AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Wed 10/27/10


Total Messages Posted: 20



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 08:18 AM - Ray Allen Pushbutton Wiring Question (Marty Santic)
     2. 08:18 AM - shielded comm radio question (Mike Welch)
     3. 09:38 AM - Vans tach (edward Clegg)
     4. 10:24 AM - Re: Ray Allen Pushbutton Wiring Question (Mike Nellis)
     5. 10:50 AM - Re: Vans tach ()
     6. 10:52 AM - Re: Ray Allen Pushbutton Wiring Question (Vern Little)
     7. 11:19 AM - Re: Ray Allen Pushbutton Wiring Question (rparigoris)
     8. 12:15 PM - Re: Ray Allen Pushbutton Wiring Question (S. Ramirez)
     9. 12:44 PM - Re: Ray Allen Pushbutton Wiring Question (ROGER & JEAN CURTIS)
    10. 01:57 PM - Re: Ray Allen Pushbutton Wiring Question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    11. 02:02 PM - Re: shielded comm radio question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    12. 02:05 PM - Re: Re: Right Angle BNC Fittings (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    13. 02:11 PM - Re: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    14. 02:14 PM - Re: electrical plug (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    15. 02:27 PM - Garmin 296 mini ound 9 pin pinout (Mike Welch)
    16. 03:18 PM - Re: Garmin 296 mini ound 9 pin pinout (Buckaroo Banzai)
    17. 03:45 PM - Re: Garmin 296 mini ound 9 pin pinout (Mike Welch)
    18. 06:52 PM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 10/25/10 (glen matejcek)
    19. 07:03 PM - Re: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart (glen matejcek)
    20. 09:25 PM - Re: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart (rayj)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 08:18:24 AM PST US
    Subject: Ray Allen Pushbutton Wiring Question
    From: Marty Santic <marty.santic@gmail.com>
    The wire supplied with the Ray Allen microphone PTT grip is very small. I would say it is #28 or #30. What is a good butt-splice to use for this application. -- Marty Santic


    Message 2


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    Time: 08:18:25 AM PST US
    From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7@hotmail.com>
    Subject: shielded comm radio question
    Hello group=2C Can someone with avionics wiring experience advise me whether or not I ne ed shielded wire for my Icom A200 power in and out. I will have a strobe ligh t system. I also have a King transponder. I have an ample supply 16AWG shielded tefzel. I've wired the +12V & gnd for the KT 76 with the shielded stuff so far. (maybe I didn't need to. ???) Should I use the shieded stuff for the Icom +12v & the ground=2C or the f lash tubes supply=2C or both? The Icom is the mobile vehicle style =2C with the CB radio type t ray (could be the same tray the airplane version uses). The factory wiring plug for the A200M use s just ordinary auto type wire. Surely they know lots of line vehicles have strobes=2C too. Ri ght?? I'm just not clear when shielded wire is really neccessary=2C or where it ought to be used. Thanks=2C MIke Welch


    Message 3


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    Time: 09:38:18 AM PST US
    Subject: Vans tach
    From: edward Clegg <edwclg@gmail.com>
    Those that are using Vans tachometers, have you had any problem with them. Mine after 223 hours is intermittent. That is it will go to zero and after a brief time go back to working normally. Is this a transducer problem or gauge. All wires have been checked. Thanks, Ed Clegg


    Message 4


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    Time: 10:24:37 AM PST US
    From: Mike Nellis <mike@bmnellis.com>
    Subject: Re: Ray Allen Pushbutton Wiring Question
    For wire that small a butt splice would not be apprpriate. Instead, soldering the wires together covered by heat shrink might be a better alternative. Mike > The wire supplied with the Ray Allen microphone PTT grip is very > small. I would say it is #28 or #30. What is a good butt-splice to > use for this application. > > -- > Marty Santic > > * > > > *


    Message 5


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    Time: 10:50:03 AM PST US
    Subject: Vans tach
    From: <longg@pjm.com>
    My Vans transducer is brand new and I can already tell it's a piece of junk. When I spin it by hand it gets stuck in the grove. Your cable is either broken inside or it's about too. I'll be really surprised if I get 233 hours out of it. I've read from some that the backside of the tip can be filed down so it doesn't catch so much. Personally, if there is a better option, I'm all ears. Glenn E. Long -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of edward Clegg Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2010 12:34 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Vans tach Those that are using Vans tachometers, have you had any problem with them. Mine after 223 hours is intermittent. That is it will go to zero and after a brief time go back to working normally. Is this a transducer problem or gauge. All wires have been checked. Thanks, Ed Clegg


