Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:25 AM - Re: Mounting a d-sub connector to a bulkhead as a pass-through (Keith Burris)
2. 06:18 AM - Re: model airplane servo (David & Elaine Lamphere)
3. 09:37 AM - shielded 5 wire for trim servo (Jesse Jenks)
4. 10:53 AM - Re: model airplane servo (Jim Corner)
5. 02:02 PM - Re: Transponder antenna signal (Speedy11@aol.com)
6. 03:28 PM - Re: Re: Transponder antenna signal (JOHN TIPTON)
7. 08:05 PM - Re: Re: Transponder antenna signal (Noel Loveys)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting a d-sub connector to a bulkhead as a pass-through |
Jack;
I saw a system kinda sorta like you describe, What this person did was to
cut the stick very close to the bottom of the stick just above the mount
removing the stick made it much easier to get in the back seat on a tandem.
The stick control cables hung below the stick when the stick had been
removed. At this point the pilot simply disconnects the two stick parts. For
reconnecting, the pilot would pull the excess cable with the connector on it
out of the stick top and bottom parts. The cables were then connected via
the method normally used to reconnect circular connectors and set the upper
stick part on top of the bottom stick part, which was all held together by a
quick connect clip passing between the upper and lower part of the stick,
For those of you still following this, the answer to the question you are
ready to ask is the pilot welded a short collar on the bottom part of the
stick part with a hole through the collar and correspondingly to the
bottom end of the upper part of the stick. With the quick disconnect
connector and the quick release pin (from Summit Racing), she was able to
reconnect the rear stick with ailerons, flaps, radio, trim, and radio freq
select. Worked great. The two cable connectors, when connected with their
corresponding wires, were all tucked away inside the stick completely out of
the way. HTH and is a little more clear than mud.
-- Keith
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: model airplane servo |
What about using what I remember as retractable landing gear servos?
They were slow and powerful and perhaps could be controlled by a 3-pos
toggle switch. Please understand, I got out of RC 14yrs ago, so the
current technology may be quite different. I think these servos were not
proportional, just on/off, supply power polarity reversing.
Just momentarily move the toggle several times until you have the
desired trim effect.
A caveat: I don't have one, nor any plans to use one so I have no stock
in this, just contributing to the discussion.
Dave
Message 3
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| Subject: | shielded 5 wire for trim servo |
I'm wiring my elevator trim servo and wondering what to do with the shield
on the 5 wire cable that came with my kit. The Ray Allen instructions say n
othing about it. Should I ground it at one or both ends=2C or just ignore i
t?
Thanks.
Jesse
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: model airplane servo |
I agree with Bob's comments on this. I get around this problem by early
testing to make sure that the "hard over failure" is easily controlled
by manual override.
Since we are controlling a almost balanced airplane it does not take
much servo deflection to correct minor trim or to control heading and
altitude.
With this approach the "failure event" is similar but no more dramatic
than hitting that invisible air pocket.
Pitch trim for landing for example is a separate system.
I have encountered that sustained "hard over" electrical failure of a
servo but have found that when the power was switched off the servo will
re-center itself
reducing the in-flight control loads, something that does not happen
with other trim methods.
Jim
On 2011-01-15, at 10:41 PM, Robert Taylor wrote:
> Thanks, Bob. That's some of the input that I am looking for. I would
also like to hear about some successful installations and how they are
controlled.
>
> Bob Taylor
> TigerCub N657RT
>
>
>> On Sat, Jan 15, 2011 at 8:55 PM, Robert Taylor <Flydad57@neo.rr.com>
wrote:
<Flydad57@neo.rr.com>
>>
>> I am interested in the possibilities of using an R/C servo for the
pitch trim on my TigerCub. Any and ALL details very welcomed!
>
> I know that there are many success stories that
> cite the use of R/C servos for moving things on
> airplanes. Just be aware that there ARE failure
> modes in these little guys that can cause a fast
> and total "hard over" motion to the mechanical
> limits of the system.
>
> I would not be able to get these products blessed
> for use on TC aircraft without some very convincing
> analysis and safeguards against such behaviors.
>
> Having your trim system drive to a limit in
> a few hundred milliseconds can really put some
> excitement into an otherwise boring day.
>
>
> Bob . . .
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=======
==
> < Go ahead, make my day . . . >
> < show me where I'm wrong. >
> =======
>
>
>
>
>
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atronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
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>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna signal |
Great responses from everyone. I appreciate each one. Like Old Bob, I've
broken off stub antenna. I'd considered switching to a blade antenna, but
didn't want to fit a new antenna. I will reconsider that option, but I'd
like to investigate doing my own "antenna fairing."
