Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:43 AM - Re: Odyssey PC680 Battery load tests (Jef Vervoort)
     2. 03:21 AM - Re: Comm Antenna & SWR Reading -- Too High? (tomcostanza)
     3. 04:50 AM - "Emacs!" in Response ()
     4. 05:12 AM - Re: Flush Cutting Cable Ties (Harley)
     5. 05:45 AM - Starter motors (Jan de Jong)
     6. 06:50 AM - Re: "Emacs!" in Response (user9253)
     7. 07:13 AM - Re: Re: "Emacs!" in Response (John Morgensen)
     8. 07:26 AM - Re: Odyssey PC680 Battery load tests (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     9. 08:11 AM - Re: Re: Comm Antenna & SWR Reading -- Too High? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    10. 08:16 AM - VOMs again. . . (paul wilson)
    11. 09:01 AM - Re: VOMs again. . . (Mike Welch)
    12. 09:23 AM - Re: VOMs again. . . (Marvin Haught)
    13. 09:43 AM - Re: Comm Antenna & SWR Reading (Noel Loveys)
    14. 09:58 AM - Re: cable ties (Noel Loveys)
    15. 10:02 AM - Re: Comm Antenna & SWR Reading: Additional Info (Noel Loveys)
    16. 10:50 AM - Re: Re: Comm Antenna & SWR Reading -- Too High? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    17. 11:10 AM - vor antenna (dlicheri)
    18. 11:14 AM - Re: VOMs again. . . (paul wilson)
    19. 11:16 AM - Re: cable ties (Stein Bruch)
    20. 11:18 AM - Re: VOMs again. . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    21. 11:25 AM - Re: cable ties (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    22. 11:42 AM - Re: "Emacs!" in Response (Noel Loveys)
    23. 11:42 AM - Re: VOMs again. . . (Mike Welch)
    24. 11:42 AM - Re: Comm Antenna & SWR Reading (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    25. 11:46 AM - Re: Re: "Emacs!" in Response (Dan Morrow)
    26. 11:54 AM - Re: vor antenna (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    27. 11:56 AM - Re: "Emacs!" in Response (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    28. 11:58 AM - Re: Comm Antenna & SWR Reading (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    29. 12:27 PM - Re: cable ties (Harley)
    30. 12:42 PM - Re: cable ties (Noel Loveys)
    31. 12:44 PM - Re: Comm Antenna & SWR Reading (Noel Loveys)
    32. 12:48 PM - Re: "Emacs!" in Response (Noel Loveys)
    33. 12:58 PM - Re: vor antenna (Noel Loveys)
    34. 01:05 PM - Re: Comm Antenna & SWR Reading (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    35. 01:12 PM - Re: vor antenna (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    36. 01:42 PM - Re: cable ties (Robert Borger)
    37. 01:50 PM - Re: vor antenna (Jared Yates)
    38. 02:50 PM - Re: VOMs again. . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    39. 03:17 PM - Re: VOMs again. . . (paul wilson)
    40. 05:22 PM - Low resistance measurement adapter. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    41. 05:39 PM - Re: Low resistance measurement adapter. (Robert Borger)
    42. 07:55 PM - Re: Comm Antenna & SWR Reading (Noel Loveys)
    43. 08:14 PM - Re: vor antenna (Noel Loveys)
 
 
 
Message 1
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Odyssey PC680 Battery load tests | 
      
      Would that mean that that Panasonic battery is also a good choice for 
      our RV
      ?
      
      
      Thanks
      
      Jef 91031 Belgium, almost there.
      
      
        _____  
      
      Van: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] Namens Mickey 
      Coggins
      Verzonden: woensdag 19 januari 2011 19:40
      Aan: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
      Onderwerp: Re: AeroElectric-List: Odyssey PC680 Battery load tests
      
      
      Hi Bob,
      
      All three batteries were just sitting on a shelf - not connected to
      anything.  I didn't do any charging to them during these years, which 
      makes
      me wonder if perhaps they are now "damaged".    The two Odyssey 
      batteries
      had very low voltages - can't recall exactly, but it was low single 
      digits,
      and they could not trigger a battery contactor.  The Panasonic still had
      about 12 volts and worked fine.  Exact same treatment for all three
      batteries.
      
      You mentioned that the battery tender is not meant as a charger.  I also
      have a "dumb" charger that just dumps in either 2.5 or 5 amps - I forgot 
      to
      check the voltage it puts out.  Do you think that this charger would be
      better at recovering these batteries than the battery tender?
      
      Thanks,
      Mickey
      
      On Tue, Jan 18, 2011 at 23:50, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
      <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
      
      I used the West Mountain Radio CBA to test some batteries that I had 
      hoped
      to use in my aircraft. =C2 Unfortunately the PC680 batteries have been 
      laying
      around for about 6 years, and had became quite discharged.
      
        What kind of maintenance did you do on the batteries
        while stored? The Battery Tender and Battery Minders
        are not intended to be 'chargers' so much as 'maintainers'.
        When you have 12v batteries on storage, it's a good idea
        to clip them all together in parallel and have some
        sort of sophisticated maintainer supporting the lot.
        I use the Schumacher 1562 or a Battery Tender to
        support my test batteries. Some are pushing 7 years
        old with better than 80% of new capacity.
      
      I really thought that the Odyssey batteries would hold a charge better 
      than
      a "standard" Panasonic. =C2 Also, the fact that the Panasonic is giving 
      me
      double the capacity is quite surprising.
      
        Were all three stored under the same conditions?
      
       =C2 I have not yet tried my desulfator, but that's my next step. =C2 
      I've only
      tested one of my two Odyssey batteries, going to test the other "soon".
      
        We'll be interested to hear what you discover.
      
      
       Bob . . . 
      
      
      -- 
      Mickey Coggins
      
      
Message 2
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Comm Antenna & SWR Reading -- Too High? | 
      
      
      Bob,
      
      In a previous life, I was a seat-of-the-pants, self-taught technician.  I was told
      that the length of the coax didn't affect the SWR.  But intuition, and more
      importantly, your test clearly shows that it does.  Extrapolating from this,
      it seems it would be possible to reduce the SWR to near zero by varying the length
      of the coax.  But would this affect performance?  Your response seems to
      indicate that SWR is not a defacto predictor of performance.  So why bother measuring
      it, unless it's to rule out an open or short, for which there are much
      easier measuring techniques?
      
      Also, the Comant specs for 2:1/3:1 probably assume an aluminum airplane.   Would
      the fact that this is installed on a glass plane not make a difference?
      
      Last question: since I started studying antennas and transmission lines as a kid,
      it has always seemed like they were more art than science.  Can you point me
      to some study material that someone with less than a PhD in physics can understand?
      
      As always, thanks for everything.
      
      Tom Costanza
      
      --------
      Clear Skies,
      Tom Costanza
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328378#328378
      
      
Message 3
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | "Emacs!" in Response | 
      
      
      1/25/2011
      
      Hello Bob Falstad, You wrote (see copied below): "However, your response had 
      three"Emacs!" in it that appear to refer to graphics that I can't view."
      
      I have the same problem with Bob Nuckolls' postings, but here is a solution 
      for me:
      
      a) Go to the Matronics forum web site.
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/
      
      b) Click on the aeroelectric list.
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewforum.php?f=3
      
      c) Click on the original subject of the email(s) in question. (Comm Antenna 
      & SWR Reading -- Too High?)
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=78934
      
      d) Scroll down to the posted email in question and you should be able to see 
      any attached graphics or photos.
      
      Please let me / us know how this works for you.
      
      'OC' Baker Says: "The best investment we can make is the time and effort to 
      gather and understand knowledge."
      
      PS to all: Bob, Bob, Who has got the Bob? Or which Bob?
      
      It is pretty important to me (and I am sure many others) to know which Bob 
      author that they are reading or which Bob is being addressed.
      
       Would all posters please identify in each case by last name which Bob they 
      are addressing and which Bob is writing by last name in each instance? Many 
      thanks.
      
      =====================================================================
      
      Time: 10:38:42 AM PST US
      From: Bob Falstad <bobair@me.com>
      Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: "Emacs!" in Response:  Was Comm Antenna & 
      SWR Reading
      
      
      Bob,
      
      Many thanks for your quick and detailed response.  However, your response 
      had three
      "Emacs!" in it that appear to refer to graphics that I can't view.  I 
      searched
      the AeroElectric lists archives and the most detailed message re "Emacs!"
      was yours dated July 31, 2009.  I couldn't find any other relevant messages
      on how to view your graphics/photos.
      
