AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Sat 12/18/10


Total Messages Posted: 3



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 07:02 AM - Re: Re: LM3914 Bar Graph circuit question (Mike Welch)
     2. 03:05 PM - Re: Battery Relay post too short (rvg8tor)
     3. 10:32 PM - Re: Battery Relay post too short (jmjula)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 07:02:10 AM PST US
    From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Re: LM3914 Bar Graph circuit question
    Hi Bob=2C What an incredibly astute understanding of the thermister's role. As far as I can gather=2C 99.99% of what you said is how I understood it=2C too. IIRC =2C the coolant temp sensor is one wire=2C depending on the body of it for ground. I agree the pot is being used basically a rheostat. I haven't started the engine yet with the new turbo installation. For lo w(ish) RPMs=2C the stock ECU is supposedly capable of proper A/F ratios up to 5 ps i. (with an unaltered coolant temperature sensor setup) I have a low-range pressure switch (2-7 psi) attached to the throttle body intake housing. On ce boost goes over 4.5 psi=2C it clicks over to the modified portion=2C allowing me to 'dial in' my own F/A ratio=2C from information displayed by the EGT=2C and A/F ratio =2C and boost gages. Since most airplane engine's run at extended periods of time at specific RPMs=2C I would also expect that the rheostat settings would be 'set it=2C and forg et it'. I have not fired up the engine yet. I am in the very final stages of hoo king up my overhead and front panel. In fact=2C today=2C I will be installing the overhead panel=2C and set the front panel into its premade brackets. All I do then is connec t the two DB15 wiring harnesses=2C and the two panels are done. Hook up the various sendo rs=2C and I ought to be able to hear some engine noises pretty soon. I can't really say how much of the rheostat's range would be needed. I'l l do some internet searching and see if there are any 'posted' voltage outputs. I wo uld suspect there is not=2C though. But=2C I'll look. I think what I need to do is A) get the electrical things finished B) s tart the engine and get the timing set correctly C) begin the anaysis part where I can fi nd out what the stock ECU can handle...and what I need to augment. Once I have a whole lot of data to know what I'm dealing with=2C then I t hink I can answer some of your well though-out questions. With your description of the complexities of the whole process=2C I think before I build any kind of LED indicator=2C I ought to get the engine going first=2C do so me testing=2C and THEN determine how best to display the rheostat's setting. Thanks for the help=2C Bob Mike Welch


    Message 2


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    Time: 03:05:22 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Battery Relay post too short
    From: "rvg8tor" <rvg8tor@comcast.net>
    Thanks everyone for the inputs, I will try the Loctite idea. Mike -------- Mike &quot;Nemo&quot; Elliott RV-8A QB (Fuselage) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=323782#323782


    Message 3


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    Time: 10:32:22 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Battery Relay post too short
    From: "jmjula" <jmjula@yahoo.com>
    I have the same issue. I am planning to chuck the washer and outer nut for a NAS 21042 self locking small profile nut. That should leave room for two connections and self lock, but I need to order some to be sure. -------- &quot;What is chiefly needed is skill rather than machinery.&quot; - Wilbur Wright, 1902 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=323796#323796




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