if you've not already done
so.
But even after your airplane is finished, go test your
design goals in a low-risk flight environment. One
of my first business cross country trips after getting
my ticket was to Brainerd MN. I was partnered with
a fellow who worked for Wilcox, an avionics manufacturer
in Kansas City. I picked him up at Johnson County
Exec Apt and we headed north. He had never flown
in a little airplane before. He understood what
all that hardware on the panel was for but had never
considered its role in the grand-plan for getting
us from point A to point B.
He expressed some relief in having all those goodies
to get us where we were going. I thought I'd yank
his chain a bit . . . and shut down he electrical
system. He expressed some concern but I assured
him that if we just kept it pointed straight north,
we could get there just fine without all that "stuff".
What he didn't know was that our fluids-maintenance
stop (Ft Dodge) and Brainerd were both dead-nuts
north of KC and just staying lined up on section roads
and watching the clock made the Plan-B pretty easy. 20
years later, my hand-held GPS would have made the same
demonstration easier still.
The point is that your confidence in doing without
major chunks (if not all) of the panel mounted
electro-whizzies will be greatly improved if you
do some flying in the "J-3 mode". This will sharpen
your own thinking processes and flying skills while
validating design goals. It's not a "feat of daring do"
if you've "been there, done that" a few times on your
own terms.
When I fly, it's ALWAYS in a rented airplane. Design
and maintenance goals of my choosing are never incorporated
into the airplane-of-the-day. So I have to walk up
to that machine prepared to get where I want to go
with NOTHING on the panel working. Instead of building
back-ups-to-back-ups into your airplane, why not trade that
time, weight, space and expense for a plan and the
skills to deal with the worst that can happen? The
risks are very low when you get to stack the deck.
Bob . . .
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Resistor too hot? |
In a message dated 6/12/2010 3:32:06 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
don@numa.aero writes:
I'm planning on using some LED strips for courtesy lighting. I found a 19"
strip with 30 LEDs that draw 130mA at 12v.
>>>>>>>>>>>
Where
Tks
Dick
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Resistor too hot? |
At 03:27 PM 6/12/2010, you wrote:
>
>I'm planning on using some LED strips for courtesy lighting. I found
>a 19" strip with 30 LEDs that draw 130mA at 12v. Since I'm going to
>using a 24v system, I'm going to need to drop use a resistor.
>
>So using 28v as the supply with a voltage drop of 12v and a current
>of 130mA gave me a 123 ohm 2 watt resistor. I have access to some
>123 ohm, 2 watt, metal film resistors so I tried those.
>
>When I set it up on the breadboard the current was reading 100ma but
>the resistor was almost immediately too hot to touch. Using a point
>and shoot thermometer (not the most accurate for this) showed 120
>degrees within about 1 minute and after 5 minutes it was up to 140 degrees.
>
>Now I don't expect these lights will stay on much longer than 5
>minutes as they will most likely be used during loading and
>unloading but that heat doesn't seem right.
>
>How hot is too hot for a resistor?
>
>Should I bump up to a 5 watt resistor?
>
>Did I miscalculate?
No. The normal "full power" operating temperature
for some power resistors is pretty toasty. Typically
over 100C (will sizzle spit).
For example:
Emacs!
Here'a de-rating curve for a typical metal film power resistor.
Note that it's good for 100% of power rating at 70C ambient.
When ambient rises to about 225 degrees C (that's
really toasty), you cannot call upon the device to handle
ANY power. I.e., At full power in a 70C environment, one
can expect the surface temperature to be over 200C.
The specifications for your resistor of choice should
be available on the 'net . . . but it's unlikely that
you've got a problem with respect to the resistor itself.
A significant risk for incorporating high power devices
into a system may not be for the device itself but for
surrounding devices and/or materials that will degrade
in performance when subject to local heating.
Bob . . .
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Resistor too hot? |
> Did I miscalculate?
> Don
Don=2C
From what I see=2C and according to the information you stated=2C no=2C y
ou didn't miscalculate. A 12 volt forward voltage does sound high=2C thoug
h. Most LEDs have a forward voltage in the 2 volt range. Hmm?
From my experience with LEDs=2C why not just give a higher resistor a try
? The only thing
a higher resistor will affect is the luminosity of the LED=2C and from my e
xperience it takes a lot more resistance to reduce the brightness any signi
ficant degree. Why not try 330 ohm resistors=2C or maybe even some 470's?
Just a thought....
Mike Welch
_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search=2C chat and e-mail from your inbox
.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:O
N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Resistor too hot? |
> From what I see, and according to the information you stated, no, you didn't
miscalculate. A 12 volt forward voltage does sound high, though. Most LEDs have
a forward voltage in the 2 volt range. Hmm?
Mike,
It's not a single LED, it's a strip of 30 LEDs. According the information, they're
designed for a 12v supply.
Spec's are here:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FFLS.htm
It's the first one one the list (xFLS-CW30).
Sounds like I'm okay. I just need to figure out where to mount the resistor so
the heat isn't an issue.
-Don
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=301024#301024
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Resistor too hot? |
Hi Don
Just a thought, can you find two light strips you can
put in series? Do you have a Pep Boys automotive store near you? They sell
various length LED light strips, I have one that is bout half the length
you want to use. There is a good chance on your light strip you have if it
is like picture on website, thereare 3 LEDs in series with a
resistor. If you made a cut of wires at the 15 LED mark and put them in
series instead of parallel you could get rid of your resistor all
together.
