---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 10/30/10: 7 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:16 AM - D-subminiature Connectors () 2. 06:13 AM - Re: Digikey substitution on 9021-620 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 3. 06:29 AM - Re: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 4. 08:59 AM - Re: Digikey substitution on 9021-620 (Jared Yates) 5. 09:37 AM - Re: Digikey substitution on 9021-620 (Richard E. Tasker) 6. 11:05 AM - Re: Digikey substitution on 9021-620 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 7. 07:38 PM - Re: D-subminiature Connectors () ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:16:14 AM PST US From: Subject: AeroElectric-List: D-subminiature Connectors 10/30/2010 Hello Fergus, You wrote: "..... how to replace the usual jack screws on D-sub connector shells ..." You could try this solution -- see posting copied below: ====================================================== From: Subject: D-subminiature Connectors Date: 5/29/2010 Hello Fellow Builders, Here is what we are writing about: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D-subminiature Bob Nuckolls writes: "It's a fact that the majority of d-sub connectors come with short, slotted-head 4-40 jack screws that are EXCEEDINGLY difficult to work with in confined spaces traversed by wire bundles." ..and ... "the inconvenience of stock, slot-head jack-screws." {RESPONSE} He offers a screw handling solution here: http://tinyurl.com/34nrdd5 I'd like to offer another solution -- use #4-40 machine screws with hex socket (Allen wrench) drive heads. The hex socket drive head allows one to manuever the small screws in a manner vastly superior to a straight slot or phillips drive head screw. See here for a source of such screws: http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/products/SSC.cfm Here is just one source of tools for handling these screws: http://www.bondhus.com/ Conventional Allen wrenches work fine for most handling of these screws, but these Prohold tools will give even more control if needed: http://www.bondhus.com/features/prohold/body-0.htm 'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and understand knowledge." PS: An aerospace vehicle with hex socket or Torx / six lobe / star drive fasteners is much easier to work on than a vehicle with straight slot or Phillips drive fasteners. See here for some handy tool kits to work with the hex socket or Torx / six lobe / star drive fasteners: http://www.chapmanmfg.com/ ====================================================== Time: 09:27:36 AM PST USFrom: Fergus Kyle Subject: AeroElectric-List: an aeroelectric connection article Cheers, I recall a recent article by Bob which showed how to replace the usual jack screws on D-sub connector shells with modified 4-40 hardware threaded rod (?) and 4-40 hex standoffs. I can't find it but it would answer most of my D-Sub concerns behind the instrument panel. Any suggestions as to source amiably respected....... Ferg VE3LVO@rac.ca ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:13:26 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Digikey substitution on 9021-620 At 03:41 PM 10/29/2010, you wrote: > >On the low voltage warning module the bill of materials calls out a >digikey p2015 and lists that as a 1.0uf 16v tantalum capacitor. >Digikey says that the p2015 is non-stock, but is a 22ufd 6.3v tantalum >capacitor. Has anyone resolved this discrepancy and found an updated >digikey part number? This is c111 in the drawings. The parts called out on our drawings were components suited to the task at the time the device was in production. The cataloging of components is in a constant state of change. Further, it's not uncommon for there to be dozens of components from many manufacturers equally suited to the task. Launching into a DIY project offers far more than the opportunity to melt a little solder. Changes in minute details of ingredients that go into the recipe for success throw up small challenges to venture into the catalogs and find alternatives in that have the same or suitably close ratings that will still fit on the board. In this array of small parts drawers http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/Shop_1.jpg there are thousands of components that have been in my inventory for anywhere between a few days and 40 years. Very few are still offered under the same catalog or manufacturer's numbers as the day they were purchased. Yet all have capabilities that make them good substitutes for their modern descendants. The bill of materials in our DIY projects are best described as the trail head for an adventure in the study of component performance and interchangeability. Look for any dipped tantalum, 1.0 uF, 16v or more that will fit the holes. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:29:54 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart At 10:28 AM 10/29/2010, you wrote: > >I was thinking also that using power solenoid relays, the type used on RVs >it would be possible to install two power cables with differing physical >characteristics that would automatically fire the solenoids to give the >correct voltage... That way you couldn't ever hit your 14V system with a >28V boost. You could also just use the 12V connector for charging. It may >require that your connectors have switches close to them. The 'professional' carts are virtually all configured for 12/24 with high current contactors. I started to publish a drawing suggesting that approach. Then I began to consider how often the OBAM aircraft owner/operator would make use of the device and did some trade-offs for cost of acquisition/ownership versus frequency of need. As a