Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:06 AM - Re: Water temp sensor ground (user9253)
2. 05:08 AM - Re: G530 TX Issue ()
3. 05:17 AM - LSE Ignition for Sale ()
4. 05:37 AM - Re: LSE Ignition for Sale (JOHN TIPTON)
5. 06:08 AM - Re: Water temp sensor ground (Neal George)
6. 06:37 AM - Re: Water temp sensor ground (Paul Kuntz)
7. 06:52 AM - Re: LSE Ignition for Sale ()
8. 06:59 AM - Re: Water temp sensor ground (paul wilson)
9. 06:59 AM - Re: Water temp sensor ground (Jon Finley)
10. 07:03 AM - Re: Water temp sensor ground (Neal George)
11. 07:14 AM - Re: Music isolation advice (Vern Little)
12. 08:03 AM - Re: Music isolation advice (Tim Olson)
13. 08:09 AM - Re: Intermittent Generator (Dennis Johnson)
14. 08:16 AM - Re: Intermittent Generator (Dennis Johnson)
15. 08:38 AM - Re: Music isolation advice (Tim Olson)
16. 11:20 AM - Re: Music isolation advice (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 12:34 PM - Re: Water temp sensor ground (Bill Bradburry)
18. 12:43 PM - Re: Water temp sensor ground (Paul Kuntz)
19. 05:09 PM - Re: Water temp sensor ground (Noel Loveys)
20. 05:31 PM - Re: Water temp sensor ground (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 06:37 PM - Re: Water temp sensor ground (Paul Kuntz)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Water temp sensor ground |
How about using a ring terminal? What inside diameter is required?
Maybe you could find one at an auto parts store. The electronic supply houses
usually sell them in boxes of 10 or more. http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=320758-ND
Ask around, someone might have one of the size needed.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322648#322648
Message 2
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Thanks everyone - I'll give these ideas a go.
Do Not Archive
Glenn E. Long
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Charlie England
Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2010 4:36 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: G530 TX Issue
On 12/7/2010 12:30 PM, longg@pjm.com wrote:
My Garmin 530 is having an issue transmitting.
When I click on the PTT button the TX light comes on the Garmin and my
test handheld radio goes silent as to receive the voice. No voice is
transmitted/heard. I have to really speak up to hear myself talking when
I press the button.
My other 2 com radios work perfectly.
Also when transmitting the Audio COM1 button blinks and recognizes the
transmission.
The vol/sql knob appears to work as advertised.
Ideas appreciated.
Thanks
Glenn E. Long
A friend had the same symptom with a factory new 430. Swapped into
another a/c & it worked fine; bad again in his plane.
After perusing the wiring diagrams for days and contacting Garmin tech
help & detailing every single pin that had wire (tech said it was wired
correctly), he finally took it to a local avionics shop. They took one
look at the back & told him he was missing one of the grounds (sorry;
don't remember which one).
The harness was built by the vendor where he bought the radio.
Remember that even if it worked for a while, pins can back out of the
housing if they are defective, or if they were not fully seated when
they were installed.
Charlie
Message 3
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| Subject: | LSE Ignition for Sale |
For any of you building your project, I've got an LSE Ignition with only
1 hour of time on it. I used to have dual, but took one off and replaced
with 1 mag at the advice of those with more experience.
If you are interested, let me know. Wholesale, this model goes for
$1300+ stuff anywhere else. A Slick mag will cost you more than 1k.
Model: Plasma III / 4 Cylinder
Type: Hall Sensor
Harness: Order from Klaus - You need a special length based on
installation location and whether you want a Simpson display.
RPM Pickup - Klaus says this model should provide it, but I could never
get a signal off the pins. You can mail to him to check if you want it.
I don't use it. The Simpson option displays everything you need. RPM,
MP, Timing.
Coil and Wire harness included for 4 cylinder setup.
Condition: Used 1 hour
Price $1000.00 - No offers please. I'll let it sit on the shelf and rot
for anything less.
Glenn
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: LSE Ignition for Sale |
I'll let it sit on the shelf and rot for anything less.
Nice one
----- Original Message -----
From: longg@pjm.com
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2010 1:14 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: LSE Ignition for Sale
For any of you building your project, I've got an LSE Ignition with
only 1 hour of time on it. I used to have dual, but took one off and
replaced with 1 mag at the advice of those with more experience.
