Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:59 AM - coil cord (Andy Hawes)
2. 05:53 AM - Re: Plane Power Alt. (Kevin Boddicker)
3. 06:26 AM - Re: Bob's take? (Dan Billingsley)
4. 07:31 AM - Gold contacts? (user9253)
5. 07:42 AM - Re: Z 10-8 review (user9253)
6. 07:43 AM - Z 10-8 review (Tim Andres)
7. 08:05 AM - Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch (user9253)
8. 08:11 AM - Re: Bob's take? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 08:11 AM - Re: Gold contacts? (Mike Welch)
10. 08:16 AM - Re: Re: Z 10-8 review (tim2542@sbcglobal.net)
11. 08:33 AM - Re: Gold contacts? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 08:34 AM - Re: Plane Power Alt. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 08:40 AM - Re: coil cord (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 08:49 AM - Re: coil cord (Andy Hawes)
15. 08:50 AM - Re: coil cord (Andy Hawes)
16. 09:07 AM - Re: Z10-8 Review (Jeff Page)
17. 09:37 AM - Re: Z10-8 Review (tim2542@sbcglobal.net)
18. 09:57 AM - Re: Radio Shack 3 row 15 pin d-Sub (rparigoris)
19. 01:18 PM - Re: coil cord (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 01:20 PM - Re: Re: Radio Shack 3 row 15 pin d-Sub (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 02:11 PM - Re: Radio Shack 3 row 15 pin d-Sub (rparigoris)
22. 03:49 PM - Re: Plane Power Alt. (Kevin Boddicker)
23. 05:50 PM - Re: coil cord (Andy Hawes)
24. 05:57 PM - Re: coil cord (Andy Hawes)
25. 08:02 PM - Re: Plane Power Alt. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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Wondering if anyone knows how I might obtain coil cord. Looking for a 5
wire, 22 gauge conduit via coil cord similar to a telephone handset to base
cord.
Thank you,
Andy
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Plane Power Alt. |
Yes,
I am using the basic Z-11, with a B&C over voltage/under voltage module wired to
trip a 5A breaker. In case of an OV event the contactor in the B lead would
open. Essentially I would have two OV systems. Both triggered by a 5A breaker.
Is there any harm or potential harm in this?
Thanks
Kevin
On Oct 5, 2010, at 10:17 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
> At 05:17 PM 10/5/2010, you wrote:
>
> Bob,
> I bought a Plane Power alternator and want to install it on my Tri Q 200. I have
the crowbar over voltage module, wired as per your recommendations. I will
be replacing a ND IR atl. for various reasons. The Plane Power is also IR. Can
I just hook the field wire to the same wire I have for the field wire on the
old unit. Their instructions lead me to believe it to be that simple. I have
a 5A circuit breaker in the current system, and that is what they call out. Am
I missing something?
>
> Last time I looked at the PP alternators, they
> had crowbar ov protection built in . . . See:
>
> http://plane-power.com/images/AL12_EI60%20Installation.pdf
>
> are you using something different that does not
> feature built in protection?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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Bob, Thanks for the time spent on this topic. It is interesting how easy it
can =0Abe to gather a differing opinion on what is going on "inside the wi
re". Very =0Ainformative take on how to determine the size of Batt cable...
it helped!=0AThanks again,=0ADan=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A____________________________
____=0AFrom: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>=0ATo
: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Tue, October 5, 2010 10:48:07 AM
=0ASubject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Bob's take?=0A=0A=0ABob, if you get a ch
ance, take a look at the Rotax list as there is an=0A>>interestiing differe
nce of opinion concerning Amps and wire sizes. I would =0Alike=0A>>your tak
e on it.=0A--- I've capture it to a thumb drive but it needs=0A--
- a LOT more attention to it than I have right=0A--- now. I'm heade
d back to M.L. in a few minutes=0A--- and I'll see if I can get to it
tonight or=0A--- in the morning.=0A- Okay, I got it done. See:=0A
=0Ahttp://tinyurl.com/25t4lh3 =0A=0A- You might suggest that those folks
=============== =0A
Message 4
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> Also that I should probably be using the gold contacts.
Gordon,
Gold contacts offer low resistance for low voltage instrument signals. However,
gold contacts can not handle large currents like strobe lights. Mouser.com
and Digikey.com offer a large selection of switches along with their ratings.