      I'm using a Macbook with OS 10.4.6 (Snow Leopard) that also has a full 
      install
      of Windows XP in it.  I opened your reply in three different browsers --  
      Safari,
      Firefox and Internet Explorer 8 but no joy.
      
      Any thoughts on how I can retrieve/view your "Emacs!" graphical inserts?
      
      Best regards,
      
      Bob Falstad 
      
      
Message 4
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Flush Cutting Cable Ties | 
      
      YEARS ago, when I was still working for a living, I wrapped, 
      tensioned and cut off thousands of cable ties over the years with 
      this little gem.
      
      www.tnb.com/fulltilt/pdf/WT1TB.pdf
      
      I still have it, and on finding it and trying it a few minutes 
      ago, it still works great.  Tensions the tie and then with a 
      quarter turn twist, cuts it low enough that the cut end is 
      usually not a problem (once you get used to doing it...even the 
      first time, it leaves only a small twisted tip).
      
      The only problem with it is if you try to put too much tension on 
      the tie, the gripper will cut the tie off about a half inch long. 
      You can usually regrip it and then twist.
      
      I was surprised that it is still being sold after over 30 years 
      since I first got mine!
      
      Here it is at Newark...that's where I got mine from 30 years 
      ago.  I didn't do any further searching and, as usual with 
      Newark's prices (I dealt with Newark all the time at work because 
      I had a crush on my local sales rep!), you may get it cheaper 
      elsewhere.
      
      Harley Dixon
      -----------------------------------------------------------------
      On 1/24/2011 10:14 PM, Dennis Johnson wrote:
      > For cutting nylon cable ties, I've had good luck with these 
      > cheap flush cutters from Harbor Freight:
      > http://www.harborfreight.com/micro-flush-cutter-90708.html
      > They cut the loose end of a plastic cable tie flush and don't 
      > leave a sharp edge.  Buy a few because they are cheap and 
      > don't last forever.  But if you don't try to cut anything other 
      > than plastic cable ties or copper wire, they'll last for most 
      > of an airplane project.
      > Dennis
      > *
      > *
      
Message 5
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      Having educated myself somewhat on 12V starter motors
      and having looked at 13 starter motors rated from 0.85kW to 4.2kW in 
      more or less detail
      I am sharing some generalized results:
      
      1. voltage (12V) and power rating (in kW) are the only values on the 
      nameplate
      
      2. the power rating indicates mechanical output power (torque times rpm)
      
      3. a power rating is determined in a circuit with a certain lead-acid 
      battery and a fixed resistance,
          not with a fixed supply voltage as one might expect;
         this an industry protocol:
         - 'largest battery allowed for this motor' Bosch says
           (the protocol requires a certain minimum voltage drop I suspect)
         - battery at 80% charge and at -20 degrees C
         - with 1 mOhm in series
         a 'performance curve' is produced, and in some cases made public 
      (fortunately)
      
      4. at stall (rpm=0):
         output power is 0,
         input power is at maximum, about 2.7 to 3.5 times the rated power
         at 5.5 to 7V the stall current (in A) is about half the power rating 
      (in W)
         (the internal motor resistance is 11/power rating to 14/power rating 
      (in Ohm))
      
      5. at maximum rpm (torque=0):
         output power is 0,
         input power is at minimum, 0.7 to 1.0 times rated power
         at about 12V the idle current (in A) is 6 to 8% of the power rating 
      (in W)
      
      6. maximum output power (rated power) occurs at half of maximum rpm and 
      about 45% of stall current
         the input power is twice the output power or a little more
      
      7. the normal start sequence of a 1.5kW (1hp) starter motor:
      7.1. stall current buildup in a few tens of ms to 750A at 5.5 to 7V
      7.2. speedup to maximum output power in several hundreds of ms,
           the current drops to 350A at 9 or 10V
      7.3. speedup to equilibrium rpm where output power generated meets power 
      required,
           the current drops to a value not much above 100A at 11V, depending 
      on the load
      
      8. during initial speedup the power required may soon rise faster than 
      the output power generated,
         the motor will then turn in semi-stalled condition at very high 
      current - bad
         causes are: excessive load, battery internal resistance, circuit 
      resistance
      
      9. battery CA (cranking amps) rating to allow the motor to make its 
      rated power:
         45% of half the power rating (units of A and W respectively)
         -> not less than power rating / 5 (this is also a known rule of thumb)
      
      Some starter motor sizes:
      Micron: 0.5kW
      Rotax 912: 0.6kW (option 0.9kW)
      Jabiru: 1.0kW (option Bosch 1.5kW)
      Ulpower: 1.1kW
      Largest seen: Kelly 2.8kW
      
      Cheers,
      Jan de Jong
      
      
Message 6
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: "Emacs!" in Response | 
      
      
      I agree with Bakerocb.  It seems that pictures have been removed from the daily email digest and replaced with Emacs!  If I want to see the pictures, I go to http://forums.matronics.com/viewforum.php?f=3 to view them.
      Joe
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328404#328404
      
      
Message 7
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: "Emacs!" in Response | 
      
      
      No problem here. I get the individual emails. Is the problem only on the 
      digest?
      
      John
      
      On 1/25/2011 6:45 AM, user9253 wrote:
      > -->  AeroElectric-List message posted by: "user9253"<fran4sew@banyanol.com>
      >
      > I agree with Bakerocb.  It seems that pictures have been removed from the daily email digest and replaced with Emacs!  If I want to see the pictures, I go to http://forums.matronics.com/viewforum.php?f=3 to view them.
      > Joe
      >
      > --------
      > Joe Gores
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328404#328404
      >
      >
      
      
Message 8
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Odyssey PC680 Battery load tests | 
      
      At 03:17 AM 1/25/2011, you wrote:
      >Would that mean that that Panasonic battery is also a good choice for our RV ?
      >
      >Thanks
      >Jef 91031 Belgium, almost there.
      
           Check out the various threads and articles
           on about batteries at http://aeroelectric.com
           using the search feature. Also check out the
           chapter on batteries in The AeroElectric
           Connection.
      
           Over the years, I've come to understand that
           there are few batteries not of good
           value . . . it's a sort of get what you pay
           for idea . . . pretty fundamental to an
           honorable free-market economy.
      
           We've also discovered that the selling price
           for any product must include amortization
           of promotional costs. This is why many products
           (like alkaline cells) are often made by the
           same factory to be sold under a variety of
           brands but with wide range of pricing for
           exactly the same product.
      
           One is certainly justified in being skeptical
           of any new kid on the block for a battery of
           any brand or price. Without special knowledge
           of where that battery is made, for how many
           other brands and for how long deprives you
           of data useful for the reduction of risk.
      
           Having said that mouth full, understand that
           batteries suitable for service in our
           airplanes are more influenced by what
           our design goals are. MOST airplane drivers
           are 'happy' with a battery that cranked
           the engine today so he could go flying.
           Just like in our cars.
      
           HOWEVER . . . if your design goals include
           DEPENDING on a battery for an alternative
           SOURCE of power in case of alternator
           failure, it's incumbent on you to KNOW
           mow much power you NEED to support your
           ENDURANCE loads and then CONFIRM that
           your battery is capable of that task
           before you launch into the HIGHER RISK
           environment.
      
           This takes homework on your part along
           with knowledge of how to craft and maintain
           a failure tolerant system to your design
           goals ("I want to be able to fly battery-
           only for X.X hours")
      
           You CAN do this with a Hawker, Panasonic,
           Yuasa, etc. etc. Success will be based on
           your own knowledge of what you expect.
           Relying on your hangar mate's assertion
           that "Panasonics are fine batteries for
           airplanes" is not a substitute for that
           knowledge.
      
           If your forecasted dependence on a battery
           is for day/vfr/pleasure flying, then
           perhaps you can treat the battery like
           99% of the light aircraft drivers and
           virtually all car drivers treat theirs.
           Run it till it gasps and dies. If your
           expectations and goals that go beyond
           that, you'll have to educate yourself
           in the processes that go to meeting those
           goals.
      