If you are interested, let me know. Wholesale, this model goes for
$1300+ stuff anywhere else. A Slick mag will cost you more than 1k.
Model: Plasma III / 4 Cylinder
Type: Hall Sensor
Harness: Order from Klaus - You need a special length based on
installation location and whether you want a Simpson display.
RPM Pickup - Klaus says this model should provide it, but I could
never get a signal off the pins. You can mail to him to check if you
want it. I don't use it. The Simpson option displays everything you
need. RPM, MP, Timing.
Coil and Wire harness included for 4 cylinder setup.
Condition: Used 1 hour
Price $1000.00 - No offers please. I'll let it sit on the shelf and
rot for anything less.
Glenn
Message 5
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| Subject: | Water temp sensor ground |
Paul -
If the brass fitting had NPT threads, trying to clamp a tabbed washer
between the fitting and the manifold is probably not a good idea. Clamping
force is required to maintain electrical contact/continuity with the washer,
fitting & sensor. NPT threads depend on taper & interference fit to seal.
Finding the perfect thickness of washer to fill the gap between the manifold
boss and the adapter shoulder while maintaining the correct fit of the NPT
threads without over- or under-torquing might be challenging.
If it were my airplane, I think I'd drill thru one of the corners of the
brass fitting (emulating a safety wire hole) and solder a wire in the hole
for the ground. Example photos:
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=10147/index.html
http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/images/pdf/nuts_corner_drilled.pdf
neal
==========
This photo
<http://webhosting.web.com/imagelib/sitebuilder/misc/show_image.html?linkedw
idth=actual&linkpath=http://www.pipistrelbuilders.com/sitebuildercontent/sit
ebuilderpictures/water_temp_sensor_2.JPG&target=tlx_picncs7> shows a water
temperature sensor in the coolant manifold riser on my Rotax 912
installation. It's the brass-colored fitting screwed into the end of the
short horizontal tube in the middle of the photo. The sensor needs a
ground, but the coolant manifold is connected by rubber hoses to the engine,
so it's not presently grounded. I would prefer to ground the sensor with a
tabbed copper washer under the sensor itself, to which I could attach a
ground wire, but I don't know a source. I suppose I could fabricate one
myself, but I'd rather buy one if they are available. Alternatively, I
could screw a hose clamp around the manifold and ground the clamp. Any
recommendations?
Thanks,
Paul Kuntz
http://www.pipistrelbuilders.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Water temp sensor ground |
Neal,
That's not a bad idea, although this particular fitting has straight
threads, not tapered pipe threads. One problem I see with the soldered
ground wire is the possibility of wire fatigue at the solder joint.
Thanks,
Paul
On Wed, Dec 8, 2010 at 6:04 AM, Neal George <n8zg@att.net> wrote:
> Paul '
>
> If the brass fitting had NPT threads, trying to clamp a tabbed washer
> between the fitting and the manifold is probably not a good idea. Clampi
ng
> force is required to maintain electrical contact/continuity with the wash
er,
> fitting & sensor. NPT threads depend on taper & interference fit to seal
.
> Finding the perfect thickness of washer to fill the gap between the manif
old
> boss and the adapter shoulder while maintaining the correct fit of the NP
T
> threads without over- or under-torquing might be challenging.
>
>
> If it were my airplane, I think I=92d drill thru one of the corners of th
e
> brass fitting (emulating a safety wire hole) and solder a wire in the hol
e
> for the ground. Example photos:
>
>
> http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=10147/index.