Keep in mind that snap action AC switches rated for 120vac or higher can also
handle the same current at 12vdc. The switches that came with my RV-12 kit from
Van's Aircraft are AC rated. AC rated switches also have a DC rating, even
if it is not published. Rocker switches might look cool, but they take up more
room on the panel and cost more than equally rated toggle switches.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314911#314911
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Subject: | Re: Z 10-8 review |
You might consider over-voltage protection, unless it is built into the alternator.
The avionics master switch is an unnecessary single point of failure.
Schematic looks good.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314912#314912
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<mailto:rnbraud@yahoo.com>
I have my plan drawn out and posted to my web site. I would appreciate
having the group look it over. There are notes on the page regarding design
goals and a different way of feeding the Aux battery I'm considering.
The application is a Cozy MK IV all electric, single mag, 1 EI, Single
Alternator and a brown out battery Thanks, comments appreciated.
Tim Andres
http://tinyurl.com/2c5kbzd
PS, I posted this to the group earlier, but evidently it did not go thru.
Sorry if this is a duplicate.
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Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
> do I still have OV protection from the 9024 module?
No, you do not. The bottom half of the switch needs to be in series with the circuit
breaker, not in parallel. Also, only one diode is needed.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314915#314915
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At 08:22 AM 10/6/2010, you wrote:
>Bob, Thanks for the time spent on this topic. It is interesting how
>easy it can be to gather a differing opinion on what is going on
>"inside the wire". Very informative take on how to determine the
>size of Batt cable...it helped!
>Thanks again, Dan
No problem. I've received a couple of private e-mails that
took me to task for what they perceived as a pejorative
effort personal to some of the thread-participants. None
of those individuals were subscribers to the AeroElectric-List.
I assured them that the mission throughout the AeroElectric
Connection sponsored activities is the discovery of physics
that drives simple-ideas and art for building OBAM
aircraft. It was interesting that so many words and ideas
(some wrong) were offered in a thread that did not go
to a practical answer for the original quester.
Thanks for bringing it to my attention. It was a useful
exercise for me too.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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> Gold contacts offer low resistance for low voltage instrument signals. Ho
wever=2C gold contacts can not handle large currents like strobe lights. Mo
user.com and Digikey.com offer a large selection of switches along with the
ir ratings. Keep in mind that snap action AC switches rated for 120vac or h
igher can also handle the same current at 12vdc. The switches that came wit
h my RV-12 kit from Van's Aircraft are AC rated. AC rated switches also hav
e a DC rating=2C even if it is not published. Rocker switches might look co
ol=2C but they take up more room on the panel and cost more than equally ra
ted toggle switches.
> Joe
Joe=2C Gordon=2C list members=2C
I was going to ask that very question a few days regarding the ability to
use an AC rated switch
for a DC operation. Thanks!! I have the Dornan 10A 125v AC switches that
I got from Auto Zone.
I am installing them in my panel presently.
Coincidently=2C I was also building the strobe system for my plane. I re
ad somewhere recently that the
reason switches have a bit of a problem working with strobes is due to arci
ng. Evidently=2C if the super
high voltage spark leaves behind a little residual voltage=2C this will cau
se arcing in the switch=2C and the arcing is
what destroys it. Someone suggested the remedy is to fix the tabs on the s
witch with a capacitor.
Supposedly=2C the capacitor will absorb this latent spark=2C and keep the s
witch in good shape.
I don't know if this is true=2C but someone said it in a blog I read rece
ntly=2C when I was doing some
research to see if my switches would work (and especially for the strobe).
I also don't remember the capacitor
rating they recommended=2C either. Has anyone heard of this=2C and know th
e correct size cap?
Mike Welch
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Z 10-8 review |
Thanks Joe
The Plane Power units have it built in. Also an Avioncs switch failure is not an
issue as most of the equip. can be fed with the Aux switch.
The Garmin and GRT equip. have dual feeds.
Thanks, Tim
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 6, 2010, at 7:39 AM, "user9253" <fran4sew@banyanol.com> wrote:
>
> You might consider over-voltage protection, unless it is built into the alternator.
> The avionics master switch is an unnecessary single point of failure.
> Schematic looks good.
> Joe
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314912#314912
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Gold contacts? |
> Also that I should probably be using the gold contacts.
