---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 09/08/10: 12 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 03:51 AM - Re: Re: dim able strip LED lighting (rayj) 2. 04:34 AM - warning lamp for LR3C regulators (Jay Hyde) 3. 07:22 AM - Re: dim able strip LED lighting (Eric M. Jones) 4. 08:21 AM - Re: Thermally robust PM rectifier/regulators (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 5. 08:31 AM - Re: warning lamp for LR3C regulators (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 6. 08:32 AM - Mouser Packaging (user9253) 7. 08:58 AM - Re: warning lamp for LR3C regulators (Jay Hyde) 8. 09:41 AM - Re: warning lamp for LR3C regulators (CORRECTION) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 9. 10:45 AM - King KTR76TSO circuit breaker (Mike Welch) 10. 11:26 AM - Re: King KTR76TSO circuit breaker (Mike Welch) 11. 03:28 PM - LED PWM dimmer (jonlaury) 12. 08:03 PM - Re: warning lamp for LR3C regulators (CORRECTION) (Don) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 03:51:05 AM PST US From: rayj Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: dim able strip LED lighting Thought there might be issues. I'll look forward to seeing it. do not archive Thanks again, Raymond Julian Kettle River, MN On 09/07/2010 10:03 PM, Jim Wickert wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim > Wickert" > > Raymond, > > I will when we have finalized this section formally with our customer > and they have signed off on that part of the project. We have a IP > Intellectual Property clause issues on each item that we need to get > sign off for. But yes once this is signed off I will send this out > to the mass. > > Jim Wickert Vision #159 "Vision some will have it some will not" Tel > 920-467-0219 Cell 920-912-1014 > > > -----Original Message----- From: > owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of > rayj Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 6:57 PM To: > aeroelectric-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: > dim able strip LED lighting > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: > rayj > > Greetings Jim, > > I appreciate you sharing the info. Would it be possible to make the > balance of your research available? I certainly understand in you > choose not to, but I thought I'd ask. > > Thanks again for making this info available. > > do not archive > > Raymond Julian Kettle River, MN > > On 09/07/2010 09:51 AM, Jim Wickert wrote: >> Jim Wickert here, I have been following this thread and have the >> following to put up for added fodder. We have a Government Marine >> contract which we are working on that has a section for Night >> Illumination of Instrumentation and we are doing the scope research >> now. Below is some interesting information and food for thought. >> At this time our general consensus is Soft White Flood of panels? >> We have not released our findings to our customer however. Take >> care sorry for the amount of text but this is only a snip of the 13 >> page findings. >> >> FLITELite Light Color, Intensity& Night Vision: >> >> Pilots have a choice of FLITELite colors - NVIS White (more >> information on NVIS >> White), Soft White that is >> NVIS friendly, Green, Red and Blue. The best light choice is NVIS >> White, followed by soft white, for a light that will protect your >> central night vision and provide full spectrum light. Green and >> Blue will protect central night vision as well, but blues and >> greens will disappear with this color of light - something for a >> pilot to consider prior to use. Red is also available, which will >> protect peripheral night vision, but not central vision as well as >> the soft white, blue and green. Red's on charts will also not be >> visible with red light, another consideration for the pilot to >> consider when making a color choice. >> >> The eyes are comprised of Rods and Cones. We hear people talk about >> Rods being for night vision, and Cones for day vision, and while >> they both have their special attributes, it would be better to >> classify them in the aviation environment at Peripheral (Rods) and >> Central (Cones) vision. Both rods and cones have a day and night >> mode, and they both react to light at different rates, and to have >> sensitivity to different light frequencies. >> >> Rods surround the periphery of the eye and are used for peripheral >> vision, and night vision. They do not see color, and do not detect >> motion. Rods only provide non-color vision at an acuity of 20/200. >> Rods are most susceptible to blue light. You never read, or scan >> your instruments with your Rods - or your peripheral vision - think >> about it. You are reading this article with your central vision - >> your cones. >> >> Cones are used for color, central vision, with visual acuity of >> 20/20. The cones have a focal width of approximately 20 to 30 >> degrees. Cones are most susceptible to red light. >> >> Cones are used when you read, day or night. During the day we read >> with our cones - during the night we need a light to read - >> obvious, but it shatters the red light