Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:15 AM - Re: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart (PHILLIPS I)
2. 06:44 AM - Re: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart (user9253)
3. 07:10 AM - Re: AUX Battery (user9253)
4. 07:30 AM - Re: AUX Battery (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 11:12 AM - MGL Avionics - Clip on ferrites for radio noise suppression (AZFlyer)
6. 05:20 PM - Re: MGL Avionics - Clip on ferrites for radio noise suppression (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 07:07 PM - Voltage Regulator Sense Wire Location (Rick Titsworth)
8. 10:07 PM - Re: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart (jerb)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
Hi
I am using a 12volt battery pack with built in inverter but my system is
only 12v,
http://www.northerntooluk.com/automotive-equipment/battery-chargers-and-cab
les/400w-emergency-power-source_2354E.html
But it shouldn=92t be too difficult to use two together for your 24v starts
,
it also come=92s with LED light and tyre pump,
Just a idea!
Ivor
On 20 October 2010 21:44, Ed Gilroy <egilroy@gmail.com> wrote:
> Here's a subject I have not seen discussed, as of yet, on the list or in
> Bob's Aero-Electric Connection:
>
> We would like to construct a 12 volt, 24 volt, and 110 volt ground power
> cart for powering electrical tools, etc. and for jumping our club airplan
es
> during the winters here in the wilds of Jersey. We have non-electrified
> outdoor tiedown spots.
>
> It would seem (2) 12 volt automotive batteries in series would be
> inexpensive and we would keep them charged via simple 12v solar chargers
> mounted on top of our storage shed. The 24V charging/inverting devices ar
e
> hundreds of dollars.
>
> So how might such a circuit look to "isolate" the batteries for 12 volt
> charging and occasional 120v inverter usage from the 12v side and still
> allow on-demand 24/28V "jumping"?
>
> My thinking says manually isolate the 24v series circuit until I want to
> "jump" and just throw a switch to go 24v with everything else physically
> disconnected. Or is there a more elegant solution? Idiot proof would be
> best, remember these are pilots !!!
>
> I have thought about this for some months but see no simple solution to
> provide this "isolation" function but then I am a BSCS, not an EE.
>
> Thanks... Ed
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
No matter how fool proof you make a dual voltage cart, it is only a matter of time
before someone uses the wrong voltage on the their plane. The damage caused
will be much greater than the cost of a second cart. So I suggest having two
carts, one for 12 volt and one for 24 volt. The carts can be clearly marked.
And it should be obvious that the cart with two batteries if for 24 volts.
Or how about just having one cart for 12 volts to take care of the majority
of aircraft. For the infrequent occasions when 24 volts are required, a spare
battery can be connected in series.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316573#316573
Message 3
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> Is there any reason to use a resistor in this configuration?
No, I see no reason to use a resistor. If someone else used a resistor, they should
be able to explain why. Just because some other builder wired their plane
wrong is no reason to do it the same way. There have been arguments on this
forum about what type of diode to use to minimize voltage drop. Using a resistor
does not minimize voltage drop.
If there is a reason for using a resistor, it would be interesting to know how
and why it was used.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316578#316578
Message 4
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At 08:34 PM 10/20/2010, you wrote:
>I'm designing my system using a small AUX Battery and single Alt. I
>want to charge the aux battery with a Schottkey diode. The AUX
>battery will power the avionics during start to prevent brown out
>and can be used as clearance delivery and/or a backup bus for the
>EFIS/430W GPS/Comm. Others I know of who have done it this way also
>used a 50 ohm resistor in series with the diode for reasons no one
>can really explain to me. The battery is a small 7ah sealed unit and
>I plan to charge it thru the diode and a 7.5 amp fuse. Is there any
>reason to use a resistor in this configuration?
No. In fact the ideal aux battery charging circuit
has a MINIMUM of voltage drop. The Shottky diode
offers the closest solid state solution with drops
averaging 0.3 to 0.5 volts. You can acquire these
devices packaged for user-friendly installations
from
https://matronics.com/aeroelectric/Catalog/AEC/9001/IM9001-700A.pdf
or
http://www.periheliondesign.com/powerschottkydiodesfiles/PowerSchottky%20Manual.pdf
or loose parts from electronics suppliers of various
sorts
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=MBRF40250TGOS-ND
Alternatively, you can achieve essentially zero-volts
drop for the charging circuit with incorporation of
an Aux Battery Management Module that closes a relay
between the two batteries only when the alternator is
running (bus rises above 13.0 volts).