Gordon,
Gold contacts offer low resistance for low voltage instrument
signals. However, gold contacts can not handle large currents like
strobe lights. Mouser.com and Digikey.com offer a large selection of
switches along with their ratings. Keep in mind that snap action AC
switches rated for 120vac or higher can also handle the same current
at 12vdc. The switches that came with my RV-12 kit from Van's
Aircraft are AC rated. AC rated switches also have a DC rating, even
if it is not published. Rocker switches might look cool, but they
take up more room on the panel and cost more than equally rated
toggle switches.
An excellent point Joe. I would elaborate by offering
the notion that the switch failures we've studied
here on the list had little to do with "current ratings".
Every failed device we studied exhibited the effects of
overheating at some location OTHER than mated contacts
within the switches. Combining this fact with a market
history going back 5 decades for these switches suggests
that the failures were precipitated by forces outside
design goals for the switch.
As you've noted, gold contacts are specialty products
useful only in VERY low current applications. Microswitch
suggests 1A as the upper limit for longevity in their
gold contact basic switches. Lower still is better yet.
Years ago at Beech we were buying $high$ crystal can
relays that were rated at 3A but came with gold plated
contacts.
Emacs!
The idea was that the designer could use ONE device to
populate both 'high' current and 'small signal' systems.
A fresh, out-of-the-box relay could be installed in
an instrumentation system that required consistency
of gold contacts . . . or you could install it in
a 2A service application and let the gold burn away
exposing the more ordinary silver-cadmium contacts.
Somebody in QA decided to do 100% receiving inspection
on these relays and guess what? They tested them
for a few dozen cycles at max rated current, blessed
them as 'functional' and put them back in the box.
It took some time and a LOT of dollars to figure
out why some of our VOR/LOC/GS and thermocouple
signal systems were failing. It then took more time
and dollars to figure out how many airplanes went
to the field with "tested and blessed" relays
installed in small signal locations.
This exercise prompted a change to call out
separate part numbers for the low-level and
high-level systems. All because it was less
expensive and more reliable to control the
configuration by part number than to educate every
individual in the supply chain as to the unique
features of the relay with an expectation that
they would leave them alone.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Plane Power Alt. |
At 07:50 AM 10/6/2010, you wrote:
Yes,
I am using the basic Z-11, with a B&C over voltage/under voltage
module wired to trip a 5A breaker. In case of an OV event
the contactor in the B lead would open. Essentially I would have two
OV systems.
Why two ov systems?
Both triggered by a 5A breaker. Is there any harm or potential harm in this?
No harm . . . but the rationale is mystifying.
Bob . . .
Message 13
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At 06:58 AM 10/6/2010, you wrote:
>
>Wondering if anyone knows how I might obtain coil cord. Looking for a 5
>wire, 22 gauge conduit via coil cord similar to a telephone handset to base
>cord.
That can be tough. I've had several custom coil
cords quoted for a product but as a general
rule, these are not an off-the-shelf product.
They are manufactured to a specific application.
Your best bet is to find an existing cord from
which you can cut out a length suitable to your
needs. The only thing I could find in a hurry . . .
http://tinyurl.com/2b9lmhv
Bob . . .
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Thank you -- I=B9ll give that a shot
On 10/6/10 10:38 AM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 06:58 AM 10/6/2010, you wrote:
>
>>
>> Wondering if anyone knows how I might obtain coil cord. Looking for a 5
>> wire, 22 gauge conduit via coil cord similar to a telephone handset to b
ase
>> cord.
>
> That can be tough. I've had several custom coil
> cords quoted for a product but as a general
> rule, these are not an off-the-shelf product.
> They are manufactured to a specific application.
>
> Your best bet is to find an existing cord from
> which you can cut out a length suitable to your
> needs. The only thing I could find in a hurry . . .
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2b9lmhv
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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|
Looks good to me. The gauge is off but I just need to carry a small 50 mA
current from a switch to a relay. Maybe 2 feet total.
Beautiful, thank you!
On 10/6/10 10:38 AM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 06:58 AM 10/6/2010, you wrote:
>>
>> Wondering if anyone knows how I might obtain coil cord. Looking for a 5
>> wire, 22 gauge conduit via coil cord similar to a telephone handset to base
>> cord.
>
> That can be tough. I've had several custom coil
> cords quoted for a product but as a general
> rule, these are not an off-the-shelf product.