    Message 6


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    Time: 10:52:40 AM PST US
    From: "Vern Little" <sprocket@vx-aviation.com>
    Subject: Re: Ray Allen Pushbutton Wiring Question
    Alternatively, use male and female crimp pins for a D-Sub connector and heat shrink them together. From: Mike Nellis Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2010 10:18 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ray Allen Pushbutton Wiring Question For wire that small a butt splice would not be apprpriate. Instead, soldering the wires together covered by heat shrink might be a better alternative. Mike The wire supplied with the Ray Allen microphone PTT grip is very small. I would say it is #28 or #30. What is a good butt-splice to use for this application. -- Marty Santic ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 06:34:00


    Message 7


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    Time: 11:19:06 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Ray Allen Pushbutton Wiring Question
    From: "rparigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
    You could also use solder type D-sub connectors with heat shrink. I used the High Density 3 row D-sub connectors from Radio Shack modified to fit inside my stick. See last 3 pics: http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=31671 Ron Parigoris Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317232#317232


    Message 8


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    Time: 12:15:37 PM PST US
    From: "S. Ramirez" <simon@synchdes.com>
    Subject: Re: Ray Allen Pushbutton Wiring Question
    These PICABOND butt splices are made by Tyco for the telephone cable industry. I have the part drawing PDF if anyone needs it. Digi-Key pn 61899-1-ND, Tyco connector butt splice, 24-28 AWG, orange, 61899-1, $.21 each http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/1914216-conn-splice-butt-24-28awg-orange-61899-1.html Simon Ramirez LEZ N-44LZ Oviedo, FL USA On 10/27/2010 1:49 PM, Vern Little wrote: Alternatively, use male and female crimp pins for a D-Sub connector and heat shrink them together. *From:* Mike Nellis <mailto:mike@bmnellis.com> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 27, 2010 10:18 AM *To:* aeroelectric-list@matronics.com <mailto:aeroelectric-list@matronics.com> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: Ray Allen Pushbutton Wiring Question For wire that small a butt splice would not be apprpriate. Instead, soldering the wires together covered by heat shrink might be a better alternative. Mike > The wire supplied with the Ray Allen microphone PTT grip is very > small. I would say it is #28 or #30. What is a good butt-splice to > use for this application. > > -- > Marty Santic


    Message 9


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    Time: 12:44:06 PM PST US
    From: "ROGER & JEAN CURTIS" <mrspudandcompany@verizon.net>
    Subject: Ray Allen Pushbutton Wiring Question
    These PICABOND butt splices are made by Tyco for the telephone cable industry. I have the part drawing PDF if anyone needs it. Digi-Key pn 61899-1-ND, Tyco connector butt splice, 24-28 AWG, orange, 61899-1, $.21 each http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/1914216-conn-splice-butt-24-28awg-orange -61 899-1.html Simon Ramirez Simon, Do these splices require a special crimping tool? At what price? Roger


    Message 10


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    Time: 01:57:15 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Ray Allen Pushbutton Wiring Question
    At 10:13 AM 10/27/2010, you wrote: >The wire supplied with the Ray Allen microphone PTT grip is very >small. I would say it is #28 or #30. What is a good butt-splice to >use for this application. Solder and heat-shrink. See: http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Solder_Lap_Splicing/Solder_Lap_Splices.html Bob . . .


    Message 11


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    Time: 02:02:35 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: shielded comm radio question
    At 10:14 AM 10/27/2010, you wrote: >Hello group, > > Can someone with avionics wiring experience advise me whether or not I need >shielded wire for my Icom A200 power in and out. I will have a >strobe light system. I also have >a King transponder. > > I have an ample supply 16AWG shielded tefzel. I've wired the > +12V & gnd for the KT 76 >with the shielded stuff so far. (maybe I didn't need to. ???) > > Should I use the shieded stuff for the Icom +12v & the ground, or > the flash tubes supply, >or both? The Icom is the mobile vehicle style , with the CB radio >type tray (could be the same >tray the airplane version uses). The factory wiring plug for the >A200M uses just ordinary auto >type wire. Surely they know lots of line vehicles have strobes, too. Right?? > > I'm just not clear when shielded wire is really neccessary, or > where it ought to be used. Suggest you review chapters on noise in the 'Connection. Shielding is a hedge against a particular form of coupling (electro-static) between a potential antagonist and a potential victim. Unless specifically called out in the manufacturer's installation instructions, don't bother. Shielding of power lines is never useful. If manufacturer's data does show shielded wire on power leads, I'd like to know about it. Bob . . .