html
>
> http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/images/pdf/nuts_corner_drilled.pdf
>
>
> neal
>
> ==========
>
> This photo<http://webhosting.web.com/imagelib/sitebuilder/misc/show_image
.html?linkedwidth=actual&linkpath=http://www.pipistrelbuilders.com/site
buildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/water_temp_sensor_2.JPG&target=tlx_pic
ncs7>shows a water temperature sensor in the coolant manifold riser on my R
otax
> 912 installation. It's the brass-colored fitting screwed into the end of
> the short horizontal tube in the middle of the photo. The sensor needs a
> ground, but the coolant manifold is connected by rubber hoses to the engi
ne,
> so it's not presently grounded. I would prefer to ground the sensor with
a
> tabbed copper washer under the sensor itself, to which I could attach a
> ground wire, but I don't know a source. I suppose I could fabricate one
> myself, but I'd rather buy one if they are available. Alternatively, I
> could screw a hose clamp around the manifold and ground the clamp. Any
> recommendations?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul Kuntz
> http://www.pipistrelbuilders.com
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
============*
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | LSE Ignition for Sale |
Additional item - Hal sensor gear not included. You or your engine folks
provide the accessory gear for the hall sensor. I got the unit with the
engine so had to swap the gear to use on my MAG. Talk to your engine
people first to be sure.
Personal checks welcome. Will not ship until I got the green.
Thanks
Glenn E. Long
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
longg@pjm.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2010 8:14 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: LSE Ignition for Sale
For any of you building your project, I've got an LSE Ignition with only
1 hour of time on it. I used to have dual, but took one off and replaced
with 1 mag at the advice of those with more experience.
If you are interested, let me know. Wholesale, this model goes for
$1300+ stuff anywhere else. A Slick mag will cost you more than 1k.
Model: Plasma III / 4 Cylinder
Type: Hall Sensor
Harness: Order from Klaus - You need a special length based on
installation location and whether you want a Simpson display.
RPM Pickup - Klaus says this model should provide it, but I could never
get a signal off the pins. You can mail to him to check if you want it.
I don't use it. The Simpson option displays everything you need. RPM,
MP, Timing.
Coil and Wire harness included for 4 cylinder setup.
Condition: Used 1 hour
Price $1000.00 - No offers please. I'll let it sit on the shelf and rot
for anything less.
Glenn
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Water temp sensor ground |
Dont know what brand you are installing, but most gauges come with
optional two senders. One like yours and on with the required ground
tab. Check the source for that option. Lots more samitary than a
workaround with onbly one tab.
PaulW
=====
At 08:56 PM 12/7/2010, you wrote:
><http://webhosting.web.com/imagelib/sitebuilder/misc/show_image.html?linkedwidth=actual&linkpath=http://www.pipistrelbuilders.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/water_temp_sensor_2.JPG&target=tlx_picncs7>This
>photo shows a water temperature sensor in the coolant manifold riser
>on my Rotax 912 installation. It's the brass-colored fitting
>screwed into the end of the short horizontal tube in the middle of
>the photo. The sensor needs a ground, but the coolant manifold is
>connected by rubber hoses to the engine, so it's not presently
>grounded. I would prefer to ground the sensor with a tabbed copper
>washer under the sensor itself, to which I could attach a ground
>wire, but I don't know a source. I suppose I could fabricate one
>myself, but I'd rather buy one if they are
>available. Alternatively, I could screw a hose clamp around the
>manifold and ground the clamp. Any recommendations?
>
>Thanks,
>Paul Kuntz
><http://www.pipistrelbuilders.com>http://www.pipistrelbuilders.com
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Water temp sensor ground |
=0AHi Paul,=0A =0AThe best option is to replace the sensor with one that ha
s a ground connector (obviously). However; I have run into this same situa
tion a number of times and have never come up with a really good solution (
so am listening closely to the responses). The best I have come up is a ho
se clamp around the sensor with a ground wire underneith it (as you mention
ed). The only trick to this seems to be adequately securing the wire agains
t vibration or else it will break (at the hose clamp) over time. Of course
(just to spite me I think), the most recent sensor I added was a large hexa
gon shape which made the hose clamp solution really crude.=0A =0AJon Finley
=0AN314JF - Q2 - Subaru EJ-22=0A[http://www.finleyweb.net/Q2Subaru.aspx] ht
tp://www.finleyweb.net/Q2Subaru.aspx=0A=0A=0A-----Original Message-----=0AF
rom: "Paul Kuntz" <paul.r.kuntz@gmail.com>=0ASent: Wednesday, December 8, 2
010 7:28am=0ATo: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com=0ASubject: Re: AeroElectri
c-List: Water temp sensor ground=0A=0ANeal,=0A=0AThat's not a bad idea, alt
hough this particular fitting has straight threads, not tapered pipe thread
s. One problem I see with the soldered ground wire is the possibility of w
ire fatigue at the solder joint.=0A=0AThanks,=0APaul=0A=0A=0AOn Wed, Dec 8,
2010 at 6:04 AM, Neal George <[mailto:n8zg@att.net] n8zg@att.net> wrote:
=0A=0A=0A=0APaul =93 =0AIf the brass fitting had NPT threads, trying
to clamp a tabbed washer between the fitting and the manifold is probably n
ot a good idea. Clamping force is required to maintain electrical contact/
continuity with the washer, fitting & sensor. NPT threads depend on taper
& interference fit to seal. Finding the perfect thickness of washer to fil
l the gap between the manifold boss and the adapter shoulder while maintain
ing the correct fit of the NPT threads without over- or under-torquing migh
t be challenging.=0A =0AIf it were my airplane, I think I=99d drill t
hru one of the corners of the brass fitting (emulating a safety wire hole)
and solder a wire in the hole for the ground. Example photos: =0A =0A[http
://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=10147/index.html]
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=10147/index.ht
ml =0A[http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/images/pdf/nuts_corner_drilled.