myth in the aviation >> cockpit. >> >> http://www.flitelite.com/isite/images/rcdist.gif >> >> So the question is what is the best light that will provide your >> eyes, and brain with the best light for reading? The answer is a >> dim white light. Look inside any of the new jets, and you will find >> that the lighting is white. Military cockpits specify NVIS White >> . NVIS White appears to >> have a green tint, but it is a full spectrum light. More on NVIS >> Compatibility >> >> FLITELite is set to a 25 degree field of view to maximize the >> physiology of the pilots eye. But to preserve night vision the >> intensity of the light is what matters. By using a full spectrum >> white light, the full spectrum light and low reflection reduces the >> amount of light needed. The 25 degree field is critical to keep the >> light out of our peripheral vision so we can look for traffic, and >> gauge height when we are making that perfect night landing. >> >> Under red light, magenta symbols disappear on charts, and during >> electrical failures, red markings on instruments and gauges are >> unreadable. Blue light will make Blue 100LL fuel disappear. >> >> Unaided night vision even now in the 21st century is still the >> subject of some controversy. >> >> For those just looking for an executive answer as to what >> supplemental lighting should be used to reduced the recovery time >> back to night vision (dark adapted or scotopic) here it is: a fully >> dimmable white light! This of course is a very incomplete answer >> but so are the answers red or blue-green and you should know why. >> >> Lets start with red, specifically what I will call the red light >> myth. >> >> I believe the myth started in the photographic darkroom. >> >> Until about 1906 most photosensitive material (plate, film, and >> paper) was not very sensitive to red. Some of these orthochromatic >> materials are still used. This allowed these materials to be dealt >> with for a short time under a relative bright red light because the >> human eye can see red if the level is bright enough. The fact that >> L.E.D.s (having a number of advantages over other light sources) >> were economically only available in red for some time has also help >> to perpetuate this myth. >> >> As more research about the eye was done it was found that the >> structure responsible for very low light vision, the rods, were >> also not very sensitive to red. >> >> It was assumed then that like film you could use red light, which >> is seen by the red sensitive cones (there are also blue and green >> sensitive cones to give color vision), without affecting the rods. >> >> It takes a while for true night vision to be recovered. About 10 >> minutes for 10%, 30-45 minutes for 80%, the rest may take hours, >> days, or a week. The issue is the chemical in the eye, rhodopsin - >> commonly called visual purple, is broken down quickly by light. The >> main issue then is intensity; color is only an issue because the >> rods (responsible for night vision) are most sensitive at a >> particular color. That color is a blue-green (507nm) similar to >> traffic light green (which is this color for a entirely different >> reason). It would seem that using the lowest brightness (using this >> color) additional light needed for a task is the best bet to retain >> this dark adaptation because it allows rods to function at their >> best. >> >> Unfortunately there are a number of drawbacks using only night >> vision. >> >> Among these are: >> >> * The inability to distinguish colors. * No detail can be seen >> (about the same as 20/200 vision in daylight). * That nothing can >> be seen directly in front of the eyes (no rods in the center of the >> retina), you must learn to look about 15-20 off center. * Only >> motion can be detected well, therefore you may have to learn to >> move your eyes to detect something that doesn't move. * Objects >> that aren't moving appear to move (autokinesis). This has probably >> led to a number of plane crashes. >> >> If you need to see directly in front of you or see detail you need >> red. Like many myths the red light myth has some basis in fact. The >> red truth? >> >> Why red? The center 1.5% of your retina (the fovea) which provides >> you with most detailed vision is packed almost exclusively with >> red sensitive cones. >> >> This is the same area that has no rods and is responsible for the >> night blind spot. There are fewer total green sensitive cones than >> red. The number of blue sensitive cones is very small compared to >> green and red. >> >> Which is just as well since the lens in the human eye cannot focus >> red and blue at the same time. And using green really only changes >> perceived brightness because of the way the signals are processed >> in our neural pathways. Unlike a digital camera, more pixels, in >> this case, doesn't give us more detail. >> >> rod density vs. conesChart showing the distribution of rods vs >> cones. Note the absence of rods in the center and the absence of >> both about 15 away from the the center toward the nose where the >> optic nerve