Today's Message Index:
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1. 03:48 AM - Re: Re: Battery Relay post too short (Richard Reynolds)
2. 05:12 AM - Re: Re: Battery Relay post too short (Harley)
3. 06:03 AM - Re: LM3914 Bar Graph circuit question (user9253)
4. 07:42 AM - Re: Battery Relay post too short (racerjerry)
5. 09:48 AM - Infinity Stick Ordering And Wiring (Joe McKervey)
6. 10:17 AM - Re: Re: LM3914 Bar Graph circuit question (Mike Welch)
7. 02:59 PM - Re: LM3914 Bar Graph circuit question (user9253)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Battery Relay post too short |
Be careful, I think Loctite comes in 3 grades. (You need to check!!)
Red, Forever, 600F to break it loose.
Blue, Not quite forever
Green, Pipe sealant
Richard Reynolds
Norfolk VA
RV-6A - N841RV
On Dec 18, 2010, at 6:01 PM, rvg8tor wrote:
>
> Thanks everyone for the inputs, I will try the Loctite idea.
>
> Mike
>
> --------
> Mike "Nemo" Elliott
> RV-8A QB (Fuselage)
>
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> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=323782#323782
>
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>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Battery Relay post too short |
Richard and All...
Good point! I used to run into this with the mechanics that I
worked with. Grabbing the wrong one and wondering why they had to
reapply it again the next day! Actually, there are almost 30
grades! Depending on cure rate, application and performance.
There are 8 grades of threadlocker, depending on application
screw/bolt size and removeability
7 grades of sealants, depending on app material and temperature.
4 grades of gasket material, depending on app temperature and
cure rate.
And, last but not least, 10 grades for retention! Depending on
gap, app material, useage and temp.
You can see them all (and their recommended applications) here:
http://au.iloctite.com/en/loctite-products
Harley
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On 12/19/2010 6:43 AM, Richard Reynolds wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Reynolds<richardreynolds@cox.net>
>
> Be careful, I think Loctite comes in 3 grades. (You need to check!!)
>
> Red, Forever, 600F to break it loose.
> Blue, Not quite forever
> Green, Pipe sealant
>
> Richard Reynolds
> Norfolk VA
> RV-6A - N841RV
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: LM3914 Bar Graph circuit question |
I thought of a couple more options for setting the mixture control. A precision
multi-turn potentiometer could be used with a knob having a numbered scale.
This is the simplest solution with no other indicator required.
Another option is to use a volt meter to monitor the control setting. A cheap
Harbor Freight meter could be used, or a panel mount meter like this:
http://www.murata-ps.com/data/meters/20lcd.pdf
available at Mouser, part number 580-DMS-20LCD-1-5-C, $32. Or a double-throw switch
could connect the voltage monitoring pin of the EFIS to either the aircraft
electrical system or to the mixture control.
I am not recommending one method over another. It is a matter of personal preference.
If you get the plane flying first, then you might be having too much
fun to spend time puttering with electronic projects. :-)
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=323803#323803
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Battery Relay post too short |
I believe that you have a series circuit of heavy wire between BATTERY to BATTERY
RELAY to STARTER RELAY to STARTER. Electrically, there is NO difference between
the output of the battery relay and the input of the starter relay. If
the stud on your starter relay is slightly longer, simply move the extra cable
over to the input side of the starter relay.
The stud on your present BATTERY RELAY (master relay) seems abnormally short.
If it were mine, I would probably just spring for another $25 relay from Aircraft
Spruce (after asking them to confirm length).
If you wish to use thin nuts, you can do so without damage by marking and closely
observing a line placed on the stud tip with a felt tip pen to monitor any
rotation. Double nut the stud at the tip and tighten, leaving small space between
the double nuts and the inner (thick) nut. With a box wrench on the outer
double nut, loosen the original inner nut next to the relay housing using an
open end wrench WHILE WATCHING FOR ANY ROTATION by monitoring the ink line.
There is no reason that the inner (stud locking) needs to be thick. In fact, a
thin brass nut might help for electrical conductivity.
I do not believe that the previously mentioned NAS 21042 nuts are available in
coarse (NC) thread. A light grade of threadlocker might work, but sure as heck
if you use it, the connection will have to be undone TOMORROW and now residue
is imbedded in the threads. Upon disassembly when using threadlocker or locknuts,
you are much more likely to cause stud rotation, even with the inner jam
nut in place. In any case, mark the stud end with a felt tip pen.