pdf] http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/images/pdf/nuts_corner_drilled.pd
f =0A =0Aneal=0A============0A=0A=0A=0A[http://webhos
ting.web.com/imagelib/sitebuilder/misc/show_image.html?linkedwidth=actual
&linkpath=http://www.pipistrelbuilders.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilder
pictures/water_temp_sensor_2.JPG&target=tlx_picncs7] This photo shows a w
ater temperature sensor in the coolant manifold riser on my Rotax 912 insta
llation. It's the brass-colored fitting screwed into the end of the short
horizontal tube in the middle of the photo. The sensor needs a ground, but
the coolant manifold is connected by rubber hoses to the engine, so it's n
ot presently grounded. I would prefer to ground the sensor with a tabbed c
opper washer under the sensor itself, to which I could attach a ground wire
, but I don't know a source. I suppose I could fabricate one myself, but I
'd rather buy one if they are available. Alternatively, I could screw a ho
se clamp around the manifold and ground the clamp. Any recommendations?=0A
=0AThanks,=0APaul Kuntz=0A[http://www.pipistrelbuilders.com/] http://www.pi
pistrelbuilders.com=0A=0A=0A=0A_blank">www.aeroelectric.com.com" target="
_blank">www.buildersbooks.com="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com_blank">http:
//www.matronics.com/contributionist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics
========================
Message 10
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| Subject: | Water temp sensor ground |
The soldered joint presents a manageable risk.
Two easy options:
1- After soldering the joint, wrap the wire around the sensor once and
secure with heat shrink or self-fusing silicone tape.
2 - Manipulate the wire to make it lay along the axis of the sensor before
soldering. After soldering, bind the wire to the sensor body with heat
shrink or self-fusing silicone tape after soldering.
There are many variations on exactly how to route, lay and affix the leads,
depending on whether you plan to use individual wires for signal and ground,
or some sort of paired conductor (shielded or twisted pair - for
convenience, not noise rejection).
neal
=================
Neal,
That's not a bad idea, although this particular fitting has straight
threads, not tapered pipe threads. One problem I see with the soldered
ground wire is the possibility of wire fatigue at the solder joint.
Thanks,
Paul
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Music isolation advice |
If you want independent music capability for each seat, you will need an
isolation amplifier for each. Also, most music players don't put out
enough power o provide acceptable audio levels in the cockpit, so the
passive mixer approach that you are using may not be adequate.
What I developed to solve this problem are these devices: The ASX-2A
and the ASX-2B (http://vx-aviation.com/page_2.html#ASX-2B_more). These
may be overkill if you are looking for something simple, but it neatly
solves the problem on a per-seat basis and they are very small.
Additional benefits are the auto-mute capability and the cell phone
interface (ASX-2B only).
Thanks,
Vern Little
Vx Aviation
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2010 9:30 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Music isolation advice
Attached is a .jpg to best explain this....
I'm mixing audio into the headset cord, basically.
In the end I will be doing something for both rear
seats, so they have independent music.
Today though I realized something after looking at my
audio panel (PMA8000) wiring info... All of the
rear seat jacks (4 passenger jacks) are all basically
paralleled together.