I've been gradually making streamlining changes to my RV-8A and I now claim
the status of "world's fastest RV-8A." Maybe a streamlined transponder
antenna will help a tiny bit more. My new target is 200 KIAS in level
flight at 1000" MSL. I'm already within reach of that goal.
Thanks again for your responses.
Stan Sutterfield
I like that.
You've been watching:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftq8jTQ8ANE
(excuse me if I'm being circular here)
Bill "need something to do until it warms up" Watson
On 1/14/2011 11:41 PM, Speedy11@aol.com wrote:
> Bob - or other antenna gurus,
> I want to streamline my transponder antenna. I have the short (3
> inch) stub antenna with the ball on the tip. To streamline it I'm
> going to make an epoxy resin fiberglass covering that will look like a
> blade antenna.
> Please confirm for me that streamlining with a fiberglass covering
> will not affect signal performance.
> Thanks,
> Stan Sutterfield
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna signal |
200 KIAS at 1000 " (inches) - WOW
John
----- Original Message -----
From: Speedy11@aol.com
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2011 9:57 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Transponder antenna signal
Great responses from everyone. I appreciate each one. Like Old Bob,
I've broken off stub antenna. I'd considered switching to a blade
antenna, but didn't want to fit a new antenna. I will reconsider that
option, but I'd like to investigate doing my own "antenna fairing."
I've been gradually making streamlining changes to my RV-8A and I now
claim the status of "world's fastest RV-8A." Maybe a streamlined
transponder antenna will help a tiny bit more. My new target is 200
KIAS in level flight at 1000" MSL. I'm already within reach of that
goal.
Thanks again for your responses.
Stan Sutterfield
I like that.
You've been watching:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftq8jTQ8ANE
(excuse me if I'm being circular here)
Bill "need something to do until it warms up" Watson
On 1/14/2011 11:41 PM, Speedy11@aol.com wrote:
> Bob - or other antenna gurus,
> I want to streamline my transponder antenna. I have the short (3
> inch) stub antenna with the ball on the tip. To streamline it I'm
> going to make an epoxy resin fiberglass covering that will look like
a
> blade antenna.
> Please confirm for me that streamlining with a fiberglass covering
> will not affect signal performance.
> Thanks,
> Stan Sutterfield
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna signal |
I figure that a transponder antenna will have about the same effect on an
aircraft that flies less then 150kt/hr as a good wax job. As the speed goes
up the fairing of everything becomes more noticeable. Pardon me for stating
the obvious.
As for the look of a faired antenna it is, to me, much nicer to look at. If
you consider fairing the antenna yourself then I guess you should also
consider the cost of the resins, fillers and paint or finish. Then factor
in all the time to cast a reasonable fairing and the extra ounces that it
will add to your plane. If your plane is less than 200kt I wouldn't
bother... If it's better than 200 kt I'd be on the lookout for a faired
antenna.. Put the bug in to all local avionics shops you'll be surprised
what you can come up with.
Noel
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JOHN
TIPTON
Sent: January 16, 2011 7:55 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Transponder antenna signal
200 KIAS at 1000 " (inches) - WOW
John
----- Original Message -----
From: Speedy11@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2011 9:57 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Transponder antenna signal
Great responses from everyone. I appreciate each one. Like Old Bob, I've
broken off stub antenna. I'd considered switching to a blade antenna, but
didn't want to fit a new antenna. I will reconsider that option, but I'd
like to investigate doing my own "antenna fairing."
I've been gradually making streamlining changes to my RV-8A and I now claim
the status of "world's fastest RV-8A." Maybe a streamlined transponder
antenna will help a tiny bit more. My new target is 200 KIAS in level
flight at 1000" MSL. I'm already within reach of that goal.
Thanks again for your responses.
Stan Sutterfield
I like that.
You've been watching:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftq8jTQ8ANE
(excuse me if I'm being circular here)
Bill "need something to do until it warms up" Watson
On 1/14/2011 11:41 PM, Speedy11@aol.com wrote:
> Bob - or other antenna gurus,
> I want to streamline my transponder antenna. I have the short (3
> inch) stub antenna with the ball on the tip. To streamline it I'm
> going to make an epoxy resin fiberglass covering that will look like a
> blade antenna.
> Please confirm for me that streamlining with a fiberglass covering
> will not affect signal performance.
> Thanks,
> Stan Sutterfield
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