> They are manufactured to a specific application.
>
> Your best bet is to find an existing cord from
> which you can cut out a length suitable to your
> needs. The only thing I could find in a hurry . . .
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2b9lmhv
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Z10-8 Review |
Tim,
Before you wire it, I suggest you check that the 430W Aircraft Power 1
and Aircraft Power 2 are internally isolated in some way. I suspect
(but do not know) that they are just connected together.
If so, then your clearance delivery switch will backfeed the entire
Avionics Bus, which is not what you intend.
Perhaps power the 430W Comm section, rather than the ICOM, since you
can transfer frequencies from the airport data instead of manually
entering them ?
Jeff Page
Dream Aircraft Tundra #10
> Time: 09:07:27 AM PST US
> From: "Tim Andres" <tim2542@sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Z10-8 review
>
> I have my plan drawn out and posted to my web site. I would appreciate
> having this group look it over. There are notes on the page regarding design
> goals and a different way of feeding the Aux battery I'm considering.
>
> Tim Andres
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2c5kbzd
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Z10-8 Review |
Thanks Jeff, good thoughts. I will verify on the 430 but I have been told this
is the intended purpose of the second power input. The GRT units are diode isolated.
The other thought is a good also, Thanks
Tim
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 6, 2010, at 9:04 AM, Jeff Page <jpx@qenesis.com> wrote:
>
> Tim,
>
> Before you wire it, I suggest you check that the 430W Aircraft Power 1 and Aircraft
Power 2 are internally isolated in some way. I suspect (but do not know)
that they are just connected together.
> If so, then your clearance delivery switch will backfeed the entire Avionics
Bus, which is not what you intend.
>
> Perhaps power the 430W Comm section, rather than the ICOM, since you can transfer
frequencies from the airport data instead of manually entering them ?
>
> Jeff Page
> Dream Aircraft Tundra #10
>
>
>> Time: 09:07:27 AM PST US
>> From: "Tim Andres" <tim2542@sbcglobal.net>
>> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Z10-8 review
>>
>> I have my plan drawn out and posted to my web site. I would appreciate
>> having this group look it over. There are notes on the page regarding design
>> goals and a different way of feeding the Aux battery I'm considering.
>>
>> Tim Andres
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/2c5kbzd
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Radio Shack 3 row 15 pin d-Sub |
After cutting off the ears, soldering the cases together and installing the wires,
it seems these connectors will do the trick while living inside my control
stick:
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=83510
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=83516
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=84258
Ron Parigoris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314936#314936
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At 10:50 AM 10/6/2010, you wrote:
>Looks good to me. The gauge is off but I just need to carry a small
>50 mA current from a switch to a relay. Maybe 2 feet total.
>
>Beautiful, thank you!
Just got home from the Post Office and had
an inspiration. I've been using the I-Go
universal automotive power adapters for
some years. The product consists of a switch-
mode power supply mounted in a cigar lighter
module . . .
Emacs!
The appliance-end of the device mounts a "power tip"
that not only mates with your appliance of choice, it communicates
with the power supply on the other end to customize
its output to be consistent with the appliance. When you
pull the adapter off we see . . .
Emacs!
Given the highly customized nature of this connector pair
and the huge production volumes, I doubt that they put
'extra' pins in the connector just for grins. but I could
be wrong. I'm reluctant to cut my adapter up but you can
get one from your local Radio Shack
http://tinyurl.com/29984nq
No doubt other electronics outlets sell them too. When you
cut the connector off, leave a long enough pig-tail so that
should you discover that the coil cord contains fewer than
your needed 5 wires (or my best-guess of 6 wires) you'll
at least be able to splice it back together and press it
into service elsewhere.
Another possible source is the "wall wart" box found
at many thrift stores. I've often found wall-warts having
ratings suitable to some task . . . then generally cost
$1.00 or less. I've seen automotive power cords in these
boxes too. One just MIGHT turn up an IGo cord.
Option 3. Just checked Ebay and purchased a power cord
for $4 including shipping. As soon as it gets here, I'll
dissect the thing and report findings to the group.
Bob . . .
