Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:43 AM - Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. (Andrew Zachar)
2. 08:26 AM - Re: Re:battery location change (Roger)
3. 11:03 AM - Re: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. (Richard Tasker)
4. 12:49 PM - Re: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. (Vern Little)
5. 01:07 PM - Re: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. (David LLoyd)
6. 01:10 PM - Re: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. (Andrew Zachar)
7. 01:18 PM - Re: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. (Dj Merrill)
8. 01:28 PM - Re: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. (Andrew Zachar)
9. 03:12 PM - Re: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 05:02 PM - Squeaky Wheeling (jonlaury)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. |
Good morning, everyone.
The last time I had my B&C flasher hooked up, I thought it was a little
fast. I did some experimentation over the weekend, and I thought I would
share my results.
A post on the this list last week made me think it would be much easier to
fix than I thought. Vern: "My fix was to open up the wig-wag flasher and
replace the electrolytic capacitor with a larger value, slowing the flash
rate down."
After eagerly writing Vern back, he elaborated, "You should only find one
capacitor. It's a metal can with a plastic case. Try doubling the
capacitance (in microfarads). It's not critical.
You can just pry open the bottom to release the tabs and slide the cover
off."
Sweet. I went outside and got to work.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-007-large.jpg
The cover was surprisingly easy to pry off.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-008-large.jpg
There's the capacitor, on the upper left. Let's see, this is a 4.7 =B5F
capacitor.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-009-large.jpg
I'll go by a 10=B5F and 20=B5F to try out.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-013-large.jpg
I fired up my (new, because I polished the old one's tip for devinyling
help) soldering gun and heated up the solder on the back of the board enoug
h
to pull the old capacitor out.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-014-large.jpg
Sweet. That was easier than I thought it would be.
Here's the 10=B5F capacitor installed.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-015-large.jpg
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-016-large.jpg
Not great, but not terrible either. (My first REAL soldering.)
So, I put the thing back together and fired it up.
This is the fast version, from my previous post with the 4.7 uF capacitor..
.
http://videos.videopress.com/h02JJyop/20101020_hd.mp4
And with the 10 uF capacitor...
http://videos.videopress.com/kxRChhjU/20101107-002_hd.mp4
I used an online "beat-tapper" (http://www.all8.com/tools/bpm.htm) to
calculate the old flash rate (85 Hz, from light 1 on to light 1 on again)
and the new flash rate (45 Hz).
I like 45 Hz. I'm thinking I might try the 20=B5F version, just to see how
slow it is. But, I'm calling this a huge success. (Thanks Vern, for showing
me how easy this would be.)
(I'm giving up on the flashing of the 4 MR16 HIDs in the wingtip. I think
I'm going to use steady HID leading edge landing lights, and flash my taxi
lights (which may still end up in the wingtips.))
--
Andrew Zachar
andrew.d.zachar@gmail.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re:battery location change |
Jim,
How far back are you moving the batteries? You may want to move the
solenoids along with the batteries so as not to compromise the
protection of the fat wires, afforded by the solenoids. Then you will
need to bring 2 fat wires back to the original connections, for +12V and
ground.
Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: James Robinson
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2010 12:05 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re:battery location change
Good Evening Bob
I have the 2 alternator , 2 batteries, setup in my Glasair. this has
been a problem free system since it's inception. I am needing to change
the location of the batteries for weitht and balance and interference
problems. Currently the batteries and the all the control solenoids are
on the engine side of the firewall with 2 power and 1 gnd thru the
firewall connections. Do I need to add 2 more thru the firewall
connections to get the power back out to the solenoids from the
repositioned batteries or is there a more efficient way to reconfigure
the system. I am not at home so I can't consult the original diagram.
Thanks as always for your expert help in these matters.
Jim
James Robinson
Glasair lll N79R
Spanish Fork UT U77
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. |
Depending on exactly where this is mounted, you might want to use a glob
of RTV to stabilize the capacitor against vibration. I am surprised
that they didn't use any on the original, although if this is a car
flasher, I suppose they assumed it would be mounted in a low vibration
environment under the dash.
Dick Tasker
P.S. Your soldering looks fine!
Andrew Zachar wrote:
>
> Good morning, everyone.
>
>
> The last time I had my B&C flasher hooked up, I thought it was a
> little fast. I did some experimentation over the weekend, and I
> thought I would share my results.
>
> A post on the this list last week made me think it would be much
> easier to fix than I thought. Vern: "My fix was to open up the wig-wag
> flasher and replace the electrolytic capacitor with a larger value,
> slowing the flash rate down."
>
>
> After eagerly writing Vern back, he elaborated, "You should only find
> one capacitor. It's a metal can with a plastic case. Try doubling the
> capacitance (in microfarads). It's not critical.
>
> You can just pry open the bottom to release the tabs and slide the
> cover off."
>
> Sweet. I went outside and got to work.
>
> http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-007-large.jpg
>
> The cover was surprisingly easy to pry off.
