Today's Message Index:
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1. 02:40 AM - Re: Icom A6 Power Supply (icrashrc)
2. 06:28 AM - Re: Re: Icom A6 Power Supply (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 09:34 AM - Re: Battery cables (Allen Fulmer)
4. 10:23 AM - Re: Icom A6 Power Supply (dougshep@netzero.com)
5. 12:32 PM - Re: New Z-8 drawing (jonlaury)
6. 02:35 PM - Firewall Penetration (MLWynn@aol.com)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Icom A6 Power Supply |
I have a A24 which i believe calls for the same $$power supply$$ as the A6. Mine
needs to see between 9.5 and 11.7 volts at the plug to charge the battery AND
to transmit. The A24 will still turn on, change channels, listen to traffic,
charge the battery, etc above 11.7 volts but it will not transmit.
--------
Scott
www.ill-EagleAviation.com
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=307741#307741
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Icom A6 Power Supply |
At 04:38 AM 8/6/2010, you wrote:
>
>I have a A24 which i believe calls for the same $$power supply$$ as
>the A6. Mine needs to see between 9.5 and 11.7 volts at the plug to
>charge the battery AND to transmit. The A24 will still turn on,
>change channels, listen to traffic, charge the battery, etc above
>11.7 volts but it will not transmit.
Interesting data point! Thank you. This makes sense
as these tiny transceivers all have one thing in
common . . .
To get Power Output they need to have Power Input.
The best possible efficiency for the power output
stage of an AM transmitters has a practical limit
. . . where INEFFICIENCY manifests itself as heat.
When you've stuffed a multi-watt transmitter into
a envelope the size of a package of cigarets, the
designers best hopes for moving heat out of the
vulnerable circuits are severely restricted.
This bit of information suggests that external
power adapters for these radios may well contain
regulators designed to keep the radio from going
into self-protective shutdown when powered from
a DC bus supported at over 14v by an alternator.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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That looks just like the one I bought from West Marine. Probably cheaper
too.
Once fat wire was connected to above "pass through terminal" at the firewall
I branched off to a four pole bus bar like this:
http://bluesea.com/category/9/35/products/2307
>From here I fed the Egg. "Master Switch" with a #10 wire, and the main fuse
block (or a Vertical Power box) with a #6 wire.
I used a #4 "fat" wire and lugs from here:
http://www.periheliondesign.com/fatwires.htm
And only one fat wire from rear mounted batteries to the firewall in my
RV7/Egg E6Ti per Bob N's Z19RB,
Then a #10 always hot wire from "Engine" battery to the Egg. "Master
switch", emergency side per (Jan Eggenfellner).
Also one #6 from rear mounted batteries ground lug all the way through the
firewall to an engine lug (per Jan).
HTH
Allen Fulmer
Alexander City, AL
N808AF reserved
RV7 w/Egg. E6Ti installed and running
3 screen GRT EFIS wired and set up
Only cowl, canopy, and fiberglass to go!
8 years and counting!
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
RGent1224@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2010 4:02 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Battery cables
Check this solution out I'll be using them when the time comes
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Red-3-8-Stud-Type-Junction-Block-_W0QQcmdZVie
wItemQQitemZ350377856912QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
They also have black
Dick
In a message dated 8/5/2010 3:34:52 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
dougshep@netzero.com writes:
I'm building an RV-9A with an Eggenfellner Subaru E6 engine. I will be
mounting my batteries in the tailcone of the AC, and will have to route the
power cables (probably two #6 wire size with terminals) fwd to the firewall.
Since I have an all metal AC, how do I terminate this large cable on the
firewall (aft side), with connecting cables, going fwd to the starter and
also to the instr panel? Haven't been able to find any type of an insulated
standoff for this. Can you recommend something?
Also, where can I get a schematic for the Wig-Wag circuit so I can interface
to it?
===================================
List
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matro
nics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
===================================
ms.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
===================================
tp://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
===================================
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Icom A6 Power Supply |
I'm trying to adapt my ICOM A23 (NAV/COM) hand held xcvr to my panel als
o. The A23 is very similar to your A6 electrically. I ordered a BP-200
, battery eliminator (it replaces its battery) and connected it to my A6
and here is the letter I sent with the BP-200 back to W&W Manufacturing
where I purchased it:
"I received your WWE-BP200 Battery eliminator for my ICOM A23 handheld t
ransceiver. When using it by plugging it into an auto (engine was off)
cigarette lighter, the transceiver seemed to work except produced so muc
h static and noise (squeals) that it was not usable. Note that when usi
ng the transceiver in the same auto with its normal battery pack it work
ed perfectly. The transceiver uses its normal whip antenna that came wi
th it. The auto battery measured 12.7 VDC, and also the same problem oc
curred in another auto I tested it in. I checked the BP200 with a volt
meter and it produces the correct 10.0 VDC output. Apparently its power
supply is producing the noise and its coupling into the transceiver. P
erhaps its power supply is defective.Pse send me another BP200 without t
his noise problem."
Well, all I got was a refund to my credit card. The Battery eliminator
uses a buck converter that produces a 200Khz power with enough noise to
radiate into your antenna. Using 50feet of RG-58 and an external antenn
a routed the same distance, it worked pretty good. So, forget it unless
you can shield its power supply or use an outside antenna.
I've just ordered ICOM's A23 service manual, and plan to panel mount my
A23 with its battery pack using a charger/booster. The A23 can trickle
or boost charge. I've heard good things about airborne ICOM handhelds (
mine works good in flight), and panel mount NAV/COMs are $$$. I'd be ca
reful about connecting your A6 directly to aircraft power.
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: New Z-8 drawing |
Bob,
Just to be clear, in a previous exchange you said that ALL essential engine power
should come from the Batt Bus. Does that mean redundant systems (#2pump, #2ignition,
#2EFI {switch}) also reside on the batt bus?
If the answer is yes, what is the reasoning for not having them on the main (separate)
bus?
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=307798#307798
Message 6
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Subject: | Firewall Penetration |
Hi all,
I am about to make the firewall penetrations for my all electric RV 8. Is
there any reason that I cannot run the main #2 power wire to the starter
contactor, B lead from the standby alternator, both alternator F-leads and
the sensor wires from the CHT, EGT, oil pressure, oil temp, fuel pressure
and fuel flow all through the same penetration? I have a nice Safeair kit
with a one inch stainless pipe. They would all fit but I was wondering if
there would be any signal interference with the sensors next to the fat wires.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8 FWF
San Ramon, CA
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