spam can jocky, I think I needed the support of a ground power cart perhaps three or four times in 1000+ hours and 30 years. For the half year we owned the airport at Benton, we never pulled out the battery cart even once. So how much $time$ is appropriate for the acquisition of a battery cart for personal use? This is a question that each builder has to consider for themselves. The answers may range from two batteries in a Radio Flyer wagon and an array of jumper cables . . . up to an including a killobuck Hobart gound-power cart. The approach I suggested was my assessment of a low $time$ approach that offered all the necessary capabilities for getting an engine started on either 14 or 28v aircraft which exploited the hands-on approach to fabrication that is deeply rooted in OBAM aviation. It takes about $100 worth of contactors to do the 12/24 switching. The bill of materials for a manual 'patch panel' is much less expensive and can be acquired at any well stocked hardware store. The choices are many. The basic schematic for the contactor based battery cart was published by another reader last week I believe. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:59:06 AM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Digikey substitution on 9021-620 From: Jared Yates Thanks. If I can substitute the 16v voltage rating there are some choices with higher ratings. Relative to the level of adventure required to obtain the circuit boards it should all be downhill from here, right? On Oct 30, 2010, at 9:12, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote: > > At 03:41 PM 10/29/2010, you wrote: >> >> On the low voltage warning module the bill of materials calls out a >> digikey p2015 and lists that as a 1.0uf 16v tantalum capacitor. >> Digikey says that the p2015 is non-stock, but is a 22ufd 6.3v tantalum >> capacitor. Has anyone resolved this discrepancy and found an updated >> digikey part number? This is c111 in the drawings. > > The parts called out on our drawings were components > suited to the task at the time the device was in > production. The cataloging of components is in a > constant state of change. Further, it's not uncommon > for there to be dozens of components from many > manufacturers equally suited to the task. > > Launching into a DIY project offers far more than > the opportunity to melt a little solder. Changes > in minute details of ingredients that go into the > recipe for success throw up small challenges to > venture into the catalogs and find alternatives in > that have the same or suitably close ratings that > will still fit on the board. > > In this array of small parts drawers > > http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/Shop_1.jpg > > there are thousands of components that have been in my > inventory for anywhere between a few days and 40 years. > Very few are still offered under the same catalog or > manufacturer's numbers as the day they were purchased. > Yet all have capabilities that make them good substitutes > for their modern descendants. > > The bill of materials in our DIY projects are > best described as the trail head for an adventure > in the study of component performance and > interchangeability. > > Look for any dipped tantalum, 1.0 uF, 16v or > more that will fit the holes. > > > Bob . . . > > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 09:37:56 AM PST US From: "Richard E. Tasker" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Digikey substitution on 9021-620 With capacitors a higher voltage rating is perfectly fine. Depending on the actual circuit design, a lower voltage is sometimes acceptable. When I design a circuit I usually pick a readily available capacitor with a voltage rating of 2X what it really has to be for safety margin. Sometimes the voltage needed is very low and a capacitor is chosen solely on availability and cost. Frequently the value chosen is somewhat arbitrary as well.. It depends on what the capacitor is used for in the circuit. If it is purely for voltage filtering or noise reduction, higher value is usually acceptable and sometimes better. If it is part of a precision circuit of some sort (timing, filter network such as low-pass, band-pass, etc) the value is more critical. For most commercial or industrial designs the value and voltage is chosen based on whatever will do the job required for the least cost. My $0.02... Dick Tasker Jared Yates wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jared Yates > > Thanks. If I can substitute the 16v voltage rating there are some choices with higher ratings. > Relative to the level of adventure required to obtain the circuit boards it should all be downhill from here, right? > > > On Oct 30, 2010, at 9:12, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote: > > >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" >> >> At 03:41 PM 10/29/2010, you wrote: >> >>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jared Yates >>> >>> On the low voltage warning module the bill of materials calls out a >>> digikey p2015 and lists that as a 1.0uf 16v tantalum capacitor. >>> Digikey says that the p2015 is non-stock, but is a 22ufd 6.3v tantalum >>> capacitor. Has anyone resolved this discrepancy and found an updated >>> digikey part number? This is c111 in the drawings. >>> >> The parts called out on our drawings were components >> suited to the task at the time the device was in >> production. The cataloging of components is in a >> constant state of change. Further, it's not uncommon >> for there to be dozens of components from many >> manufacturers equally suited to the task. >> >> Launching into a DIY project offers far more than >> the opportunity to melt a little solder. Changes >> in minute details of ingredients that go into the >> recipe for success throw up small challenges to >> venture into the catalogs and find alternatives in >> that have the same or suitably close ratings that >> will still fit on the board. >> >> In this array of small parts drawers >> >> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/Shop_1.jpg >> >> there are thousands of components that have been in my >> inventory for anywhere between a few days and 40 years. >> Very few are still offered under the same catalog or >> manufacturer's numbers as the day they were purchased. >> Yet all have capabilities that make them good substitutes >> for their modern descendants. >> >> The bill of materials in our DIY projects are >> best described as the trail head for an adventure >> in the study of component performance and >> interchangeability. >> >> Look for any dipped tantalum, 1.0 uF, 16v or >> more that will fit the holes. >> >> >> Bob . . . >> >> >> >> >> > > > -- Please Note: No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however, that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced. -- ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 11:05:14 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Digikey substitution on 9021-620 At 10:55 AM 10/30/2010, you wrote: > >Thanks. If I can substitute the 16v voltage rating there are some >choices with higher ratings. >Relative to the level of adventure required to obtain the circuit >boards it should all be downhill from here, right? One never knows. 200 years ago our most successful inhabitants of the frontier began educating their children in survival lore as soon as they could walk and talk. Today not so much. But we do have huge resources for materials, recipes for success and mentorship along with the communications tools for exploiting them. I can tell you that even today, a significant number of first, second and perhaps third passes at a new endeavor go into my trash can before I build one that I can bolt to an airplane. If we did not accept a certain amount of risk, then there would be no incentive to do anything new . . . and we'd all be working on wood, fabric and Model-A powered airplanes. So "down hill" ? ? ? Depends on your present tool box of skills and experiences. But for sure, staying with this project until it plays to your satisfaction will add considerable investment capital to invest in future endeavors. If you get really jammed up . . .send the assembly to me and I'll put the meters to it. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:38:28 PM PST US From: Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: D-subminiature Connectors 10/30/2010 Hello Fergus, Got the picture. Here is a solution. Go to the Chapman Mfg Co web site: http://www.chapmanmfg.com/ On that web site you will find that one of their tools is a very clever, short swing ratchet. Specifically this tool here: http://www.chapmanmfg.com/aboutourtools.html This ratchet is used by putting one of the hex drive adapters into the ratchet. If the adapter is put into the ratchet from one side the ratchet will rotate the adapter clockwise (in). If the adapter is put into the ratchet from the other side the ratchet will rotate the adapter counterclockwise (out). You can start the hex socket drive 4-40 machine screw either by hand or by using the adapter as a handle for the machine screw. Once the screw is started, and there is enough friction to permit the ratchet to function as a ratchet, you can put the adapter into the ratchet, feel the adapter into the screw head socket, and ratchet away to tighten the machine screw. Chapman standard kit # 4320 should get you started, but you might want to look over some of the other kits available as well. I keep one Chapman kit in the hangar and one Chapman kit in my pickup truck. I need to handle both hex socket drive machine screws and Torx drive machine screws. 'OC' Baker Says: "The best investment we can make is the time and effort to gather and understand knowledge." PS: I keep one of these kits with me in my airplane at all times -- you may prefer one of them to the Chapman kits: http://www.newmantools.com/wfmc.htm ============================================== ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fergus Kyle" Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 10:08 AM Subject: FW: D-subminiature Connectors > > > From: f.kyle@sympatico.ca [mailto:f.kyle@sympatico.ca] On Behalf Of Fergus > Kyle > Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 9:37 AM > To: 0ferg > Subject: RE: D-subminiature Connectors > > > OC: > > Thanks for your quick and complete treatise on the D-sub > dilemma....! > > My problem is the application of D-sub components in modules buried > in the instrument panel such that the connectors must be applied backwards > (i.e: from the front of the aircraft BACK onto the sockets on the Front of > the modules with one hand in the sub-panel. Thus only screws which can be > applied by the one hand BACKWARDS from the seat may be used. I chose 3/16" > hex for the heads of same because I can hand-tighten them then apply a > small > 3/16" wrench to fully tighten same. It's hard to explain, but slotted or > hexhead holes won't work due to components nearby. > > Hope this came out OK. Dotted line is the route to tighten screw > despite obstruction, i.e: No room for in-line tightener such as slotted > driver, etc. > > All the best > > Ferg ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message aeroelectric-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/aeroelectric-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/aeroelectric-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.