I tested injecting audio with the attached circuit
using 10 ohm and 100 ohm resistors, and got a
satisfactory music and intercom volume to the headset...
tested using a portable intercom. What I forgot
about was the section in blue....with the other
headsets in parallel.
I'm betting that the resistors will do nothing to
prevent the MUSIC audio from this left seat example from
being heard by the right seat (blue).
It seems to me that I'll need to put some sort
of isolator in the intercom audio line, just
before the 10 ohm resistors, in order to prevent
the music from backfeeding to the other headsets.
Is there a simple way to do this, or am I wrong, and
the resistors if I do a similar circuit on the right,
act as some sort of matching device and prevent
this from happening?
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
07:34:00
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Music isolation advice |
Hi Vern,
Yeah, the ASX-2A is pretty close to what I'd be looking
for. I definitely don't need cellphone...it's just
for the kids in the rear seats. Can the auto-mute be
disabled on the ASX-2A? I can't stand it when someone
talks and interrupts my music, and I'm sure the kids would
scream if every time we talked to them their songs
faded away. If it were switchable it would be nice.
I did, a couple days ago, order a music headphone amp
for each rear seat, that runs on 12V (the Boostaroo Revolution),
so I'm in it for $100 already for amping up the
volume on the ipod audio. They can do 4X boosting.
I tested those 4-resistor passive mixers and even with
no amp the volume was real low but I could tell that
2X or 4X would be fine.
So your ASX-2A provides the music boosting I take it,
right? If so, it's definitely a viable option.
What I'm not clear on yet regarding Bob's Audio Isolation
Amp is if it provides any music boosting. It does say
it's a unity amp, so I'm guessing there is no boost, but
then it also says that you can adjust resistors for
volume levels. I'm itching for a DIY project, actually,
so it's attractive to build that one, but if it doesn't
boost the ipod audio in, then I'm still going to fight
with that.
My ideal right now, since I've bought about $200 in
switches, parts, and boosters that will be showing up
in the next day or two, would be to find just a
VERY simple audio isolation circuit....one that I
can put inline with the headset audio, and then
do my passive mixer after that. Since I know all
the passive mixer will do what I need, with no
special features, I just need to insure that the
ipod audio doesn't go back through the system to the
other seat. I'm just not clear on what the very
simple 1:1 isolation-only system would be that would
do the job.
Do you stock your ASX-2A's?
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 12/8/2010 9:09 AM, Vern Little wrote:
> If you want independent music capability for each seat, you will need an
> isolation amplifier for each. Also, most music players don't put out
> enough power o provide acceptable audio levels in the cockpit, so the
> passive mixer approach that you are using may not be adequate.
> What I developed to solve this problem are these devices: The ASX-2A and
> the ASX-2B (http://vx-aviation.com/page_2.html#ASX-2B_more). These may
> be overkill if you are looking for something simple, but it neatly
> solves the problem on a per-seat basis and they are very small.
> Additional benefits are the auto-mute capability and the cell phone
> interface (ASX-2B only).
> Thanks,
> Vern Little
> Vx Aviation
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2010 9:30 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Music isolation advice
> Attached is a .jpg to best explain this....
> I'm mixing audio into the headset cord, basically.
> In the end I will be doing something for both rear
> seats, so they have independent music.
> Today though I realized something after looking at my
> audio panel (PMA8000) wiring info... All of the
> rear seat jacks (4 passenger jacks) are all basically
> paralleled together.
> I tested injecting audio with the attached circuit
> using 10 ohm and 100 ohm resistors, and got a
> satisfactory music and intercom volume to the headset...
> tested using a portable intercom. What I forgot
> about was the section in blue....with the other
> headsets in parallel.
> I'm betting that the resistors will do nothing to
> prevent the MUSIC audio from this left seat example from
> being heard by the right seat (blue).
> It seems to me that I'll need to put some sort
> of isolator in the intercom audio line, just
> before the 10 ohm resistors, in order to prevent
> the music from backfeeding to the other headsets.
> Is there a simple way to do this, or am I wrong, and
> the resistors if I do a similar circuit on the right,
> act as some sort of matching device and prevent
> this from happening?