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | MGL Avionics - Clip on ferrites for radio noise suppression |
Does anybody have first hand experience with the MGL ferrite beads or clip on ferrites
for radio noise suppression?
They seem to be a good added insurance during installation for EMI suppression
for VHF frequencies... and not very expensive.
Thanks for your feedback,
Mike
--------
Mike Miller @ millrml@aol.com
601 XL-B, 3300, Dynon
Remember, "the second mouse gets the cheese"!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316597#316597
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: MGL Avionics - Clip on ferrites for radio noise |
suppression
At 01:08 PM 10/21/2010, you wrote:
>
>Does anybody have first hand experience with the MGL ferrite beads
>or clip on ferrites for radio noise suppression?
>
>They seem to be a good added insurance during installation for EMI
>suppression for VHF frequencies... and not very expensive.
Assuming that the components of any particular suite
of avionics were designed and tested for use aboard
aircraft, then sprinkling ferrite beads on the bundles
to fend of 'gremlins' is about as practical as sprinkling
Transorbs on all wires to ward off 'spikes'.
There is no such thing as a totally quiet system . . . nor
is there a device that is immune from all levels of electro-
magnetic pestilence. But in a century of crafting electro-
whizzies for airplanes, a very comfortable balance has been
achieved between LIMITING the about of garbage a potential
antagonist produces paired with designing potential victims
for certain degrees of robustness. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Philosophy/Whats_all_this_DO160_Stuff_Anyhow.pdf
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/avmaster.pdf
So assuming further that the combination of equipment you're
installing has a successful service history in other
airplanes when installed per instructions, then likelihood
of encountering a noise problem is low. If a noise problem
IS discovered, it's almost bound to have roots in (1) poor
installation practices or (2) improper design for either
the victim or antagonist.
RFI beads are the least likely cures for 99+ percent
of all noise problems. I've never found them useful
on an airplane. I've never heard or read of anyone
including such devices in the elegant solution for
a system installed aboard any type certificated aircraft.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Voltage Regulator Sense Wire Location |
Bob,
I'm building a 28v Z-14 type dual-battery/dual-bus system with the voltage
regulators on the inside of the firewall and both 24v batteries in the tail
(for weight/balance considerations).
I have 1 LR3C regulator paired with the std Kelly alternator and 1 LS1A
regulator paired with a SD-20 alternator.
I'm curious, where is the "ideal" location to connect the voltage sense wire
(regulator terminal #3) to:
a) Routed back to the battery contactors (i.e. near the batteries)
b) Anywhere on the power bus(es) near the voltage regulators (i.e. inside of
the firewall power bus stud)
c) Through the firewall to the alternator
d) Doesn't really matter (option B for convenience)
I'm assuming I should also set-up/adjust the regulator/alternator output by
measuring the voltage back by the batteries.
Rick
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
There are some golf cart batteries that work better for solar
charging and can supply a good amount of current for jumping or
running inverters. If I recall right cast was around $70 each if I
recall right. If your interested I will ping my friend for info on
them. There being used by folks living off the grid. A lot of folks
are moving to isolated areas in preparation for the coming melt down.
jerb
At 03:44 PM 10/20/2010, you wrote:
>Here's a subject I have not seen discussed, as of yet, on the list
>or in Bob's Aero-Electric Connection:
>
>We would like to construct a 12 volt, 24 volt, and 110 volt ground
>power cart for powering electrical tools, etc. and for jumping our
>club airplanes during the winters here in the wilds of Jersey. We
>have non-electrified outdoor tiedown spots.
>
>It would seem (2) 12 volt automotive batteries in series would be
>inexpensive and we would keep them charged via simple 12v solar
>chargers mounted on top of our storage shed. The 24V
>charging/inverting devices are hundreds of dollars.
>
>So how might such a circuit look to "isolate" the batteries for 12
>volt charging and occasional 120v inverter usage from the 12v side
>and still allow on-demand 24/28V "jumping"?
>
>My thinking says manually isolate the 24v series circuit until I
>want to "jump" and just throw a switch to go 24v with everything
>else physically disconnected. Or is there a more elegant
>solution? Idiot proof would be best, remember these are pilots !!!
>
>I have thought about this for some months but see no simple solution
>to provide this "isolation" function but then I am a BSCS, not an EE.
>
>Thanks... Ed
>
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