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Radio Shack 3 row 15 pin d-Sub |
At 11:54 AM 10/6/2010, you wrote:
><rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
>After cutting off the ears, soldering the cases together and
>installing the wires, it seems these connectors will do the trick
>while living inside my control stick:
>
>http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=83510
>
>http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=83516
>
>http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=84258
Nice work my friend. I've captured your pictures and
plan to add them to the earlier article I published
on modified connectors. Thanks for sharing.
Bob . . .
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: Radio Shack 3 row 15 pin d-Sub |
Hi Bob
Thx. again for your advice.
I will share two other connector mods, your ides perhaps with a twist or two.
I needed to exit out of a 50 pin machined gold plated D-sub connector. There are
slim pickings for 50 pin covers no less something small, light and user friendly
(ability to tighten aft screw). I modified this connector using a thin stainless
tube (McMaster Carr) JB KWIKed to the side of the cover to allow tightening
of the aft stainless screw (heat shrink protection where wires will rest).
I used stainless cap screws from McMaster with a patch of adhesive on it. Kinda
like using suspenders and a belt, I also added a #3 star washer (#3 fits
#4 screw better IMHO), and a plastic thin washer underneath to hold the screw
captive:
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82017
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82020
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82023
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82026
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82032
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82029
Another D-sub connector I made a trapezoid shaped bracket to use it as a bulkhead
connector. As far as the cover, I had to thin a little so the stainless cap
screw adhesive ended up being the perfect length. I used the thin plastic washers
on the bottom to capture screw. I needed to turn the jackscrew standoffs
a little to fit with bracket and plastic washer (aluminium hex) extra thickness:
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82280
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82283
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=84179
Not quite sure if it falls in under a modification to a connector, but it is a
modification to holding the wires that go to the connector. On my port lower panel
insert there is not a real easy way to hold wires in place and allow install
and removal. I am using a piece of carbon fiber with double heat shrink where
it is trying to short the two legs of panel mount LEDs (CF conducts a little).
Thus i am using the panel mount LEDs to stand off the piece of CF which I
am tying wires to. I can't remember where i saw something similar, but pretty
sure it was on Aeroelectric:
See Lower port insert wiring 1 thru 5 near the bottom of page:
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=27305&g2_page=2
Ron Parigoris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314958#314958
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: Plane Power Alt. |
On Oct 6, 2010, at 10:32 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
>
>
> At 07:50 AM 10/6/2010, you wrote:
<trumanst@neitel.net>
>
> Yes,
> I am using the basic Z-11, with a B&C over voltage/under voltage
module wired to trip a 5A breaker. In case of an OV event the contactor
in the B lead would open. Essentially I would have two OV systems.
>
> Why two ov systems?
There is one built into my plane as it sits, using the module
that I bought from B&C BC207-1 and AEC9034-1,
And there is one built into the new plane power alt. I have the
module that will open the 5A breaker if there is an OV event with
my current ND alt. The module is also used to test an OV event, and
indicates low voltage.
Are you saying I should disconnect the OVM I got from B&C and
just use the OV protection built into the Plane Power alt.
>
> Both triggered by a 5A breaker. Is there any harm or potential harm in
this?
>
> No harm . . . but the rationale is mystifying.
I don't know if I should remove the OVM I got from B&C, or leave
it in place. If I leave it in place, I would have two sensors.
The OVM from B&C and what ever Plane Power uses. I will attach a
pic of the OVM. Hope it gets through.
Kevin
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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wow,
if this is a typical response from this group, I am very grateful.
Thanks very much Bob for your time here. I=B9ll definitely look into these
options.
Thanks again,
Andy
On 10/6/10 3:16 PM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 10:50 AM 10/6/2010, you wrote:
>> Looks good to me. The gauge is off but I just need to carry a small 50
mA
>> current from a switch to a relay. Maybe 2 feet total.
>>
>> Beautiful, thank you!
>
> Just got home from the Post Office and had
> an inspiration. I've been using the I-Go
> universal automotive power adapters for
> some years. The product consists of a switch-
> mode power supply mounted in a cigar lighter
> module . . .
>
>
>
> The appliance-end of the device mounts a "power tip"
> that not only mates with your appliance of choice, it communicates
> with the power supply on the other end to customize
> its output to be consistent with the appliance. When you
> pull the adapter off we see . . .