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 12/07/10 07:34:00
>
> *
>
> *
Message 13
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| Subject: | RE: Intermittent Generator |
Time: 02:50:13 PM PST US
From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Intermittent Generator Problem
It could also be a sticking brush on the field coil.
Noel
Hi Noel,
That's my current guess, too. I think I'll run it some more and see if
the problem recurs. If so, I'll remove the alternator and have it
repaired.
Thanks,
Dennis
Message 14
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| Subject: | RE: Intermittent Generator |
Hi Neal,
You suggested heat buildup as a possible cause of my intermittent
generator problem. The problem began about 45 minutes into the flight.
I was at 17,000' MSL and the temperature was about 14 Deg F. The
alternator on my IO-550 is gear driven and mounted at the front of the
engine, directly behind one of the two air inlets into the cowling, so I
can't imagine heat being a problem. I was running normal loads, the
battery was pretty much charged and pitot heat was turned off.
I'll take your advice and check all the alternator wiring connectors for
loose and corroded connections.
Thanks,
Dennis
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Music isolation advice |
Actually, I just realized that Bob's 9009-700L won't
work for me, as stock at least, if I use it per normal
operation. It provides for Mono headphone audio,
and mixes to Stereo music. I need to have Stereo
Headset audio mixed with Stereo Music Audio.
It may be that I could build a similar circuit based
on the same devices though, to just bring in the stereo
audio from the headset as Music audio, and then put it
out the other side, where I can use a passive mixer
circuit to blend in the ipod audio.
Tim
On 12/8/2010 9:58 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Hi Vern,
>
> Yeah, the ASX-2A is pretty close to what I'd be looking
> for. I definitely don't need cellphone...it's just
> for the kids in the rear seats. Can the auto-mute be
> disabled on the ASX-2A? I can't stand it when someone
> talks and interrupts my music, and I'm sure the kids would
> scream if every time we talked to them their songs
> faded away. If it were switchable it would be nice.
>
> I did, a couple days ago, order a music headphone amp
> for each rear seat, that runs on 12V (the Boostaroo Revolution),
> so I'm in it for $100 already for amping up the
> volume on the ipod audio. They can do 4X boosting.
> I tested those 4-resistor passive mixers and even with
> no amp the volume was real low but I could tell that
> 2X or 4X would be fine.
>
> So your ASX-2A provides the music boosting I take it,
> right? If so, it's definitely a viable option.
>
> What I'm not clear on yet regarding Bob's Audio Isolation
> Amp is if it provides any music boosting. It does say
> it's a unity amp, so I'm guessing there is no boost, but
> then it also says that you can adjust resistors for
> volume levels. I'm itching for a DIY project, actually,
> so it's attractive to build that one, but if it doesn't
> boost the ipod audio in, then I'm still going to fight
> with that.
>
> My ideal right now, since I've bought about $200 in
> switches, parts, and boosters that will be showing up
> in the next day or two, would be to find just a
> VERY simple audio isolation circuit....one that I
> can put inline with the headset audio, and then
> do my passive mixer after that. Since I know all
> the passive mixer will do what I need, with no
> special features, I just need to insure that the
> ipod audio doesn't go back through the system to the
> other seat. I'm just not clear on what the very
> simple 1:1 isolation-only system would be that would
> do the job.
>
> Do you stock your ASX-2A's?
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
> On 12/8/2010 9:09 AM, Vern Little wrote:
>> If you want independent music capability for each seat, you will need an
>> isolation amplifier for each. Also, most music players don't put out
>> enough power o provide acceptable audio levels in the cockpit, so the
>> passive mixer approach that you are using may not be adequate.
>> What I developed to solve this problem are these devices: The ASX-2A and
>> the ASX-2B (http://vx-aviation.com/page_2.html#ASX-2B_more). These may
>> be overkill if you are looking for something simple, but it neatly
>> solves the problem on a per-seat basis and they are very small.
>> Additional benefits are the auto-mute capability and the cell phone
>> interface (ASX-2B only).
>> Thanks,
>> Vern Little
>> Vx Aviation
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Tim Olson
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2010 9:30 AM
>> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Music isolation advice
>> Attached is a .jpg to best explain this....
>> I'm mixing audio into the headset cord, basically.