           If the battery of interest bears a well
           established branding, it's likely that
           you'll pretty much get your money's worth.
           Its a very competitive business. Anyone
           who has been at it for 20 years or more
           has probably earned their place in the market.
           But if the battery is some new product
           being offered by a bunch of folks who
           marketed donuts and bagels in an earlier
           life, then exercise due caution.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
Message 9
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Comm Antenna & SWR Reading -- Too   High? | 
      
      
      At 06:18 AM 1/25/2011, you wrote:
      ><Tom@CostanzaAndAssociates.com>
      >
      >Bob,
      >
      >In a previous life, I was a seat-of-the-pants, self-taught 
      >technician.  I was told that the length of the coax didn't affect 
      >the SWR.  But intuition, and more importantly, your test clearly 
      >shows that it does.
      
          Yeah but your teachers were right and so are you.
          The length of the coax between signal source and
          the load has losses. From a practical perspective,
          those losses are not significant in setting performance.
          In other words, we pick a coax that has an acceptably
          low loss for the system we're building.
      
          In the wild and wooly world of RF and transmission
          lines, most investigations are carried out with
          transmission lines of very low loss such that while
          the number is not zero, it's so small as to be
          ignored.
      
      >  Extrapolating from this, it seems it would be possible to reduce 
      > the SWR to near zero by varying the length of the coax.
      
          I think you missed an important point in the data.
          Yes, SWR varied with frequency because the load on
          the far end of the transmission line waves around
          in the frequency spectrum. Adding coax MIGHT make
          SWR appear better but only if there are losses in
          the coax. Losses reduce the magnitude of energy that
          makes it to the far end where it suffers reflection
          due to mis-match. The same losses reduce magnitude
          of energy reflected back to the observer's instrument
          at the input end. Yeah, the SWR 'appears' to improve
          while in fact, losses have served only to mask the
          truth from an otherwise reliable measurement system.
      
          Check out this tutorial on Smith charts:
      
      http://www.microwaves101.com/encyclopedia/Smithchart.cfm
      
          As a practical matter, while investigating of any generator/
          transmission line/load combination the observer can
          ignore the effects of losses because the transmission
          lines are short (less than 360 electrical degrees
          or one wavelength). When you plot the characteristics
          for any combination of hardware on the Smith chart, they
          form a circle of constant SWR. There's an infinite
          number of resistance/reactance values represented
          by points on that circle . . . but for any given
          frequency, the SWR is constant for any length of
          transmission line.
      
          When you investigate a range of frequencies, then
          the circle explodes and you can get some really
          curious graphic art forms. That's because the
          antenna at the far end is optimal at one frequency
          only. But an size dummy load at the far end
          and SWR is zero only when load matches the line.
          When the load does not match the line, you get
          SWR circles other than 1:1 but they are still
          smooth circles and they do not change magnitude
          or shape by adjusting line length.
      
          The data I offered supports this. Yes, SWR did
          appear to become lower by adding coax but the
          real SWR value for the two conditions were identical.
      
      >But would this affect performance?  Your response seems to indicate 
      >that SWR is not a defacto predictor of performance.  So why bother 
      >measuring it, unless it's to rule out an open or short, for which 
      >there are much easier measuring techniques?
      
          Yes, it affects performance . . . but probably
          not in observable ways. One reader noted that an
          SWR value on the order of 6:1 implied loss of
          50% of radiated energy. That's a 3db drop of
          signal strength at the receiving site. The guy
          listening to that signal would be unlikely to
          hear any difference. At the same time, we COULD
          put 100' of coax on the antenna being investigated.
          The SWR would get MUCH BETTER but the power situation
          would get worse. Not only is REAL SWR unchanged,
          we've added losses to the system that mask real
          SWR and further reduce power delivered to the
          antenna.
      
          There WAS a time when practitioners of the
          arts and sciences of aircraft antennas counseled
          cutting coax cables to some specific length to
          maximize performance. They cited experiments
          with a field strength meter to support their
          assertions. You could not argue with their
          demonstrated success. You could argue their
          lack of understanding of what was going on.
      
          In these cases, SWR values in the system had
          to be high. Once a piece of transmission line
          becomes mis-matched, it becomes part of the
          impedance transformation system that attaches
          the power generator (tube or transistor) to
          the antenna's feedpoint. By fiddling with the
          length of a poorly matched feedline, they were
          in effect "tuning" the combination of reactances
          that participated in that power transfer.
      
          If they put a dummy load on the antenna end
          of the transmission line, length would have
          no effect on SWR or the transmitter's ability
          to deliver power into that transmission line.
      
      >Also, the Comant specs for 2:1/3:1 probably assume an aluminum 
      >airplane.   Would the fact that this is installed on a glass plane 
      >not make a difference?
      
          You bet. Not only do we need to satisfy minimal
          RF requirements for size and geometry of ground
          plane, achieving a good RF bond to that ground
          plane is important. He cited a 2' x 3' ground
          plane. That's the size I used in my experiment.
          While not "ideal" (1/4-wave radius disk), it
          was certainly adequate to the task. I would not
          expect there to be observable difference in
          performance between infinite ground plane, aluminum
          structure, or glass structure backed up by
          6 square feet of aluminum sheet.
      
      >Last question: since I started studying antennas and transmission 
      >lines as a kid, it has always seemed like they were more art than 
      >science.  Can you point me to some study material that someone with 
      >less than a PhD in physics can understand?
      
          They are VERY much science. The experiments
          have been repeated many times with great
          consistency. There is also an art of making
          sure we understand and minimize the conditions
          that affect the science. I'm sure that's
          what we're dealing with here.
      
          There ARE good reasons why we both got the
          measurements reported. The goal is to figure
          out their veracity and significance. That's
          the art of sifting simple-ideas for answers
          that define the results.
      
      >As always, thanks for everything.
      
          You're most welcome . . . and thanks for asking!
      
      
          Bob . . . 
      
      
Message 10
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      Sure Lots of message for good meters. And the HF $4 unit is great for 
      checking voltages and continuity.
      What about a low cost meter that can be used for low resistance 
      measurements? No need to go down to less than ~2 ohms. But a 20k 
      lower scale dosen't do much for my needs and I have to drag out my 
      ancient VTVM to see the resistance. I sure would be nice to have a 
      handy VOM that gets some low R values.
      Any suggestions?
      
      Like to measure sensors on my truck that are supposed to be 3 ohm. 
      and the truck is 1000 miles from the VTVM because I only carry the 
      cheepy VOM and leave the VTVM home. - Sigh.
      PaulW
      
      
Message 11
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      >I sure would be nice to have a 
      > handy VOM that gets some low R values.
      > Any suggestions?
      > PaulW
      
      Paul=2C
      
        When this subject came up a couple of months ago=2C I had recommended
      the Etek digital VOM=2C model #10709=2C sold at Walmart.  It has a good fee
      l in 
      your hands=2C and several extra functions (built-in flashlight=2C temp prob
      e=2C etc.) 
      that make it a GREAT model for the money.
      
        I had one I used in doing the electrics for my house I was building.  Som
      eone
      ruined it by spilling coffee in it.  I did like it=2C so I made it a point 
      of going
      back to Walmart and getting another one!
      
        For $21 you simply can't go wrong!
      
      Mike Welch 		 	   		  
      
Message 12
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: VOMs again. . . | 
      
      The WalMart stores in our area no longer sell that model - what they've 
      got in stock is just junk.  Since my wasn't working, I took it back to 
      get it replaced, and they no longer stock it.  I'm trying to find 
      another one now since I've got all the leads and everything.
      
      M. Haught
      
      On 1/25/2011 10:57 AM, Mike Welch wrote:
      > >I sure would be nice to have a
      > > handy VOM that gets some low R values.
      > > Any suggestions?
      > > PaulW
      >
      > Paul,
      >
      >   When this subject came up a couple of months ago, I had recommended
      > the Etek digital VOM, model #10709, sold at Walmart.  It has a good 
      > feel in
      > your hands, and several extra functions (built-in flashlight, temp 
      > probe, etc.)
      > that make it a GREAT model for the money.
      >
      >   I had one I used in doing the electrics for my house I was 
      > building.  Someone
      > ruined it by spilling coffee in it.  I did like it, so I made it a 
      > point of going
      > back to Walmart and getting another one!
      >
      >   For $21 you simply can't go wrong!
      >
      > Mike Welch
      > *
      >
      >
      > *
      
      
Message 13
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Comm Antenna & SWR Reading | 
      
      
      To accurately measure VHF frequencies the meter has to have fast acting
      diodes.  Usually meters designed for HF (under 30 mHz) are not fast enough
      gating to accurately read swr for higher frequencies.  To be sure take your
      meter to someone who has a bird or similar meter and see if the calibration
      is close.
      