>
>
>
> Given the highly customized nature of this connector pair
> and the huge production volumes, I doubt that they put
> 'extra' pins in the connector just for grins. but I could
> be wrong. I'm reluctant to cut my adapter up but you can
> get one from your local Radio Shack
>
> http://tinyurl.com/29984nq
>
> No doubt other electronics outlets sell them too. When you
> cut the connector off, leave a long enough pig-tail so that
> should you discover that the coil cord contains fewer than
> your needed 5 wires (or my best-guess of 6 wires) you'll
> at least be able to splice it back together and press it
> into service elsewhere.
>
> Another possible source is the "wall wart" box found
> at many thrift stores. I've often found wall-warts having
> ratings suitable to some task . . . then generally cost
> $1.00 or less. I've seen automotive power cords in these
> boxes too. One just MIGHT turn up an IGo cord.
>
> Option 3. Just checked Ebay and purchased a power cord
> for $4 including shipping. As soon as it gets here, I'll
> dissect the thing and report findings to the group.
>
>
> Bob . . .
Message 24
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As well,
you got me thinking on doing a search for =B3coiled power cord=B2 and came
across this site:
http://www.philatron.com/NewCatalog/TAB7/Coiled_Cords_24-22Gauge.html
Not sure on pricing, I=B9ll check tomorrow.
Thanks again for the detailed research --
Andy
On 10/6/10 3:16 PM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 10:50 AM 10/6/2010, you wrote:
>> Looks good to me. The gauge is off but I just need to carry a small 50
mA
>> current from a switch to a relay. Maybe 2 feet total.
>>
>> Beautiful, thank you!
>
> Just got home from the Post Office and had
> an inspiration. I've been using the I-Go
> universal automotive power adapters for
> some years. The product consists of a switch-
> mode power supply mounted in a cigar lighter
> module . . .
>
>
>
> The appliance-end of the device mounts a "power tip"
> that not only mates with your appliance of choice, it communicates
> with the power supply on the other end to customize
> its output to be consistent with the appliance. When you
> pull the adapter off we see . . .
>
>
>
> Given the highly customized nature of this connector pair
> and the huge production volumes, I doubt that they put
> 'extra' pins in the connector just for grins. but I could
> be wrong. I'm reluctant to cut my adapter up but you can
> get one from your local Radio Shack
>
> http://tinyurl.com/29984nq
>
> No doubt other electronics outlets sell them too. When you
> cut the connector off, leave a long enough pig-tail so that
> should you discover that the coil cord contains fewer than
> your needed 5 wires (or my best-guess of 6 wires) you'll
> at least be able to splice it back together and press it
> into service elsewhere.
>
> Another possible source is the "wall wart" box found
> at many thrift stores. I've often found wall-warts having
> ratings suitable to some task . . . then generally cost
> $1.00 or less. I've seen automotive power cords in these
> boxes too. One just MIGHT turn up an IGo cord.
>
> Option 3. Just checked Ebay and purchased a power cord
> for $4 including shipping. As soon as it gets here, I'll
> dissect the thing and report findings to the group.
>
>
> Bob . . .
Message 25
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Subject: | Re: Plane Power Alt. |
Yes,
I am using the basic Z-11, with a B&C over voltage/under voltage
module wired to trip a 5A breaker. In case of an OV event the
contactor in the B lead would open. Essentially I would have two OV systems.
Okay, since the PlanePower product is self contained
and features ov protection I recommend you remove the
previously installed system. I.e., install the PP
alternator per manufacturer's instructions.
There is one built into my plane as it sits, using the module that I
bought from B&C BC207-1/AEC9034-1,
And there is one built into the new plane power alt. I have the
module that will open the 5A breaker if there is an OV event with my
current ND alt. The module is also used to test an OV event, and
indicates low voltage.
Are you saying I should disconnect the OVM I got from B&C and just
use the OV protection built into the Plane Power alt.
The BC207/AEC9034 is a simple OV/LV annunciator and has
no protective features. It was designed for very
small PM alternator/battery systems common to
the 2-cycle powered ultralights. In your case,
the OV warning would NEVER be expected to
operate because the ov protection system would
shut the system down so fast that you'll never
see an OV indication . . . only an LV indication
after the alternator is shut down.
The OVM from B&C and what ever Plane Power uses. I will attach a pic
of the OVM. Hope it gets through.
That's the legacy crowbar ov protection module
produced first by AEC, then by B&C and now by
both companies. Yes, take that unit out along
with the associated b-lead contactor.
Bob . . .
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