    Message 12


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    Time: 02:05:59 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Right Angle BNC Fittings
    At 10:08 AM 10/26/2010, you wrote: >For what it's worth, here's one data point for you. >I used a 90 degree BNC adapter between my transponder antenna and >the coax and the transponder would not work. It was an adapter, not >a connector. I switched to a straight coax to antenna connection >(just barely had enough room) and it worked fine. >I have since sworn off ever again using a 90 degree BNC adapter. But Stan, there have been gazillions of right angle adapters produced and no doubt successfully used in as many situations. The fact that you suffered one instance of a failed installation would be worthy of a failure analysis. There is probably a logical cause for the effect that has nothing to do with whether any particular combination of connectors was installed. Bob . . .


    Message 13


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    Time: 02:11:23 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart
    At 10:08 PM 10/24/2010, you wrote: >Bob, > >For your consideration. Sorry . . . been out of town for a couple days. Dr. Dee had to move her offices at the college. I've been helping with cleaning, painting and repairing. Yeah, they do have folks that take care of those things, when it works into their schedule. We got it move-in-ready in two days. The scheme you show would work too. Bob . . .


    Message 14


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    Time: 02:14:21 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: electrical plug
    At 11:38 PM 10/24/2010, you wrote: > > > I think I'll go with the DB9, and combine two pins for the Icom > and the King transponder. > > > Do grounds go through this connector too? > > They need to be as robust as the power > > feeder pins. Also, it's common practice with > >any new design to have spare pins in any > >connector to allow for future expansion > >without having to re-wire a connector. > >We used to shoot for 15 to 20% spares. > >Suggest you consider a larger connector > >especially if you need to add grounds too. > > > Bob . . . > >Hi Bob, > > Yes, I plan on running the ground thru the DB connector. I was > going to allocate >four pins to supply the ground connection for the front panel. My >plan is the main ground >wire be #12AWG, leading down to the 4-way split to the (4ea) #16AWG >soldered to each pin. >The recepticle connector then gets the same treatment for ground, >i.e.(4ea) #16AWG back to >#12AWG, with the ground wire terminating at a buss bar. ???? Dsub pins are designed for 20AWG max. Suggest you carry the four ground pins all the way on 20AWG. Use two for one radio, two for the other.. > > Since I mentioned DB9 earlier, I just left that plug in the > conversation. The fact is, after >counting and leaving a couple of pins as spares, I am actually getting a DB15. > >The pin allocation was planned to be this; > >After using two pins each for the Icom and the King transponder, one >each for the Dynon and >Garmin 296, and four for the ground, this makes ten pins so >far. Using one pin to light the >instrument lights, and one for some super tiny current drawers (like >the Dynon alarm circuit >you drew for me), I'm left with at least three spares. I could even >include the Dynon alarm >power in with the instrument lights, and be left with 4 extra pins. Bob . . .


    Message 15


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    Time: 02:27:31 PM PST US
    From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Garmin 296 mini ound 9 pin pinout
    Bob=2C Thanks for the reply re: the shielded cable. I'll do the review you ment ioned. No=2C I didn't see anyone's recommending the shielded wires. I was just trying to avoid a potential problem=2C since wiring changes at this stage is simple compared to doing a repair lat er. ___________________________________________________________________________ ___ Now=2C for this post=3B for the last hour and a half I've been scouring the internet looking for the Garmin 296 pinout. The best I could come up with is the list of the 9 item s in the connector=2C but nothing so far that identifies which one is which. Could someone direct me to a link of the Garmin GPSMAP 296 pinout. I hav e the bare cable and am intending on hard wiring the unit for my Air Gizmo Panel Dock? Thanks again=2C Bob=2C and thanks for anyone that can find the 296's pino ut. Mike