      A technician at a local phone company or amateur who works on repeaters may
      be a good place to start.
      
      Noel
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of paul
      wilson
      Sent: January 24, 2011 3:25 PM
      Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Comm Antenna & SWR Reading
      
      
      I am not Bob , but I use a forward/reflected SWR meter. Its a low 
      cost unit that did not have serious badmouthing from the Ham guys. 
      MFJ-862 SWR/Wattmeter. It has a 30 and 300w max range setting
      PaulW
      ========
      At 08:14 AM 1/24/2011, Noel Loveys wrote:
      <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
      >
      >Bob what did you use to measure the forward and reverse power?  A bird or
      >just a regular SWR meter?
      >
      >Noel
      
      
Message 14
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  | 
      
      
      
      Although I have seen those tools I have never seen one used in 
      aviation...
      Too bad... they work.
      
      
      Noel
      
      
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Janet
      Amtmann
      Sent: January 24, 2011 5:20 PM
      Subject: AeroElectric-List: cable ties
      
      
      To those of you having trouble with cable tie injuries, try a relatively
      inexpensive ($31) tensioning tool from Waytek.  It has a cutter that 
      cuts so
      close to the tie head that you can't feel the edges.  Try tool #412, and 
      use
      Thomas & Betts "Ty-Rap" brand ties.  Never had a problem with injuries 
      with
      this combination.  The jewelers' diags that Bob mentioned work also on a
      lower budget.
      
      
      Do not archive
      
      
      J=FCrgen Amtmann
      
      
Message 15
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Comm Antenna & SWR Reading:  Additional Info | 
      
      
      Another problem with making the feed line much too long is what to do with
      the access.  If you coil it up you have just made another electrical tuning
      circuit.  This can be really bad with unshielded zip wire like used in some
      stereo systems.
      
      Noel
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj
      Merrill
      Sent: January 24, 2011 5:39 PM
      Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Comm Antenna & SWR Reading: Additional Info
      
      
      On 01/24/2011 03:24 PM, Bob Falstad wrote:
      
      > Is there a rule of thumb in how long to make antenna feed lines for
      optimum performance?  
      
      	Typically the longer the cable run, the higher the loss induced by
      the
      cable, so I strive to make the cable runs as short as practical while
      still leaving adequate length for maintenance, moving things, etc.  An
      extra foot or two won't make much difference, but I wouldn't leave an
      extra ten feet, for example.
      
      > 
      > When re-running the tests, would it make any difference to use a more
      powerful transmitter than my little hand-held?  Or should I stick with what
      I used originally to eliminate one more variable that might affect the
      follow-on data?
      
      	I typically test with a 5 watt handheld.  I can see no reason to
      throw
      more power at it.  However, it might be worth trying the test with a
      different handheld to remove the radio itself as a potential source of
      the problem.
      
      -Dj
      
      
      -- 
      Dj Merrill - N1JOV
      Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
      
      Please use Netiquette Guidelines http://tools.ietf.org/html/rfc1855
      Kindly TRIM your email replies and post AFTER the relevant text
      
      
Message 16
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Comm Antenna & SWR Reading -- Too     High? | 
      
      
      At 10:07 AM 1/25/2011, you wrote:
      ><nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
      >
      >At 06:18 AM 1/25/2011, you wrote:
      >><Tom@CostanzaAndAssociates.com>
      >>
      >>Bob,
      >>
      >>In a previous life, I was a seat-of-the-pants, self-taught 
      >>technician.  I was told that the length of the coax didn't affect 
      >>the SWR.  But intuition, and more importantly, your test clearly 
      >>shows that it does.
      >>  Extrapolating from this, it seems it would be possible to reduce 
      >> the SWR to near zero by varying the length of the coax.
      
           Permit me a further expansion on this idea. See:
      
      http://www.antennex.com/preview/New/quarter.htm
      
           Here we are tutored on a a really cool feature
           of high SWR in a transmission line. The article
           talks about two cases were two low SWR systems,
           like a 100 ohm antenna and a 50 ohm coax would
           like to be joined. It is the nature of a 1/4 wavelength
           of transmission line to do a 'mirror image' of
           not-perfect SWR terminations at each end.
      
           In the case cited, putting a piece of 75 ohm
           transmission line in series with a 100 ohm
           load 'mirrors' that 100 ohms into a 50 ohm
           value at the other end. Viola! Hooking your
           50 ohm coax to a 100 ohm load would give
           you 2:1 SWR. Putting a short section of
           hi SWR coax in the gap gives you a nice place
           to tie 50 ohm coax and have a good match to
           100 ohms at the other end.
      
           This condition optimizes at one and one
           frequency only. SWR in the matching stub
           is never 1:1 and SWR on the feed-point
           end is 50 ohms resistive only at one
           frequency.
      
           This is a small insight into what appears
           to be experimental success in "lowering the
           SWR by fiddling with feed line lengths."
           In fact, adjusting the feed line length
           only alters the combination of R+X for
           the combined feed line and antenna such that
           the transmitter works a bit better (stronger
           radiated signal). In no way does it go to
           "lowering SWR" . . . in fact, just as SWR in
           the 1/4-wave matching section is never 1:1,
           diddling with feed line length depends
           on SWR within the feed line being anything
           BUT 1:1.
      
           If it WERE 1:1, length would have no difference.
           Something other than 1:1 allows you to slide
           out along the line to find to optimize the
           combination of R+X for your particular
           situation.
      
           Bob . . .
      
      
Message 17
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      chaps and fellow aviators,
      
      good day. just joined and here is a brief intro. name is dino, I am uk based and
      fly my bird (jabiru sk 2200A 2 seat) out of a farm strip in essex. fly as much
      as weather permits. pilot since 1999 ...
      
      here is my question.
      
      I recently aquired a Narco NAV 11 in perfect working condition (just had it tested).
      i have checked out vor antenna prices and they are extorsionate. i was wondering
      if it is possible to DIY a vor ariel and if there are any web based resources/plan
      for making one.
      
      much appreciated and many thanx
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328454#328454
      
      
Message 18
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      Mike what was it R scale? Max value?
      PW
      =======
      At 08:57 AM 1/25/2011, Mike Welch wrote:
      > >I sure would be nice to have a
      > > handy VOM that gets some low R values.
      > > Any suggestions?
      > > PaulW
      >
      >Paul,
      >
      >   When this subject came up a couple of months ago, I had recommended
      >the Etek digital VOM, model #10709, sold at Walmart.  It has a good feel in
      >your hands, and several extra functions (built-in flashlight, temp 
      >probe, etc.)
      >that make it a GREAT model for the money.
      >
      >   I had one I used in doing the electrics for my house I was 
      > building.  Someone
      >ruined it by spilling coffee in it.  I did like it, so I made it a 
      >point of going
      >back to Walmart and getting another one!
      >
      >   For $21 you simply can't go wrong!
      >
      >Mike Welch
      >
      
      
Message 19
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  | 
      
      
      
      The reason we don=92t use them extensively in aviation is they are 
      sometimes
      really difficult to actually use in the places/locations you=92d want to 
      use
      them (up under panels, etc..).  The =93automatic tools=94 frankly can be 
      clunky
      to use in confined areas.  We own several, but usually choose to use a
      little $8 flush cutter / diagonal flush cutter (the more expensive ones 
      are
      slightly higher in quality).  Much easier, faster, cheaper=85and much 
      smaller.
      
      
      My vote is for the flush cutters=85and I feel your pain! Lots of 
      scratched
      hands/arms over the years of doing this!
      
      
      Cheers,
      
      Stein 
      
      
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Noel
      Loveys
      Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2011 11:55 AM
      Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: cable ties
      
      
      Although I have seen those tools I have never seen one used in 
      aviation...
      Too bad... they work.
      