passes. >> >> At first glance the tendency would be to pick the hue of red at >> which we are most sensitive (566nm) which would make sense except >> for the real reason: we don't want to involve the rods. The reason >> is the rods share the neural pathways with the cones so that you >> have this fuzzy image overriding the detailed one. This effect >> disappears at slightly higher mesopic levels which is why white is >> a good choice for most tasks. Many people look at the numbers for >> sensitivity for rods and cones and forget that in most cases the >> numbers have been adjusted so that rod peek sensitive matches cone >> peak. Rods are in fact sensitive well into the infrared (not too >> useful except to know that light you can barely sense can adversely >> impact your night vision). The key then is finding a hue that we >> can have at a high enough intensity that we can see the detail we >> need without activating our rods to the point where they obscure >> that detail. Most source say this should be nothing shorter than >> 650nm. Experimentation shows a L.E.D. with a peek around 700nm >> seems to work best (perceived as a deep red). Note that red may be >> fatiguing to the eyes. >> >> Conclusions: >> >> * No matter what your color choice it must be fully adjustable for >> intensity. * If you need the fastest dark adaptation recovery and >> can adjust to the limitations, or everyone in your group is using >> night vision equipment then blue-green. * If you must see detail >> (reading a star chart, or instrument settings) and can lose >> peripheral vision^ (see note 1) >> , then a very >> long wavelength red at a very low level. Red really only has an >> advantage at very low levels (were the night blind spot is very >> obvious). * A general walking around light so that you don't trip >> over the tripod, knock over equipment or bump into people, then >> blue-green with enough red added to get rid of the night blind >> spot, or maybe just use white. Blue-green at higher brightness also >> works very well and at a lower intensity than white. * If you need >> to see color and detail then likely the best choice is the dimmest >> white light for the shortest amount of time. * If you are in the >> military you must follow their rules; hopefully they will have a >> good course in unassisted night vision. * If you are a pilot and >> say you only fly in the day, you should be aware of the problems of >> night vision and should consider a basic (ground) course in night >> flying. * If you wonder why no one else has drawn these conclusions >> look at the dashboard of most cars. The markings are large, the >> pointers are large and an orange-red (a compromise, for certain >> "color blind" persons) and at night it is edge lit with blue-green >> filtered fully intensity adjustable light. >> >> For Best night vision: >> >> * Be sure you are getting enough vitamin A or its precursor >> beta-carotene in your diet (needed for the visual purple). * Green >> leafy stuff is best followed by vegetables that have an orange >> color. Yes that includes carrots but spinach or dark leaf lettuce >> are better. It is possible to get too much vitamin A especially as >> a supplement. * Keep up your general health. Smoking is also very >> bad for night vision, as are most illegal drugs and some >> prescription drugs. * Keep you blood sugar level as even as >> possible. No meal skipping. Six small meals are better than three >> large meals. For carbohydrates favor starches (potatoes, rice, and >> bread) over simple sugars (sweets, alcohol). * Use dark neutral >> gray sunglasses, that pass no more that 15% in full sun, when >> outside during the day. >> >> True night blindness is rare. Most of what people call night >> blindness is either a lack of vitamin A in the diet or a failure to >> understand the night blind spot. >> >> Cataracts, even minor ones, increase the effects of glare at night >> and the eye's lens does yellow and passes less light as we age >> which may contribute to what some call night blindness. >> >> Note: The red filtered light at the intensity most people use is >> likely decreasing night vision much more than a properly dimmed >> white or blue-green light would! >> >> Note: There are day blind spots also but are in a different >> position in each eye so are less of a problem. >> >> Note: Blue-green (also called cyan, turquoise, teal and other >> names) as used here is NOT the combination of two colors but is a >> single particular hue. I use the most common name for that hue. >> >> *Mil-STD 1472F 5.8.2.2 (table XVI) display lighting* >> >> >> >> Brightness of markings >> >> >> >> Condition of use >> >> >> >> Lighting Technique * >> >> >> >> cd/m^2 >> >> >> >> foot-lamberts >> >> >> >> Brightness Adjustment >> >> Indicator reading, dark adaptation necessary >> >> >> >> Red flood, indirect, or both, with operator choice >> >> >> >> 0.07-0.35 >> >> >> >> (0.02-0.1) >> >> >> >> Continuous throughout range >> >> Indicator reading, dark adaptation not necessary but desirable >> >> >> >> Red or low-color-temperature white flood, indirect, or