    Message 16


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    Time: 03:18:11 PM PST US
    From: Buckaroo Banzai <ornerycuss2001@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Garmin 296 mini ound 9 pin pinout
    Go to the Garmin website and download their manuals.- There's a pinout ne ar the end of (I think) the pilot's manual. https://buy.garmin.com/shop/store/manual.jsp?product=010-00356-00&cID=1 69&pID=6399 --- On Wed, 10/27/10, Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7@hotmail.com> wrote: From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7@hotmail.com> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Garmin 296 mini ound 9 pin pinout =0A=0A=0ABob,- =0A- =0A- Thanks for the reply re: the shielded cable.- I'll do the review y ou mentioned.- No, I didn't =0Asee anyone's recommending the shielded wires.- I was just trying to av oid a potential problem, =0Asince wiring changes at this stage is simple compared to doing a repair later. =0A________________________________________________________________________ ______ =0A- =0A- =0A- Now, for this post;- for the last hour and a half I've been scouri ng the internet looking for the =0AGarmin 296 pinout.- The best I could come up with is the list of the 9 items in the connector, but =0Anothing so far that identifies which one is which. =0A- =0A- Could someone direct me to a link of the Garmin GPSMAP 296 pinout. - I have the bare cable =0Aand am intending on hard wiring the unit for my Air Gizmo Panel Dock? =0A- =0A- Thanks again, Bob, and thanks for anyone that can find the 296's pin out. =0A- =0AMike ========================0A=0A =0A=0A=0A


    Message 17


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    Time: 03:45:35 PM PST US
    From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Garmin 296 mini ound 9 pin pinout
    >Go to the Garmin website and download their manuals. There's a pinout nea r the end of >(I think) the pilot's manual. >https://buy.garmin.com/shop/store/manual.jsp?product=010-00356-00&cID= 169&pID=6399 Thanks a ton=2C Buck. I had gone to their website=2C but for the life of m e I sure couldn't find the pinout. Mike


    Message 18


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    Time: 06:52:05 PM PST US
    From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
    Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 10/25/10
    Yep, that looks like the ticket. It is in fact already configured for the task at hand. The only reservations I'd have are the cost and size. In my cursory explorations they have both been rather large, although neither seem to be listed for this particular unit. Glen Matejcek aerobubba@earthlink.net > > Time: 08:26:26 AM PST US > From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7@hotmail.com> > Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart > > > > You know=2C the thing that would make the 12 - 24v battery cart zippy wou > ld be a DPDT knife switch > >I wonder if such a thing is still available=2C especially in some sort of > surpluss house... > > > > Glen Matejcek > > > Glen=2C > > You mean like this=3B > > http://www.wirthco.com/12/24-volt-heavy-equipment-switch-p-66-l-en.html > > Although it isn't configured exactly yet=2C it wouldn't be but a very min > or mod to make it so. > > I think you are right. This would be a very simple solution!! > > Mike Welch >


    Message 19


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    Time: 07:03:47 PM PST US
    From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
    Subject: RE: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart
    Whupps- looks like I hit send a smidge too soon... the size is listed on another tab and would be entirely fine at 4-3/4"W x 6-3/8" L x 2"H. Were it mounted in a recess behind a hinged piece of plex such that the plex naturally fell over the switch to cover it, it would be protected from accidental tool-induced shorts while it's position would still be visible. Then about the only pilot-proofing issue would be avoiding plugging the unit into a 12v system while configured for 24v. Glen Matejcek aerobubba@earthlink.ne


    Message 20


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    Time: 09:25:49 PM PST US
    From: rayj <raymondj@frontiernet.net>
    Subject: Re: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart
    Bob,thanks for looking at it. I, Raymond Julian, do hereby formally release the design into the wild.:) If anyone builds one I would be interested in hearing about it or seeing pictures. Raymond Julian Kettle River, MN On 10/27/2010 04:10 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> > > At 10:08 PM 10/24/2010, you wrote: >> Bob, >> >> For your consideration. > > Sorry . . . been out of town for a couple days. Dr. Dee > had to move her offices at the college. I've been helping > with cleaning, painting and repairing. Yeah, they do > have folks that take care of those things, when it works > into their schedule. We got it move-in-ready in two days. > > The scheme you show would work too. > > > Bob . . . > >




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