      
      Noel
      
      
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Janet
      Amtmann
      Sent: January 24, 2011 5:20 PM
      Subject: AeroElectric-List: cable ties
      
      
      To those of you having trouble with cable tie injuries, try a relatively
      inexpensive ($31) tensioning tool from Waytek.  It has a cutter that 
      cuts so
      close to the tie head that you can't feel the edges.  Try tool #412, and 
      use
      Thomas & Betts "Ty-Rap" brand ties.  Never had a problem with injuries 
      with
      this combination.  The jewelers' diags that Bob mentioned work also on a
      lower budget.
      
      
      Do not archive
      
      
      J=FCrgen Amtmann
      
      
      http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
      
      http://forums.matronics.com
      
      http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      
      
Message 20
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: VOMs again. . . | 
      
      At 11:07 AM 1/25/2011, you wrote:
      >
      >Sure Lots of message for good meters. And the HF $4 unit is great 
      >for checking voltages and continuity.
      >What about a low cost meter that can be used for low resistance 
      >measurements? No need to go down to less than ~2 ohms. But a 20k 
      >lower scale dosen't do much for my needs and I have to drag out my 
      >ancient VTVM to see the resistance. I sure would be nice to have a 
      >handy VOM that gets some low R values.
      >Any suggestions?
      
          Only my brother-in-law would get such a deal as I
          have for you. See:
      
      http://tinyurl.com/4l3tuj6
      
          A few years back we were wrestling with some switch
          and relay issues on fielded airplanes that required
          accurate measurements below 1 ohm. As you've noted,
          most multimeters don't have the resolution to tell
          you much about low resistances. Further, the resistance
          of the test leads become a significant portion of
          the total resistance being measured.
      
          I crafted a series of devices cited in the article
          above. This paper was published to the HBC field
          service community.
      
          Setting up the adapter to generate a 0.1 amp
          constant current means that resistance across
          the 4-wire test connections has a voltage drop of
          of 100 mV/ohm. So a reading of 1 volt indicates
          a resistance value of 10 ohms. LM317 needs to
          have about 2 volts of head-room so the 3 cell
          instrument should not be depended on for
          measurements above 20 ohms. The 4-cell
          instrument can go up to 35 ohms.  Depending
          on resolution of your VOM, you can accurately
          resolve very small resistance values. For
          example, the HF $4 VOM on the 200 mV scale
          displays 199.9 millivolts. The instrument
          display offers you 1 milliom resolution at
          2.0 ohms full scale.
      
          Many small, low cost VOMs don't have 3/4"
          spaced banana jacks. You can buy banana
          plugs that mount on screws with a spacing
          of your choice
      
      Emacs!
      
      
      http://tinyurl.com/4d465gx
      
          Alternatively, you can build the larger
          adapter that stands alone and connects
          to your multimeter of choice with appropriate
          wiring.
      
      
      >Like to measure sensors on my truck that are supposed to be 3 ohm. 
      >and the truck is 1000 miles from the VTVM because I only carry the 
      >cheepy VOM and leave the VTVM home. - Sigh.
      >PaulW
      
          Build one of these critters up. You'll
          be glad you did. I made up several and
          gave them to guys in the shops.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
Message 21
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      At 12:54 PM 1/25/2011, you wrote:
      >Although I have seen those tools I have never seen one used in 
      >aviation...  Too bad... they work.
      
         Our guys on the line and in experimental flight used
         them all the time. They were too bulky for my very compact
         'engineers toolbox' so I never owned one . . . the
         flush-cutter had to suffice. But it wasn't uncommon
         for one of the techs to hand me his tool if he observed
         my 'neanderthal' techniques. At least I wasn't chewing them
         off with my teeth!
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
      
Message 22
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | "Emacs!" in Response | 
      
      
      Having read this thread from the beginning again I would do a continuity
      test for ground from the ground plane back to the grounded case of the
      radio.  While you are at it do a continuity test for the centre conductor of
      the RG400.  I've seen similar readings caused by a crack in the centre
      conductor of coax.
      
      As for the ground plane assuming your ground bond is good to your aluminium
      and the centre conductor is intact you may want to try bonding the aluminium
      to the aircraft ground system with a separate wire.  I've seen instances
      where that had to be done on fibreglass boats.
      
      Noel
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
      bakerocb@cox.net
      Sent: January 25, 2011 9:14 AM
      Subject: AeroElectric-List: "Emacs!" in Response
      
      
      1/25/2011
      
      Hello Bob Falstad, You wrote (see copied below): "However, your response had
      
      three"Emacs!" in it that appear to refer to graphics that I can't view."
      
      I have the same problem with Bob Nuckolls' postings, but here is a solution 
      for me:
      
      a) Go to the Matronics forum web site.
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/
      
      b) Click on the aeroelectric list.
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewforum.php?f=3
      
      c) Click on the original subject of the email(s) in question. (Comm Antenna 
      & SWR Reading -- Too High?)
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=78934
      
      d) Scroll down to the posted email in question and you should be able to see
      
      any attached graphics or photos.
      
      Please let me / us know how this works for you.
      
      'OC' Baker Says: "The best investment we can make is the time and effort to 
      gather and understand knowledge."
      
      PS to all: Bob, Bob, Who has got the Bob? Or which Bob?
      
      It is pretty important to me (and I am sure many others) to know which Bob 
      author that they are reading or which Bob is being addressed.
      
       Would all posters please identify in each case by last name which Bob they 
      are addressing and which Bob is writing by last name in each instance? Many 
      thanks.
      
      =====================================================================
      
      Time: 10:38:42 AM PST US
      From: Bob Falstad <bobair@me.com>
      Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: "Emacs!" in Response:  Was Comm Antenna & 
      SWR Reading
      
      
      Bob,
      
      Many thanks for your quick and detailed response.  However, your response 
      had three
      "Emacs!" in it that appear to refer to graphics that I can't view.  I 
      searched
      the AeroElectric lists archives and the most detailed message re "Emacs!"
      was yours dated July 31, 2009.  I couldn't find any other relevant messages
      on how to view your graphics/photos.
      
      I'm using a Macbook with OS 10.4.6 (Snow Leopard) that also has a full 
      install
      of Windows XP in it.  I opened your reply in three different browsers --  
      Safari,
      Firefox and Internet Explorer 8 but no joy.
      
      Any thoughts on how I can retrieve/view your "Emacs!" graphical inserts?
      
      Best regards,
      
      Bob Falstad 
      
      
Message 23
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      Hi Paul=2C
      
      20M=2C 2M=2C 200K=2C 20K=2C 2K & 200.    Marvin was right about them not be
      ing
      at Walmart=2C it appears.  I did a Walmart online search=2C and they didn't
       come up.
      I checked on eBay.  There are two different sellers.  One guy wants $40 + s
      h.
      The other guy wants $32 total.  Walmart sold them at $20-$21=2C but they we
      re
      quite a deal at that=2C IMO.  Here's the cheaper guy's auction=3B
      
      http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/E-Tek-10709-Professional-Digital-Multimeter-
      _W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem41563d5b42QQitemZ280619735874QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ
      5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
      
      > Date: Tue=2C 25 Jan 2011 11:08:51 -0800
      > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
      > From: pwmac@sisna.com
      > Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: VOMs again. . .
      > 
      > 
      > Mike what was it R scale? Max value?
      > PW
       		 	   		  
      
Message 24
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Comm Antenna & SWR Reading | 
      
      
      At 12:38 PM 1/25/2011, you wrote:
      >
      >To accurately measure VHF frequencies the meter has to have fast acting
      >diodes.  Usually meters designed for HF (under 30 mHz) are not fast enough
      >gating to accurately read swr for higher frequencies.  To be sure take your
      >meter to someone who has a bird or similar meter and see if the calibration
      >is close.
      >
      >A technician at a local phone company or amateur who works on repeaters may
      >be a good place to start.
      
      
         Certainly the characteristics of detector diodes become
         more critical as the frequency goes up. Criticality is
         also increased as the magnitude of exciting signal goes
         down. We touched on this when questioning whether or not
         the .5 watt excitation was going to yield good measurements
         on a 5 watt full scale instrument.
      
         The rule of thumb for even the Bird instruments is to
         select a signal source and element that produces forward
         readings in the upper half of scale travel (greater than
         2W on a 5W element).
      