both, with >> operator choice >> >> >> >> 0.07-3.5 >> >> >> >> (0.02-1.0) >> >> >> >> Continuous throughout range >> >> Indicator reading, dark adaptation not necessary >> >> >> >> White flood >> >> >> >> 3.5-70 >> >> >> >> (1-20) >> >> >> >> Fixed or continuous >> >> Panel monitoring, dark adaptation necessary >> >> >> >> Red edge lighting, red or white flood, or both, with operator >> choice >> >> >> >> 0.07-3.5 >> >> >> >> (0.02-1.0) >> >> >> >> Continuous throughout range >> >> Panel monitoring, dark adaptation not necessary >> >> >> >> White flood >> >> >> >> 35-70 >> >> >> >> (10-20) >> >> >> >> Fixed or continuous >> >> Possible exposure to bright flashes, restricted daylight >> >> >> >> White flood >> >> >> >> 35-70 >> >> >> >> (10-20) >> >> >> >> Fixed >> >> Chart reading, dark adaptation necessary >> >> >> >> Red or white flood with operator choice >> >> >> >> 0.35-3.50 >> >> >> >> (0.1-1.0) >> >> >> >> Continuous throughout range >> >> Chart reading, dark adaptation not necessary >> >> >> >> White flood >> >> >> >> 17-70 >> >> >> >> (5-20) >> >> >> >> Fixed or continuous >> >> >> * Where detection of ground vehicles or other protected assets by >> image intensifier night vision devices must be minimized, >> blue-green light (incandescent filament through a filter which >> passes only wave lengths shorter than 600 nm) should be used in >> lieu of red light. >> >> Possible error in original, read as: 0.07-0.35, likely occurred >> when converted to metric. >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> >> *This is intended only as an overview; no warranty of this information >> is expressed or implied* >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> >> [Update 17 Nov 2003] I find new myths are springing up. Such as >> blue-green L.E.D.s are emitting two colors of light. This is a >> mis-understanding of the color name and that this is the most >> accepted name for this one color. Another is that blue improves >> night vision. While at somewhat higher levels it, of course, is >> stimulating the rods. It is not an optimum color. Another long >> standing myth is that human visual perception is based on three >> colors when it is really based on four. The rods are usually >> ignored because many people believe, wrongly, that at the >> brightness at which we perceive color the rods are no longer >> providing our brains with any information. In fact the perception >> of brightness is highly influenced by the rods well into the >> photopic (bright light) range of vision. Fluorescent lamp >> manufacturers have used this knowledge for a long time. "Cool >> White" lamps have an additional amount of green phosphor added to >> make us "see" them as being brighter! Of course the whole subject >> of color vision and the variances thereof (wrongly called "color >> blindness") will require a number of new pages even in synopsis >> form. A point I forgot to cover is that to help preserve night >> vision in one eye the other may be closed or covered if you know >> you are about to be exposed to a brighter light, such as from a >> oncoming vehicle. For normal observation both eyes should be kept >> open. If it is difficult to concentrate on the desired image the >> eye not being used may be covered but not closed. Closing affects >> focus and possibly acuity. >> >> [Update 14 Dec 2003] A very important point barely mentioned in >> the original is that human peripheral vision is almost completely >> rod based! The implication then is that we cannot see color at the >> edges of our vision. If you think we can, try this simple >> experiment. You will need a small assortment of color cards (try >> sheets of construction paper) and someone to assist you. Sit >> looking straight ahead while youre assistant, about 6 to 10 feet >> away, slowly moves a random color card into the margin of your >> vision. Now, while still looking straight ahead, what color is the >> card? >> >> This is the second most important factor that has been ignored in >> the design of outdoor lighting, the first being glare! However this >> study >> >> >> (in pdf), at the U. S. Dept. of Transportation, is a subjective study of >> blue tinted headlamps. >> >> [Update 23 Jan 2004] A few random notes to be better integrated >> into this document later. Luminances are approximate and will vary >> with the individual and conditions. Vision luminance rage 1 * 10^-6 >> to 1 * 10^6 cd/M^2 Rods luminance rage 1 * 10^-6 to 1 * 10^3 cd/M^2 >> (may still play a roll above this range) Cones luminance rage 1 * >> 10^-3 to 1 * 10^6 cd/M^2 Explain "Purinke shift" 20/20 vision is >> the ability to resolve 1 minute of arc at 20 feet. Discuss Ricco's >> Law. Discuss afterimages. >> >> LITELite NVIS Compatibility >> >> MIL-STD-3009 was developed by the Department of Defense in February >> 2001 and superceded MIL-L-85762A. It specifies that NVIS White for >> crew cockpit and utility lighting. NVIS Green A is grand fathered >> into the cockpit for certain applications, but not for new >> applications. >> >> The chromacity of NVIS White makes it a full spectrum light even >> though is appears to have a green tint. Visible light can be split >> into the three primary colors, red, green and blue. The eye needs >> two primary colors to see 'white'. NVIS White, in simple terms is >> blue range through the green range. NVIS goggles filters allow a >> thin band of green light though the lens - so that users can see >> heads up displays and other required applications through the >> goggles. >> >> The level of light with respect to the chromacity is important due >> to this leak (filter) in the goggles. Other manufacturers claim to >> be the 'only authorized' lights produced since they meet a request >> for proposal standard. These claims are false - they have never >> tested FLITELite products how could they know? FLITELite meets and >> exceeds non-binding RFP standards, AND meets the modern, more >> stringent MIL-STD-3009, which is a binding requirement specified by >> the military. >> >> General Aviation pilots can benefit from this technology. This >> light spectrum and intensity is perfect for general night vision >> use as well. >> >> Read MIL-STD-3009 >> here. >> >> http://www.flitelite.com/isite/images/nvischart.jpg >> >> http://www.flitelite.com/isite/images/range.jpg >> >> FLITELite minimizes the crossover zone by using a special >> combination of LED's and Filter material. The filter material >> ensures that the light greater than 600 nm is not transmitted. >> >> http://www.flitelite.com/isite/images/nvissys.jpg >> >> Jim Wickert >> >> Vision #159 Vision some will have some will not >> >> Tel 920-467-0219 >> >> Cell 920-912-1014 >> >> *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf >> Of *Richard Girard *Sent:* Tuesday, September 07, 2010 8:35 AM >> *To:* aeroelectric-list@matronics.com *Subject:* Re: >> AeroElectric-List: Re: dim able strip LED lighting >> >> Using the example of Boeing and Airbus for cockpit lighting in a >> good example of not examining the application before making a >> decision, IMHO. When was the last time an airline crew really >> needed to have good night vision for looking outside the cockpit? >> Unless you plan on flying on instruments from takeoff to touchdown, >> or very nearly, is this the wise choice? >> >> Even using the military, particularly what the helicopter cockpits >> use, is questionable since their decision may have been driven as >> much by compatibility with night vision equipment as the human >> eye. >> >> Just exactly how much improvement is blue/green over red? Does the >> difference amount to anything more that picking the fly poop from >> the pepper, or are we dealing with an unquantifiable "coolness >> factor"? >> >> Rick Girard >> >> On Mon, Sep 6, 2010 at 10:04 PM, RV7ASask> > wrote: >> >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "RV7ASask" >> > >> >>>> This is an interesting dimmer. Does it have the noise problems >>>> that >> Bob was writing about? >> >> I am just finishing installing the radios so I can't tell you >> about noise problems at this time. More to follow. >> >> Weighing in on the color of the light. I said earlier 'Stick with >> White.' I think both Mr Boeing and Mr Airbus have opted for white >> in the cockpit and I think they got it right. >> >> David >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311626#311626 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> =========== - ric-List" >> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List >> >> ========== >> MS - k">http://forums.matronics.com =========== e - -Matt Dralle, >> List Admin. t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> ========== >> >> >> >> >> >> -- >> >> Zulu Delta >> >> Kolb Mk IIIC >> >> 582 Gray head >> >> 4.00 C gearbox >> >> 3 blade WD >> >> Thanks, Homer GBYM >> >> It is not bigotry to be certain we are right; but it is bigotry to >> be unable to imagine how we might possibly have gone wrong. >> >> - G.K. Chesterton >> >> * * >> >> * * >> >> ** >> >> ** >> >> ** >> >> ** >> >> ** >> >> ** >> >> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List* >> >> ** >> >> ** >> >> ** >> >> *http://forums.matronics.com* >> >> ** >> >> ** >> >> ** >> >> ** >> >> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* >> >> ** >> >> * * >> > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:34:23 AM PST US From: "Jay Hyde" Subject: AeroElectric-List: warning lamp for LR3C regulators Hey there Bob and all, I contacted B&C to ask whether the incandescent warning lamp (on pin 5) for the LR3C regulator could be replaced by an LED. They responded that it could be in the 14V version but that I would have to check with Bob about the 28V version. Is there any polarity that would need to be observed in the connection? Thanks South African Jay ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:22:40 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: dim able strip LED lighting From: "Eric M. Jones" Having an official (and permanent) FAA color vision waiver gives me a unique position to comment on cockpit lighting color...Ahem.... Miscellaneous notes: When I had bilateral lens replacements last year I got the opportunity