>
>
> http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-008-large.jpg
>
>
> There's the capacitor, on the upper left. Let's see, this is a 4.7 F
> capacitor.
>
>
> http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-009-large.jpg
>
>
> I'll go by a 10F and 20F to try out.
>
>
> http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-013-large.jpg
>
>
> I fired up my (new, because I polished the old one's tip for
> devinyling help) soldering gun and heated up the solder on the back of
> the board enough to pull the old capacitor out.
>
> http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-014-large.jpg
>
>
> Sweet. That was easier than I thought it would be.
>
> Here's the 10F capacitor installed.
>
>
> http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-015-large.jpg
>
> http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-016-large.jpg
>
> Not great, but not terrible either. (My first REAL soldering.)
>
> So, I put the thing back together and fired it up.
>
> This is the fast version, from my previous post with the 4.7 uF
> capacitor...
>
> http://videos.videopress.com/h02JJyop/20101020_hd.mp4
>
> And with the 10 uF capacitor...
>
> http://videos.videopress.com/kxRChhjU/20101107-002_hd.mp4
>
> I used an online "beat-tapper" (http://www.all8.com/tools/bpm.htm) to
> calculate the old flash rate (85 Hz, from light 1 on to light 1 on
> again) and the new flash rate (45 Hz).
>
>
> I like 45 Hz. I'm thinking I might try the 20F version, just to see
> how slow it is. But, I'm calling this a huge success. (Thanks Vern,
> for showing me how easy this would be.)
>
>
> (I'm giving up on the flashing of the 4 MR16 HIDs in the wingtip. I
> think I'm going to use steady HID leading edge landing lights, and
> flash my taxi lights (which may still end up in the wingtips.))
>
> --
> Andrew Zachar
> andrew.d.zachar@gmail.com <mailto:andrew.d.zachar@gmail.com>
> *
>
> *
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. |
Wow, Andrew, what a great tutorial! If you have a website, you should
publish this. If not, let me know and I can put it up on my site.
Vern
From: Andrew Zachar
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2010 7:38 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher.
Good morning, everyone.
The last time I had my B&C flasher hooked up, I thought it was a little
fast. I did some experimentation over the weekend, and I thought I would
share my results.
A post on the this list last week made me think it would be much easier
to fix than I thought. Vern: "My fix was to open up the wig-wag flasher
and replace the electrolytic capacitor with a larger value, slowing the
flash rate down."
After eagerly writing Vern back, he elaborated, "You should only find
one capacitor. It's a metal can with a plastic case. Try doubling the
capacitance (in microfarads). It's not critical.
You can just pry open the bottom to release the tabs and slide the cover
off."
Sweet. I went outside and got to work.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-007-large.jpg
The cover was surprisingly easy to pry off.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-008-large.jpg
There's the capacitor, on the upper left. Let's see, this is a 4.7 =B5F
capacitor.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-009-large.jpg
I'll go by a 10=B5F and 20=B5F to try out.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-013-large.jpg
I fired up my (new, because I polished the old one's tip for devinyling
help) soldering gun and heated up the solder on the back of the board
enough to pull the old capacitor out.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-014-large.jpg
Sweet. That was easier than I thought it would be.
Here's the 10=B5F capacitor installed.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-015-large.jpg
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-016-large.jpg
Not great, but not terrible either. (My first REAL soldering.)
So, I put the thing back together and fired it up.
This is the fast version, from my previous post with the 4.7 uF
capacitor...
http://videos.videopress.com/h02JJyop/20101020_hd.mp4
And with the 10 uF capacitor...
http://videos.videopress.com/kxRChhjU/20101107-002_hd.mp4
I used an online "beat-tapper" (http://www.all8.com/tools/bpm.htm) to
calculate the old flash rate (85 Hz, from light 1 on to light 1 on
again) and the new flash rate (45 Hz).
I like 45 Hz. I'm thinking I might try the 20=B5F version, just to see
how slow it is. But, I'm calling this a huge success. (Thanks Vern, for
showing me how easy this would be.)
(I'm giving up on the flashing of the 4 MR16 HIDs in the wingtip. I
think I'm going to use steady HID leading edge landing lights, and flash
my taxi lights (which may still end up in the wingtips.))
--
Andrew Zachar
andrew.d.zachar@gmail.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
07:34:00
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. |
Andrew,
Thanks for the fine details and images. Just wish that you had not used
.mp4 video format as I could not safely figure a way to view that codex
in my Vista windows os...Dave
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
----- Original Message -----
From: Andrew Zachar
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2010 7:38 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher.
Good morning, everyone.
The last time I had my B&C flasher hooked up, I thought it was a
little fast. I did some experimentation over the weekend, and I thought
I would share my results.
A post on the this list last week made me think it would be much
easier to fix than I thought. Vern: "My fix was to open up the wig-wag
flasher and replace the electrolytic capacitor with a larger value,
slowing the flash rate down."