         All of the DIY antenna analyzer projects routinely
         call out specialty detector diodes line the 1N5711
         (point contact Schottky). It's equally critical
         to build the bridge from the right kind of resistors
         and very tight geometry. There's a lot of reference
         data out there for folks interested in DIY antenna
         measurements.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
      
Message 25
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: "Emacs!" in Response | 
      
      On 01/25/2011 07:11 AM, John Morgensen wrote:
      > <john@morgensen.com>
      >
      > No problem here. I get the individual emails. Is the problem only on 
      > the digest?
      >
      Enclosures are not posted to the digest lists.  Here is an excerpt from 
      the Matronics FAQ at
      www.matronics.com/ftp/Archives/RV-List.FAQ.html
      
      **Limited posting of enclosures such as pictures, documents, and spreadsheets
      is supported on the Lists.  There are a number of restrictions, and these
      are detailed below.  Please abide by the rules put forth regarding the
      content of enclosures.
      
      These are some of the features and limits of enclosures on the Matronics
      lists:
      
      1) Enclosures will only be posted to the Real Time version of the Lists.
      
      2) Enclosures will NOT be included in the Daily Digest version of the Lists.
      
      **
      
      The full FAQ file is too big to quote here.
      
Message 26
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  | 
      
      
      
      At 02:07 PM 1/25/2011, you wrote:
      ><triangulumx@googlemail.com>
      >
      >chaps and fellow aviators,
      >
      >good day. just joined and here is a brief intro. name is dino, I am 
      >uk based and fly my bird (jabiru sk 2200A 2 seat) out of a farm 
      >strip in essex. fly as much as weather permits. pilot since 1999 ...
      >
      >here is my question.
      >
      >I recently aquired a Narco NAV 11 in perfect working condition (just 
      >had it tested). i have checked out vor antenna prices and they are 
      >extorsionate. i was wondering if it is possible to DIY a vor ariel 
      >and if there are any web based resources/plan for making one.
      
         Sure. Make your own 'cat whiskers' from suitable
         steel rod. CB antennas can be salvaged for their
         corrosion resistant parts. Fabricate a BALUN as
         described
      
      http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/BALUN/Balun_Fabrication.html
      
         Make an insulating configured to fit to your
         airplane . . . usually the top cap of a
         vertical fin. Fabricate fittings (silver
         soldered to your 26" 'whiskers') to mount
         the antenna elements to your fin cap with
         about 45 degree sweep-back.
      
      Emacs!
      
      
         Attach BALUN to interior ends and route coax to your
         VOR receiver.  The anti-rotation scheme shown above
         is perhaps not sufficiently robust. I think I'd silver
         solder the whiskers into a 5/16 or 3/8" threaded stud.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
Message 27
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | "Emacs!" in Response | 
      
      
      
      >As for the ground plane assuming your ground bond is good to your aluminium
      >and the centre conductor is intact you may want to try bonding the aluminium
      >to the aircraft ground system with a separate wire.
      
          Wires use to connect RF ground systems to any other ground
          system are never useful for controlling antenna system
          performance.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
      
Message 28
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Comm Antenna & SWR Reading | 
      
      
          Oops! Re-posted with the proper subject line to keep it
          attached to the proper thread.
      
      >As for the ground plane assuming your ground bond is good to your aluminium
      >and the centre conductor is intact you may want to try bonding the aluminium
      >to the aircraft ground system with a separate wire.
      
          Wires use to connect RF ground systems to any other ground
          system are never useful for controlling antenna system
          performance.
      
      
         Bob . . .  
      
      
Message 29
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  | 
      
      
      
      That's the biggest reason I liked that little T&B unit (WT1-TB) I 
      directed you to in an earlier message today...it is small, fits 
      in the palm of your hand and can be used anyplace that you can 
      get your closed hand and point your finger at.
      
      It worked great in all the tight places in the systems I designed 
      at Pennwalt. And it cuts the tie off flush with the buckle.
      
      Harley
      -----------------------------------------------------------------
      
      > III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
      >
      > At 12:54 PM 1/25/2011, you wrote:
      >> Although I have seen those tools I have never seen one used in 
      >> aviation...  Too bad... they work.
      >
      >   Our guys on the line and in experimental flight used
      >   them all the time. They were too bulky for my very compact
      >   'engineers toolbox' so I never owned one . . . the
      >   flush-cutter had to suffice. But it wasn't uncommon
      >   for one of the techs to hand me his tool if he observed
      >   my 'neanderthal' techniques. At least I wasn't chewing them
      >   off with my teeth!
      >
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
Message 30
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      I don't like seeing... make that feeling the tie wraps but on occasion I do
      use them...  whenever I do I use the small side cuts but I always make one
      or two passes over the cut end with a piece of reasonably fine grit
      sandpaper.  So far I have yet to cut myself on a tie wrap that I have
      personally installed.
      
      Speaking of which I now have to do the wiring on my 912 installation. After
      that controls...  Gee its cold outside.  Supposed to go up to the green side
      of 0C Thursday.
      
      Noel
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
      Nuckolls, III
      Sent: January 25, 2011 2:52 PM
      Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: cable ties
      
      <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
      
      At 12:54 PM 1/25/2011, you wrote:
      >Although I have seen those tools I have never seen one used in 
      >aviation...  Too bad... they work.
      
         Our guys on the line and in experimental flight used
         them all the time. They were too bulky for my very compact
         'engineers toolbox' so I never owned one . . . the
         flush-cutter had to suffice. But it wasn't uncommon
         for one of the techs to hand me his tool if he observed
         my 'neanderthal' techniques. At least I wasn't chewing them
         off with my teeth!
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
      
Message 31
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Comm Antenna & SWR Reading | 
      
      
      Thanks for filling in the gaps Bob.  What I was getting at was trying to
      remove any errors that may have been caused by the meters.
      
      Noel
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
      Nuckolls, III
      Sent: January 25, 2011 3:09 PM
      Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Comm Antenna & SWR Reading
      
      <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
      
      At 12:38 PM 1/25/2011, you wrote:
      <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
      >
      >To accurately measure VHF frequencies the meter has to have fast acting
      >diodes.  Usually meters designed for HF (under 30 mHz) are not fast enough
      >gating to accurately read swr for higher frequencies.  To be sure take your
      >meter to someone who has a bird or similar meter and see if the calibration
      >is close.
      >
      >A technician at a local phone company or amateur who works on repeaters may
      >be a good place to start.
      
      
         Certainly the characteristics of detector diodes become
         more critical as the frequency goes up. Criticality is
         also increased as the magnitude of exciting signal goes
         down. We touched on this when questioning whether or not
         the .5 watt excitation was going to yield good measurements
         on a 5 watt full scale instrument.
      
         The rule of thumb for even the Bird instruments is to
         select a signal source and element that produces forward
         readings in the upper half of scale travel (greater than
         2W on a 5W element).
      
         All of the DIY antenna analyzer projects routinely
         call out specialty detector diodes line the 1N5711
         (point contact Schottky). It's equally critical
         to build the bridge from the right kind of resistors
         and very tight geometry. There's a lot of reference
         data out there for folks interested in DIY antenna
         measurements.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
      
Message 32
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | "Emacs!" in Response | 
      
      
      The bond I was referring to would be to the same system.  Doing that could
      nullify the effects of a bad connection to the braid at the antenna end.
      
      Noel
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
      Nuckolls, III
      Sent: January 25, 2011 3:23 PM
      Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: "Emacs!" in Response
      
      <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
      
      
      >As for the ground plane assuming your ground bond is good to your aluminium
      >and the centre conductor is intact you may want to try bonding the
      aluminium
      >to the aircraft ground system with a separate wire.
      
          Wires use to connect RF ground systems to any other ground
          system are never useful for controlling antenna system
          performance.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
      
Message 33
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  | 
      
      
      
      I was once asked if it made any difference to the VOR whether the cats
      whiskers were sloping forward or rearward.  What's your take?  Mine was
      simply to follow the directions.. but in homebuilt planes you may have to
      write your own directions.
      
      
      Noel
      
      
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
      Nuckolls, III
      Sent: January 25, 2011 3:20 PM
      Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: vor antenna
      
      
      At 02:07 PM 1/25/2011, you wrote:
      
      
      <triangulumx@googlemail.com>
      
      chaps and fellow aviators,
      
      good day. just joined and here is a brief intro. name is dino, I am uk based
      and fly my bird (jabiru sk 2200A 2 seat) out of a farm strip in essex. fly
      as much as weather permits. pilot since 1999 ...
      
      here is my question.
      