>> In the end I will be doing something for both rear
>> seats, so they have independent music.
>> Today though I realized something after looking at my
>> audio panel (PMA8000) wiring info... All of the
>> rear seat jacks (4 passenger jacks) are all basically
>> paralleled together.
>> I tested injecting audio with the attached circuit
>> using 10 ohm and 100 ohm resistors, and got a
>> satisfactory music and intercom volume to the headset...
>> tested using a portable intercom. What I forgot
>> about was the section in blue....with the other
>> headsets in parallel.
>> I'm betting that the resistors will do nothing to
>> prevent the MUSIC audio from this left seat example from
>> being heard by the right seat (blue).
>> It seems to me that I'll need to put some sort
>> of isolator in the intercom audio line, just
>> before the 10 ohm resistors, in order to prevent
>> the music from backfeeding to the other headsets.
>> Is there a simple way to do this, or am I wrong, and
>> the resistors if I do a similar circuit on the right,
>> act as some sort of matching device and prevent
>> this from happening?
>> --
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>> do not archive
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> 12/07/10 07:34:00
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Music isolation advice |
At 10:34 AM 12/8/2010, you wrote:
>
>Actually, I just realized that Bob's 9009-700L won't
>work for me, as stock at least, if I use it per normal
>operation. It provides for Mono headphone audio,
>and mixes to Stereo music. I need to have Stereo
>Headset audio mixed with Stereo Music Audio.
The 9009 board is easily 'jeeped' to provide
two pairs of stereo input.
Bob . . .
Message 17
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| Subject: | Water temp sensor ground |
The best solution is the ground tab as suggested below. Barring that, check
for good continuity between the sensor body and the pipe it is screwed into.
If it is making good contact, place a hose clamp around the pipe and attach
a ground wire to the clamp.
Bill B
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon
Finley
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2010 9:56 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Water temp sensor ground
Hi Paul,
The best option is to replace the sensor with one that has a ground
connector (obviously). However; I have run into this same situation a
number of times and have never come up with a really good solution (so am
listening closely to the responses). The best I have come up is a hose
clamp around the sensor with a ground wire underneith it (as you mentioned).
The only trick to this seems to be adequately securing the wire against
vibration or else it will break (at the hose clamp) over time. Of course
(just to spite me I think), the most recent sensor I added was a large
hexagon shape which made the hose clamp solution really crude.
Jon Finley
N314JF - Q2 - Subaru EJ-22
http://www.finleyweb.net/Q2Subaru.aspx
-----Original Message-----
From: "Paul Kuntz" <paul.r.kuntz@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 8, 2010 7:28am
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Water temp sensor ground
Neal,
That's not a bad idea, although this particular fitting has straight
threads, not tapered pipe threads. One problem I see with the soldered
ground wire is the possibility of wire fatigue at the solder joint.
Thanks,
Paul
On Wed, Dec 8, 2010 at 6:04 AM, Neal George <n8zg@att.net> wrote:
Paul -
If the brass fitting had NPT threads, trying to clamp a tabbed washer
between the fitting and the manifold is probably not a good idea. Clamping
force is required to maintain electrical contact/continuity with the washer,
fitting & sensor. NPT threads depend on taper & interference fit to seal.
Finding the perfect thickness of washer to fill the gap between the manifold
boss and the adapter shoulder while maintaining the correct fit of the NPT
threads without over- or under-torquing might be challenging.
If it were my airplane, I think I'd drill thru one of the corners of the
brass fitting (emulating a safety wire hole) and solder a wire in the hole
for the ground. Example photos:
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=10147/index.html
http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/images/pdf/nuts_corner_drilled.pdf
neal
==========
This photo
<http://webhosting.web.com/imagelib/sitebuilder/misc/show_image.html?linkedw
idth=actual&linkpath=http://www.pipistrelbuilders.com/sitebuildercontent/sit
ebuilderpictures/water_temp_sensor_2.JPG&target=tlx_picncs7> shows a water
temperature sensor in the coolant manifold riser on my Rotax 912
installation. It's the brass-colored fitting screwed into the end of the
short horizontal tube in the middle of the photo. The sensor needs a
ground, but the coolant manifold is connected by rubber hoses to the engine,
so it's not presently grounded. I would prefer to ground the sensor with a
tabbed copper washer under the sensor itself, to which I could attach a
ground wire, but I don't know a source. I suppose I could fabricate one
myself, but I'd rather buy one if they are available. Alternatively, I
could screw a hose clamp around the manifold and ground the clamp. Any
recommendations?