Lock washers dont work only because they need to be replaced with new every time
they are removed. If you are in the field and must reuse lock washers, at least
check to see that they are not flattened. Split ring lock washers eat hell
out of everything they touch. My preference is for MS 353333 internal star
lock washers with one AN960 light plain washer under the star (AC 43.13-1B, p
7-15). Besides, the star lock washers are thinner than split ring types.
--------
Jerry King
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=323808#323808
Message 5
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Subject: | Infinity Stick Ordering And Wiring |
Go to infinity grip switch web site.
Scroll down to "For how to wire your stick grips into your system "
Click Here
You will display a page of definition on possible stick grip functions.
Print this page for reference.
You will also see a Blue highlighted Stick Grip Order Form.
Click on this.
Print this page for reference.
Then functions of the switches are fairly straightforward:
Switch#
1 The Hat Switch is self explanatory.
2 Red PTT
Your choice for switches 3, 4, 5, & 6 are:
1 Normally Open N.O. Push Button PB (8632)
2 Normally Closed N.C. Push Button PB (8632)
3 Push-on/Push-Off (8636) or ON/OFF Toggle (320)
4. ON/OFF/momentary ON Toggle or Spring Loaded to
Center (ON)/OFF/(ON) (Use with Vertical Power)
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: LM3914 Bar Graph circuit question |
> I thought of a couple more options for setting the mixture control. A pre
cision multi-turn potentiometer could be used with a knob having a numbered
scale.
Hi Joe=2C
This is exactly what I have already. I have a very high quality potentio
meter
(5K ohm=2C 10 turn=2C linear) with one of those numbered dials that look ju
st like
a "combination lock". The dial even has a little lever that locks the dial
in place
onto whatever setting it is turned to. The dial I got from Mouser is also
a 10-turn
unit=2C so whenever you rotate the dial from zero (at 0 ohms) all the way t
o 10
(at 5K ohms)=2C it's reasonably close to indicating 1K ohms for every 2 tur
ns.
Here it is=3B (yes=2C the dial cost me more than $30)=3B
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Honeywell-Clarostat/31612/?qs=sGAEpiM
ZZMuiwDVLTMm01WUt3B34cWdtXy3YwOP582s%3d
What I really would like=2C in addition to the numbered dial=2C would be
a visual
indicator=2C also. With Mike Pense's suggestion about using the dual pot a
nd
combining it with that LM3914 bar graph=2C this certainly get's the job don
e!!
> Another option is to use a volt meter to monitor the control setting.
However=2C this suggestion of the digital number display (DVM) offers ano
ther
very good alternative to LEDs. I read the data sheet and I do like the ide
a of a
digital reading of the pot.
Would I be able to use my present 5K potentiometer with this DVM=2C or wo
uld
I have to get one of those dual pots=2C like Mike Pense suggested? I reall
y
would like the reading to be simultaneous......that is=2C the ECU and I see
the same
reading at the same time=2C as opposed to switching back and forth by way
of a DPDT=2C etc. switch.
Could someone come up with a design for the DVM that reflect the pot's se
tting=2C
and whether or not this design would need a single or dual pot?
Thanks for your help=2C
Mike Welch
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: LM3914 Bar Graph circuit question |
Mike,
If you decide to use this voltmeter,
http://www.murata-ps.com/data/meters/20lcd.pdf
I do not think that it will be necessary to use a dual pot for isolation. The
meter has an input impedance of 800K. When connected in parallel with a 5K pot,
the resistance of the circuit will drop about 1 percent maximum (probably less).
If it were necessary to measure an exact voltage, then a 1 percent error
might be significant. But in this application, you are not looking for an exact
voltage measurement, only the ability to repeatably set the voltage where
the engine will run best. A voltmeter will certainly be more precise than a
LED bar-graph.
The first step is to measure the maximum voltage across the pot, then buy a meter
with the correct part number for that voltage range. Connecting the meter
to the aircraft is easy. Use a 7805 voltage regulator to power the meter pins
1 & 3, connect pins 7 & 8 together, and connect pins 11 & 12 to each side of
the rheostat. If you want a decimal point, connect pin 3 to pin 4 or 5 or 6.
I do not want to give Mike bad advice; so opposing views are welcome.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=323851#323851
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