      I recently aquired a Narco NAV 11 in perfect working condition (just had it
      tested). i have checked out vor antenna prices and they are extorsionate. i
      was wondering if it is possible to DIY a vor ariel and if there are any web
      based resources/plan for making one.
      
      
        Sure. Make your own 'cat whiskers' from suitable
        steel rod. CB antennas can be salvaged for their
        corrosion resistant parts. Fabricate a BALUN as
        described 
      
      http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/BALUN/Balun_Fabrication.html
      
        Make an insulating configured to fit to your
        airplane . . . usually the top cap of a
        vertical fin. Fabricate fittings (silver
        soldered to your 26" 'whiskers') to mount
        the antenna elements to your fin cap with
        about 45 degree sweep-back. 
      
      Emacs!
      
        Attach BALUN to interior ends and route coax to your
        VOR receiver.  The anti-rotation scheme shown above
        is perhaps not sufficiently robust. I think I'd silver
        solder the whiskers into a 5/16 or 3/8" threaded stud.
      
      
        Bob . . .
      
      
Message 34
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Comm Antenna & SWR Reading | 
      
      
      As for the ground plane assuming your ground bond is good to your aluminium
      and the centre conductor is intact you may want to try bonding the aluminium
      to the aircraft ground system with a separate wire.
      
          Wires use to connect RF ground systems to any other ground
          system are never useful for controlling antenna system
          performance.
      
      ------------
      
      The bond I was referring to would be to the same system.  Doing that could
      nullify the effects of a bad connection to the braid at the antenna end.
      
          You lost me. This is a composite aircraft with an
          aluminum sheet on the inside surface for a ground
          plane and approx 7/16" worth of composite structure
          between the ground plane and the base of the antenna.
      
          I presume there's a centrally located clearance hole
          in the composite material for the coax connector.
          He described 4 threaded fasteners holding this 'sandwich'
          together.
      
          To be sure, a low resistance (micro-ohms), high integrity
          (gas tight) connections between the base and the ground plane
          are called for. Having "soft" material in the makeup
          of this sandwich is counter productive to achieving that
          goal. Hence the suggestion for metallic spacers through
          the structure to take the mate-up tension loads in the
          screws and provide low-inductance jumpers (4 in parallel)
          between the antenna base and the ground plane.
      
          "Ground system" is generally interpreted to mean the DC
          power ground. On this aircraft, it may well be a firewall
          single point ground with lots of wires returning to it.
          In this instance, no potential benefits to be gained
          by adding conductors between power ground and anything
          associated with this antenna installation.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
      
Message 35
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      At 03:52 PM 1/25/2011, you wrote:
      >I was once asked if it made any difference to the VOR whether the 
      >cats whiskers were sloping forward or rearward.  What's your 
      >take?  Mine was simply to follow the directions.. but in homebuilt 
      >planes you may have to write your own directions.
      >
      >Noel
      
          Good question. I've seen them both ways. Putting any
          kind of rake angle on them will have effects on radiation
          pattern, feed point impedance and aerodynamics. I suppose
          somebody had a reason for selecting one over the other
          but I doubt that it had to do with optimization in more
          than one of the three areas of investigation. From the
          performance perspective, it's almost sure to make no
          perceivable difference.
      
          Sometimes things are done just because that's the way
          we've been doing it for a long time . . . and nobody
          remembers why. Most folks would probably think they look
          sexier with a rearward rake . . . and indeed, that may
          have been the reason.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
      
Message 36
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      Gents,
      
      My 2... Personally, I like Cobra Cable Ties ( http://cobracabletie.com/ ).  They are low profile and the trimmed end is protected when trimmed properly.  Ya, they cost a bit more than the cheepo stuff, but I think they are worth it.
      
      Bob Borger
      Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Tri-Gear, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S Prop
      
      
      On Jan 25, 2011, at 14:38, Noel Loveys wrote:
      
      > 
      > I don't like seeing... make that feeling the tie wraps but on occasion I do
      > use them...  whenever I do I use the small side cuts but I always make one
      > or two passes over the cut end with a piece of reasonably fine grit
      > sandpaper.  So far I have yet to cut myself on a tie wrap that I have
      > personally installed.
      > 
      > Speaking of which I now have to do the wiring on my 912 installation. After
      > that controls...  Gee its cold outside.  Supposed to go up to the green side
      > of 0C Thursday.
      > 
      > Noel
      
      
Message 37
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  | 
      
      
      
      On an airplane with conventional landing gear, you might want to consider
      walkaround safety in your forward/aft decision.  I had a friend with an old
      Piper and he just about poked his eye out one time on a set that was bent
      forward.
      
      On Tue, Jan 25, 2011 at 3:07 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      > nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
      >
      > At 03:52 PM 1/25/2011, you wrote:
      >
      >> I was once asked if it made any difference to the VOR whether the cats
      >> whiskers were sloping forward or rearward.  What's your take?  Mine was
      >> simply to follow the directions.. but in homebuilt planes you may have to
      >> write your own directions.
      >>
      >> Noel
      >>
      >
      >   Good question. I've seen them both ways. Putting any
      >   kind of rake angle on them will have effects on radiation
      >   pattern, feed point impedance and aerodynamics. I suppose
      >   somebody had a reason for selecting one over the other
      >   but I doubt that it had to do with optimization in more
      >   than one of the three areas of investigation. From the
      >   performance perspective, it's almost sure to make no
      >   perceivable difference.
      >
      >   Sometimes things are done just because that's the way
      >   we've been doing it for a long time . . . and nobody
      >   remembers why. Most folks would probably think they look
      >   sexier with a rearward rake . . . and indeed, that may
      >   have been the reason.
      >
      >
      >  Bob . . .
      >
      >
      
Message 38
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: VOMs again. . . | 
      
      At 11:07 AM 1/25/2011, you wrote:
      >
      >Sure Lots of message for good meters. And the HF $4 unit is great 
      >for checking voltages and continuity.
      >What about a low cost meter that can be used for low resistance 
      >measurements? No need to go down to less than ~2 ohms. But a 20k 
      >lower scale dosen't do much for my needs and I have to drag out my 
      >ancient VTVM to see the resistance. I sure would be nice to have a 
      >handy VOM that gets some low R values.
      >Any suggestions?
      
          Only my brother-in-law would get such a deal as I
          have for you. See:
      
      http://tinyurl.com/4l3tuj6
      
          A few years back we were wrestling with some switch
          and relay issues on fielded airplanes that required
          accurate measurements below 1 ohm. As you've noted,
          most multimeters don't have the resolution to tell
          you much about low resistances. Further, the resistance
          of the test leads become a significant portion of
          the total resistance being measured.
      
          I crafted a series of devices cited in the article
          above. This paper was published to the HBC field
          service community.
      
          Setting up the adapter to generate a 0.1 amp
          constant current means that resistance across
          the 4-wire test connections has a voltage drop of
          of 100 mV/ohm. So a reading of 1 volt indicates
          a resistance value of 10 ohms. LM317 needs to
          have about 2 volts of head-room so the 3 cell
          instrument should not be depended on for
          measurements above 20 ohms. The 4-cell
          instrument can go up to 35 ohms.  Depending
          on resolution of your VOM, you can accurately
          resolve very small resistance values. For
          example, the HF $4 VOM on the 200 mV scale
          displays 199.9 millivolts. The instrument
          display offers you 1 milliom resolution at
          2.0 ohms full scale.
      
          Many small, low cost VOMs don't have 3/4"
          spaced banana jacks. You can buy banana
          plugs that mount on screws with a spacing
          of your choice
      
      Emacs!
      
      
      http://tinyurl.com/4d465gx
      
          Alternatively, you can build the larger
          adapter that stands alone and connects
          to your multimeter of choice with appropriate
          wiring.
      
      
      >Like to measure sensors on my truck that are supposed to be 3 ohm. 
      >and the truck is 1000 miles from the VTVM because I only carry the 
      >cheepy VOM and leave the VTVM home. - Sigh.
      >PaulW
      
          Build one of these critters up. You'll
          be glad you did. I made up several and
          gave them to guys in the shops.
      
      
         Bob . . .  
      
