Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:16 AM - D-subminiature Connectors ()
2. 06:13 AM - Re: Digikey substitution on 9021-620 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 06:29 AM - Re: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 08:59 AM - Re: Digikey substitution on 9021-620 (Jared Yates)
5. 09:37 AM - Re: Digikey substitution on 9021-620 (Richard E. Tasker)
6. 11:05 AM - Re: Digikey substitution on 9021-620 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 07:38 PM - Re: D-subminiature Connectors ()
Message 1
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Subject: | D-subminiature Connectors |
10/30/2010
Hello Fergus, You wrote: "..... how to replace the usual jack screws on
D-sub connector shells ..."
You could try this solution -- see posting copied below:
======================================================
From: <bakerocb(at)cox.net> Subject: D-subminiature Connectors Date:
5/29/2010
Hello Fellow Builders, Here is what we are writing about:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D-subminiature
Bob Nuckolls writes: "It's a fact that the majority of d-sub connectors come
with
short, slotted-head 4-40 jack screws that are EXCEEDINGLY
difficult to work with in confined spaces traversed by wire
bundles." ..and ... "the inconvenience of stock, slot-head jack-screws."
{RESPONSE} He offers a screw handling solution here:
http://tinyurl.com/34nrdd5
I'd like to offer another solution -- use #4-40 machine screws with hex
socket (Allen wrench) drive heads. The hex socket drive head allows one to
manuever the small screws in a manner vastly superior to a straight slot or
phillips drive head screw.
See here for a source of such screws:
http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/products/SSC.cfm
Here is just one source of tools for handling these screws:
http://www.bondhus.com/
Conventional Allen wrenches work fine for most handling of these screws, but
these Prohold tools will give even more control if needed:
http://www.bondhus.com/features/prohold/body-0.htm
'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
understand knowledge."
PS: An aerospace vehicle with hex socket or Torx / six lobe / star drive
fasteners is much easier to work on than a vehicle with straight slot or
Phillips drive fasteners. See here for some handy tool kits to work with the
hex socket or Torx / six lobe / star drive fasteners:
http://www.chapmanmfg.com/
======================================================
Time: 09:27:36 AM PST USFrom: Fergus Kyle <VE3LVO@rac.ca>Subject:
AeroElectric-List: an aeroelectric connection article Cheers,
I recall a recent article by Bob which showed how to replace the
usual jack screws on D-sub connector shells with modified 4-40 hardware
threaded rod (?) and 4-40 hex standoffs. I can't find it but it would answer
most of my D-Sub concerns behind the instrument panel.
Any suggestions as to source amiably respected.......
Ferg
VE3LVO@rac.ca
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Digikey substitution on 9021-620 |
At 03:41 PM 10/29/2010, you wrote:
>
>On the low voltage warning module the bill of materials calls out a
>digikey p2015 and lists that as a 1.0uf 16v tantalum capacitor.
>Digikey says that the p2015 is non-stock, but is a 22ufd 6.3v tantalum
>capacitor. Has anyone resolved this discrepancy and found an updated
>digikey part number? This is c111 in the drawings.
The parts called out on our drawings were components
suited to the task at the time the device was in
production. The cataloging of components is in a
constant state of change. Further, it's not uncommon
for there to be dozens of components from many
manufacturers equally suited to the task.
Launching into a DIY project offers far more than
the opportunity to melt a little solder. Changes
in minute details of ingredients that go into the
recipe for success throw up small challenges to
venture into the catalogs and find alternatives in
that have the same or suitably close ratings that
will still fit on the board.
In this array of small parts drawers
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/Shop_1.jpg
there are thousands of components that have been in my
inventory for anywhere between a few days and 40 years.
Very few are still offered under the same catalog or
manufacturer's numbers as the day they were purchased.
Yet all have capabilities that make them good substitutes
for their modern descendants.
The bill of materials in our DIY projects are
best described as the trail head for an adventure
in the study of component performance and
interchangeability.
Look for any dipped tantalum, 1.0 uF, 16v or
more that will fit the holes.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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Subject: | Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
At 10:28 AM 10/29/2010, you wrote:
>
>I was thinking also that using power solenoid relays, the type used on RVs
>it would be possible to install two power cables with differing physical
>characteristics that would automatically fire the solenoids to give the
>correct voltage... That way you couldn't ever hit your 14V system with a
>28V boost. You could also just use the 12V connector for charging. It may
>require that your connectors have switches close to them.
The 'professional' carts are virtually all
configured for 12/24 with high current contactors.
I started to publish a drawing suggesting that
approach.