Thanks,
Paul Kuntz
http://www.pipistrelbuilders.com <http://www.pipistrelbuilders.com/>
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
www.buildersbooks.com <http://www.buildersbooks.com/>
p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matronics.com
=======
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Water temp sensor ground |
Good input, Neal. Thanks.
Paul
On Wed, Dec 8, 2010 at 7:00 AM, Neal George <n8zg@att.net> wrote:
> The soldered joint presents a manageable risk.
>
> Two easy options:
>
> 1- After soldering the joint, wrap the wire around the sensor once and
> secure with heat shrink or self-fusing silicone tape.
>
> 2 ' Manipulate the wire to make it lay along the axis of the sensor bef
ore
> soldering. After soldering, bind the wire to the sensor body with heat
> shrink or self-fusing silicone tape after soldering.
>
>
> There are many variations on exactly how to route, lay and affix the lead
s,
> depending on whether you plan to use individual wires for signal and grou
nd,
> or some sort of paired conductor (shielded or twisted pair ' for
> convenience, not noise rejection).
>
>
> neal
>
> =================
>
> Neal,
>
> That's not a bad idea, although this particular fitting has straight
> threads, not tapered pipe threads. One problem I see with the soldered
> ground wire is the possibility of wire fatigue at the solder joint.
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
>
> *
>
===========
>
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Water temp sensor ground |
Sure they're called ring connectors. You will find they are usually copper
plated with some metal silver colourted
Noel
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of paul
wilson
Sent: December 8, 2010 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Water temp sensor ground
Dont know what brand you are installing, but most gauges come with optional
two senders. One like yours and on with the required ground tab. Check the
source for that option. Lots more samitary than a workaround with onbly one
tab.
PaulW
=====
At 08:56 PM 12/7/2010, you wrote:
This photo
<http://webhosting.web.com/imagelib/sitebuilder/misc/show_image.html?linkedw
idth=actual&linkpath=http://www.pipistrelbuilders.com/sitebuildercontent/sit
ebuilderpictures/water_temp_sensor_2.JPG&target=tlx_picncs7> shows a water
temperature sensor in the coolant manifold riser on my Rotax 912
installation. It's the brass-colored fitting screwed into the end of the
short horizontal tube in the middle of the photo. The sensor needs a
ground, but the coolant manifold is connected by rubber hoses to the engine,
so it's not presently grounded. I would prefer to ground the sensor with a
tabbed copper washer under the sensor itself, to which I could attach a
ground wire, but I don't know a source. I suppose I could fabricate one
myself, but I'd rather buy one if they are available. Alternatively, I
could screw a hose clamp around the manifold and ground the clamp. Any
recommendations?
Thanks,
Paul Kuntz
http://www.pipistrelbuilders.com
Message 20
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| Subject: | Water temp sensor ground |
At 02:28 PM 12/8/2010, you wrote:
>The best solution is the ground tab as suggested below. Barring
>that, check for good continuity between the sensor body and the pipe
>it is screwed into. If it is making good contact, place a hose
>clamp around the pipe and attach a ground wire to the clamp.
Is there enough "meat" in the brass hex section
to drill and tap a 4-40 hole? If so, consider
a tapped hole and PIDG terminal to attach ground
wire.
Bob . . .
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Water temp sensor ground |
Thanks, everyone. Several good suggestions have been offered.
Paul
On Wed, Dec 8, 2010 at 2:03 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 02:28 PM 12/8/2010, you wrote:
>
> The best solution is the ground tab as suggested below. Barring that,
> check for good continuity between the sensor body and the pipe it is screwed
> into. If it is making good contact, place a hose clamp around the pipe and
> attach a ground wire to the clamp.
>
>
> Is there enough "meat" in the brass hex section
> to drill and tap a 4-40 hole? If so, consider
> a tapped hole and PIDG terminal to attach ground
> wire.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> *
>
>
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