Today's Message Index:
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1. 05:26 AM - Re: Newbie needs electric help (checkn6)
2. 03:34 PM - Re: Re: New Z-8 drawing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 06:02 PM - Re: Battery tender (David LLoyd)
4. 06:33 PM - Re: Battery tender (Bill Hibbing)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Newbie needs electric help |
I agree with Bob that this is an easy task, however I strongly recommend that you
invest in the book and do research on the website just to get a good understanding
of the electrical system in your machine and how it all ties together.
I'm certainly no expert but I can't tell you how many times I have shaken my
head at those with "0" understanding of even the basics. "Gee! Why can't anyone
hear me on my radio?" "Gee! my "X" fuse keeps blowing out but I keep putting
in a bigger one and it will stop blowing eventually"
Ignorance is no excuse when it comes to flying so know your bird inside and out,
it may just save your bacon some day. You don't have to be an electrical engineer
but is sure is comforting to understand the basics at the very least. And
one other important point is that by purchasing the book you also support Bob
and his efforts to keep us all educated and safe. I know he gives a lot of his
time freely but I like to help those that help me.
Just my two pennies
Chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308030#308030
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: New Z-8 drawing |
>1.My ground power jack positve lead to the contactor is about 30".
>When the SB alternator is on line the GPJ lead is hot to the battery
>through a 40a MANL.
The ground power lead can't go through the MANL40.
You can't crank an engine through that small a fuse.
This lead is in the same class as a "FAT WIRE" that
feeds battery/cranking circuits and does not give
rise to a lot of risk that cannot be managed by shutting
off the crew controlled power switches.
>2. To control the GPJ/SB alt contactor by the SB Alt switch, without
>having to remember to close the GPJ contactor, I have two parallel
>switch legs from the neg side of the contactor coil to ground. One for
>the GPJ per the Z figure and one for a leg of the DPDT switch that
>has 9024 control of the SB alt.on the other leg.
>Other than inadvertently closing the GPJ/SB alt contactor by the GP
>switch and putting both alts online at once (are there bad things
>that happen??), I can't see any problems with doing this. But when
>asking a system to do double duty, I'd like some other eyes to have
>a look for gotchas.
I'm praying over this a bit. What's your s/b
alternator/regulator combination again?
>And speaking of double duty, could the 9024 Ovm on the contactor
>also dispense with the need for the (9005 LVM) on the Batt bus?
Yes, or better yet, the 9011 dual LV monitor
can watch both the battery and main busses
and perhaps handle s/b alt OV too.
Still sifting the marbles . . .
Bob . . .
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Battery tender |
Bill,
The BT is mass produced in a foreign land like everything else this
country now uses.
Inside the box are two adjustable mini-pots. They were obviously set
wrong as the float voltage should be about 13.1 to 13.3 volts. If you
are handy you can change the float voltage pot. It is silicone'd to
hold its setting so a little exacto knifing has to be done to get the
pot to move. The pot change needed is "tiny" so if opened, go in baby
sets and always do the experiment with a battery connected to the
outputs and allow an hour or more for the new setting to stabilize.
Otherwise....just get another unit and test it thoroughly when opened so
you can take it back if the settings are wrong. Be sure to use a good
volt meter.
David
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----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Hibbing
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 9:26 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Battery tender
I've got a BatteryTender Plus that has a float voltage of 12.7 volts.
This is on both a new battery and the one that is being replaced. Is it
time for a new Batterytender?
Bill
Glasair SIIS-FT
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Battery tender |
Thanks David,
I took Lectric Bob's advice and bought a Schumacher at WallyWorld for
about $20 or so. But I still have the unit in question so I'm going to
play around with it and see what I can do...when it cools off a bit here
in Memphis.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: David LLoyd
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 8:00 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Battery tender
Bill,
The BT is mass produced in a foreign land like everything else this
country now uses.
Inside the box are two adjustable mini-pots. They were obviously set
wrong as the float voltage should be about 13.1 to 13.3 volts. If you
are handy you can change the float voltage pot. It is silicone'd to
hold its setting so a little exacto knifing has to be done to get the
pot to move. The pot change needed is "tiny" so if opened, go in baby
sets and always do the experiment with a battery connected to the
outputs and allow an hour or more for the new setting to stabilize.
Otherwise....just get another unit and test it thoroughly when opened
so you can take it back if the settings are wrong. Be sure to use a
good volt meter.
David
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
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----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Hibbing
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 9:26 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Battery tender
I've got a BatteryTender Plus that has a float voltage of 12.7
volts. This is on both a new battery and the one that is being
replaced. Is it time for a new Batterytender?
Bill
Glasair SIIS-FT
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08/09/10 13:35:00
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