Message 39
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: VOMs again. . . | 
      
      Bob, I remember this article well, which is why I asked if something 
      is out there to buy. I seriously doubt a succesful build of your 
      device considering my abilities.
      Maybe you would consider a new product to sell us or even a kit?
        Thanks, PaulW
      ========
      At 10:14 AM 1/25/2011, you wrote:
      >At 11:07 AM 1/25/2011, you wrote:
      >>
      >>Sure Lots of message for good meters. And the HF $4 unit is great 
      >>for checking voltages and continuity.
      >>What about a low cost meter that can be used for low resistance 
      >>measurements? No need to go down to less than ~2 ohms. But a 20k 
      >>lower scale dosen't do much for my needs and I have to drag out my 
      >>ancient VTVM to see the resistance. I sure would be nice to have a 
      >>handy VOM that gets some low R values.
      >>Any suggestions?
      >
      >    Only my brother-in-law would get such a deal as I
      >    have for you. See:
      >
      >http://tinyurl.com/4l3tuj6
      >
      >    A few years back we were wrestling with some switch
      >    and relay issues on fielded airplanes that required
      >    accurate measurements below 1 ohm. As you've noted,
      >    most multimeters don't have the resolution to tell
      >    you much about low resistances. Further, the resistance
      >    of the test leads become a significant portion of
      >    the total resistance being measured.
      >
      >    I crafted a series of devices cited in the article
      >    above. This paper was published to the HBC field
      >    service community.
      >
      >    Setting up the adapter to generate a 0.1 amp
      >    constant current means that resistance across
      >    the 4-wire test connections has a voltage drop of
      >    of 100 mV/ohm. So a reading of 1 volt indicates
      >    a resistance value of 10 ohms. LM317 needs to
      >    have about 2 volts of head-room so the 3 cell
      >    instrument should not be depended on for
      >    measurements above 20 ohms. The 4-cell
      >    instrument can go up to 35 ohms.  Depending
      >    on resolution of your VOM, you can accurately
      >    resolve very small resistance values. For
      >    example, the HF $4 VOM on the 200 mV scale
      >    displays 199.9 millivolts. The instrument
      >    display offers you 1 milliom resolution at
      >    2.0 ohms full scale.
      >
      >    Many small, low cost VOMs don't have 3/4"
      >    spaced banana jacks. You can buy banana
      >    plugs that mount on screws with a spacing
      >    of your choice
      >
      >Emacs!
      >
      >
      >http://tinyurl.com/4d465gx
      >
      >    Alternatively, you can build the larger
      >    adapter that stands alone and connects
      >    to your multimeter of choice with appropriate
      >    wiring.
      >
      >
      >>Like to measure sensors on my truck that are supposed to be 3 ohm. 
      >>and the truck is 1000 miles from the VTVM because I only carry the 
      >>cheepy VOM and leave the VTVM home. - Sigh.
      >>PaulW
      >
      >    Build one of these critters up. You'll
      >    be glad you did. I made up several and
      >    gave them to guys in the shops.
      >
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      
Message 40
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Low resistance measurement adapter. | 
      
      
      At 05:37 PM 1/25/2011, you wrote:
      >Bob, I remember this article well, which is why I asked if something 
      >is out there to buy. I seriously doubt a succesful build of your 
      >device considering my abilities.
      
          Nobody in your local acquaintance that could
          help you?
      
      >Maybe you would consider a new product to sell us or even a kit?
      
          Hmmm . . . possibly a product. "Kits" tend to be more expensive
          to gin-up and sell than completed products. I think something
          like this would sell for $35 to $40. It would be interesting
          to know if other folks on the List have an interest in having this
          class of measurement capability.
      
          Maybe I could do a one-of-a-kind. It would take about
          30 minutes to built one.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
      
Message 41
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Low resistance measurement adapter. | 
      
      
      Bob,
      
      I'd be interested.
      
      Bob Borger
      3705 Lynchburg Dr.
      Corinth, TX  76208
      Home:  940-497-2123
      Cel:  817-992-1117
      
      
      On Jan 25, 2011, at 18:18, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
      
      > 
      > At 05:37 PM 1/25/2011, you wrote:
      >> Bob, I remember this article well, which is why I asked if something is out
      there to buy. I seriously doubt a succesful build of your device considering my
      abilities.
      > 
      >   Nobody in your local acquaintance that could
      >   help you?
      > 
      >> Maybe you would consider a new product to sell us or even a kit?
      > 
      >   Hmmm . . . possibly a product. "Kits" tend to be more expensive
      >   to gin-up and sell than completed products. I think something
      >   like this would sell for $35 to $40. It would be interesting
      >   to know if other folks on the List have an interest in having this
      >   class of measurement capability.
      > 
      >   Maybe I could do a one-of-a-kind. It would take about
      >   30 minutes to built one.
      > 
      > 
      >  Bob . . . 
      
      
Message 42
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Comm Antenna & SWR Reading | 
      
      
      Bob:
      
      I think we are talking about slightly different things here.  
      
      I suspect there is no direct connection between the braid of the coax
      (ground) and the ground plane.  Most of these antennas are designed to be
      mounted on aluminium skins.  I am thinking that the ground plane is totally
      afloat and not connected in any way to the braid.  Of course this is easy to
      check by simply ringing between the ground plane and the exterior of the
      BNC. 
      
      Noel
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
      Nuckolls, III
      Sent: January 25, 2011 4:31 PM
      Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Comm Antenna & SWR Reading
      
      <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
      
      As for the ground plane assuming your ground bond is good to your aluminium
      and the centre conductor is intact you may want to try bonding the aluminium
      to the aircraft ground system with a separate wire.
      
          Wires use to connect RF ground systems to any other ground
          system are never useful for controlling antenna system
          performance.
      
      ------------
      
      The bond I was referring to would be to the same system.  Doing that could
      nullify the effects of a bad connection to the braid at the antenna end.
      
          You lost me. This is a composite aircraft with an
          aluminum sheet on the inside surface for a ground
          plane and approx 7/16" worth of composite structure
          between the ground plane and the base of the antenna.
      
          I presume there's a centrally located clearance hole
          in the composite material for the coax connector.
          He described 4 threaded fasteners holding this 'sandwich'
          together.
      
          To be sure, a low resistance (micro-ohms), high integrity
          (gas tight) connections between the base and the ground plane
          are called for. Having "soft" material in the makeup
          of this sandwich is counter productive to achieving that
          goal. Hence the suggestion for metallic spacers through
          the structure to take the mate-up tension loads in the
          screws and provide low-inductance jumpers (4 in parallel)
          between the antenna base and the ground plane.
      
          "Ground system" is generally interpreted to mean the DC
          power ground. On this aircraft, it may well be a firewall
          single point ground with lots of wires returning to it.
          In this instance, no potential benefits to be gained
          by adding conductors between power ground and anything
          associated with this antenna installation.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
      
Message 43
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  | 
      
      
      
      Several early Pipers and Cessnas had the VOR antennas pointed forward.  That
      is the way the Maintenance Manual required they be installed.  I suppose to
      legally turn them around would require an STC.
      
      
      Noel
      
      
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jared
      Yates
      Sent: January 25, 2011 6:16 PM
      Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: vor antenna
      
      
      On an airplane with conventional landing gear, you might want to consider
      walkaround safety in your forward/aft decision.  I had a friend with an old
      Piper and he just about poked his eye out one time on a set that was bent
      forward.
      
      On Tue, Jan 25, 2011 at 3:07 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
      <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
      
      At 03:52 PM 1/25/2011, you wrote:
      
      I was once asked if it made any difference to the VOR whether the cats
      whiskers were sloping forward or rearward.  What's your take?  Mine was
      simply to follow the directions.. but in homebuilt planes you may have to
      write your own directions.
      
      Noel
      
      
        Good question. I've seen them both ways. Putting any
        kind of rake angle on them will have effects on radiation
        pattern, feed point impedance and aerodynamics. I suppose
        somebody had a reason for selecting one over the other
        but I doubt that it had to do with optimization in more
        than one of the three areas of investigation. From the
        performance perspective, it's almost sure to make no
        perceivable difference.
      
        Sometimes things are done just because that's the way
        we've been doing it for a long time . . . and nobody
        remembers why. Most folks would probably think they look
        sexier with a rearward rake . . . and indeed, that may
        have been the reason.
      
      
       Bob . . . 
      ,
      www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List"
      target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
      ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
      Matt Dralle, List Admin.
      ====
      
      
 
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