After eagerly writing Vern back, he elaborated, "You should only find
one capacitor. It's a metal can with a plastic case. Try doubling the
capacitance (in microfarads). It's not critical.
You can just pry open the bottom to release the tabs and slide the
cover off."
Sweet. I went outside and got to work.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-007-large.jpg
The cover was surprisingly easy to pry off.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-008-large.jpg
There's the capacitor, on the upper left. Let's see, this is a 4.7
=B5F capacitor.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-009-large.jpg
I'll go by a 10=B5F and 20=B5F to try out.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-013-large.jpg
I fired up my (new, because I polished the old one's tip for
devinyling help) soldering gun and heated up the solder on the back of
the board enough to pull the old capacitor out.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-014-large.jpg
Sweet. That was easier than I thought it would be.
Here's the 10=B5F capacitor installed.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-015-large.jpg
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/20101107-016-large.jpg
Not great, but not terrible either. (My first REAL soldering.)
So, I put the thing back together and fired it up.
This is the fast version, from my previous post with the 4.7 uF
capacitor...
http://videos.videopress.com/h02JJyop/20101020_hd.mp4
And with the 10 uF capacitor...
http://videos.videopress.com/kxRChhjU/20101107-002_hd.mp4
I used an online "beat-tapper" (http://www.all8.com/tools/bpm.htm) to
calculate the old flash rate (85 Hz, from light 1 on to light 1 on
again) and the new flash rate (45 Hz).
I like 45 Hz. I'm thinking I might try the 20=B5F version, just to see
how slow it is. But, I'm calling this a huge success. (Thanks Vern, for
showing me how easy this would be.)
(I'm giving up on the flashing of the 4 MR16 HIDs in the wingtip. I
think I'm going to use steady HID leading edge landing lights, and flash
my taxi lights (which may still end up in the wingtips.))
--
Andrew Zachar
andrew.d.zachar@gmail.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. |
Woops. Forgot to include the post address.
Here's the post:
http://n999za.wordpress.com/2010/11/07/hacking-the-wig-wag-flasher/
<http://n999za.wordpress.com/2010/11/07/hacking-the-wig-wag-flasher/>(General
site is: http://n999za.wordpress.com/)
Thanks again, Vern. You were the inspiration for the post.
Wow, Andrew, what a great tutorial! If you have a website, you should
> publish this. If not, let me know and I can put it up on my site.
>
> Vern
>
--
Andrew Zachar
andrew.d.zachar@gmail.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. |
On 11/08/2010 04:04 PM, David LLoyd wrote:
> Andrew,
> Thanks for the fine details and images. Just wish that you had not used
> .mp4 video format as I could not safely figure a way to view that codex
> in my Vista windows os...Dave
Hi Dave,
Try VLC:
http://www.videolan.org/vlc/
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Please use Netiquette Guidelines http://tools.ietf.org/html/rfc1855
Kindly TRIM your email replies and post AFTER the relevant text
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. |
Just wish that you had not used .mp4 video format as I could not safely
> figure a way to view that codex in my Vista windows os...Dave
>
Yeah, I was worried about that. Can you see them at the bottom of my
wordpress post through Chrome or IE? (
http://n999za.wordpress.com/2010/11/07/hacking-the-wig-wag-flasher/)
--
Andrew Zachar
andrew.d.zachar@gmail.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Hacking the B&C Wig Wag Flasher. |
At 03:06 PM 11/8/2010, you wrote:
>Woops. Forgot to include the post address.
>
>Here's the post:
><http://n999za.wordpress.com/2010/11/07/hacking-the-wig-wag-flasher/>http://n999za.wordpress.com/2010/11/07/hacking-the-wig-wag-flasher/
>
>(General site is: <http://n999za.wordpress.com/>http://n999za.wordpress.com/)
>
>Thanks again, Vern. You were the inspiration for the post.
It's MUCH easier to replace the timing resistor. I couldn't
see the critter well enough to read the resistance but it's
no doubt the one right next to the base of capacitor.
Having said that, one might ALSO which to replace the aluminum
electrolytic with the smaller tantalum. It's more stable and
less stressful of mounting under vibration. Here's a readily
available device
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId 62393
and it's a 10uf . . . which will double the flash cycle
period. But for finer tuning . . . fiddle with the
resistor. A dab of E6000, RTV or similar cement at the
base of the existing capacitor would go a long way toward
increasing it's resistance to vibration.
It's a VERY common production practice to put little
dabs of support on components with long overhangs. I learned
this about 1975 when my first article ov relay for Cessna
got some parts shaken off during qual tests. After about
three or four similar experiences I learned how to do it.
Haven't broken a product in vibration qualification in
30 years.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
Message 10
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| Subject: | Squeaky Wheeling |
Re 9024 module status, 10/22/10
Unfortunately, Bob, only you can answer this.
Just want to know if I should go ahead and drill another panel hole for Alt 2 CB
and get an OVM-14, or if the 9024 release is imminent.
When you have a moment.
Thanks,
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=318625#318625
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