Then I began to consider how often the OBAM
aircraft owner/operator would make use of the
device and did some trade-offs for cost of
acquisition/ownership versus frequency of
need.
As a spam can jocky, I think I needed the
support of a ground power cart perhaps three
or four times in 1000+ hours and 30 years.
For the half year we owned the airport at
Benton, we never pulled out the battery
cart even once.
So how much $time$ is appropriate for the
acquisition of a battery cart for personal
use? This is a question that each builder
has to consider for themselves. The answers
may range from two batteries in a Radio Flyer
wagon and an array of jumper cables . . . up
to an including a killobuck Hobart gound-power
cart.
The approach I suggested was my assessment of
a low $time$ approach that offered all the
necessary capabilities for getting an engine
started on either 14 or 28v aircraft which
exploited the hands-on approach to fabrication
that is deeply rooted in OBAM aviation.
It takes about $100 worth of contactors to
do the 12/24 switching. The bill of materials
for a manual 'patch panel' is much less
expensive and can be acquired at any well
stocked hardware store. The choices are
many. The basic schematic for the contactor
based battery cart was published by another
reader last week I believe.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Digikey substitution on 9021-620 |
Thanks. If I can substitute the 16v voltage rating there are some choices with
higher ratings.
Relative to the level of adventure required to obtain the circuit boards it should
all be downhill from here, right?
On Oct 30, 2010, at 9:12, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
wrote:
>
> At 03:41 PM 10/29/2010, you wrote:
>>
>> On the low voltage warning module the bill of materials calls out a
>> digikey p2015 and lists that as a 1.0uf 16v tantalum capacitor.
>> Digikey says that the p2015 is non-stock, but is a 22ufd 6.3v tantalum
>> capacitor. Has anyone resolved this discrepancy and found an updated
>> digikey part number? This is c111 in the drawings.
>
> The parts called out on our drawings were components
> suited to the task at the time the device was in
> production. The cataloging of components is in a
> constant state of change. Further, it's not uncommon
> for there to be dozens of components from many
> manufacturers equally suited to the task.
>
> Launching into a DIY project offers far more than
> the opportunity to melt a little solder. Changes
> in minute details of ingredients that go into the
> recipe for success throw up small challenges to
> venture into the catalogs and find alternatives in
> that have the same or suitably close ratings that
> will still fit on the board.
>
> In this array of small parts drawers
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/Shop_1.jpg
>
> there are thousands of components that have been in my
> inventory for anywhere between a few days and 40 years.
> Very few are still offered under the same catalog or
> manufacturer's numbers as the day they were purchased.
> Yet all have capabilities that make them good substitutes
> for their modern descendants.
>
> The bill of materials in our DIY projects are
> best described as the trail head for an adventure
> in the study of component performance and
> interchangeability.
>
> Look for any dipped tantalum, 1.0 uF, 16v or
> more that will fit the holes.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Digikey substitution on 9021-620 |
With capacitors a higher voltage rating is perfectly fine. Depending on
the actual circuit design, a lower voltage is sometimes acceptable.
When I design a circuit I usually pick a readily available capacitor
with a voltage rating of 2X what it really has to be for safety margin.
Sometimes the voltage needed is very low and a capacitor is chosen
solely on availability and cost.
Frequently the value chosen is somewhat arbitrary as well.. It depends
on what the capacitor is used for in the circuit. If it is purely for
voltage filtering or noise reduction, higher value is usually acceptable
and sometimes better. If it is part of a precision circuit of some sort
(timing, filter network such as low-pass, band-pass, etc) the value is
more critical.
For most commercial or industrial designs the value and voltage is
chosen based on whatever will do the job required for the least cost.
My $0.02...
Dick Tasker
Jared Yates wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jared Yates<email@jaredyates.com>
>
> Thanks. If I can substitute the 16v voltage rating there are some choices with
higher ratings.
> Relative to the level of adventure required to obtain the circuit boards it should
all be downhill from here, right?
>
>
> On Oct 30, 2010, at 9:12, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
wrote:
>
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>>
>> At 03:41 PM 10/29/2010, you wrote:
>>
>>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jared Yates<email@jaredyates.com>
>>>
>>> On the low voltage warning module the bill of materials calls out a
>>> digikey p2015 and lists that as a 1.0uf 16v tantalum capacitor.
>>> Digikey says that the p2015 is non-stock, but is a 22ufd 6.3v tantalum
>>> capacitor. Has anyone resolved this discrepancy and found an updated
>>> digikey part number? This is c111 in the drawings.
>>>
>> The parts called out on our drawings were components
>> suited to the task at the time the device was in
>> production. The cataloging of components is in a
>> constant state of change. Further, it's not uncommon
>> for there to be dozens of components from many
>> manufacturers equally suited to the task.