to examine my eyeball lenses in a jar. They were both the color of tea. This change of color is what happens when you age. Remember that color vision studies (and their relevance in the cockpit) are all done on 18-25-year olds. Perhaps they are not so relevant for us geriatric aviators. Consider throwing in a low-power UV LED to the the ambient light. My opinion is that blue LEDs have been overused. For years, blue was under-used because LEDs didn't do it and incandescents had little blue and needed filtering. Automotive high-beam warning lights were a big driver for their development. Now our new dishwasher has these Zombie-Blue LEDs. Yuck. White light is best for reading paper charts. But reading paper maps is declining in importance with glass cockpits and computers. (You could make a paper chart that was designed for reading in red light... science project....) There are LEDs that do weird and wonderful things; they pulsate, gyrate, strobe and change colors. Now if you wanted a warning light that you absolutely couldn't ignore!...There ya' go. So do what you want generally consistent with safety, reasonableness and future saleability. Cold hearted orb that rules the night Removes the colours from our sight Red is gray and yellow, white But we decide which is right And which is an illusion.... (Moody Blues, Days of Future Past) -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones@charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311808#311808 ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:21:34 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Thermally robust PM rectifier/regulators At 01:56 PM 9/7/2010, you wrote: >I put an Ultraglide dynamo in a few years back for 32 amp output. I >probably don't load it up much, just lighting and ignition. > >Rick Hmmmm . . . here'a an opportunity for a really good science experiment . . . assuming it can be conducted with utility and safety on a motorcycle! A switchable load on the order of 28 amps or so (0.5 ohm, 500 watt resistor), voltmeter, ammeter and a temperature readout on r/r case and perhaps alternator wires. First see if the bus voltage really stays above 13.5 volts with the load on. Then see what the maximum temperatures are after they stabilize in cruise. What's the part number of the HD R/R? Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:31:19 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: warning lamp for LR3C regulators At 06:24 AM 9/8/2010, you wrote: >Hey there Bob and all, > >I contacted B&C to ask whether the incandescent warning lamp (on pin >5) for the LR3C regulator could be replaced by an LED. They >responded that it could be in the 14V version but that I would have >to check with Bob about the 28V version. Is there any polarity that >would need to be observed in the connection? Yes, both polarity AND resistors are important. See: http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/LR3_LV_Led_1.jpg For 28v raise resistors to 470 ohms. If the light is too bright, increase value of resistor in series with the lamp until desired brightness is attained. But for a warning light, you probably want to let it run "flat out". Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:32:58 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Mouser Packaging From: "user9253" Recently I ordered some items from Mouser. One of the items was a 4ft long piece of heat shrink tubing that cost 98 cents. Instead of coiling it up and putting it in the same package as the other items, Mouser packaged and shipped it separately in a 4-foot long box. Not only that, but they wrapped it in static proof plastic wrap! LOL I thought that either there was a new employee in the the shipping department or else someone was playing a practical joke on me. I sent an email to Mouser complaining about having to pay for separate shipping on an oversize box. There was no response to the email. Then I sent a letter via snail mail to customer service. Still no response. So then I called customer service and talked with Milly. She explained that they ship heat shrink in long boxes because customers complain if it is coiled up. I can understand that if a business orders a large quantity of heat shrink tubing, but not for one piece. I asked Milly how she would like it if she ordered a garden hose from Sears and they shipped it on a 50-foot flat bed truck. Milly agreed to give me a refund on shipping charges. So now I am satisfied and will continue to do business with Mouser. I am posting this as a warning to others who order heat shrink tubing to specify that it be coiled up, unless you want it shipped in a long box. Joe -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311822#311822 ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 08:58:39 AM PST US From: "Jay Hyde" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: warning lamp for LR3C regulators Thanks Bob! _____ From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III Sent: 08 September 2010 05:28 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: warning lamp for LR3C regulators At 06:24 AM 9/8/2010, you wrote: Hey there Bob and all, I contacted B&C to ask whether the incandescent warning lamp (on pin 5) for the LR3C regulator could be replaced by an LED. They responded that it could be in the 14V version but that I would have to check with Bob about the 28V version. Is there any polarity that would need to be observed in the connection? Yes, both polarity AND resistors are important. See: http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/LR3_LV_Led_1.jpg For 28v raise resistors to 470 ohms. If the light is too bright, increase value of resistor in series with the lamp until desired brightness is attained. But for a warning light, you probably want to let it run "flat out". Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 09:41:01 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: warning lamp for LR3C regulators (CORRECTION) At 06:24 AM 9/8/2010, you wrote: >Hey there Bob and all, > >I contacted B&C to ask whether the incandescent warning lamp (on pin >5) for the LR3C regulator could be replaced by an LED. They >responded that it could be in the 14V version but that I would have >to check with Bob about the 28V version. Is there any polarity that >would need to be observed in the connection? Yes, both polarity AND resistors are important. See: http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/LR3_LV_Led_1.jpg For 14v, 470 ohm resistors suffice. For 28v raise resistors to 1000 ohms. If the light is too bright, increase value of resistor in series with the lamp until desired brightness is attained. But for a warning light, you probably want to let it run "flat out". Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 10:45:05 AM PST US From: Mike Welch Subject: AeroElectric-List: King KTR76TSO circuit breaker Hi guys=2C Does anyone know the appropriate circuit breaker for the King KT76 transp onder? I'm having trouble finding the right Klixon to grab. It's looks like a 2 a mp will do=2C but I could use a avionics guy's advice. Oh yeah=2C what about wiring size=2C too. I was thinking 16 ga. tefzel. Thanks=2C Mike Welch ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 11:26:24 AM PST US From: Mike Welch Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: King KTR76TSO circuit breaker That "R" in the subject line was a free-loader. Disregard the typo. Mike From: mdnanwelch7@hotmail.com Subject: AeroElectric-List: King KTR76TSO circuit breaker Hi guys=2C Does anyone know the appropriate circuit breaker for the King KT76 transp onder? I'm having trouble finding the right Klixon to grab. It's looks like a 2 a mp will do=2C but I could use a avionics guy's advice. Oh yeah=2C what about wiring size=2C too. I was thinking 16 ga. tefzel. Thanks=2C Mike Welch ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 03:28:47 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: LED PWM dimmer From: "jonlaury" Are these a noise source? http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fhobby.htm%23Dimmer In archives there seems to be a preference for mechanical dimmers. I have a string of 4 LED's for which I could probably find an acceptable range of light by using a rotary switch and 4 different resistors. But it's another project I don't need if a 15 buck dimmer will not cause problems. John Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311870#311870 ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 08:03:54 PM PST US From: "Don" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: warning lamp for LR3C regulators (CORRECTION) Bob, I asked the same question at the end of July and the diagram you put out at that time said two 230 ohm resistors for 14 volt. I built the system that way and it works fine. I have not run the engine so I have not seen full voltage yet. Is the righer resistance needed for the higher voltage ? Just wondering and wanting to better understand my electrical system. Thanks. Don From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 9:37 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: warning lamp for LR3C regulators (CORRECTION) At 06:24 AM 9/8/2010, you wrote: Hey there Bob and all, I contacted B&C to ask whether the incandescent warning lamp (on pin 5) for the LR3C regulator could be replaced by an LED. They responded that it could be in the 14V version but that I would have to check with Bob about the 28V version. Is there any polarity that would need to be observed in the connection? Yes, both polarity AND resistors are important. See: http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/LR3_LV_Led_1.jpg For 14v, 470 ohm resistors suffice. For 28v raise resistors to 1000 ohms. If the light is too bright, increase value of resistor in series with the lamp until desired brightness is attained. But for a warning light, you probably want to let it run "flat out". Bob . . . ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message aeroelectric-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/aeroelectric-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/aeroelectric-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.