Ron Parigoris
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I have my EMS, a like new I_K Technologies AIM 1, for sale.
I won't need the I-K, as the D-180 I bought does everything this does,
and also includes an EFIS which this I-K unit only partially does
(airspeed and altitude).
So...the details:
This is what the display looks like when fired up:
www.i-ktechnologies.com/Products-aim1.htm
and that I-K Technologies web site includes more information on it.
Here is what the unit displays:
* Airspeed
* RPM
* MP
* Oil Press
* Oil Temp
* Fuel Flow
* Fuel Pressure
* EGT (x4)
* CHT (x4)
* Altitude
* Checklist
I will include all the paperwork that came with it and the instrument
mounting tray. If you want pictures of the unit as I have it, including
the data module, let me know and I can email them to you.
It is brand new. I have never installed it or even powered up. It
consists of two parts, the engine data module (which mounts on or near
the firewall) and the display module that mounts on the panel. The
entire system weighs less than 2 pounds. The only wiring to the display
from the data module is a single data cable, so the majority of the
sensor and probe wiring remains short, and near the engine.
Ralph Krongold, the owner of I-K Technologies, told me this morning that
he'd be glad to check it over for anyone who buys it from me, but
expects that there will be no problems with it and that a checkup will
most likely be unnecessary.
Just as when it is purchased from I-K, the unit does not include the
probes, sensors and wires. They are normally purchased separately, or it
can use the ones that you currently have installed on your engine. If
you don't have them, you can buy them from I-K, Stein (who has a
complete kit of the ones needed for the AIM 1
www.steinair.com/enginemonitors.htm ), Aircraft Spruce, or your favorite
aircraft supply stores.
Having said that, this unit was for the four cylinder, Lycoming O-235
that I am installing. It can be used on any 4 cylinder, air cooled
engine, and, as I mentioned, the dealers who handle it (like Stein and
Aircraft Spruce) offer the probes separately if you don't already have
your own. It uses standard j and k thermocouples, flow and pressure
sensors.
The current price of this unit is $1499 (without the probes and
sensors). You can have it for $1200. I will include everything that I
received with the display and data module unit including the data cable,
the sensor cable, the manual, the test data and the power plug and pins.
It was for my Long EZ, so the data cable should be long enough for just
about any aircraft (except an A380, maybe <G>)
United States shipping will be for free.
Please contact me if interested...
Harley Dixon
harley@agelesswings.com
Long EZ N28EZ
Canandaigua, NY
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: labeling panel |
Jon,
Jim Wickert here. Did you use the HR High Res screen the HiRes ink? Or was
this the standard materials. Thanks.
Jim Wickert
Tel 920-467-0219
Cell 920-912-1014
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jonlaury
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 11:53 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: labeling panel
RE Silkscreening:
Earlier I said that I would post my experience with EZScreen Print.
After a trial and error learning curve, I wasn't satisfied with the results.
The problem was somewhat self-inflicted as I was trying to print a fairly
small font and the screen printing process has some limitations in how a
finely detailed an image prints. I was trying to do 16 pt and the edges
were just not crisp enough for me. Larger block fonts of about 36 points
look pretty good. They look nicely painted but not like computer print work.
If I was doing large font work, I'd be happy with the look. It has more
body, color vibrancy. Kind of like the difference between a beautifully
rendered painting and a photo of the same subject.
So that said, I'm done with my experiment and if someone else would like to
try it, $25 gets the $85 kit of Red, Blue, Black, White paint, squeegees, 1
full sheet and about 3/4 sheet (8.5 x 11) of the artwork ready Hi-Res
screen, laser printer transparencies for artwork, and instructions.
Next experiment is vinyl decal with solvent based inks that should be
compatible with the clear acrylic. Will post results.
For the EZSreen Print kit, Email me at jonlaury@impulse.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=301004#301004
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Resistor too hot? |
Or, use a resistor like this:
http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ohmite/TBH25P150RJE/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvhlCB8
CTbT5P3ZZcE9WVSjJn%252bo%252b5MXx0c%3d
Screw that down to some convenient large piece of metal and it will stay
much cooler. Just be sure to heat-shrink the leads so they don't short
to the heat sink surface. The tab is electrically insulated, so there's
no need for a mica sheet underneath it.
--Daniel
On Jun 12, 2010, at 6:04 PM, rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote:
> Hi Don
>
> Just a thought, can you find two light strips you can put in series?
Do you have a Pep Boys automotive store near you? They sell various
length LED light strips, I have one that is bout half the length you
want to use. There is a good chance on your light strip you have if it
is like picture on website, there are 3 LEDs in series with a resistor.
If you made a cut of wires at the 15 LED mark and put them in series
instead of parallel you could get rid of your resistor all together.
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | LED light strips |
>Sounds like I'm okay. I just need to figure out where to mount the
>resistor so the heat isn't an issue.
How do you plan to use this product? I sounds like
a LOT of light output capability.
Bob . . .
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | LED light strips |
>Sounds like I'm okay. I just need to figure out where to mount the
>resistor so the heat isn't an issue.
How do you plan to use this product? I sounds like
a LOT of light output capability.
OOPS . . . scratch the above . . . I picked it up
in your earlier post. I was just thinking that
these would be about 100 times more light than
what was needed for cockpit night lighting.
Bob . . .
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|