>>
>> Launching into a DIY project offers far more than
>> the opportunity to melt a little solder. Changes
>> in minute details of ingredients that go into the
>> recipe for success throw up small challenges to
>> venture into the catalogs and find alternatives in
>> that have the same or suitably close ratings that
>> will still fit on the board.
>>
>> In this array of small parts drawers
>>
>> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/Shop_1.jpg
>>
>> there are thousands of components that have been in my
>> inventory for anywhere between a few days and 40 years.
>> Very few are still offered under the same catalog or
>> manufacturer's numbers as the day they were purchased.
>> Yet all have capabilities that make them good substitutes
>> for their modern descendants.
>>
>> The bill of materials in our DIY projects are
>> best described as the trail head for an adventure
>> in the study of component performance and
>> interchangeability.
>>
>> Look for any dipped tantalum, 1.0 uF, 16v or
>> more that will fit the holes.
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
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Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Digikey substitution on 9021-620 |
At 10:55 AM 10/30/2010, you wrote:
>
>Thanks. If I can substitute the 16v voltage rating there are some
>choices with higher ratings.
>Relative to the level of adventure required to obtain the circuit
>boards it should all be downhill from here, right?
One never knows. 200 years ago our most successful inhabitants
of the frontier began educating their children in survival lore
as soon as they could walk and talk. Today not so much. But
we do have huge resources for materials, recipes for success
and mentorship along with the communications tools for exploiting
them.
I can tell you that even today, a significant number of first,
second and perhaps third passes at a new endeavor go into my
trash can before I build one that I can bolt to an airplane.
If we did not accept a certain amount of risk, then there
would be no incentive to do anything new . . . and we'd all
be working on wood, fabric and Model-A powered airplanes.
So "down hill" ? ? ? Depends on your present tool box of
skills and experiences. But for sure, staying with this project
until it plays to your satisfaction will add considerable
investment capital to invest in future endeavors. If you get
really jammed up . . .send the assembly to me and I'll put
the meters to it.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: D-subminiature Connectors |
10/30/2010
Hello Fergus, Got the picture. Here is a solution. Go to the Chapman Mfg Co
web site:
http://www.chapmanmfg.com/
On that web site you will find that one of their tools is a very clever,
short swing ratchet. Specifically this tool here:
http://www.chapmanmfg.com/aboutourtools.html
This ratchet is used by putting one of the hex drive adapters into the
ratchet. If the adapter is put into the ratchet from one side the ratchet
will rotate the adapter clockwise (in). If the adapter is put into the
ratchet from the other side the ratchet will rotate the adapter
counterclockwise (out).
You can start the hex socket drive 4-40 machine screw either by hand or by
using the adapter as a handle for the machine screw. Once the screw is
started, and there is enough friction to permit the ratchet to function as a
ratchet, you can put the adapter into the ratchet, feel the adapter into the
screw head socket, and ratchet away to tighten the machine screw.
Chapman standard kit # 4320 should get you started, but you might want to
look over some of the other kits available as well. I keep one Chapman kit
in the hangar and one Chapman kit in my pickup truck. I need to handle both
hex socket drive machine screws and Torx drive machine screws.
'OC' Baker Says: "The best investment we can make is the time and effort to
gather and understand knowledge."
PS: I keep one of these kits with me in my airplane at all times -- you may
prefer one of them to the Chapman kits:
http://www.newmantools.com/wfmc.htm
==============================================
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 10:08 AM
Subject: FW: D-subminiature Connectors
>
>
> From: f.kyle@sympatico.ca [mailto:f.kyle@sympatico.ca] On Behalf Of Fergus
> Kyle
> Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 9:37 AM
> To: 0ferg
> Subject: RE: D-subminiature Connectors
>
>
> OC:
>
> Thanks for your quick and complete treatise on the D-sub
> dilemma....!
>
> My problem is the application of D-sub components in modules buried
> in the instrument panel such that the connectors must be applied backwards
> (i.e: from the front of the aircraft BACK onto the sockets on the Front of
> the modules with one hand in the sub-panel. Thus only screws which can be
> applied by the one hand BACKWARDS from the seat may be used. I chose 3/16"
> hex for the heads of same because I can hand-tighten them then apply a
> small
> 3/16" wrench to fully tighten same. It's hard to explain, but slotted or
> hexhead holes won't work due to components nearby.
>
> Hope this came out OK. Dotted line is the route to tighten screw
> despite obstruction, i.e: No room for in-line tightener such as slotted
> driver, etc.
>
> All the best
>
> Ferg
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